Passat (B5) :: Brake-related Rattle Occurs On Rough Road Surfaces?

I have an annoying rattle the occurs on rough road surfaces. It comes from the front right wheel area but goes away instantly with light brake pedal pressure. Three trips to the shop have not identified the problem. I just read somewhere that there are "anti-rattle clips" or springs on the brake calipers. Is this right and are these the same as the retaining springs/clips that can be seen from the outside through the slots in the alloys wheels?

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Golf IV R32 :: Rattle From Right Rear Wheel Goes Away When Brakes Applied?

On the r32 there is a rattling noise coming from the right rear wheel. It's a very tinny sound and is definitely a metallic noise. The weird thing is as soon as you his the brake, it goes away. Even if you just lightly press on it, it stops. I took the wheel off, looked around for anything loose and found nothing. It's super loud though and completely embarrassing. My e36 bmw does the same exact thing as well and has done so for years, but its much quieter and not as often. On the mkiv its almost constant and at every speed.

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Civic - Honda :: 2012 - Make Noise When Brake Applied?

I bought a 2012 honda civic HF, now has 1000 miles. I hear a clunk when I release the pedal. I heard the same noise on another car that was on the dealer's lot. The dealership has not been useful with fixing this issue; they said the clunk is normal. Honda has not been all that supportive. What is making this sound and what can I do about this?

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Ford - Fiesta :: 2011 - Rattle Which Occurs Essentially When Going Up Hills

So I just started leasing a 2011 Ford Fiesta, with an automatic transmission, which as I'm told is actually an automated manual. In any case, from day one the car has had a terrible rattle coming from the driver's side of the vehicle, which occurs essentially when going up hills, starting from a stop, and basically between shifting.

I looked it up online, and found some articles talking about Ford replacing transmissions, and some other similar complaints. When I took it in to the dealer, since I felt that it's ridiculous that a brand new car should have any rattle at all, they said they had to update the software for the transmission, and that may work. Now, over a month later, it still rattles quite a bit.

My question is, how normal is this? Is there any information about the Fiesta's transmission or other parts that say it rattles, but that it's not something to worry about? I was told at the dealership that due to the type of transmission it is, it would rattle occasionally, and that it should improve as the computer learns my driving style. I just think it's absurd that I should hear such a noise, which is clearly not what I would call normal engine noise.

I have to note that this is also only my second car, and I have had very little experience driving American cars, since most of my life I've driven exclusively Japanese cars. I don't know if it is just normal engine noise for a Fiesta, or if it's something to bug the dealership to get fixed while it's still under warranty.

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Loud Rattle Occurs On Every Startup?

I have a 2004 F150 with 195,000mi. For the last several moths the truck has had a rattle on startup, some days it is barely noticable and only on cold starts, other days it is loud and occurs on every startup. The truck was most recently serviced at the Ford dealer and is filled with Motorcraft 5w-20 syn blend and Motorcraft filter Every change before was either Motorcraft syn blend or Penzoil Platinum (I have always used Motorcraft filters on it) and the noise continued after oil changes so I don't think the drain back valve is the issue. I replaced the cam phasers, timing chains, chain tensioners, and guides about 15,000 miles (2 years) ago and the vct solenoids shortly after that. Here is an audio clip of the noise (I know the truck also has an exhaust manifold leak, I plan on replacing the manifold while im working on it

Is this noise the lash adjusters or have the cam phasers failed again (they were dorman parts)? If it is the lash adjusters, can they be replaced without removing the cams? will failed adjusters be obviously damaged? Should I also replace the cam followers? do i need to replace all 24 at once or can i safely replace only damaged ones or maybe just 1 bank (noise seems to only be coming from the pass side)?

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Honda - Cr-v :: Loud Clicking In Right Wheel When Turned Hard At Slow Speeds / Parallel Parking

At 100k I took my 2004 CR-V in for belated 90k maintenance. Besides the routine stuff, they had to replace the ball joints. They also rotated and balanced the tires, which are about 15k miles old.

