Subaru - Forester :: Rough Starting - Engine Is Misfiring
I've 2005 Subaru Forester automatic with 2.5L engine. It ran fine since I purchased it in 2005. However for the last 3 months it is behaving strangely. When it sits in the garage for 2 days or longer, it starts up very rough. It feels like the engine is misfiring. If I let it run for 10 to 15 minutes, it is back to normal!! The car has 80,000 miles. It was tuned up at 61,000 miles. I recently had a diagnostic check done. It showed no problems.
View 1 RepliesSubaru - Forester :: 2006 - Shifting Extremely Hard When Engine Is Cold
For longer than I'd like to reveal, my Forester has shifted extremely hard. This happens only when the engine is cold and disappears entirely once it heats up. Also, the RPMs go high just before the shift. When it does shift, it feels as if the engine is going to self-destruct from the sound and rough feeling --as if the entire engine or at least some part of it were going to fall to the ground. After it shifts, it feels as if the car shoots forward like a rocket. The Subaru dealer changed the transmission fluid and reset the computer. The problem persists.
View 1 RepliesSubaru - Forester :: A/C Doesn't Blow Cold Air Out Of Vents
So, I purchased a 2004 Subaru forester at the in of 2013, from a private seller. When I turn on the a/c the air is warm, I thought maybe the refrigerant so low, so I check the level and it is good, the a/c compressor clutch engages, but warm air still comes out of the vents. I am asking what else could cause the a/c to blow warm air?
View 1 RepliesSubaru - Forester :: 2003 Won't Start (second Time) In The Cold
With the very cold weather I'm having problems getting my car to start again after it's been running a while--starts okay initially no matter the temp, run it for ~15 minutes then go to my first work stop. One hour later sitting outside in 0F and I can't get it to start, won't turn over. Just got a new battery, had the spark plugs/starter/fuel line checked "looks okay". Starts after it gets really cold again, needs to sit out for a few hours in the single or negative digits. Dealer is 100 miles away and I have not been happy with the service there.
View 1 RepliesSubaru - Forester :: Fan Stop Blowing Cold Air And Car Was Smoking?
So I am trying to figure out where my AC system has failed in my car.
The back story is: While I was on a road trip down to southern Utah in the middle of summer (you know, painfully hot desert area), my whole AC system felt the need to blow up in my face.
It all started when I pulled over for gas and noticed a giant puddle of water under my car. Then when I got back on the road, the system was still blowing air, but it was no longer cold (yes the AC was still on). A few miles later the fan stopped blowing all together. Then windows down, riding through the desert, a passerby shouted through my window that my car was smoking, I pulled over to find my AC compressor belt lying on the road under my car.
Now I would love to repair it but I don't know where to start. I have replaced the fuses to no avail (at least the interior ones labeled "blower", but they also seemed to be intact upon a visual inspection).
I have noticed that while on the highway the vents will produce air (not blow it though) of the temperature the gauge is set on (I assume that matters). Also, the AC button under the vent control (air speed) does not appear to light up.
Subaru - Forester :: 1998 - Rough Running / One Cylinder Has No Compression
will it hurt my 98' forester to drive it when one cylinder has no compression? They tell me it needs a valve job for 2,500. They already put a mass air flow sensor in, and replaced plugs and wires. Still got the miss, but I need the vehicle.
View 2 RepliesSubaru - Forester :: Exhaust / Fuel Smell In Cab In Cold Weather
Having problem with an exhaust or fuel smell in the cab? i have had the exhaust checked & the seal on the back door, all have been fine. it has only happened in the really, really cold weather.
View 30 RepliesSubaru - Forester :: 2010 - Brake Light Stays On When Car Is Cold
OK, so I have a 2010 Subee, 36K miles. Three events here, added in car monitoring from State Farm for Ins Discount, had a nail in back tire which I had repaired, it's been pretty cold at night here in GA. When I start the car, both the cold engine and the brake light are lit. Cold engine normal, takes it a few minutes then it goes out. Brake light is staying on until the car drives a bit (maybe 10 minutes?). No odd brake noises, brakes feel fine, emergency brake fully released. Recently had fluids checked and oil changed at Jiffy Lube. Have had the car for 3 years, this is new. It didn't do it last winter. So - do I need to go to the dealership? A brake place? Check the brake fluid.
