Mitsubishi - Lancer :: Foot Slipped Off Clutch In Gear 3
Wondering if this would cause any wear to the clutch or anything but was in gear 3 about to upshift but my foot slipped off the clutch and the car didnt jerk the rpms just went back to where they were. Curious if that would do anything
View 6 RepliesMitsubishi - Lancer :: When Shifted Into 2nd Gear, Pressed Clutch Down While Driving
So when I shifted into 2nd gear as I was putting my foot on the leg rest beside the clutch by accident my foot tapped it for a second and it went down a bit. I didn't smell any burning clutch and don't recall the rpms going up. Is this a problem that a did that I am scared....
View 2 RepliesMitsubishi - Lancer :: Released Clutch Too Fast And Car Jumped But Not Turn Off
Last night when I turned my car on (cold engine start so let it warm up) and by accident when i was starting off on 1st i released the clutch to fast and not adding much gas causing the rpms to drop down and the car jumped and not sure if it shut off cause when it turns on it beeps once due to my tpms needing service and i heard the same beep but instead of shutting off the rpms jumped to 2k as if i was revving the engine and i began driving. What gives?
View 4 RepliesThunderbird :: Slave Or Master Cylinder In Clutch System Bleeding Air Out
I'm having trouble bleeding the air out of my slave cylinder or master cylinder in my clutch system. I've been trying for a couple days now is there a trick to this?
View 7 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Clutch Fork Won't Move So That The Slave Cylinder Can Slide In
So I took my tranny off to fix a broken dog bone mount bolt problem. I am now in the process of putting it back on. I raised the tranny bolted all the bolts on had everything almost back together and I went to put my slave cylinder in and the clutch fork won't move so that the slave cylinder can slide in. Did I maybe put the clutch fork in wrong? pretty positive I put it back in as it was and slide the clip through the hole and everything.
View 11 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 - Slave Cylinder Went Out / Clutch Replacement
1994 Ranger 4.0 XLT 4X4. My slave cylinder went out so I thought I would put in a spec clutch in while I'm in there. What do I have to pull off to get the 5 speed tranny / transfer case down? I don't want to pull off what I don't have to but I don't want to make it hard either. No Chilton on hand and I did a search on clutch but found no thread for replacement.
View 2 RepliesCamry :: 2009 - Replacing Clutch Slave Cylinder And Manual Transmission Fluid
First of all this is also my first camry and I noticed that there is only 1 reservoir for the slave and the brakes - which is unique to cars Ive owned in the past. My question is when I remove my slave cylinder from the trans and unhook the hard lines from it would this introduce air into the brake lines since they share the same reservoir? Should I remove the brake fluid from the reservoir before I disconnect the slave? I am wondering because If i just disconnect the lines brake fluid will leak from them between the time I disconnect the old slavecyl and hook the new one up.
Also regarding the trans fluid. my le has 80,000 miles on it and I am not sure whether or not the previous owner ever changed it before. I am having a hard time finding information about how much fluid and exactly which fluid to use. All I know is that gl-4 is the safest choice, butis it ok to use red line mt-90 or amsoil MTF? I dont want to ruin the trans by putting in the wrong fluid and/or wrong quantity.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2001 - Bled Slave Cylinder Now No Clutch Pressure?
Dad has a 2001 well cared for Mazda B3000 with around 128,000 miles on it. Motor runs fine, so did the tranny up until a couple of weeks ago. The tranny needs a new clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate. It was drivable up until about four days ago.
My Dad has been working 6-7 days a week and hasn't had time to tear into the tranny. We just drained the old fluid out and put in new when it first started making the noise it makes. We have priced the parts and was just waiting for my Dad to get a weekend off to tackle the problem. But someone at work told my Dad to bleed the slave cylinder before he tore into the tranny, just to see if it would work.
Well we bled the slave cylinder just like you do brakes. But now the clutch has no pressure, it just goes to the floor. We have tried everything. My dad uses the truck to commute back and forth to work. So, I am looking for any tricks on how we can get pressure back in the clutch so he can get to work.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1987 - Clutch Slave Cylinder Not Functioning Correctly
Can contaminated or old fluid make the clutch slave cylinder not function correctly? Mine won't completely disengage the clutch after sitting for several hours or if its really cold outside. The master is new and has been bled but now the fluid looks black.