Took the car home, and immediately noticed a loud clicking in the right wheel when I turned it hard at slow speeds, parallel parking, etc. Took it back to the shop and was informed that it was a spindle problem. Mechanics said this was merely a coincidence, not a result of their recent work, but nicely charged me only for parts not labor. They had to replace the ABS sensor in the course of this work.

Next day, had to take a long weekend trip, about 500 miles there and back. Half-way through, noticed two things: groaning/clicking noise in brakes at slow speeds, and a slight but detectable vibration through the gas pedal when traveling 30-50MPH. Also a faint "wobble" sound at this speed as though coming from front right tire.

Took it back to the shop: was told that brake rotors were rusted and this was responsible for groaning/clicking--something to do with warping due to the rust + car getting warm from long drive. They lubed up the rotors real good and there is no more sound, though I've not driven it a long distance yet.

BUT, faint vibration in gas pedal and wobble noise at 30-50 persists. Mechanic said that when they rotated the tires, they noted that they had gone "out of round," but thought balancing might bring them back in round. Is it possible that the sound & vibration are just from the tires trying to find their level? Is this the kind of thing where I'm all of a sudden looking at 4 new tires (seems premature)? Any other front-end possibilities? Should I take it to a tire shop? I have found my mechanics pretty good over the past couple of years, but this recent series of visits has made me slightly leery...

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Lexus LS 2007+ :: Dash Rattle Only Occurs When Cold Seems Like Bolt Is Loose

I own a 2011 IS350 RWD. My 4 year warranty just expired. So when it comes to rattles, the 4yr/50k miles no longer cover my rattle concern.

I spent about my 3rd year on a rattle that seems like only occurs when its cold. On cold days/morning, this rattle between the dash will come and it sounds like a bolt is loose, and is moving around or something like that along the lines of that.

So right before my 4th year mark came, I brought it in one last time to hope they can get rid of it. Once I got the car back, it was during winter.. so it still happened, but instead it was a lot louder than before.

Is there anything I can do? Since I've been trying to bring it in to get it checked out for a good year, I'm hoping there's a way for the dealership to honor that one concern I have with my IS.

Other than this rattle, I love my car. The rattle can get pretty bad/annoying especially when you're on a phone call. I bring this issue up during every oil change to get it checked out.

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Passat (B5) :: Driver Side Wheel Shakes And Rattle Noise When Slightly Apply The Brake

Ok everyone the good weather is back, so the drivers side window is down and, I am back to diagnosing an issue that I've been having for some time now. BTW were dealing with my DD 02 1.8t wagon. So all the time over any little bumps in the road or anything that i roll over that "shakes" the drivers side wheel I get this terrible rattle noise. I mean it sounds like I am a dump truck bombing down the road with a bunch of shovels in it......well not that extreme but that sort of shake noise. Anyway the noise however does not occur over any bumps when i even just slightly apply the brake. So I know that it has got to have something to do with the brake rotor or caliper or something on that wheel. Any common issues with brakes? I mean i doubt it is hurting the performance of the vehicle but it is extremely annoying and i feel like something isn't stable that should be until i apply my brakes.

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Rattle And Vibration At Idle Only Occurs With The Truck In Gear And Stopped

My F-150 has developed a rattle and vibration at idle that only occurs with the truck in gear and stopped (with the brake depressed.) The noise appears to be coming from the front of the truck, perhaps from the driver's side (though it's difficult to tell while sitting in the cab).

Before I go crawling around underneath with my son holding the brake while the truck is in drive--I would sure like to know where it might be best to point the flashlight.

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Honda - Cr-v :: 1997 - Intermittent Thunk Noise Coming From Front Passenger Side

There is an intermittent “Thunk Ah” noise coming from what appears to be the front passenger side of my ’97 CRV. Occurs while driving slow or fast, on turns or while driving straight. No vibrations felt, no shaking or movement of steering wheel, CRV drives straight even when hands are off steering wheel. Noise can happen on smooth or bumpy road but bumps will not always create the noise. When CRV was on the lift the mechanic found problems with right strut and left tie rod end – both front struts were replaced along with the left tie rod end and then an alignment was done.

