Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F350 - Front Brake Caliper Bracket Bolts
I read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: F350 - Rear Parking Brake Sticking / Wheel Started Smoking Severely?
A few weeks back my rear drivers side wheel started smoking severely...when I stopped you could smell the brake material, feel the heat coming from the wheel, and lots of smoke. I speculated it was the parking brake that got hung up. I jiggled that cable around and then went around the block - no issue. Note: I did not leave the parking brake on.
It happened again a week later, but not as bad. I took it into the dealer today. They said heat was evident as it burned off a sticker on the disk or caliper hsg area. They have not determined yet if it is parking brake or caliper?
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Front Disc Brake Caliper Pistons Won't Go Back In
2001 F250 SD diesel. Brakes have been working fine with no pulling. They just started to squeal recently so I knew it was time for some new pads.
I'm having a problem that seems to plague me often when I try to replace disc brake pads. I can't get the twin pistons to go back in to allow room to get the new, thicker pads in.
I unscrewed the cap to the master cylinder and used a spreading tool (that came in a brake kit from Advance Auto Parts) to compress the pistons. No movement.
I put a lot of force on it. No piston movement.
I unscrewed the bleeder screw and tried again. No movement.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Front Brake Caliper Seems To Be Sticking?
Yesterday, I noticed that my right front brake caliper seemed to be sticking. This morning I jacked up the front end, and could barely turn the right front wheel when it was off the ground. So, I have concluded that that caliper is sticking. So, here is the question(s): what is the best way to repair this (new caliper, rebuilt caliper, or rebuild it myself), do I need to do both sides the same or can I just do the one that is acting up, and should I expect to pay. I have some mechanical ability, but that Haynes manual doesn't make too much sense to me. Getting it professionally repaired is extremely inconvenient, I need to be back at school (300 miles away) Tuesday evening, and probably couldn't get it in to get it done before then.
View 12 RepliesToyota - Tacoma :: Front Disc Brake Squeal - Loud Sound Like A Rock In A Caliper
I own an '05 Prerunner with 56k miles. Had the front pads replaced and turned the rotors last Spring.
Now, after sitting for awhile, as I back up the front brakes squeal. (Sounds like a rock in a caliper its so loud.)
Toyota has a TSB to fix this.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Uneven Front Brake Wear / Caliper Sticking Slightly
2000 Ranger, see my sig.
Just had to swap out the pads on my truck yesterday. The pedal was pretty mushy and I was getting shaking in the steering wheel when the brakes got warm. Shaking wasn't all the time, only after they had been used quite a bit - say after city use and the brakes had to be applied suddenly. So I popped off the tires and swapped out the pads and replaced the brake fluid - flushed it.
On the driver side front, the pads barely had any real wear and the anti-rattle clip was all messed up. It was installed properly, but it looked like the pads had smashed into it. The rotor appeared to be warped, or at least out of round - but just barely. You could see it wobble slightly in one spot if you spun the hub with the caliper removed. The caliper itself was sticking slightly.
I didn't see any evidence of damage, the brakes flushed just fine although the fluid was incredibly dirty (because I haven't done it in a long while). On the passenger side front, the pads were worn down to the level I would have expected given the mileage. The wear was even.
My question ultimately is this - is the out of round hub the culprit here? Might there be something else going on like a caliper problem? Ultimately I plan on having the rotors surfaced - one of them certainly needs it and with new pads I might as well do it anyway.
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Right Front Caliper Sticking / Brake Burning Smell
I know this has been talked about many times and how to solve the issue but thought I would ask some other questions too. Earlier in the summer, I did grease the slider pins as preventative maintenance. I don't drive my truck all that much and when I used it yesterday, (about 30 minute drive) I came home to burning brake smell. I'm wondering if enough heat would cause the caliper to go bad? Should I just grease the pins again or change out some parts?
View 6 RepliesPrius (Gen 2) :: Pistons In Driver Side Front Brake Caliper Is Sticking
One of the pistons in my driver side (UK) front brake caliper is sticking, so I've bought a second hand caliper just to fix the problem until I come to sell my pri in a month or so.
