Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Shuddering In OD - High Idle - Missing On Deceleration
My truck was shuddering in od. So as I last effort thinking it might be injectors I pulled all of them and replaced all of the orings and valve cover harnesses. After all of this was done seemed to do nothing at all. Now a new problem has surfaced. It's having idle problems. It will now idle at 780-850 instead of 650-700rmps. Also on deceleration it will miss pretty bad. Checked all of my injectors again all connections are good and all of the injectors are tight. Not burning any oil. So I unplugged the icp and bam runs like a top perfect running engine. So I bought a new one and plugged it in and itake doing the same thing. So what is going on! Also it was throwing a random check engine light but wouldn't bring a code up I'm completely lost....
View 2 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 - Occasional Miss At Highway Speeds / Bucking And Jerking During Even Gentle Acceleration
165k miles 4x4 6 speed, bone stock unmolested
Slowly progressing problem over 6 months. Occasional miss at highway speeds uphill has progressed to bucking and jerking during even gentle acceleration attempts.
I hadn't got my cam sensor recall done but no change after that procedure completed yesterday. Oil recently changed as well.
I have a torque pro but it never finds any fault codes even though 'service engine' light comes on sporadically. I'm not sure I'm operating it properly but it at least reads rpm when its running.
I'm contemplating the hutch mod but I'd like to have an official diagnosis beforehand if its possible in my case.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 - High Beams Won't Stay On
First time driving my 'new' 2000 7.3 Ex and the high beams won't stay on for more than a minute or two. Playing with the switch in the driveway, they came on after a minute of not being run, but after throwing the switch a few more times, they wouldn't come on again. The indicator light corresponds with the high beam function. I'm thinking a relay is going bad? The switch is brand new and the bulbs are definitely working. Also, I did not get an owners manual with the truck, and the fuse diagram I found online did not match the box at my left knee.
View 11 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Bad Stutter / P1316 Code
Wife put fuel in my truck drove it home and as soon as I started it back up it was running rough as hell. When I got to the freeway it got real rough at 1500 rpms in overdrive. If I bring it up over 2000rpm it's better but still feels rough. When I got off work and started it up I got the p1316 code.
I did some research tested plugs on the valve covers a few pins were over 5ohms so pulled the valve covers did the 50cent mod to shimm the under valve cover wiring harness. All pins are around 3.5 ohms. It did not fix the problem.
I then dropped the tank thinking maybe the pick up was gunked up. I've read all the horror stories about the delamination in Ford tanks. Good news is that I have a plastic fuel tank. Bad news is the screens though dirty weren't dirty enough to cause my problems. Where should I go from here?
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Shudder / Stutter And Shake While Accelerating
I have a early 99 7.3l that seem to cut out and shudder while accelerating at low rpm's below 2000 once I am above 2000 rpm it seems to go away similar to a dirty carburetor thinking injector problem...
View 2 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 - Engine Dies Occasionally On Deceleration
I have a 2002 excursion 7.3L. It has started dying lately after I let off of the pedal and the vehicle slows down and the engine is supposed to go to idle but sometimes it dies. It will start back up right away. It has begun to start a little rougher especially after it dies. I have replace the CPS and I got new batteries.
View 14 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Truck Has Lost Power Towing And Is Now Starting To Miss A Little
I want test my fuel pressure. What is a good gauge or kit to buy? My truck has lost power towing and is now starting to miss a little. I'm wandering if i my problem is in the tank. Is there a good scan tool that would diagnose things too?
View 14 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Ran Rough - Stalled - Noticeable Miss?
Did my starter yesterday. Today now several times, truck ran rough and stalled. Turned over, tach not bumping, no codes. Would go after a couple tries. Stuffed a new CPS into it. Drive 30 miles, now has a noticable miss, no codes, no smoke and quit again, but started right up.
No codes. Does not feel like another truck and under valve cover gaskets.
1999 7.3 Super duty!
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Miss Causing Truck To Shudder
Took the beast out for a good road trip to try out the new tires. She is running good now, but has picked up a weird miss which cause the truck to shudder. It does feel and sound just like a miss, I know that it is a diesel but that is only way to describe it.
When driving along with the cruise set at 75, when I hit a hill, the truck will gradually accelerate, and it will miss a beat. Just like you turned it off and right back on very fast. Usually once, twice if the hill is long. If I accelerate harder it will not do it. Most often does it while gradually moving accelerator.
Has new fuel filter ad cam sensor.. Runs great the rest of the time.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 F350 - High Idle / Over Drive Light Started Blinking
OK, truck is 2000 F350. I am heading on a 2000 mile roadtrip to Yellowstone for my wife's 40th birthday in two days. What was our rock of a vehicle is now causing me severe anxiety.
