Golf IV R32 :: Grinding At A Full Stop With Clutch Fully Engaged
Within the past 2 weeks I've been noticing that when I shift hard into 2nd and 3rd, I manage to grind the gears slightly. At first I thought that maybe I wasn't engaging the clutch fully but after enduring rush hour traffic in the hilly streets of SF yesterday, I noticed that I could replicate the grinding at a full stop with the clutch fully engaged which makes me think that maybe my clutch is going bad.
I'm a bit unsure since the car still pulls up the hills like a champ (maybe it could be pulling harder?) and need to point out tell tale signs to look for when your clutch is starting to fail and requires replacement.
If my problem is not due to clutch, what could it be? If it is, any good place in bay area to take the R? I plan to replace with stock set up.
Currently I have stock clutch w/ +73k miles. I did have an episode where a car transporter managed to make thick grey smoke pour from my clutch due to ineptitude so clutch failure would not surprise me.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: A/C Clutch Not Engaging
My mother In law's a/c is not working. Last year I replaced the compressor, fcm, and pressure sensor and nothing. Well fast forward a year and I'm here again trying to sort it out. I unplugged the connector to the compressor and there is 2 black wires 1 wire has 6 volts (not 12v) and the others reads nothing. When I turn the A/C on the fans do come on.
View 6 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: AC Clutch Not Engaging
Driving home yesterday and the ac wouldnt come on my 2003 golf. Worked fine day before. All fuses are fine. Small fan works but large one needs to be replaced but its been that way. Ac button works fine too. What else would cause the clutch to not engage? I believe the pressure is fine as it worked fine the day before.
View 3 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: Clicking When Engaging Clutch
Exactly what the title says.....when its cold out/cold start....engaging the clutch pedal it makes a click sounds up top of engagement?
View 6 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 Gti VR6 Stuck In Reverse / Clutch Won't Fully Disengage
My 01 GTi (12v VR6) was having some trouble shifting into, and out of, first and reverse so after a bit of research I decided to try adjusting the shift linkage as it seemed like a possible easy fix. After doing that I tried backing it up in the driveway and after a couple of shifts to different gears it ended up getting stuck in reverse. When I pushed in the clutch pedal to let it roll forward I noted that it seemed to be resisting rolling forward despite the steep incline. Once it reached a less steep incline it stopped rolling forward completely, so I'm thinking that it probably won't come out of gear because the clutch won't disengage all the way.
I've done some searching around and from what I've read so far it sounds like it could be a worn or damaged clutch fork, the hydraulic lines, master or slave cylinder, or even a broken clutch plate. What I don't want to do is pull the transmission and clutch, only to find that it was something much easier to fix.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Air Conditioning Clutch Not Engaging
Here's the story: was on my way downtown last night to get a new suit (I'm in Savannah, GA so it's hot) and AC was working great. The Jetta (2003 AWP) is a stock-everything-1.8T that has never had any AC work done to it from the day I bought it new. I figured it was doing just fine so just leave it alone. Anyway, leave the suit shop (bought a gray three-piece) and go back to the parking lot, start up and get ready to leave, no cold air from the vents. I get it home and do some reading on here and also in the Bentley manual and get into some preliminary troubleshooting. Here's what I have so far:
- Engine running/AC button ON/Blower on "3"/Recirculation OFF/Engine at operating temperature
- Turn blower ON - visually verified that clutch is not engaged and compressor is not spinning
- Shut car off, compressor does turn by hand easily
- With AC button on and blower on, passenger side cooling fan (behind radiator) is ON but driver side cooling fan IS NOT on - I think this indicates a problem from what I've read
- Checked cabin fuses 5, 16, & 25. All have low resistance (good continuity) and are not discolored. Just to make sure I scuffed the contacts with a scotchbrite pad and reinstalled them
- Same deal for the top-of-the-battery power distribution block. All fuses checked okay and were scuffed and reinstalled
- Moved on to the pressure switch/pressure sensor. My vehicle has the 3-pin sensor so jumping contacts is not a possibility. I need to rent/buy a duty cycle meter to check it. Any good tutorial on how to do this? Do I disconnect the connector and check it right at the switch or must I break out the wires and check it in parallel with the connector attached to the sensor?