After this CRV continues to make the noise. I always back into my driveway, which is on a slight incline, and park level in my carport with the wheels turned to the left. Twice, within the last week, I parked with the wheels turned to the right. I found that when I parked this way with the wheels turned to the right, I couldn’t get the CRV to produce the “Thunk Ah” noise until later in the day after driving and then parking at work. Mechanics are stumped and don’t know what else to explore.

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Toyota - Corolla :: 1991 - After Loud Thunk Front Wheel Locked Up?

The differential inside the trans. of my 91 Corolla 1.6L with 175K grenaded as I was cruising down the highway. Just heard a loud "thunk" and the front wheels locked up. The stock trans is a three speed A131L hooked up to the AE92. The engine still has a lot of life left in it so I will be putting a new transmission in it. This 6th generation Corolla was availabe with a four speed trans. Can I replace it with a four speed trans? I can get the shifter out of a recycling yard but don't know if anything else needs changed-out.

I'd like to get a re-manufactured trans as who knows how the previous owner took care of their transmission if I pulled one out of the bone yard. I'd hate to put in a trans only to have to re-do the job three months later. Are there any reputable transmission re-builders you would recommend? I'm in the Tampa area and am willing to go anywhere in the state for a known good trans.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Thunk Coming From Wheel Hub Upon Braking

Ok so my left front wheel hub (from what it sounds like) might be on its way out. Upon braking there is a "thunk" that sounds like its coming from said wheel hub and I can feel it in the floor. Also when turning sharply at low speed in (either in 2h 4h 4l) and then braking there is also a lovely grinding noise coming from again what sounds like the wheel hub area. So without tearing open the wheel hub what can I do to actually properly diagnose without taking it to a shop.

Also, lets a assume its the wheel hub and associated parts, what all do i need to buy parts and tools wise in addition to the wheel hub itself. I've seen 2 or 3 trucks so far this winter with shattered hubs.

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Passat (B5) :: 2000 VW GLX - Intermittently At 30 Mph Make Thunk And Momentarily Brake

I have "new to me" 2000 VW Passat GLX (station wagon). Intermittently at @ 30 mph it will make a thunk and momentarily "brake" as if it just hit a pot hole. I assume its transmission related, but what am I looking at to repair it?

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Ford Wiring/Electrical :: Driver Side Brake Light Goes Out When Brake Pressure Is Applied

I have a 1962 ford falcon ranchero. The driver side brake light, goes out when brake pressure is applied, but is on when lights are fully on, but even then brake pressure is applied and goes out. Right brake light is fine. And turn signal on right works. But driver side back light goes out when brake pressure is put on and when turn signal is put for left side. Right makes a turn noise left side doesn't. I recently replaced the turn signal switch. So its brand new. But older wires every where else. No cuts anywhere on wires. Fine. And replaced the bulb also.

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Golf IV R32 :: Minor Hesitation And Audible Thunk When Release Parking Brake

Quick background. 1+ years ago I'd sometimes get the "moo" when in reverse. It was intermittent and never enough or a persistent issue to address. Recently, no moo, but I noticed when I'd release the parking brake and move forward there'd be a minor hesitation and an audible thunk, not too pronounced, then it'd roll freely from then forward.

Replaced rear brakes a few weeks ago, noticed the right side parking brake arm doesn't reset as far free as the left. Pushing it 'home' by hand made a little thunk in the cable house up near where it bends towards the vehicle's midline. Brakes installed, and it spun freely by hand with perhaps only a very small amount of 'hiss' but not consistent for a full revolution, only periodically. Lubed both cables from the center console.

