Infiniti - I30 :: Clanking Noise In Driver Side Front Tire But Only When Turning And Accelerating
I drive a '96 Infiniti I30, and recently the driver's side front wheel has started making a mysterious noise. It's not a grinding but a clicking/clanking noise. It's only present when I'm turning and accelerating. If I let off the gas it disappears. The other strange thing is that i can feel it in the gas pedal. I looked at some other discussions and the only thing that was similar was a bad CV joint. One last thing, if it is the CV joint how soon should i get it replaced?
View 7 RepliesInfiniti - G35 :: 2003 Slows Down While Accelerating
My G35 has around 115,000 miles and it slows down when driving, particularly when driving uphill. RPMs reach 2-3 and car begins to drag with an occasional jerking. I've replaced all spark plugs (don't think I've ever replaced them since I bought the car used with 40,000 miles) and I notice one of the coil packs and its spark plug was oily, but then I also notice it was not connecting to the spark plug like the rest the rubber tip was ripped. I replaced the coil pack, but the issue still exist. I just got back from a test drive and this time it doesn't lose speed so much, but still trembles, especially when going uphill.
View 6 RepliesInfiniti :: QX4 Makes Squeaky Noise All The Time
I changed both idler pulleys (AC and Alternator) and still I hear metal-to-metal noise. If a bearing is bad on one of the other pulleys, how do I find that out and can I replace it myself?
View 1 RepliesInfiniti :: 2003 G35 - Hissing Noise When Car Is Warmed Up And Revved To Over 2k Rpm
Recently noticed a hissing noise coming from the passenger front-side of the engine compartment (alternator area). The noise only appears when the car is warmed up and revved to over 2k rpm. At that point the hissing starts and does not stop even when idling. As soon as the engine is turned off (even when warm) and re-started the noise is gone (until 2k rpms).
View 2 RepliesInfiniti - I30 :: 1999 Won't Start / Grinding Noise When Turn The Key
It was having trouble turning over for a few weeks, getting progressively worse, but we just didn't have time to look it over. Well, it finally died--now if I turn the key a couple times we got a grinding noise but mostly just nothing at all. The lights, radio, etc all turn on though so we were sure it wasn't the battery. Thinking it was the starter, we pulled that out and took it down to Advanced Auto Parts, but they ran a test on it and said it was still good. So we put that back in the car and brought them the battery instead--they tested it and said it was charging and holding voltage but not amperage, and that, that would mean the lights and things could come on but it wouldn't have enough kick to actually start the car.
So, we bought a new battery, went home, and popped it in. Still, nothing. My friend says it's not the alternator because with a fully charged battery the car would start even if the alternator wasn't right (and would just die in a couple days, at which point you'd know you needed to replace the alternator) and my car's still not starting. The last thing we tried before we gave up for the moment last night was checking fuses in the driver's side of the car and also under the hood, the handful we thought could be related to the starter, alternator, and/or battery, but they all looked good.
The only other thing I read about online with Infinitis was that if the security system was activated it wouldn't start, however, while I noticed the light for it is flashing which I'm not sure if that was normal before or not, I THINK if it is activated it would be solid red, and at any rate, I tried what I read online to unlock it (put key forward for 5 seconds, then off, repeat 2 more times, then try to start) and that didn't do anything either.
Infiniti - G35 :: Engine Noise Inside The Cabin Sounds Like Diesel
I have a 2004 G35 that has not given me many mechanical problems. However, before my last oil change, I noticed noise from my engine which I wasnt used to. After 2 days I checked the dipstick and there was almost no oil on it which greatly worried me. I put in two 10W30 bottles and got a normal oil change the next day. Its been a week now and I still hear this noise when I start my car and its idling (cant hear it while driving cuz of the normal engine/road noise). It almost sounds like a noise I would hear from my dad old 70s diesel benz's, just not as loud.