View 1 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: New Clutch Kit - Hydraulic Line Will Not Connect Into Slave Cylinder
I put a new clutch kit in my 99 f-150 with the 4.6. It came with the clutch disk,pressure plate and throw out bearing. I got the tranny back up in but now my Hydraulic line will not connect into the slave cylinder. Its still the same one that was in it.
View 1 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Doing Clutch - Slave Cylinder Removal
I'm getting ready to swap my clutch and got to looking at the slave cylinder. I read somewhere that you have to rotate and twist it to get it out? Or something else? Also after reinstalling how do you get the slave plastic piece cut that holds the rod in? Or do you just push the clutch?
View 4 RepliesAccent LC (2000-05) :: 2002 - Manual Trans Has Small Leak At Slave Cylinder For Clutch
So my accent with a manual trans has a small leak at the slave cylinder for the clutch. I am driving home and it's shifting hard. I get home pull up to where I live and push In the clutch and the car feels like the clutch is not pushed in. RPMs drop and car stalled. Look under hood and see not fluid in clutch master cylinder. Fill with fluid and pump pedal. I get some pedal back but the car will not crank. Nothing. I have accidentally cranked car when in gear in the past and there did not seem to be a safety switch as the car would move if my foot was not on brakes.
View 4 RepliesMitsubishi - Lancer :: 2004 A/C Light Won't Turn Off - Button Is Stuck
I have a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES (110,000 miles) that is working perfectly with just minor, small hiccups. A few months ago I took the temperature control console off (the giant plastic piece on the dashboard that has the ac/heater controls and knobs) to replace the wires because the fan level knob was stuck. That was successful.
However, a few weeks later the AC button is stuck on (green light on). The AC light will not turn off no matter what. I've tried to take the plastic piece apart and even unplugged the console to take a look at the actual button itself and it all seemed to be alright (im no mechanic). I've tried pushing it a hundred times, in different sequences, anything you can imagine - will not turn off. As a result, we have no heat.
Was it my fault? Did I do something? I don't know. What do you gentlemen think? I've been told that the blend door is stuck but this is a Mitsubishi and every part of it screams "Don't touch me!" so I'm slightly scared of going too far into the dashboard.
Mitsubishi - Lancer :: 2004 - Check Engine Light Coming Up Every Now And Then / Code P0421
My car's an 04 Mitsubishi Lancer ES, 4-cyl, 2.0L. So long story short, my check-engine light has been coming up every now and again for the last couple months with the code P0421, which a shop has confirmed I need a new manifold catalytic converter for (they ruled out any problems with O2 sensors).
View 2 RepliesFord F-150 (2009-2014) :: CEL Code P1450 - Unable To Bleed Up Fuel Tank Vacuum
Plugged in my SCT when I got home, P1450 code. "Unable to bleed up fuel tank vacuum" I did a search here but nothing in the 09-up section.
P1450 Error Code Excessive Fuel tank Vacuum - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans
I'm still googling but it seems I need to start by cleaning out the lines and evap which I'm not sure where its located. I'm going to get on a creeper tomorrow morning and have a peek but just wanted to see if any of my brothers ( or sisters ) here have had this issue. I just turned 35K miles.
Mitsubishi - Lancer :: 2002 - AC Won't Working - SEL / SRS Came On?
I have a 2002 Lancer with just over 150K miles. So far, he's been pretty solid. He starts when I want him to and stops when he is supposed to. Last summer his A/C started acting up a bit. When I am in stop-and-go city traffic, everything is fine. As soon as I get on the highway and am cruising at any speed for more than 15 minutes, the A/C stops blowing cold air and just blows as if I just had the fan on, but not the A/C. If I slow down and then accelerate pretty quickly and can make him shift through a few gears, the A/C will kick back in. At first I just thought I was getting some attitude from him (his name is Miles - pretty clever for a car name, huh?) because I moved him from NW Arkansas to the Gulf Coast and he didn't like the heat and wanted me to know it. I took him in for a standard oil change and had the mechanic run an A/C diagnostic. I didn't tell him of any problem I was having because I thought it might work itself out (stranger things may have happened). He told me everything looked good: good compression, blowing at 41 degrees, something else I forgot...anyway Miles passed his A/C test.
