Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 - Rough Idle / Dies Warm And Long Crank

My 06 currently has 296k miles. 3 years ago I put a lot into her. Dummy plugs, stand pipes, STC, hg,studs, oil cooler, bpd egr cooler. Cleaned spool valves and fresh o rings in injectors. (Alliant) plus a lot more that I can't remember. Ran very very well after all that.

Fast forward to a few weeks ago. Driving down road and truck died as I let off pedal to slow down for turn onto my road. Took about 7-8 tries to get started back up. Icp was reading in the 300's until it finally started. Made it home. Shut it off. And started right back up.

Few days later truck died again same way. Let off to make a turn. Several attempts to restart icp was in the 300's again. Once it started building 420ish it sounded like it was firing a few injectors and slowly started running. The next time it happened the same way but when I got it back running I eased to my inlaws like less than a mile. When I got to their house and pulled in and went to back up to turn around the display on dash said low oil pressure and started missing a little. So once I got home started researching.

A few days ago I pulled out the low pressure oil regulator to check it out. It was clean but did have some mild scaring. I used some fine scotch rite and smooth it out a a little. It moved freely in the bore so I put it back together. Then pulled the oil filter cap off to check the little black valve. I noticed the filter was not dripping with oil like normally when I change the oil. And yes it's motor craft filter and cap. It checked out ok. Press it down and turned engine over and it filled and held. Let off of it and it drained.

Next I air checked the high pressure side. Applied air and waited until I could hear the air (IPR still open) then closed the IPR. Couldn't hear any leaks. Just a very very minor his and couldn't pin point where. So I went ahead and went to dealer and got new stand pipes and plugs. And ordered new print set for injectors. Pulled injectors and didn't see any smoking guns. Replaced prongs, stand pipe and dummy plugs and put it all back together. Cleaned the injector cups and hold down bolt holes. Torqued injectors to spec.

Got it all done and rotate motor by wire next to heater blower to assist prime system. Tried to start it up and it took two tries but fired right up and sounded smooth as hell. After it idled a few minutes I saw a haze from exhaust. It smelt just like fuel. A few minutes later started idle a little rough. Gave it some go pedel and it was rougher at about 1600-1800rpms and couldn't feel it above 2k. Got my laptop out with AE and done balance test. Did not show anything. No codes either.

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Golf V R32 :: Not Blowing Warm Air At Idle But Heat Comes Back Under Load?

My car is not blowing warm air at idle when warmed up. When under load driving the heat comes back then chills down when stopped at a light or traffic. I did a coolant flush by fill and gravity drain earlier this summer and have had zero issues with overheating or anything else. Could there be air in the heater core or is my water pump or thermostat failing?

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Lexus GS 2006-11 :: Heater Was Blowing Cold At Idle And Warm When Driving

2007 GS 350 109,500 miles. My heater was blowing cold at idle and warm when driving so I took it to dealer. To my surprise, dealer says its a blown head gasket. No other symptoms. No white smoke, no smells, no warning lights on dash, and running fine. Just had VVT gear recall done last week.

Fortunately I have Lexus extended warranty good thru 125k miles and Feb 2014. I do my own maintenance (plugs, oil changes etc). Have records for all. But have not done coolant change (due at 100k).

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Lexus GS 2006-11 :: Heater Blowing Cold At Idle, Warm When Revving / Driving

My '06 GS450h has developed a fault where the heater blows cold at idle and low revs but blows warm when driving or revving the engine at a standstill. The coolant hasn't dropped at all and the car never goes above halfway on the temp gauge. Its starting to get frustrating now the cold weather has set in and temps dropping! Long journeys are ok as at high speeds it stays warm but short journeys are uncomfortable!

I just had a feel of the rad hoses and hoses that go into the matrix (engine side of bulk head) and matrix hoses feel warm (both of them), the top hose to the rad is warm but not hot and bottom hose is cold suggesting the stat hasn't opened yet. Its cold outside so getting the car up to temp is quite difficult without a long drive (rush hour at the mo).

