Golf/GTI VI :: 2010 - Clutch Not Engaging Correctly
So i just took my 2010 Golf 2.5 into the dealer because it was not going into gear. Its a 5 speed with 12, 900 miles. They tell me they have to pull the trans and open it up before they can even tell whether or not the problem is covered under warranty!
View 16 RepliesFord - Explorer :: 1998 - Violent Shaking When Engaging Clutch
I have a 98 Ford Explorer Sport V6 with a 5-speed and 4wd (mechanically Identical to the Ranger) and I've been having a problem ever since the new clutch was put in.
The previous clutch cracked in some way and took the pressure plates with it, so it has an all new clutch and plates, installed by a friend who has a shop. Ever since getting the new hardware, I get a violent vibration when letting out the clutch in First or Reverse from a stop. Friend says it's probably the flywheel, and that fixing it is more trouble than it's worth-- just live with it. If I rev the throttle a bit while letting off the clutch, it engages much more smoothly, but if I do this at idle it shakes violently.
The one weird thing is that it doesn't do this when the engine is cold. For the first ten minutes of driving, the clutch engages smoothly like any other car, but as the engine comes up to temp the shaking returns. This doesn't sound like the flywheel to me.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Clutch Always Engaging Even When AC Is Not On
Odd question, but the a/c clutch has always engaged randomly even though the a/c is not on and even now when the heat is on. Is this normal?
View 7 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: A/C Not Blowing Cold Air / Clutch Not Engaging
Here is my problem: A/C not blowing cold air, blower motor working fine, checked all relevant fuses for A/C and R202 relay under the hood. Everything is fine here. Next, low pressure switch, jumped, clutch does not engage. Next removed relay R202 (clutch relay) measured voltages (at female sockets) where pins 1 and 3 would go, voltage OK. Jumped where pins 3 and 5 would go (bypass to see if clutch engages) and it does. Appears that the pressure switches check out OK (low pressure and A/C cycling switch - although this one not sure). CarMD unit was used as well, and no codes generated so perhaps PCM is working OK? I'm stumped, as a loss of GND by PCM or perhaps a corroded or open wire issue??
Also, possible the A/C switch on the HVAC control could be bad, but the light comes on, (doesn't mean switch is good necessarily). The rest of that unit works fine, control ***** that is, fan speed adjusts properly, air flow looks good. It appears this is an electrical problem where the clutch is not getting juice but I don't know the source of the problem. However, I also noticed that when the clutch/compressor was running (temporarily as described above) cold air still didn't come out. This, I assume, would mean I would need to add refrigerant or re-charge the A/C AFTER I get the clutch to engage electrically. 2004 F-150 5.4L ....
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: AC Compressor Clutch Engaging While Heater Is On
soo a friends 03 f-150 w/ the 4.6 has noticed the a/c compressor clutch engaging while heater is on. clutch engages for about 3 seconds or so and kicks back out consistently but only w/ the heater on. a/c dose function property when using a/c functions... Is this normal or does something need serviced???
View 3 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 4.0 - Rev Limiter At 3000 RPM / AC Clutch Not Engaging?
So that's what if feels like, in park at idle it sounds great, starts great no codes. IF you floor it it will not go over 3000 rpms in park, it feels like it has hit a rev limiter. I have 60psi fuel pressure at idle and at 3000 rpm.
When driving down the road I won't go over 55 mph and drives normal if you keep it under 3000 rpm, if you give it more gas it falls on its face?
AC is not working (clutch not engaging)I don't know if that's related or not.
We did just swap the motor the truck is a 2003 2wd drive. motor came out of an 2002 4wd. we are running the 2wd harness, computer egr delete etc.
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: AC Not Blowing / Small Thump Of Clutch Engaging On Compressor
Got in my truck this morning and everything worked fine, no problems. Arrived at my destination and parked. Come out about two hours later start the truck and my A/C wont blow air, My truck is an 05 lariat so it has the climate control A/C. Everything was working fine it just wont blow air, When i turned the A/C on and off i could hear/feel the small thump of the clutch engaging on the compressor. I am thinking the blower fan just went south? or maybe something stupid that controls the blower fan? Summer is in full swing here in central florida, temps are 95+ not including the humidity...
View 14 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: A/C Clutch Not Engaging
My mother In law's a/c is not working. Last year I replaced the compressor, fcm, and pressure sensor and nothing. Well fast forward a year and I'm here again trying to sort it out. I unplugged the connector to the compressor and there is 2 black wires 1 wire has 6 volts (not 12v) and the others reads nothing. When I turn the A/C on the fans do come on.
View 6 RepliesTrailBlazer :: 2004 - AC Clutch Not Engaging
SYMPTOM : 04 Trailblazer had intermittent A/C clutch engagement with the A/C system fully charged (showed about 80lbs on low side with engine off)...
SOLUTION : Three wire plug that plugs into the A/C pump has a bad connection on middle pin. I chased the middle wire with a pick and pushed firmly, the A/C pump kicked in, and out when I released pressure.
