Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Low Idle Between 600 And 800 RPMs And Vibration In Drive Or Reverse

I think I resolved the idle issue on my 2009 Corolla S with 82,500 miles and Automatic Transmission.

Symptoms:
Idled at between 600 and 800 rpms
Annoying vibration in drive and reverse, no vibration in park or neutral
On hard stops, the engine felt like it was going to die
Turning on the a/c would cause the idle to increase to 1000 rpms and the vibration would go away.

At 82,500 miles, I cleaned the throttle body which was extremely dirty.

Process:
Disconnect the positive battery cable
Remove the top of the air box and flex duct going to the throttle body
Disconnect the two coolant lines going to the throttle body, make sure and have a few old bolts to plug the lines so you do not lose too much coolant
Remove the electrical connector to the throttle body
Remove the vacumn line to the valve cover
Remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts (10mm) securing the throttle body to the intake.
The throttle body does not have a gasket, it is an o-ring which should be fine.
Once you have the throttle body off of the engine, clean it thoroughly with Chemtool throttle body cleaner.
The inside of the throttle body and throttle plate should look like shiny milled aluminum. when done.
Spray chemtool into the two ports where the antifreeze lines were connected. If possible use compressed air to blow out these ports.
Clean the inside of the intake and the mesh screen where the throttle body bolts to the intake.
Reassemble, connect the battery, crank the engine and just let it idle for a good 10 minutes

The 2009 Corolla S DOES NOT have a serviceable IAC. It is riveted on to the throttle body. This is why it is important to spray the cleaner in the antifreeze ports in order to clean it. These ports are the antifreeze bypass ports.

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Camry 2012+ :: Shifting From Reverse To Drive

Whats the right way to shift the car, when I reverse the car and want to change it drive D, should car be at complete stop OR we can still change it from R to P with with car slowly moving back. I usually apply brake, and let it complete stop, then change the gear shifter. But yesterday I was in hurry and didn't wait for the stop, car was very slow, but I didn't notice any jerks or anything wrong with it.

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I recently bought a 2014 4-cylinder SE, sight unseen. I test drove another 4-cylinder SE that I recall idled smoothly before I bought mine - or at least I did not notice it, but this one was a trade from another lot and had all of the options that I wanted.

So - is it "normal" for the 4-cylinder Camrys to idle very rough with or without the A/C on, and in drive? I have tried a tank of 87, and a tank of 93 octane. Very small difference in smoothness on 93 octane, but I'd prefer not to have to run that. I owned a 4-cylinder 2008 Chevrolet Malibu before this car, and it idled much smoother than this Camry.

I also have a weird grind that sounds like the starter isn't disengaging when I start the car in the mornings. Push-button start on my car, so it isn't me turning the key too long or anything of that sort.

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As outlined in this thread: [URL] .....

I had a recent misfire issue. Unfortunately the dealer has been unable to find the source. Since the original misfire I can feel the car vibrating when I am in drive or reverse and am stopped with the brake applied (ex - waiting at a stop light). It goes away when I drive and when I am in neutral. I realize there is SOME vibration noticeable in gear, possibly because of the way the engine is mounted. However, this seems different.

The tach stays at 750 rpm in idle (it may fluctuate a TINY bit but never goes over 800 at idle) as always. The vibration feels much like a vibration one would feel if a cell phone or pager were left on vibrate. This doesn't seem to be a rough idle where the car is "jittery" or "jerks", and, as mentioned, the rpm doesn't change.

I would think a bad coilpack or plug (plugs changed at 40K, Im now at 45k) would cause a misfire, and a CEL. I've looked into a throttle body cleaning and will do this, but I would think that would cause a rough idle as well. My understanding is that a MAF problem would be similar.

The only thing I can think of is a motor or tranny mount issue, but the car only has 45k miles and this problem was non existent until the misfire. Im almost certain it isn't related to having the car lowered recently.

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I've changed the plugs, changed the IAC valve, and cleaned the MAF sensor a couple of times, with no improvement. We almost exclusively use Exxon or Chevron gas, which should have good fuel-injector cleaning additives, so I sort of doubt the injectors are at fault. I've had a local mechanic check to see if any codes exist, but nothing shows up. This has gone on for 2 or 3 years, but it was not like this when the car was newer.

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I was wondering if it could be the throttle position sensor, or maybe a broken motor mount, but I haven't had a chance to look into it it. I did replace the purge control valve last week, which slightly improved the vibrations.

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Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2012 GL Jerking Whenever Switch The Gear From Park To Drive Or Reverse / Neutral

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I'm not sure if this is normal, but I have noticed a slight vibration in the steering wheel. This happens when the engine is completely warmed up and If I'm sitting at a complete stop in drive (no air conditioning, seat warmers, or headlights on) it happens. It is not a vibration where the idle goes up and down. The rpm gauge shows that it is between a consistent 550-600 rpms. When the headlights or air is on, the idle goes to around 700-750 and the steering wheel vibrations go away. I do not have any cel on and I know the car is not miss firing. I think it's just because the low idle.

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Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2012 - Tap Clunk Type Noise When Shift The Auto Trans Into Drive And Reverse

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What else could possible go kaput when I re & re hub/bearings? And what a long ugly job to replace those bearings. Don't even think about doing this without a good hydraulic press. Up to the point of getting knuckle off, it was easy job.

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Here's a brief video: [URL] .....

The conditions when the noise appears are as follows:

Start car, turn AC on, place into drive/reverse. Rattle is present initially, then goes away after driving a bit.

The noise seems to be worse after the car has been sitting overnight.

If car is started and placed in drive/reverse without turning on the AC, then the noise is not present.

If the car is started and the AC turned on and the car is in park/neutral, then the noise is not present.

The tensioner pulley seems to be moving quite a bit in the video. Is this normal?

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