- I grabbed a flat-head screwdriver and gave the high-pressure and low-pressure service valves a poke and got a good blast of pressure from them so I don't think the system is empty.
- Did a little more reading and found I needed to check voltage at the 3-pin connector on top of the battery power distribution block. I did this with the key ON - no power at any of the pins. Repeated with key ON and engine running with AC button ON and blower ON - still no voltage. For these measurements, the connector was DISCONNECTED. Does this matter? Do I need to have it plugged in to get voltage there (i.e., read the voltage from the rear of the connector with it installed?)
- Finally, and perhaps most enlightening, I suspected I may simply be low on R134a so I bought a can with a pressure gauge on it. Connected it to low-pressure side with engine running, AC button ON, blower on "4", recirculation OFF. The gauge read ~150 PSIG. Yes, this seems high to me too; however, the compressor is still not turning at this point. Does it need to turn to get a good pressure reading from the LP service valve? I recall from everything I read that if pressure is too low, the clutch won't engage, and if pressure is too high, the clutch won't engage
So, as far as I can tell I have a few problems...
1. The driver side fan doesn't run when AC button is ON
2. No voltage at the 3-pin connector on the battery power distribution block Incorrect methods...there is voltage there.
3. Low-pressure side of the AC system is too high Called and checked with a local mechanic...I won't receive correct pressures if the compressor is not turning.
My next steps are to check the voltage at the compressor connector for 12VDC. I suspect I'll get 0V because it's clearly not turning. I'll do this once I can figure out how to get the dang connectors apart without breaking them. 11-year-old heat fatigued plastic is brittle...
Finally got the compressor connector apart.. there is 12VDC on pin 1 and 0VDC on pin 2 (it's a ground, so there shouldn't be..ground continuity check good). Ohmed out the clutch...from what I can tell, that circuit is open. However, I am not 100% sure I was on the contacts because of how the connector is positioned. I'm going to get a dummy connector from a salvage yard and connect it up and make sure I have good contact before I call it a bad clutch.
Golf IV R32 :: Wheels Not Engaging Off - Clutch Burnt
I got my R32 back 2 days ago after deploying to Iraq for a year. Upon driving it for the first time I took it a little easy on the car. I made sure the clutch was fully out before I did anything silly and what not.
Today I took it to the track and on the first launch I dropped it from like 3500 rpm and the RPMs shot up to 7500 and the car was moving at like 5 mph. I hit second gear and the rpm almost instantly shot up to 7500 rpm's again with the car moving at like 10 or 15 miles an hour.
After that, i let off completely. I tried one more time out in the warm up area to see what the hell was going on. Did the same thing. I could smell what I'm guessing was clutch burning pretty freaking bad. I'm, not 100% sure it was the clutch because I've never smelt a clutch smell that strong before.
Golf/GTI VI :: 2010 - Clutch Not Engaging Correctly
So i just took my 2010 Golf 2.5 into the dealer because it was not going into gear. Its a 5 speed with 12, 900 miles. They tell me they have to pull the trans and open it up before they can even tell whether or not the problem is covered under warranty!
View 16 RepliesGolf IV R32 :: Clutch Gargling When Slowly Engaging?
Lately I've noticed that when slowly engaging first or reverse, the clutch has noticeable but not loud chatter, kind of like its gargling a little. I JUST changed the trans fluid from OEM to Amsoil 75W-90 API GL4 and its about the same time the noise came, but I'm not going to assume right now that this is the source of the noise. Clutch acts just the same, apart from this gargle.
Might be worth mentioning that this all seems to have started about the same time the temps around here started to dip below 30 on a regular basis
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Clutch Engaging Slowly When Turn The AC On
Got a weird issue that I've never encountered before. I tried searching but you can't search for just "A/C", so the search was pretty generic and I couldn't find anything similar to my issue.