View 3 RepliesSubaru - Forester :: 2003 - Gas / Exhaust Smell In Cold Weather
When the weather gets really cold (below 30) I intermittently smell a gas/exhaust smell in the cabin but also on the exterior. I have on two occasions had my mechanic check this and each time he has replaced an "old and cracked" hose.
He has to use the smoke tracer to find where it is leaking and replacing hose. On both occasions he urged me to make the repair immediately as it could be extremely dangerous. (Makes sense if I am smelling gas.)
I am wondering if this could be an exhaust/heating system problem. The car is 11 years old with 120K miles and I want to keep it running a few more years. I am due for front brakes and new tires soon...
Subaru - Forester :: 2015 - Bumpy Ride Only On Slightly Rough Roads
I bought a 2015 Subaru Forester. Our test ride was on a smooth road. After buying the car, I noticed how bumpy the ride is on only slightly rough roads. Also the paint has some cracks near the door edges. Have a 2015 Subaru Forester and noticed the bumpy ride.
View 9 RepliesSubaru - Forester :: 2004 - Loud Grinding From Right Rear In Cold Weather
I have a 2004 Subaru Forest with 181K. I have a grinding that is loud and worsening in the cold weather coming from the right rear of my car. Is this a CV Joint or a bearing issue? It is far more noticeable at low speed that high with the radio on.
View 7 RepliesSubaru - Forester :: 2006 - AC Doesn't Blow Super Cold Air When Running
I have an 06 subaru forester with a little over 130k miles on it. The AC has now become intermittent and when running doesn't blow super cold air. I had it recharged but that didn't fix the problem. What happens is that it will run fine for like 15-20 minutes or if not hot. The clutch will start by attaching very firmly but then suddenly for no reason will disengage. It is not slipping the belt at all. I dont think that it is a matter of too much air gap because when it grabs it does so very firmly. Also when they were charging it i noticed that the for a moment it was kicking on and off rapidly and then he did something that looked as though he might have released some and it stayed more constant?
View 1 RepliesSubaru - Forester :: 2011 - Grinding Noise When Try To Engage 2nd Gear In Cold
I have a brand new (2 months old) 2011 Subaru Forester 2.5x that has a 4 cyl engine and a 5 speed manual transmission. This past week it's been cold here in New Hampshire and in the morning when I first drive the car, I have trouble shifting from 1st to second gear. When I shift from 1st to 2nd, I hear/feel some grinding noise as I try to engage 2nd gear. This only seems to happen when the car has been sitting around in the cold for a long period of time. Our garage has been cold (34 deg this AM) for the past week and when I drive out of our driveway and on our street I encounter this problem.
Normally, this problem only happens the first time you shift out of first and into 2nd. However, the other day, when it was very cold (5 degrees out) it happened several times as I drove down the street. After it happened the first time that morning, I stopped the car and drove from a dead stop, shifting from 1st to 2nd. I had problems 3 or 4 times trying to shift to 2nd. I ended up double clutching the car to avoid making the grinding sound. I took the car to the dealer. The couldn't repeat it but I didn't expect it to, because the car was warmed up and it was warmer during the day (low 30's by the time I got to the dealer that afternoon). The mechanic changed the transmission oil and checked the magnet in the pan to see if there were any metal pieces. He did not find any metal pieces. That was two days ago.
Unfortunately, every morning since then the car has had the same problem. Once the transmission has been warmed up it runs flawlessly and I have no problems shifting. I've made sure I am fully depressing the clutch for each shift. The past few days I've been taking the car out on an early morning test run and like clockwork, it has problems on the first shift into second, and it usually works fine after that. I have an appointment next week to leave the car with the dealer overnight. They will test drive it to see if they can reproduce the problem. What might be wrong? I have a workaround solution to avoid grinding the gears. I simply double clutch shift into 2nd for the first few times that I shift after the car has been sitting in the cold for a while. However, this is less than ideal for a brand new car.