Over the last few days the truck has been difficult to start - almost stops turning over as if the batteries were low. So I ignored it because if I plug it in, it starts fine and if I drive it and it gets hot - it starts fine.
Tonight while driving - I noticed a high idle and then it went to normal - I thought it was weird and a few miles later at a stop sign it struggled at idle, sort of loping but not romping very high and the over drive light started blinking. When I got home when I went from drive to neutral it goes to high idle and then the overdrive light blinks. The first time it blinked it went off when I pressed the OD button - but now it continues to blink.
Would low batteries be the root cause of this? I will continue my search for blinking OD light but I thought I would get this in the queue in case this is bigger than I can handle. I have 48 hours to resolve this issue - leaving Wednesday early morning.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Crank No Start Sometimes - Stutter / Stalls And Slow Acceleration
I have 2001 F250 7.3L 261k miles.
Over the last few months, I have noticed that my truck is taking longer & longer to start after sitting for a long time (i.e. every morning, after work, etc.) When the problem first started (3-4 months ago) it would crank for 2 seconds & nothing so I would turn it off, let the "wait to start" light go off again (depending on outside temp 10-20 seconds) & then it would crank & usually fire right over like it was new. That seemed to happen only in the morning when it was 70 degrees or colder outside but no problem after work when it was 80+ degrees.
As the weather has gotten colder, it has gotten progressively worse. A couple of weeks ago, it was in the 40s in the morning & it took a solid 8 or 9 minutes of cranking for a few seconds, then trying again before it started. Once it started it did "chuga chug" a couple of times before it smoothed out. Last week when it was 16 degrees in the morning, it wouldn't start at all. I tried for a solid 15 minutes before I gave up.
I will say that as it has gotten worse over the last couple of months, I have noticed that it's cranking w/o firing but I will hear it fire once or twice per crank before it will fire up & run. Once it starts, it runs like a champ. No studders, stalls, slow acceleration, etc. Pulls like it always has. The weirdest part about it is that once it starts & runs for 30-60 seconds, I can shut it off & it'll fire right up every time. If I get it up to full operating temperature, I can go back & start it right up 2 or 3 hours later w/o a problem.
I did notice my oil cooler is leaking pretty badly (that will be fixed this weekend) & my valley has fluid in it but it's hard to tell if it's diesel, oil or a combination of the two because my truck is setup to run on WMO (waste motor oil). I have dual tanks so the OEM tank is diesel & the auxillary tank is WMO. I have 2 mechanical fuel pressure gauges on my fuel bowl, 1 pre & 1 post fuel filter as well as an aftermarket Walbro fuel pump. The fuel pressure when running on WMO has always bounced a little bit between (65-75 psi) but the fuel pressure on diesel has always held solid at 75 psi until recently when I have noticed that it flutters a very small amount between 73-75 psi.
I have verified that the GP Relay works & was leaning towards a glow plug problem but considering it was having troubles at 70 degrees ambient temperature, I'm hesitant to think that's the true problem. I think that might just be adding to the problem. I live in the south so my truck doesn't have a block heater but I'm going to add one this weekend when I replace the oil cooler gaskets & o-rings.
I'm also going to pick up a new Android tablet today (replace my broken one) so I can use the Torque Pro app to monitor ICP, HPOP & InjPW. Finally, I had a DP Tuner chip on it & to remove that as the possible cause, I removed it & the same symptoms continued.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Truck Has A Rough Idle And Sounds Like There Is A Miss
I just installed glow plugs, ucvh, stage 2 rosewood injectors, t500, ipr and gear head tunes. I have out 97 miles on the truck since all this was installed and the truck seems to run okay but has a rough idle and sounds like there is a mis? What should I look into first?
View 12 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 F350 - Missing After Start Up - High Idle - Got Codes P1316 / P1211?
Well, long story is that I starting have problems with my 2000 F350 Dually 7.3 PSD about 6 months ago ( ~10K miles ago ). I have sunk almost 5K$ in mechanics and the problem is still present.
By troubleshoot, I do not mean try this, try this, as that has been what is happening. I mean making test measurements and diagnostics. I am fairly mechanically inclined, but I am no mechanic. Looking for primers on how the 7.3 PSD works.
Symptoms: After the truck sits 12 to 14 hours, it starts and idles fine ( ~ 700 RPM on the 'Dash Tach' ) just as it has always done. During the first 5 miles of driving it, the SES light comes on and it sputters, stalls, and vibrates as if a couple of the injectors are not firing. It then clears up and the SES light goes out, except that it idles at about 1200 RPM ( 'Dash Tach' ).
It runs fine like this the rest of the day, If I shut it down it will start right up and run fine, but it has the high idles. Only if it is shut down longer than 12 to 16 hours do the symptoms, other than the high idle, reappear. The high idle is constant. Also mpg have fallen ( 13 opposed to 16 ).
