Subaru - Forester :: 2011 - Rattle At Start Of Acceleration
My 2011 Forester makes a rattle sound each time I accelerate either uphill or on level ground. The sound is reminiscent of the pinging sound from cars from years ago when we were told to use a higher octane gas. It's only at the start of the acceleration, not continuous. The sound seems to come from below the car, either under the hood or under the body, not inside the passenger compartment. Most websites say loose heat guards, but this would mean I'd hear the rattle throughout the acceleration, wouldn't it? Brought It to the dealer twice and they couldn't hear anything. No surprise. I hear it with my 2013 Legacy also.
View 1 RepliesCamry :: 2011 Auto Transmission Model - Cold Start Low Acceleration
I'm having a problem with acceleration on cold start. It's an auto transmission model. Car always hesitate and jerks a bit before accelerating. Also acceleration is slow.
View 2 RepliesFord Aerostar :: 1995 - Rough Idle / Jerky Acceleration
Symptoms: (162K miles, last tune up about 70K miles ago) rough idle, and poor acceleration. Occasionally, the car really jerks while accelerating. I read about new plugs/wires, and something called seafoam. I think the highway patrol would pull me over as a gross polluter, but that too seems worth a try. Various sensors and hoses, I'm frankly overwhelmed. Where to start?
Something I learned today: My car was made in 10/95. Apparently, I can scan for trouble codes?!? How and where? Is it OBD I or II or something else? Dumb question: I can't even get the interior engine shroud off. I found three clamps, but it still hangs up near the top. What am I missing?
Subaru - Forester :: Shuddering During Acceleration - PO420 Code
I purchased a 2001 Subaru Forester about 4 years ago. Within 48 hours of buying it from a dealer, the check engine light came on showing the PO420 code. The car was running fine without any problems and it was suggested to us by 2 independent mechanics that Subaru is notorious for throwing this code, so we didn't investigate it any farther besides doing a fuel system clean/flush that was offered to us by the dealer.
Lately, the car has started sort of shuddering during acceleration so we figure it's time to look into this more, but just trying to figure out where to start. From what I understand, this model has 2 catalytic converters and 2-3 O2 sensors. I've been reading as much as I can on the topic and watching videos trying to figure out our options and whether we should try replacing the O2 sensors first or just go for replacing the whole shebang. I know we cannot afford the pricey repair of it all right now so the car will have to sit for quite some time before we can do that; however, if we can figure out how to do it ourselves, we could get it done much sooner.
My questions are:What is the likelihood that this could still be an O2 sensor issue considering the shuddering when accelerating?
What other signs do I look for besides rattling in the cats to know they might be bad?
Prius (Gen 3) :: 2012 - Jerky Acceleration From A Complete Stop In Summer Heat
My 2012 Prius Two did something odd today that it's never done before. Today, after leaving a meeting, I had two instances where accelerating from a complete stop was met with a delay followed by a jerky and sudden acceleration. This only happened twice out of the dozen-or-so complete stops I made. This only happened on my first couple of complete stops, then never did it again.
Here is some pertinent information:
- Silver Prius, no tint
- Car sat uncovered for about 2.5 hours
- Was 96 degrees outside, not a cloud for miles
- Turned the car on, opened the front two windows for hot air escape
- Turned the AC on to full
- Sat parked but car running for maybe 30 seconds before reversing out of parking spot
- Rolled up windows
- Battery fan was going strong
- No indicator lights came on to suggest an issue
- Happened on my first two complete stops at stop signs
- Never happened again
- Battery fan eventually simmered down
- Have 55,000 miles on the car
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Engine Is Running Rough (jerky On Acceleration) Especially When Driving
I have a 1999 F250 SD V10 4x4. I recently had a transmission installed and the truck is running erratic. I have an engine miss (sometimes when idling, more so when in drive and foot on the brake). I say sometimes because there are times it will not miss and the engine runs smooth. The transmission shifts a little strange and sometimes hard.
I am getting a code reading that says my TPS is faulty, but I installed a new one a few months back.
The engine is running rough (jerky on acceleration) especially when driving. I was wondering if I should take it to a shop and have them flash the computer to reset it?
I also remove the AC compressor a while back (bad clutch). I installed an aftermarket pulley.