Its def mechanical but I can't figure out what it is or where exactly its coming from. Its been 10 days now since the noise first started and it doesn't seem to be going away. I just checked engine oil levels now and they are near max. When I open up the hood, I don't hear the noise ( over the normal engine/belt noise), but its very apparent once inside the car with the doors closed and windows up. I am worried my car might end up and die on me all of a sudden while on the freeway or if my transmission is going to go bad.
I30 - Infiniti :: 1996 - Loose Rattling / Clacking Noise From Front End
I recently traded in my old '96 Infiniti for this great 2001 PT Cruiser. It drives great ,,mileage is at 76K and in very good condition .. except for this. Whenever I am driving and going over minor or major bumps I get a lot of loose RATTLING, clacking noise from the front end. Obviously from the tires bouncing up and down. Is this typical for this particular PT? I remember having that in an old Jeep of mine too. Very boxy sounding in the front.
My wife and I had traded both of our cars in..2009 Versa for a 2013 Chevy Sonic--1996 infiniti for a 2001 PT Cruiser
Infiniti :: 1999 I30t Will Not Crank / Start Up - Only Clicking Noise When Turn The Key
I have am 1999 Infiniti i30t. My car will not crank/start up. When I turn the key there is only a clicking sound. But the car lights & hazard lights do work. What I think I'm hearing is the alternator when I try to start it. We have tried to jump start it, no success. Jump starting the battery got it going but it would only last about 5 minutes before it was dead again. When I turn the key there is just a clicking sound.
View 2 RepliesInfiniti :: 2008 - High Pitched Ringing Noise When Put Foot On Gas Pedal
I have an '08 Infiniti EX35. When my foot is on the gas pedal, I hear a subtle, but high-pitched ringing noise. It sounds electrical like the noise a tv would make. It's not coming from the engine. It's very annoying and only happens with the foot on the gas.
View 1 RepliesInfiniti :: 2003 - Noise Coming From Driver Front Wheel On Acceleration Occasionally
Noise occasionally comes from the driver front wheel on acceleration. Can not be duplicated when a technician looks at it.
View 3 RepliesInfiniti - G35 :: 2004 - Changed Belts / Squeaking Noise When Idling With Windows Open
I had the belts changed on my 2004 Infiniti G35 6-Speed Sedan according to the mechanics advice (they were cracked quite a bit). Now that they're changed they make an annoying squeaking noise which is particularly awful when idling with my windows open. When I took it back, he said the pulleys need to be replaced and they are already at maximum tension. They did not squeak before the replacement. Is he right? Or did he just put in a belt that's longer than it should be?
View 4 RepliesGolf IV R32 :: In Cabin Noise When Accelerating / Deep Metallic Grind Noise But Car Drives Fine?
I've been working on my car for a few weeks now and I've been doing my best to figure out. The source of this sort of 'metallic grinding' that I'm hearing within the cabin. I cant seem to pinpoint where it's coming from within the engine bay with the hood open (maybe due to the magnaflow exhaust diffusing the sound from the outside of my car). I can easily hear noise when I'm inside however with indications its coming from the lower central area of the engine bay. I drive an '04 Volkwagen GTI 1.8T
In the days I've been working on it I've replaced the:
1. Timing Belt (and tensioner pulley/tensioner dampener)
2. Water Pump
3. Serpentine Belt
4. Thermostat (and housing)
5. Clutch disk and flywheel (from a SMF to a LUK DMF clutch)
6. CV Axles (both drivers and passengers)
7. Clutch Cylinder Slave
8. Wheel Bearings (front left and right)
9. Rotors (Front Left and Right)
Diagnosis**
The car starts without any problems just as it use to prior to the replacements done. BUT it's once I get the car moving where I begin accelerating I start to hear a dull grinding noise/rumble that becomes more and more apparent the faster I go. It seems the sound is directly correspondent to wheel movement upon accelerating. Nevertheless I could be wrong.