Testing the Harnass side: with relay #44 crossed (pins 30 & 87), with vehicle on or off, and the plug attached, you should have 12V+ at dark green (middle wire), you should have a ground on the black or brown wire, and you should have approx. 5v+ on the Lt Green or yellow wire.
Testing the clutch side: (harnass unplugged)
Black to red 3.7 ohms.
Black to other red 3.7 ohms.
red to red .01 ohms (fully closed circuit)
- If red to red open circuit, you have a bad switch on the compressor body---replace compressor.
- If red to black open circuit, you have a failed electromagnet in your clutch, relace clutch.
- If compressor side tests good, and you are missing 5v+ on harnass side, you have a bad connection.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: AC Clutch Not Engaging
Driving home yesterday and the ac wouldnt come on my 2003 golf. Worked fine day before. All fuses are fine. Small fan works but large one needs to be replaced but its been that way. Ac button works fine too. What else would cause the clutch to not engage? I believe the pressure is fine as it worked fine the day before.
View 3 RepliesSonata NF (2006-10) :: A/C Clutch Not Engaging
I'm having trouble with my a/c clutch not engaging now for about 4 days. I believe I have narrowed it down to the field coil. I checked and I am getting 14 volts at the wire that plugs into the compressor. Auto a/c function will not turn on the a/c compressor light on the dash, but will turn on when manually pushed. When this first started, the radiator fan would kick on but spin slowly and now does not turn on at all when engaging a/c.
Per an older thread I checked the resistance at the a/c relay, though it did not tell me which pin(s). The only readings in ohms I could find from the a/c relay junction in the engine fuse box said 69-76 ohms, but I am unsure whether I am reading the correct wires or the correct way. Facing the front of the car, I am getting the above ohm reading from the bottom right pin to ground. Which pin is the correct one to test?
I am currently thinking the a/c clutch field coil is bad, but it stumps me that the radiator fan will not kick on either now.
Background of car : PO wrecked car, damaging the front end. I bought the car and fixed it up. A/C Pulley was replaced due to bent flange where serpentine belt travels. Also brand new radiator fan and replaced other seemingly non-related items to this issue.
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: AC Clutch Not Engaging - Low Gas?
I have recently purchased a 2003 Santa Fe 2.7 Auto and the air conditioning was not working. I noticed the compressor was not spinning so plugged a can of R134a into the low pressure port and noticed it had virtually no pressure. As per the instructions I filled the system until the compressor kicked in then filled it to near the optimum pressure (according to the temperature chart) of 45psi (it was probably nearer 40 as the can was running out).
The A/C was then blowing cold. However a few hours later when I tried it again, the compressor wouldn't engage. I haven't checked the pressure again yet as it was getting late but before I start looking into things I wanted to ask here if there are any particular common issues? I know on a Ford I had a few years ago I had to buy a smaller set of shims for the A/C clutch plate, is this the same with the Santa Fe?
I've read a bit about some connectors or switches but couldn't find much info. What would cause the compressor clutch to not engage when the A/C works well when it is engaged? As I say the pressure was about 40psi but I will check it again tomorrow, could it be it is a bit too low?
Golf V R32 :: Clutch Is Not Fully Engaging
I'm just over 45k miles, have a new mechatronics unit as of 39k, and I am beginning to see a new symptom for the first time since the replacement.... wondering if any of you have experienced this.
It's happened 2 or 3 times in the last couple weeks. The symptom suggests the clutch is not fully engaging. It is as if I had the clutch pedal in while in first gear, and I am feathering the clutch. This happens in "M" mode -- but I basically only drive in M so cannot say if it may happen in D or S.
Today, for example, I was at a red light on an incline. Light turns green, right foot off the brake and onto the throttle. Engine free spins up to nearly 4k and the car hold its position on the incline, without any movement or even a hint of movement. But there apparently was enough force going to the wheels to keep the car on the incline.
The engine does not rev as if it is in LC mode. It is free revving without any sound of it being under load.The clutches seem ok, this is not a clutch slippage problem. It's something occurring in the DSG's control.
I called my service advisor and he looked me up and said I have the latest and greatest MU, and my VIN does not qualify for the recent MU recall that is in the works. He said to just keep an eye on it for now (of course)
Golf/GTI VI :: Clicking When Engaging Clutch
Exactly what the title says.....when its cold out/cold start....engaging the clutch pedal it makes a click sounds up top of engagement?
View 6 RepliesPassat (B5) :: 1996 - Clutch Won't Engaging?
My clutch is not disengaging when i push in the clutch pedal. I have good clutch pressure, I have to basically rpm shift my way through the gears. Is a dead slave cylinder the most likely culprit for this? if so is there any special information i need to know when it comes to bleeding out the new one?