It does not seem to be related to ambient temperature, or the amount of warm-up idle. I have idled it for three hours on startup and it is fine, until I drive the first 5 miles or so.
Now, I have had three mechanics work on it and they have replaced: the ICP sensor ( 3 times ), the Fuel filter ( twice ), drained, flushed and refilled the HPOP, replaced both sides of the valve cover wiring harness, put in a new IDM, fuel heater, CPS sensor ( 3 times ), fuel pump in fuel tank, EBPV ( not sure what this is ), and the last straw was saying the injectors needed to be replaced ( or at least the O-rings, but while we are in there you might as well ... ).
I bought a cheap code reader and it says: P1316 & P1211. I believe these are the same codes since day 1.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Noticeable Miss And Lots Of White Smoke When Starting
1999 7.3 misses when starting it cold (first start of the day even when outside temps were around 20 deg C ). It has a noticeable miss and lots of white smoke. After warming up it runs perfect. I changed the GPR and tested all glow plugs, 3 bad and one weak one all replaced. Now that it is cold out it still misses when first started, even if left plugged in.
It will start and run for approx 3 seconds perfectly smooth then it starts to miss and idle speed slows down. on one occasion I went to start it after sitting 10 plus hours plugged in and it started then missed and slowly died. Would not re start, It was firing and smoking but not enough to get going again. Went back the next day and it started and ran fine for a few weeks. Did the same thing to me yesterday, started and then petered out and died and this time it will not re start after 2 days of trying on a couple occasions. I changed out the CPS with no luck.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Slight Miss At Idle - White And Blue Smoke From The Exhaust
Early 99 7.3. Runs ok has a slight miss at idle however every injector when unhooked makes a change. Has white and blue smoke From the exhaust. Has enough blow by to blow the oil cap off as your unscrewing it. My question is, I know engine restore is bad for these trucks but I can't afford to rebuild the engine. If I run the restore and then clean the IRP once the truck dies is this going to mess anything else up. Do you think it will by me a few months to save up for a rebuild
View 9 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: White Smoke At Startup And Knock When It Warms Up
So my truck a stock 2000 7.3 started smoking when I would start it up in the morning... figured it was a glow plug issue. Checked the relay it was good, checked the glow plugs found 2 were bad replaced them.
Thought I was done, well I started it up and took it for a drive. still smoked... thought no big deal I know some oil leaked into the cylinders doing the glow plugs.
Then it started rattling like a lift went out, no more smoke though because the truck was warm... shut it off at my buddies. Limped it "it actually still drives ok" 5 miles home.
From my research it sounds like an injector. I have tried a buzz test and they all sound the same.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 F550 - Knock After Injectors Replaced
I just replaced all 8 injectors in my 01 F550 with remans from FFD. I have noticed a constant knock at idle but truck runs great. Blowby has no pressure behind it, truck does not smoke. Does this sound like a problem unrelated to an injector?
It did not make this noise before replacing the injectors
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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Tuck Has Developed A Knock Once Fully Warmed Up
Over the past few week my truck has developed a knock once it has fully warmed up. At first I thought it was possibly injector knock and kind of got excited about the prospect of upgrading to larger injectors. Well, my short lived optimism came to an end today once I got ahold of my father's mechanics stethoscope. So today I let it fully warm up and like clock work the knock came back. After going over nearly every inch of the top end, nothing was producing what I was hearing.
So I crawled under the beast and located the source. Right where the bellhousing mates the the engine block is where the knock is definitely loudest. At first I thought it was louder in while in gear but today it didn't matter if it was in gear or not. I removed the bellhousing cover and inspected what I could see of the flexplate. Couldn't see and cracks or breaks but from what I see through google searches is that it cracks behind the spacer. Now my first thought is that it's the flexplate but I'm hoping more experienced people can tell me what they think.
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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Intermittent Idle Knock Heavy Use Dependent
My late 99 has 161K, I am the 2nd owner and bought from the Original owner. It is stock with no tunes. Auto/4wd.
It has had an intermittent idle knock and recently has gotten much louder recently when used heavily with towing for summer camping in the 7K range up steep hills. The knocking goes away above 12-1500 rpm. There is no noise when the engine is cold. It seems heavily temp/load/heavy use dependent. If driven lightly, the knock is quieter but still present. The trans was recently rebuilt and new billet converter installed, made no difference so it's not that it would appear.
I rec'd blackstone last week and the results are excellent. Running the cyl contribution test while hot in drive at idle reveals cyl 8 is running 4.9 to 5.4 Perdels. #3 is 2.2 to 2.8. 1,6,7 are 0. 2 is .6 and 5 is .4.... I haven't checked bolt torque yet. My question: Is #8 "fixable" potentially with bolt torque? Is it considered too far gone and should just be replaced?