Last night installed parking brake return springs, set and released the parking brake a few times to see how it felt. Right side looks like it still does not return home 100% (maybe, 2-3mm away, same as before). Today, made a run to Napa. Got there fine, when leaving, drop the parking brake, and as I'm grabbing reverse I get a yellow dash light and a "check brake pads" warning. I drove about a block, pulled over, shut off engine, got underneath (no parking brake set) and the arm seemed to sit about where it should. I drove a few miles at low speed, pulled over (left engine running, set parking brake), checked temp of all rotors (both sides) with my finger, nothing noticeable. Drove a few more, repeated the above (engine running, brake set) and temps were still cool.

Got home, replaced fans. Started up to test fans, and the error isn't there now.

If it was going to throw an error I'd more likely expect it when leaving home, where I had cycled the parking brake handle multiple times. No error there, or en route to Napa. Leaving Napa, parking brake engaged only once, I got the error. Powering off and restarting, it was still there. Successive stops did not have the engine shut off. Once home, it cleared.

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Hyundai - Elantra :: 2013 - Thunk Sound And Lurch When Release Foot From Brake Pedal To Go Into Drive

After driving in the rain and starting the car again after a few hours (as in starting the car again after work, or starting it first thing in the morning) the following happens: As soon as I release my foot from the brake pedal to go into "drive," there is a "thunk" sound from the rear of the car as well as a lurch. A soft "thunk" may have a soft 'thunk" sound, but a louder thunk will have a pronounced lurch/jerkiness from the rear. The car drives OK and has no problem with braking when I apply the brakes.

It happens only after driving in the rain. The dealer says the sound and movement are the normal result with disc brakes wearing off the rust on the rotors. Other wet weather concern (happened once): while driving in a couple inches of snow, the brakes began to grind and eventually failed to bring the car to a stop. Dealer rotated the rear rotors (due to uneven wear, although I had the car only two weeks at the time) and installed new rear brake pads. He said grinding brakes on an Elantra are normal in rainy, snowy, and dusty conditions. Is my car really safe to drive? Is there a problem? I'm considering trading it it as I don't feel safe. It is an otherwise OK car.

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Honda - Accord :: 1993 - Passenger Side Rear Wheel Brake Does Not Engage

I have a 10th anniversary Honda Accord. When you apply the emergency brake, the passenger rear wheel brake does not engage. This car appears to have 2 master cylinders, but I could not find any documentation to confirm. Is this correct? The reservoir on the passenger side is way above the max mark. I'm thinking this is somehow related to the e-brake issue.

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Ford - F250 :: Shaking Of Steering Wheel That Usually Occurs At Medium Speeds

My Ford F250 XLT (HD) 2 wheel drive has recently developed a shimmy; a shaking of the steering wheel that usually occurs at medium speeds, and seems worse when going around a curve. But since it doesn't seem safe to drive, I dropped by a local shop for a diagnosis. Their thought was that I had a caliper sticking, since it pulled to the left when they test drove it and applied the brakes, and maybe rotors since the vibration indicated warped rotors. Since I hadn't mentioned shaking during braking, I paid the diagnostic and moved on.

Upon leaving, the shaking started up again going around the first curve, at about 35-40 mph. Shortly after that I took it to a dry, flat, unbusy stretch of road, and applied the brakes at about 60 mph, and brought it to a stop in it's lane with my hands off the wheel; no pull either way. Now I have it up on stands, and have visually and physically checked the parts I know and recognize, i.e., ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings, etc. I don't know how to inspect gear box, or steering shaft issues, but steering wheel play is minimal.

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Prius (2010-12) :: Steering Wheel Noise That Occurs When Passing Through Potholes

I have a prius 2010 with 120000km that I had to replace the steering intermediate shaft. What happens is that it does not work a noise that occurs when passing through potholes but ceases to rotate a little direction in either direction.

Sounds from the steering wheel, steering shaft inside. The workshop wants to replace the entire steering for column but its price is very high. The engine is fantastic but the rest of the car, especially adjustments, soundproofing and suspensions, a horror.

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