View 15 RepliesCamry :: ABS Brake - Front Driver Side Caliper Sticking And Heating Up
2005 Toyota Solara my front driver side caliper was sticking and heating up a couple months ago... replaced the caliper and the rotor... still had the same problem. I would drive it, it got hot and stuck, after I parked for a little while it slowly released. Talked to a couple of mechanics and they both said undoubtedly I had a bad flex hose and it was collapsing with pressure and then will release... I changed the flex hose and flushed the fluid and it was immediately fixed...no problems.
Drove the car for a month, went to South Carolina and back and then a couple days ago the same thing started happening. Talked to a mechanic, he told me that the new caliper may have gotten fried from over heating before I changed the flex hose... Got a new caliper today (warranty) exchange... changed it out and still have the same problem. When it sticks I can release the pressure by opening the bleeder valve so it seems like the flex hose issue again... my only thought now is maybe the new flex hose is a bad one and someone mentioned the proportioning valve.
Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 - Acted Like E-brake On - No CEL?
Was out on a camping trip. Went to move the truck and it acted like the emergency brake was on. I put it in and out of park 3-4 times with the same result. Noticed when I took my foot off the brake, it went from 1st to 5th. One of the guys in our group said to turn off the truck, wait 10 seconds. I did and all is well again. There were no CEL lights or anything.
Have 2700 miles on my 2011 (bought new May)
Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 - Right Brake Light Out - Fuse Diagram?
I was wanting a fuse digram for a 2011 f250 6.7. My right brake light is out and I don't have a way of knowing what fuses have to deal with the lights. If some one could tell the which ones or send me a diagram
View 2 RepliesFord 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 - Increase Trailer Brake Output?
I still have my 2011 6.7 f350 CC. I have a triple axle (single wheel) gooseneck tilt deck trailer that I pull my older dozer and backhoe on.
With the trailer brake gain set to 10 I don't have as much brake engagement as I would like. It actually wont lock them up at all when adjusting the gain. Loaded I don't feel any engagement when manually sliding the controller.
On my sons 99 f350, with after market controller he can adjust his output so that the brakes engaugelock at just about any adjustment (way over breaking) so I believe the trailer brakes work fine, I just don't get enough output from the factory controller.
Is there any additional adjustments the factory controller has or any suggestions to increase the output more so the brakes have a bit more engagement?
Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 F250 - Vacuum Brake Booster Failures
Brake booster failures on 2011 and newer F-250's? I purchased a 2011 last august and the mechanic at the dealer I purchased the truck from stated that he had replaced the vacuum pump, vacuum brake booster and brake master cylinder on the truck just before I bought it as they were bad. Since then I have had two factory Ford vacuum Boosters fail on me. That makes at least three new factory Ford booster assemblies in this truck within the last year. What could be causing the problem? The truck is out of warranty and I am at a loss as to what could be causing them problem. Too much vacuum? Luckily the last two boosters have failed while sitting in a drive through and at a stop light, otherwise I may have had trouble stopping.
View 3 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: New Caliper Now Loose Brake Pedal?
Ive had plenty of brake issues with this truck since I've owned it and I finally got to inspect a brake i knew was having issues. The outside pad was metal on metal. The inside pad was gone and the one piston was extended completely open while the other one was closed. So to the question. Ive bled it like i do any other caliper and no luck. I went an bled all the other calipers and still no luck. The brakes seem to be working ok even though i never really tested them super hard but the pedal is far lower then it was before.
View 9 RepliesFord 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 F350 Won't Start / Trailer Brake Module Fault
I'm having some electronic problem with my 350. I parked it and took both batteries out for about a week. I put 2 brand new ones in and hooked them up truck won't start. So I turned key on and left on and the fault that comes up is the "trailer brake module fault" also the abs light, parking brake light & passenger airbag lights are on. Sometimes if I leave key on long enough the lights go away and I can start the truck. But it shuts down during idle. I unplugged the tbc (indash) and the #22 fuse under hood and #31# on passenger side. Still showing the fault. I'm not being allowed to start the truck. I used my tuner and found one code (P0884 tcm power input intermediate)..