Hot or cold, doesn't matter. When I turn the A/C on the clutch try's to engage and slowly starts to spin with the pulley until until it finally engages then the a/c will blow out cold air just fine. Also noticed a burning smell coming from it.
01 Jetta 2.0
Golf/GTI VI :: Clutch Would Slip And Then Bang While Engaging After Raining
Today I parked my golf on the street and it was raining, when I came back to the car after four hours the street had flooded and water was about an inch below the bottom of the door on the driver side, and about an inch (or more) on the passenger side and up to the bottom of the exhaust pipes in the back.
The car started fine, but when I began to drive it the clutch would slip and then bang while engaging. Once I had taken off a few times gently everything smoothed out. Car drives fine and the engine bay was dry when I got home (a 40 minute highway drive). NO water got inside the car at all, so the interior was completely dry, every thing appeared to function perfectly. My question is, assuming just the bottom of the motor, trans, and undercarriage got wet is there anything I should be weary of? Any sensors or electrical things down there? Lights, ac, door locks, everything is working and running fine and dry at this point.
Golf/GTI VI :: EPC Light Came On When Slowly Engaging The Clutch While Accelerating
The other night I threw an EPC light. I've tried reading older posts but haven't found anything.
I was at the top of a hill, slowly engaging the clutch while accelerating. I wasn't trying to floor it or anything. My car immediately went into limp mode and the EPC light came on. I pulled over, restarted the car, and it went away. It happened again the next day in the same place.
I am only having the problem on a steep hill while engaging the clutch. Other than this situation, the car seems to be running fine. The car is completely bone stock. I don't have a VAGCOM and can't really afford to purchase one at the moment.
Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Loud Humming Sound Like Compressor Or Something Kicking On And Not Fully Engaging
I took my car in to get this checked out, but they say they can't hear it.
Sometimes when I turn my car on right after I turn it on, there's a loud humming sound like a compressor or something is kicking on and it's not fully engaging. And it only makes the sound for maybe 3-5 secs. Sometimes it won't happen when I turn the car on, but when I'm driving and I let off the gas and go to touch the brakes, it'll start.
The best I can describe it is a 'hum'...but it's loud, and I can feel it as if it's near the gas pedal right behind the firewall.
Dealer thought maybe it was the ABS switch testing itself..but they could never reproduce....I got in after they replaced my rims and checked it...and it did it 4 times when I started it, then turned it off. He came out to check, and it was almost as if you couldnt hear it outside of the car.
So, what the sound might be...I can't reproduce it anytime I'm there. Figures...... but I hear it almost daily. He put some foam tape on the firewall behind the gas lines saying the 'pulsing' from them might be doing it...but it did it again this morning.
Golf/GTI VI :: Screeching / Metal On Metal Noise When Engaging Clutch?
For the past few months, pretty consistently, whenever I engage the clutch from full stop into first gear (it does it when starting in second gear too; and reverse) there is a pretty obnoxious and loud screeching noise that I would liken to a subway/train braking or just metal on metal grinding situation. When I took the car in to Douglas for an oil change and APR Stg 1 flash, they told me it's just the brakes being cold, etc. After driving the car some more, I really doubt that it's the brakes and I can reproduce this regularly by slowly releasing the clutch and get the noise usually just before the gear engages.
That car has just over 16K on the clock and has never been abused. The clutch pedal feels fine and there is no issue shifting into any of the gears other than the noise. No mods other than the APR Stage 1.
Honda - Cr-v :: 1999 - Total Clutch Failure / Does Not Engage Fully When Let Out
Our 1999 CRV has had the clutch fail several times in the past year. The pattern is that you notice it slipping a bit now and then, but trending worse over a few days. Then it gets dramatically worse in a period of minutes: it does not engage fully when let out. The pedal feels fine, the engine is running fine, but power is not transmitted to the wheels.
On two occasions, we were able to take it directly and the mechanic resolved the problem with some adjustment to the master cylinder, or something like that (my wife spoke to the mechanic and it was many months ago).