Subaru - Forester :: Rough Starting - Engine Is Misfiring
I've 2005 Subaru Forester automatic with 2.5L engine. It ran fine since I purchased it in 2005. However for the last 3 months it is behaving strangely. When it sits in the garage for 2 days or longer, it starts up very rough. It feels like the engine is misfiring. If I let it run for 10 to 15 minutes, it is back to normal!! The car has 80,000 miles. It was tuned up at 61,000 miles. I recently had a diagnostic check done. It showed no problems.
View 1 RepliesSubaru - Forester :: 2012 - Rain Is Leaking
I purchased a 2012 Subaru Forester on May 15th, and now have a leak issue after heavy rains. I've brought the car into the dealer twice now (three times if you count having to bring it in the day after purchase to have a dial fixed) and they're saying they can't find or recreate the issue even after running a hose on it, and I'm extremely concerned and frustrated (honestly regretting buying the car at this point, though I do love it).
Both times I have noticed this happen, the car has been parked in torrential downpours either all day at work or overnight at home, and rain somehow seeps in and collects somewhere inside above the driver’s side, where it sits until I drive the car. It does not leak until the car moves - water does not leak to my knowledge when the car is parked.
Once the car moves from a parked position and I take a right turn, the water dumps out in about 1-3 occurrences onto my left foot (not a constant flow or predictable dump) – the water does not leak until the car is in motion and has turned right.
The dealer says they think the heat shield may be missing a grommet or something along those lines, but I don't know why they aren't able to check this to see if that's the case and fix it. They claim that they've only seen something like this once before, and it fixed itself (in other words, the person never came back after the first occurrence). It's happened to me twice now, and I know it's going to happen again, and I can't keep bringing it back over and over (and don't think I should have to).
Subaru - Forester :: 1998 - Rough Running / One Cylinder Has No Compression
will it hurt my 98' forester to drive it when one cylinder has no compression? They tell me it needs a valve job for 2,500. They already put a mass air flow sensor in, and replaced plugs and wires. Still got the miss, but I need the vehicle.
View 2 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: 2012 TDI Transmission Jerky While Driving
So I've got 8400 miles on my TDI, and for quite some time now, I've been intermittently noticing the car somewhat jerky while driving. Jerky to a small extent, like the DSG can't make up it's mind as to the gear. I could be driving home at 45 or so, and I'll randomly feel a slight bump through the pedal when I'm on a flat road. I've gotten this quite a bit. Obviously I expect to feel the DSG shifting when I'm flat out gunning it, but not when I'm maintaining a speed and should hypothetically be in the same gear that entire time.
View 16 RepliesGrand Prix :: Sluggish Acceleration And Little Power - Car Rough Idling
I have encountered a problem with my car engine. I noticed the car was not putting out enough power. When I press on the gas pedal aka accelerator the car drives real slow or sluggish; it seems like there's something clogged. I recently replaced the alternator which was draining the car battery. Since then the car starts up without any problem. I assumed its the EGR valve. The original EGR valve was quite carboned up but the used one from the junk yard didn't do much justice to the problem.
Additionally, the car is rough idling which I believe was due to bad gasoline.
Catalytic converter was struck by curb and heat shield was damage. Everything seems to be intact!
2000 Pontiac Grand Prix SE 136km+
Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Transmission Intermittently Shifts Very Rough And Jerky
Car intermittently shifts very rough and jerky. Just took on a long vacation trip and every AM when it was cold it shifted hard them smoothed out once warmed up. Got home and now it is doing it all the time. Dealer said do the trans flush...I did it and it made no difference. Is this a common problem with this model? Mileage is 39,800...not sure I want to buy this car at lease end.
View 15 RepliesSubaru - Forester :: Standard Transmission Not Going Into Reverse
Sometimes the Subaru standard transmission just does not want to go into reverse. I don't see a pattern here, but when it happens I have to double clutch it, or hold the clutch peddle down and move from first to reverse.
View 3 RepliesSubaru - Forester :: Engine Oil Filter On Transmission
After having changed the oil in my 04 Forester multiple times, I must have lost my mind and drained the transmission fluid. I realized this when I started it back up and it wouldn't move. Clearly I put an oil filter on with engine oil around the seal. Should I do a tranny flush or can I just replace filter (with correct one) and fill with tranny fluid?
View 16 RepliesSubaru - Forester :: Rough Engine - Power Is Low / Surges And Misfires When Cold
We're talking about a 2002 Subaru Forester with only 80,000 miles on it.