I had a friend tag along to diagnose the sound and to him it sounded similar to the "tunneling of air not being properly sealed" but to me it sounds like a metallic grind. My friend also mentioned that he felt it was louder towards the passenger side in contrast to the drivers. As mentioned before the sound is reproduced anytime wheel movement occurs. I've checked torque spec for every replacement job done to the car so there are no loose bolts/nuts/brackets. (but there are exceptions, which I will get to).
Knowing that I've replaced both of the wheel bearings (and hub assembly) I can only assume the sources isn't from there. But I do admit a few mistakes while I had the car on jacks.
1. During the timing belt replacement I thought I would need to remove the exhaust (because I felt it would interfere with the lowering of the engine) so I, (without success), tried to remove the connection between the "bend of the exhaust" to the manifold which were 4 'turbo studs'. I had the worst time with the removal of studs but I was able to impact one them off, and as I tried another the strength of the impact broke one them half way through (meaning that I was able to unthread it a few threads but it snapped in the process, so I would need to somehow drill it out in order to replace it). This is where I gave up and did my best to install the one I had removed. Which I could only get threaded half of the way in.
-All in all I have 1 broken stud that still making a connection, and 1 protruding stud out of the 4 that connects the exhaust to the manifold.
Question: Can this be the cause of the sound? Without the full connection of 4 studs bolting exhaust to the manifold? Can this be the sound That my friend was referring to as the "tunneling air not being properly sealed"?
2. The second "mistake" isn't necessarily a mistake but a fault I found later that has to do with the Passenger CV Axle. I read a few forums here and read that it could be a problem with the axles, so I put the front end on jacks once again and found that there was a bit of movement of play on the axle shaft itself. In detail, the 2 connection points for the axle both at the Output differential flange and Hub assembly are secure and torqued to spec without any loose bolts.
BUT the rod itself seems to shift about a 1/2" between these two connecting points.
Question: Could THIS be the problem? With this type of 1/2" shift in the rod is it possible it can recreate the dull metallic grinding I'm hearing so much?
Infiniti - G35 :: 2008 - How To Reprogram Key Fob
I have a 2008 Infiniti G35x with a push button start. The dealer recently replaced my key fob under warranty but now wants to charge me (about 1/2 hr labor) to reset the 2nd key fob, which I did not think to bring with me when the last service was performed, and which now does not work since the key fob was reprogrammed.
Can I fix this myself? Or is this something the dealer needs to do? I have seen many references to reprogramming Nissan key fobs but all start with "insert the key 7 times" and I don't have a key.
Infiniti :: Won't Start Sometimes - Radio Will Die And Engine Keep Going
I have a 2003 Infiniti g35 with about 140,000 miles on it. Its been having a strange problem recently and intermittently. Sometimes when I first get in the car and I put the key in and try to start it NOTHING happens. I mean nothing. Not sound, no lights anything. If I slam the door and try the key again the dash lights may flick on for a second but then nothing. I'll open the hood for a bit and slam it and try starting it again and it will usually start again fine. It also seems to happen more when its hot outside or the car has been sitting in the sun. Other things notable about this problem is that MOST of the time, things like the radio presets are unaffected. That is, when the car does start it's not like it was a cable from the battery or anything since the radio was still getting power.
Another, possibly related problem, is if the car is running and I park, but have not turned the ignition off yet because I'm listening to the radio (those driveway moments) and reach up like I'm ready to turn the car off and just ever so slightly grip the key, the radio will die and the engine will keep going. These things lead me to believe that it all has something to do with the actual ignition switch where the key goes in. Of course when I drop it off at the mechanic it does not get reproduced and he thought it was the starter until I reiterated the fact that NOTHING happens when the key turns. It can't be the starter since when you turn the key there is no power to anything. This has been going on for over a month but I finally got fed up when I couldn't get it started after stopping at the 7-11 on the way to work. I took it right into the shop but the mechanics opinion is "if I can't get it to act up, I can't diagnose the problem" which seems kinda lame to me, but what can I do.