Last winter, I was driving as the problem was recurring and I found myself nursing the slipping clutch up a steep one mile grade. At the top of the hill, totally flat ground, the problem continued to get worse for the next half mile, till there was no power at all! Engine fine, pedal action fine, but effectively the clutch was permanently disengaged. I left the car there over night. The next morning, before calling for a tow, I tried again and the clutch was working! I could tell it was still slipping a bit, but it was no problem to drive to the mechanic, who fixed the problem again for just a hundred bucks or so.
Yesterday, my wife again found that the clutch failed completely over the course of a few miles driving. She had to be towed. Today the mechanic says they can't reproduce the problem!
Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Clutch Engages When Pedal Is Almost Fully Released
In every other manual transmission vehicle I have ever driven, the clutch pedal engages/disengages within an inch of the floor. Is it normal that the clutch in my 2002 Hyundai Elantra engages when the pedal is so far away from the floor? When I say far away from the floor I mean within an inch of the pedal being fully released.
View 21 RepliesPassat (B5) :: Clunking / Vibrating And Clutch Sinking When Fully Released
2000 v6 manual wagon with +-90k. Brutally lowered with KW coils. First thing I noticed was the clutch pedal slowly getting lower and lower to the floor when fully released. Besides the pitch getting shorter, it seems to work fine, no slipping at all. It now sits a couple inches closer to the floor than the other pedals.
I am also getting a couple other things that may or may not relate to the clutch. It started out as a vibration under acceleration, getting worse over about a month or so. Now it is also starting to clunk when pressing or releasing the gas while the clutch is released. It also clunks when moving from a stop, although I can regulate this with the clutch.
I am thinking it is a motor mount causing the clunking and vibrating, and maybe the engines movement has caused the clutch to come out of alignment?? I am unsure where to start, which mount to check, etc.
I also just had my oil pan replaced after slamming the ground recently. Although the problems were starting before this, I am sure this wasn't exactly good for the motor mounts....
TrailBlazer :: 2004 - AC Clutch Not Engaging
SYMPTOM : 04 Trailblazer had intermittent A/C clutch engagement with the A/C system fully charged (showed about 80lbs on low side with engine off)...
SOLUTION : Three wire plug that plugs into the A/C pump has a bad connection on middle pin. I chased the middle wire with a pick and pushed firmly, the A/C pump kicked in, and out when I released pressure.
Testing the Harnass side: with relay #44 crossed (pins 30 & 87), with vehicle on or off, and the plug attached, you should have 12V+ at dark green (middle wire), you should have a ground on the black or brown wire, and you should have approx. 5v+ on the Lt Green or yellow wire.
Testing the clutch side: (harnass unplugged)
Black to red 3.7 ohms.
Black to other red 3.7 ohms.
red to red .01 ohms (fully closed circuit)
- If red to red open circuit, you have a bad switch on the compressor body---replace compressor.
- If red to black open circuit, you have a failed electromagnet in your clutch, relace clutch.
- If compressor side tests good, and you are missing 5v+ on harnass side, you have a bad connection.
Sonata NF (2006-10) :: A/C Clutch Not Engaging
I'm having trouble with my a/c clutch not engaging now for about 4 days. I believe I have narrowed it down to the field coil. I checked and I am getting 14 volts at the wire that plugs into the compressor. Auto a/c function will not turn on the a/c compressor light on the dash, but will turn on when manually pushed. When this first started, the radiator fan would kick on but spin slowly and now does not turn on at all when engaging a/c.
Per an older thread I checked the resistance at the a/c relay, though it did not tell me which pin(s). The only readings in ohms I could find from the a/c relay junction in the engine fuse box said 69-76 ohms, but I am unsure whether I am reading the correct wires or the correct way. Facing the front of the car, I am getting the above ohm reading from the bottom right pin to ground. Which pin is the correct one to test?
I am currently thinking the a/c clutch field coil is bad, but it stumps me that the radiator fan will not kick on either now.
Background of car : PO wrecked car, damaging the front end. I bought the car and fixed it up. A/C Pulley was replaced due to bent flange where serpentine belt travels. Also brand new radiator fan and replaced other seemingly non-related items to this issue.