Subaru - Forester :: A/C Blows Freezing Cold Air Idling / At A Stop Light
My Forester blows freezing cold air sitting in the driveway idling or at a stop light. As soon as you get out on the highway, it blows about 10-15 seconds of cold air and then 10-15 second of warm air. On a really hot day it is borderline uncomfortable. Already had the freon checked and it is fine. What this could be? I've searched all over the internet for people having a similar problem, but everyone else who has intermittent A/C has like ten minutes of cold and then it blows warm until they stop.
View 11 RepliesBuick - Regal :: Rough Idles And Misfires On Cold Starts
1991 Regal, 3800 v6.
So here's an interesting observation. When i turn the ignition to ON, I hear no sound nor feel any vibration from the fuel pump. Is there any scenario where a fuel pump fails to prime yet kicks into gear after a start? So, I've got rough idles and misfires on cold starts. Before I start replacing parts my diagnostic plans is as follows:
Remove and inspect spark plugs.
Inspect and test starter coil/distributor (still have to research how to do this)
Test resistance on fuel injectors.
Test pressure drop on fuel rails.
Test compression for possible small head leak.
I'm wondering, if I do have a tiny head leak that is letting in a drip or two of coolant after hours of the engine sitting, will I be able to see this on the gauge doing a compression test? I've never done one before and still need to buy a gauge, but maybe I'm better off just doing the other tests and if they all check out I can be certain it is a minor head leak.
My assumption is that I have a leaking injector; just trying to do things the proper way.
Subaru - Legacy :: Slight Rough Running With Cold Engine And Stumble Below 2000 Rpm / CEL Misfire Code
I have had some slight rough running with a cold engine and stumble <2000rpm. Finally it tripped a CEL which was read as a misfire code.
The mechanic swapped the coil and plug(recent) and no change. He did a compression test and air blew out the exhaust. So.......the car needs a valve job which entails motor removal and fixing the head and reinstall. He rough estimates this at $2000 and rate is $65/hr.
He mentioned looking at pistons and may be a bit more if rough.
This car well maintained (170,000 miles 2005 Legacy turbo wagon with manual)...
Subaru - Forester :: 2012 Auto Transmission Jerky - Sluggish Acceleration And Rough Start
I purchased a 2012 Subaru Forester 2.5X Premium (automatic transmission) in November 2011 with 4 miles on it. Since the get-go it has had issues, but we thought that some of them might work themselves out as we broke the car in (which we were religious about). At the first oil change, we told the dealership about the issues we were experiencing and got the expected "the computer doesn't say anything is wrong" and "we couldn't replicate the problems" excuses. We were told to bring it back if the problems continued. Well, they've gotten worse. Here are what we are experiencing:
- Erratic shifting. I commute from the mountains to the city every day, so I need power from the car. Sometimes, when I'm heading down a hill and I tap the gas slightly to give myself a little boost, the car will suddenly downshift, even though it was sitting at 2500 RPM and didn't need to get any extra power beyond more fuel. Going up the hill is worse, as if you are not actively accelerating (including if you are trying to maintain a constant speed), it will upshift on you and you lose all power, so it will need to downshift to make up for this. It does this constantly for the entire drive home. Everyone who has driven this car in the mountains has experienced this.
- Jerky transmission. When the car shifts, it is super harsh and tends to throw you forward or back. Even when on flat ground it shifts roughly.
- Sluggish acceleration. If I give the car any more gas than I usually do, it hesitates before going anywhere. One day I needed to get over on the highway fast and floored it - it took the car about 2 seconds to respond. Then, yesterday, we were turning on to a highway from a side road and I tried to accelerate (gas about 1/2 way to the floor) and it didn't respond at all for about 5 seconds and the "Check Engine" and the traction control lights started flashing at me. We were on a paved road with no gravel, water, ice, etc and the traction control light began flashing on the straight, not while we were turning. There are also days when it feels like there is an anchor tied to the car and it just doesn't want to give me any umph at all.