Infiniti - G35 :: Off Balance Humming Along When Reach About 50 Mph
I have a 2003 infiniti g35. With about 93k. When I reach about 50mph I begin to hear an off balance hum. I believe it is coming from the front tires. If I speed up past 70 I cannot here it or its frequency increases to where it is not noticeable. I thought it was my tires but I recently replaced the two front tires but the humming still is present. I don't know if its the steering, wheels or the engine. A few months ago I ran over a curb (drivers side) and had the front bumper replaced due to damage. I'm almost positive that knocked something off alignment, but I took it back to the repair shop and they said they could not find anything.
View 2 RepliesPhaeton :: 2004 V8 Vs Infiniti M45 - Comparing?
I've had my Phaeton for about six weeks now, and I thought it would be interesting to compare it to the car I switched from:
The Infiniti M45 was the marque's second-best car available in 2004. Really, the only things it lacked from the Q45 flagship were a rear sunshade, backup camera, and electronic suspension. It had the same 340HP V8 VK45DE engine but weighed about 1000 lbs less. It's been pegged by Jalopnik as a future classic and it's one of the best cars I have ever been in, and certainly the best I've ever personally owned before the Phaeton. The most apt description I've heard is "Japanese muscle car" and I completely agree; Nissan even made a goofy video to that effect starring Chris Mulkey from Twin Peaks.
The car also probably matches the Phaeton in terms of rarity, if not being even more rare. It was sold for only two years, had less than 8,000 imported, and has an understated but unique look.
Here's how I think they stack up:
- Cooled seats: M stomps the Phaeton here. From what I know the VW system just recirculates cabin air through the seat; this appears accurate from when I've had the seat apart. The Infiniti system actually has a cooling element within the seat to further cool the air. The end result is leather that actually feels cool to the touch and makes hot interiors bearable more quickly.
- Rest of the seating: The M featured an exclusive grade of Japanese leather which is both comfortable and durable. However, VW's "comfort leather" is definitely softer (though I worry about marring it) and you can't beat 18-way adjustability. The M seats are more supportive with better bolsters, fitting its more sporting nature, but the Phaeton is definitely the winner in comfort and personalization.
- Driveline: No one buys a Phaeton to race, but the M really shines here. It's been timed at around 5.6 seconds for the 0 to 60 MPH sprint and if you've ever driven one it seems believable. This makes it quite fun as most people see it and assume it to be a "grandpa car;" they're in for a surprise when you floor it and the dual-stage exhaust opens up. Plus, I absolutely love RWD cars. The Phaeton will keep me safe and sound through winters in the mountains, but little else puts a smile on my face like flooring it through a turn and feeling the rear end begin to break loose. Just can't do that with AWD. It also gets a couple MPG better fuel economy. Add in Nissan's version of Servotronic and this was a car that begged to be driven, and driven hard.
- Gadgets: This one is probably a tie. The Phaeton has so many little things: the vent covers, the rear headrests, the self-folding mirrors, heated steering wheel, etc. There's all kinds of things to show passengers and discover when new. However, the M had a number of features that my Phaeton lacks; some were available as options from VW and some weren't. For instance, the M had a voice recognition system to control climate, stereo, and navigation systems. It also had a radar-controlled "Intelligent Cruise Control" shared with its big brother, the Q. The navigation system was DVD-based, which means no disc-swapping or slow reads, and satellite radio was an available option. I also don't understand why the Phaeton's easy entry function doesn't move the seat; the M would move the seat when getting out and in as well as the steering wheel. For me, I feel that the Phaeton has lots of subtle features that bring a smile, but the M had more features that I actually used and got benefit out of.