View 1 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Air Conditioning Clutch Not Engaging
Here's the story: was on my way downtown last night to get a new suit (I'm in Savannah, GA so it's hot) and AC was working great. The Jetta (2003 AWP) is a stock-everything-1.8T that has never had any AC work done to it from the day I bought it new. I figured it was doing just fine so just leave it alone. Anyway, leave the suit shop (bought a gray three-piece) and go back to the parking lot, start up and get ready to leave, no cold air from the vents. I get it home and do some reading on here and also in the Bentley manual and get into some preliminary troubleshooting. Here's what I have so far:
- Engine running/AC button ON/Blower on "3"/Recirculation OFF/Engine at operating temperature
- Turn blower ON - visually verified that clutch is not engaged and compressor is not spinning
- Shut car off, compressor does turn by hand easily
- With AC button on and blower on, passenger side cooling fan (behind radiator) is ON but driver side cooling fan IS NOT on - I think this indicates a problem from what I've read
- Checked cabin fuses 5, 16, & 25. All have low resistance (good continuity) and are not discolored. Just to make sure I scuffed the contacts with a scotchbrite pad and reinstalled them
- Same deal for the top-of-the-battery power distribution block. All fuses checked okay and were scuffed and reinstalled
- Moved on to the pressure switch/pressure sensor. My vehicle has the 3-pin sensor so jumping contacts is not a possibility. I need to rent/buy a duty cycle meter to check it. Any good tutorial on how to do this? Do I disconnect the connector and check it right at the switch or must I break out the wires and check it in parallel with the connector attached to the sensor?
- I grabbed a flat-head screwdriver and gave the high-pressure and low-pressure service valves a poke and got a good blast of pressure from them so I don't think the system is empty.
- Did a little more reading and found I needed to check voltage at the 3-pin connector on top of the battery power distribution block. I did this with the key ON - no power at any of the pins. Repeated with key ON and engine running with AC button ON and blower ON - still no voltage. For these measurements, the connector was DISCONNECTED. Does this matter? Do I need to have it plugged in to get voltage there (i.e., read the voltage from the rear of the connector with it installed?)
- Finally, and perhaps most enlightening, I suspected I may simply be low on R134a so I bought a can with a pressure gauge on it. Connected it to low-pressure side with engine running, AC button ON, blower on "4", recirculation OFF. The gauge read ~150 PSIG. Yes, this seems high to me too; however, the compressor is still not turning at this point. Does it need to turn to get a good pressure reading from the LP service valve? I recall from everything I read that if pressure is too low, the clutch won't engage, and if pressure is too high, the clutch won't engage
So, as far as I can tell I have a few problems...
1. The driver side fan doesn't run when AC button is ON
2. No voltage at the 3-pin connector on the battery power distribution block Incorrect methods...there is voltage there.
3. Low-pressure side of the AC system is too high Called and checked with a local mechanic...I won't receive correct pressures if the compressor is not turning.
My next steps are to check the voltage at the compressor connector for 12VDC. I suspect I'll get 0V because it's clearly not turning. I'll do this once I can figure out how to get the dang connectors apart without breaking them. 11-year-old heat fatigued plastic is brittle...
Finally got the compressor connector apart.. there is 12VDC on pin 1 and 0VDC on pin 2 (it's a ground, so there shouldn't be..ground continuity check good). Ohmed out the clutch...from what I can tell, that circuit is open. However, I am not 100% sure I was on the contacts because of how the connector is positioned. I'm going to get a dummy connector from a salvage yard and connect it up and make sure I have good contact before I call it a bad clutch.
Golf IV R32 :: Wheels Not Engaging Off - Clutch Burnt
I got my R32 back 2 days ago after deploying to Iraq for a year. Upon driving it for the first time I took it a little easy on the car. I made sure the clutch was fully out before I did anything silly and what not.
Today I took it to the track and on the first launch I dropped it from like 3500 rpm and the RPMs shot up to 7500 and the car was moving at like 5 mph. I hit second gear and the rpm almost instantly shot up to 7500 rpm's again with the car moving at like 10 or 15 miles an hour.
After that, i let off completely. I tried one more time out in the warm up area to see what the hell was going on. Did the same thing. I could smell what I'm guessing was clutch burning pretty freaking bad. I'm, not 100% sure it was the clutch because I've never smelt a clutch smell that strong before.
Hyundai - Elantra :: 2005 - New Clutch Not Engaging
The car is a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with a 5-speed manual transmission. My father and I were replacing a worn out clutch disk on my sisters car. We replaced the clutch disk, pressure plate, and throw out bearing with no problems; however, when we put the transaxles back into the transmission we noticed that they could spin freely despite the transmission being in first gear. The clutch is not engaged even when the clutch pedal isnt being pushed in. We stopped putting the car back together until we could figure out what was wrong with it.
View 12 RepliesGolf IV R32 :: Clutch Gargling When Slowly Engaging?
Lately I've noticed that when slowly engaging first or reverse, the clutch has noticeable but not loud chatter, kind of like its gargling a little. I JUST changed the trans fluid from OEM to Amsoil 75W-90 API GL4 and its about the same time the noise came, but I'm not going to assume right now that this is the source of the noise. Clutch acts just the same, apart from this gargle.
Might be worth mentioning that this all seems to have started about the same time the temps around here started to dip below 30 on a regular basis