This winter, the cold seems to have taken its toll. The fuel economy is bouncing around between 16 and 24 MPG and the car runs a bit roughly. Especially when it's colder (<30 F) there is often a lack of power/RPM when depressing the gas pedal. The problem is worst in city driving, but exists on the highway also. It doesn't go away during my 15-20 minute commute. For a period of a couple weeks, it was even easy to induce misfires (I think that's what they were; quiet pffft pffft pffft sounds during severe lack of power) by fully depressing the gas. But even if you half-depress and hold the pedal steady, the car will accelerate weakly and then sometimes surge forward. Other times it seems to be idling strong and running rich. Now that it's warmer (>40 F) the problem has lessened, but I've also started feeding it 93 octane gas and the car feels rougher than normal.
A year or two ago, I replaced the front oxygen sensor and spark plugs (prior to problem). This winter, I took it to a mechanic who couldn't explain the problem and replaced the spark plug wires.
Based on my reading, it seems like the only other most likely culprit is the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor that's mounted on the intake manifold. I haven't worked up the effort (and can't find my multimeter) to do an electrical test of the MAP sensor's output itself. I'm also not keen on just buying a $270 part without sound evidence, nor paying for ill-informed guessing by lesser mechanics (than yourselves, of course!). I also have a sneaking suspicion that the automatic transmission could be slipping -- when I drive with 2 adults and two kids in the car up a hill, it seems more underpowered than days of old.
Subaru - Forester :: 2015 - Bumpy Ride Only On Slightly Rough Roads
I bought a 2015 Subaru Forester. Our test ride was on a smooth road. After buying the car, I noticed how bumpy the ride is on only slightly rough roads. Also the paint has some cracks near the door edges. Have a 2015 Subaru Forester and noticed the bumpy ride.
View 9 RepliesSubaru - Acceleration - Noises :: 2009 - Forester Generating High Pitch Whistles When Gas Pedal Is Pressed
Right before Xmas our 09 Forester was hit while parked on the street. The whole front end of our car got wrecked. Was still driveable but we needed a new radiator, AC compressor, fenders, bumper, hood, lights, etc...over 5K worth of work.
As soon as we picked it up we noticed that when you press on the gas the car makes a high pitched whistling noise, almost like the noise when you'd try to tune in an old transistor radio. It only happens when the car is driving and the gas is pressed, not when parked or in neutral.
I know we should have probably brought it right back to the shop that day but I really did not like the shop at all and they are not at all convenient to where I live. I've read it could be a loose cat converter. I checked the air intake housing and that is secure.
Subaru - Forester :: Engine Oil In The Automatic Transmission Line
A significant amount of engine oil was added to my automatic transmission line. I drove the car (2010 subaru forester) for about 10,000 miles. I noticed the transmission slipping. I brought it to the dealer. They found the engine oil in the transmission, flushed and replaced the fluid. The question is How badly is my transmission damage. The warrenty is now voided and I am afraid that I will need a new transmission fairly soon.
View 4 RepliesSubaru - Forester :: 2009 - Transmission Started Hiccuping?
I have a 09 Subaru Forester (automatic) with 56,300 miles on it. Within the last 100 miles, the transmission has started 'hiccuping' as it changes gears. Also, when the car is cold and first started up, as I drive the rpms rise to around 3k when switching gears; sometimes holding there for anywhere from 3 seconds to 12 seconds before finally changing gears. As the car warms up, this problem disappears, but the 'hiccuping' continues. I took it to the dealer and they flushed out the transmission fluid, but problem still persists. I called the dealership asking for a new transmission because it is still under warranty, but they refused. They are going to check pan for metal shavings, and if they're present then they'll replace trans. If not, then they will replace other parts until problem is fixed.
Also, another important question: If I had the transmission fluid replaced, would it be possible that they may have cleaned out any metal shavings, and when they check 100 miles later, there wouldn't be any? I'm worried that I'm going to get screwed because they eliminated any metal shavings and when they go to look again none will be there because there hasn't been enough mileage put on the car to make them appear again. I do not know enough about cars to know if this is even a possibility. They refuse to honor the warranty until they go through a checklist of possible repairs, and I'm nervous that list will run out when I hit 61,000 miles and warranty runs out.