- Rough starts. This is the really weird one as there is no rhyme or reason as to when it happens. Some times it takes the car several revolutions to turn over. Oddly, it's never on the really cold (under 20 degrees F) days, but it has happened when it is ~35 degrees and a couple of times when I have started it in the middle of the day to grab lunch and it is ~65 degrees out.
- Running rough. This usually happens after a rough start, but can also happen at other times. It just idles very rough and won't calm down. These are the days I have the worst time with the shifting issues.
I had a 2001 Forester that threw a rod, which forced me to get this car. Everyone who has driven both agrees that the 2001 was quicker, easier to drive, and had more gumption than the 2012. It also had less problems even though I purchased it used in 2005 (until the whole rod-throwing thing, of course). I really want to love my 2012 Forester, but I am so upset that, for the first time in my life I have a new car, and it runs terribly.
Tiguan :: Running Rough During A Cold Start / Random Cylinder Misfires
I've got a 2009 Tiguan with 65k miles on it. A few weeks ago I noticed some issues with running rough during a cold start. I only noticed because the engine would vibrate considerably more than usually for the first few minutes of operation, and would idle at around 1050-1100rpm instead of the usual 750rpm. After warm up, things were fine. Suddenly the issue got bad real fast - wife was out and the MIL light came on, EPC light came on, and the car was running extremely rough. We managed to drive it home (2 miles) doing under 20 the whole time on side streets. Once I hooked it up to my OBD reader, I was seeing cylinder misfire codes on all four cylinders.. P0300, P0301..P0304, all five codes simultaneously.
Since the car was due for an oil change and hit 65k miles recently, I decided to throw new plugs in there to see if that would work. It did, at first.. A day or two it ran completely fine, no rough starts, no misfires, I thought I had solved the problem. The old plugs had some deposits on them and were original, so I thought I was in the clear. Two days later, same thing happened again.. EPC light, barely running and misfires on all four cylinders..
I read up some online and decided to order new ignition coils. Took a few days, but I got four new coils and threw them in. Again, problem solved it seemed. No more EPC light, misfire codes didn't come back and no more rough starts. I drove a good 40 miles with no problems at various speeds, but started noticing some misfires during acceleration (slightly rough acceleration, almost feels like a back and forth rocking motion, very slight). Sure enough, after a cold start I'm seeing the engine run a bit rough again with misfires. This time, only P0304 (misfire on cylinder 4) is thrown, and it only shows up as a "pending code" (engine light flashes for a few moments during start, but does not stay on).
I checked my connections, swapped the plugs and coils in what I thought were cylinders 3 and 4 (closer to the driver side), nothing. I swapped what I think are cylinder 1 and 2 (passenger side) just to be sure, but still nothing. At this point I'm pretty lost. I know enough to be dangerous with a carbureted engine, but am lacking in knowledge when it comes to a fuel injected turbo charged VW engine. It seems to be cylinder 4 misfiring consistently at this point according to the OBD reader.
Also of note.. I had some misfire problems last year, and had my intake manifold replaced as part of a recall (also had carbon deposits removed at the same time). Can a carbon build up occur this fast? Can it be the injectors?
Subaru - Forester :: Jerks / Lurches And Makes A Loud Noise When Shifting On Cold Start
I have a 2006 Subaru Forester automatic with about 40,000 miles on it. When it gets cold out, I notice that when I first start driving the car, it jerks/lurches and makes a loud noise when shifting from first to second and second to third. When the car warms up after driving for awhile, it doesn't do it anymore. It's much colder here (high today of zero), the car is doing this much more often. I brought it to the dealer and they completely flushed the transmission fluid (which they said looked yellow instead of red/orange??), but it is still making the noise and having trouble shifting in the cold. They said need to take the transmission apart, so I've been leary about taking it back. My husband thinks I should just drive it until it dies and then get a new transmission if needed.
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