The mechanic did tell me that the battery would need to be changed soon. Well in my highly-trained mechanic mind (I have a degree in Art History; that tells you how vast my knowledge is about all things with engines), I thought, "OK, when I replace this battery, that'll give the A/C some more power and everything will be hunky dory.? Not quite. He's still having the same problem. So my next thought was that maybe a fan belt could be slipping or stretching when I'm maintaining a constant speed. Maybe? Occasionally all the backlit instruments lose their lighting. They all come back on, but it doesn't coincide with the timing of the A/C issues. The "Service Engine Soon" light has been on for a while and the "SRS" light will come on every now and again, but that doesn't jive with the A/C timing either. But, that's the story of Miles.I'd like to keep him for another 150K if possible.
Mitsubishi - Lancer :: 2005 - Missing When Try To Accelerate
I own a Mitsubishi Lancer 2005 model, From the past recent days I feel some kind of missing with the car, when we try to accelerate it. It seems to be some kind of fuel injection issues. I think doing a fuel injection service would be better. I didn't have much knowledge about car repair.
View 6 RepliesMitsubishi - Lancer :: High RPM At Highway Speeds
i have a 2004 Mitsubishi lancer es 2.0 engine, and it's an automatic. I seem to consistently get a little under 23 mpg no matter how i drive. I've noticed that when going down the highway at 65 mph, it is at like 2900 RPM, is this normal? We also own a 2010 toyota corolla 1.8 auto and it only revs like 2400, and a 2005 xB that revs the same as the corolla, i'm just confused that with a bigger engine, it would rev so much higher.
View 6 RepliesMitsubishi - Lancer :: 2002 - Electrical Circuits Malfunction
I'm really puzzled by the electrical issue I'm having with my wife's 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer. It's got a 120,000 miles and we've owned it since new. It has had almost zero problems up until this point.
The other day, my wife calls and says that her A/C isn't working, it's just blowing hot air. When she got home, she turned the car off, removed her key, and noticed that the climate control blower was running. She turned it off and went inside. She had the radio on.
When I came home, I verified that with no key in the ignition, turning on the blower motor switch did turn on the blower motor. I started the car and immediately noticed both the condenser cooling fan and the engine cooling fan both immediately started running. I turned on the A/C, got nothing but hot air, and verified that the compressor was not turning.
I turned the car off and decided to check for fuses. When I pulled the A/C fuse under the hood, I heard a loud CLICK from the A/C compressor area. When I reinserted the fuse, I received another click. I then pulled out the A/C compressor clutch relay, and heard the same click. Since I wasn't sure if it really was the A/C clutch, I asked my sister-in-law to plug in and unplug the relay while I put my hand on the compressor. She did it several times and before I could verify it was the A/C clutch...it stopped. At this point, unplugging the A/C compressor relay would not cause the click. Also, unplugging the A/C fuse would not cause the click.
I then turned on the blower motor (key still off!) and it didn't start running. I started the car, and the A/C worked fine! So I drove 50 miles back and forth to work the next day and figured it was some sort of fluke.
This morning I get a call that her battery is dead. I get home, put the charger on it, and as soon as the voltage came up a little, there was the click from the A/C clutch. Unplugging the A/C clutch relay caused another click. Relay in - click. Relay out - click. Same with the A/C fuse. Then, like before, plugging the relay or fuse back in no longer caused the click.
I do have the service manual and looking at the wiring diagram...the blower relay coil can only get power with the key in ACC or RUN. The A/C clutch is more complicated...it gets power from the SAME source - the ACC or RUN position on the ignition switch. But, ground is through the engine management computer (car is a 5-speed).
The only thing that seems to be common and could explain everything would be a bad ignition switch - the blower and A/C compressor power, plus the engine management computer all seem to be on the same contact on the ignition switch. The service manual ignition switch schematic is very confusing.
I don't want to throw parts at it...but that seems to be the only thing that makes sense?