- Ride quality and sound level: Without question, the Phaeton is the winner. The M makes for a great highway cruiser, though it's ride is a bit stiffer and can't be adjusted. It's by no means bad, but nothing can compete with the silence of the Phaeton cabin and the stability of the 'Comfort' suspension setting. There's just no contest.
- Fit and finish: Again the Phaeton pulls ahead. The M features birds-eye maple trim throughout and high quality leather upholstery, but the rich finish of the eucalyptus in the Phaeton and the buttery smooth feel of the Vienna leather are unbeatable. The M was by no means cheap, but the Phaeton is of course in a class of its own.
- Roominess: I don't know why, but the M actually had its fuel tank in the trunk. This meant no pass-through between the rear seats and a disappointingly small trunk. It was also large by Japanese standards but at 6' 1" my head just grazed the roof, and this when I had the seat adjusted as low as possible. Plus, I could hold a conference in the back of the Phaeton if I so desired.
I hope no one thinks I'm picking on the Phaeton; I just think it's fascinating to compare what different manufacturers were doing in their best vehicles at the same time. As my signature belies I enjoy Nissan vehicles, and I would personally pull the trigger on an Infiniti before any Acura or even Lexus (I thought the LS 430 was a huge let-down after all the hype when I finally drove one).
The Phaeton was without question an upgrade, but there will always be a special place in my heart and wistful pangs for the M45 (more pics of mine).
What other cars have you all owned and loved?
Infiniti - G35 :: Fixing SES P0430 Code?
I recently purchased a used, high mileage 2004 Infiniti G35x (AWD) 145K miles from a reputable new car dealer here in my town. The car was impeccably maintained and clean inside and out. Just a week or two after the purchase my SES light came on revealing engine Code: P0430 (catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 2) pointing to a new catalytic converter in my future. Infiniti recommends premium unleaded for this vehicle. I found out my son filled her up with mid-grade unleaded. Is there any chance this could have triggered the SES light to come on? (Previous owner states he always used premium unleaded in the vehicle since ownership.) I also double checked the gas cap to make sure it was on tight. I find it extremely odd that the SES light would come on so shortly after the purchase. I mean what are the odds? Don't dealers run a diagnostic scan of their trade-ins to check history and for potential problems prior to selling their used cars? I test drove this car numerous times without any indication of a problem and right on the heels of the purchase it passed state emissions... now just a few days later, the SES light comes on. Why wouldn't emissions pick that up? I have reset the SES light (code) and filled her up with premium unleaded. Now it's a waiting game to see if the light comes on again. If the light reappears, I plan on taking it back to the dealer to work out some kind of "reasonable solution" to repair costs. I'll find out just how willing he is to stand behind his cars. I realize that this is a high mileage car, and I hardly expect perfection, but I didn't see this coming. What to do... what to do... By the way, I checked all the fluid levels ... no discoloration in the oil (fresh, golden brown)... no discoloration in the coolant... transmission fluid, good... all other levels are good. Car runs fine, no rough idle in cold...
View 11 RepliesInfiniti - I35 :: Bad Radiator - Water In Transmission
Long story short is that my radiator malfunctioned and mixed transmission and coolant. I took it to a shop and they did a flush of both the radiator and transmission after putting in a brand new radiator. I drove it home and it has sat for a week. I popped the hood today and there is a little pit of pink transmission in the radiator no big deal but the transmission dip stick is thick and pink so I know there is water still in the transmission. I have already concluded I will need a new transmission and was curious what will I need to have replaced? Just the clutch, the entire transmission, or something else? Also would it be cheaper to have it overhauled or find a rebuilt transmission and pay to have it swapped? I understand quite a bit about cars but when it comes to transmission I have not knowledge.
View 2 RepliesInfiniti - G20 :: Clutch Went Straight To The Floor
I have a 1995 Infiniti G20. I was driving and everything was fine when my clutch went straight to the floor. It was incredibly arduous to pull back up, now the clutch is very stiff, almost impossible to push down. What could the problem be?
View 3 Replies