View 14 RepliesFord 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 F350 - Clunk / Clank At Both Wheels Around The Brake Area
I have a 2011 F-350 CCSB 4x4 w/ 20" Wheels and the electronic locker. I have had for some time a noise when I go over small bumps (pulling into garage up a 1" lip) at slow speeds. It sounds/feels like side to side movement. I have traced this down to what sounds like looseness inside the rear differential. To recreate, I lay down and shove hard on the spare tire. This pushes the truck side to side. I can hear a clank/clunk at both wheels around the brake area.
View 14 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Left Rear Brake Sticking?
I noticed today (smell burning brakes) that my left rear brake is sticking on my 1999 2WD F250. I hear that this is a common problem? Is it usually a defective Caliper or emergency brake Issue? I had my rear brakes done 50k ago with rotors and rebuilt calipers (first set went 130k).... I don't think it was a total clamp down infrared temperature was 275 degrees on sticking brake and 75 degrees on the ones that were not sticking.
View 9 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Driving With A Sticking Turbo / Sluggish And Smokes A Lot
I've come to the conclusion that after 300,000 miles my turbo is sticking. I need to drive the truck up to my mechanic but he's 50 miles away 90% highway (really don't wanna pay the towing bill) would this hurt the truck any more or would it be okay? If it will hurt the truck more I'll get it towed but I'm trying to avoid that at all costs. I have drove it since the turbo began to stick but it is very sluggish and smokes a lot. As soon as I let off the pedal boost immediately drops to 0 psi.
View 3 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Running Rough When Cold / No Smoke / Sticking Throttle
So,I am working on a 2003 F250 6.0 manual trans. all stock. 204,000 miles. I got it not running. Charged the batteries and pulled the 14 codes accumulated by the last people trying to work on it.There were cyl 1,2,5,6,7,8 contrib codes, P0403 and P0405 egr(the egr was unplugged when I got it), P0341 Cam pos., P0500 VSS, P0562 voltage low, P0683 glow plugs, P1378 fuel inj. ctrl., and a P1000. It is on it's second used car lot, no one can fix it and I don't know what they have done.
Cleared the codes, removed, cleaned, replaced the EGR, installed new batteries, and went over the wiring harnesses. I am down to the P1000, an occasional P0405, and random cyl 3, sometimes 2 contrib codes. If I warm it up and clear the codes, I don't get any contrib codes.
I hooked up the Scan Gauge and the ICP is 554-up cranking, starts without any long crank, runs at 644 at an idle, revs up and reads 2404 max. This is sitting in the garage.
The IPR was 14.8 to start off with, running mostly between 29.7 and 38. revving it up. The FMD is steady 48.0. I have run the buzz test both warm and cold- sounds good, no faults found. Have run the KOER and KOEO demand tests, no faults. There is no smoking. I have changed the fuel filters. I have not located an adapter to hook up my fuel pressure gauge.
As it is right now, it starts reasonably well (it's in the 20's here at night). It runs rough until the temp gauge gets to the top of the little thermometer symbol, then it runs better. The turbo sounds like it's operating as expected, nothing weird. Cold it has a rough idle and poor throttle response. Warm it idles well, with an intermittent light "shudder" .
The weirdest thing I find is the fuel pedal, when I rev it up warm, it won't come back to idle right away, takes 10-20 seconds. It also does this shifting. It does not rev up on it's own, and it will stick at any RPM. I did not find a value for TPS on my datastream on my scan tool (Auto Xray Tech scan 7000). When I let off the throttle the IPR and HPOP pressure drop. The truck was hardly driven for the last 7 years (6000 miles).
I have added some Archoil 9100, that smoothed out the warm operation even more, it drives perfectly down the road (300 miles the other day). I sent the FICM (the guys on the other forum insisted my problem sounds like the logic side of the FICM) to Ed, got it back, no change. I took a peek at the IPR, it is shiny and clean, the connector is tight and free of oil.
I removed and inspected the throttle pedal, it's seems clean and operational. It only has the cylinder contrib codes cold, and it is usually only one cylinder, that cylinder changes, first it was 8 a couple of times, then 3, then 2, now 7. Which injector could be bad and there is no smoke.
I guess the biggie here is to get the throttle to stop sticking. It runs better everyday, but the sticking could be dangerous. The rough running cold cold just be this engines normal. The light shudder at idle goes in 3-5 second increments- light shudder-smooth-light shudder-smooth...