Still I just had the car parked on the drive and cranked the heater up to max and held the accelerator for a while and super warm air blows out. The engine cuts back out as "normal operating temp" has been reached for battery mode and then the heater goes cool again! Still the bottom radiator hose is cool and top hose not massively warm. It has never overheated thus far and I drive 150miles a day back and forth to Reading from Cheltenham 4 nights a week.

Only thing I can think of is a sticky thermostat or water pump not operating sufficiently enough to circulate the water? Its getting colder and short trips where it used to blow warm air nice and quickly (within 3-5miles) are becoming unpleasant!

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Prius (Gen 2) :: A/C Blowing Warm And Middle Vents Not Blowing Any Air?

I've recently purchased a 2007 Prius and I just noticed few days go that A/C blows warm air (weather was fair when I bought it and I can't remember if it really worked or not then) and middle vents do not blow any air. I'm not sure if two problems are connected but I do want to get both fixed without spending $$$ at the dealership. Where can I start?

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Passat (B5) :: 2002 - Long Cranking Once Warm

What a strange problem. EVERY EVERY morning the car starts perfect. Once it is warm some of the time (half) it will give a long crank approx 2.5 seconds before it will start. What a stupid problem! I have replaced:

Spark Plugs (NGK G-power) cheaper than stock, supposed to be better.

timing belt, water pump, idler-just matenence
Cam sensors

crank sensor (on tranny)

I checked the wires and coil by hosing them down while running. Vag-com says the temperature sensor is correct. No trouble codes except Secondary Air... What to do

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IS F (2008-2014) :: How Long To Warm Up The Car In The Cold

I sometimes pulloff after a minute then Im off, but slowly until the engine temp gets to the middle. I won't go caveman on it until the oil temp is almost in the middle too (never quite gets to the middle for the engine oil temp)

Is this logic right? Lexus guy told me it'll warm up as you go. If it was like zero degrees out then yes Id let it idle for 10-15 minutes.

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Subaru - Forester :: 2011 - Takes A Long Time To Warm Up?

I love my 2011 Forester except for one thing. (you all knew this was coming) it seems to take forever to warm up! My Forester has a blue light on the dash (Coolant temperature Light) It turns red if the temperature is too high and it is blue when the car is started and then goes out when the car is warmed up. To me, this seems to take too long. My Forester has 50,000 miles on it. The other day I timed how long it took to warm up. The forester sat at work for 8 hours. When I started it up to go home, (it was 42 degrees), it took almost 4 minutes for the blue light to go off indicating the car was properly warmed up. All my coworkers were long gone. I bought the car new and I intend to drive it for many years so I have been waiting for the blue light to go off. I get a hard time from friends and family telling me to get going...I don't think it takes this long for other cars to warm up.

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Prius (2010-12) Fuel :: Car Takes Too Long To Warm Up From Cold Start

It seems like it takes an awfully long time for the good mileage to get going from a cold start - even when it's warm outside. The last 5 miles of my commute are great, but the first 10 miles not so much. How much effect does ambient air temperature have on this process.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Long Cranking When Warm / Pressure Too Low

Some information about the truck2004 Excursion, Motor has a December 2003 built date listed on the valve cover

Bullet proof complete by Hallas performance just prior to Mike's passing (3 years ago). ARP, EGR, Oil Cooler, lifters, etc..

Newer batteries, DC amp 185 alternator, newer starter, she cranks hard and fast~230,000 miles

Here is the situation: Starts good and fast when cold, even subzero temperatures. She cranks long and barely catches if I make a short stop at a store or restaurant. A few hours later or the next morning is fine.

I found the following codes:

P2284 - Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P2291 - Injector Control Pressure Too Low - Engine Cranking
P0528

I took her into the local Ford Dealer for diagnosis and here's what they reported. ICP tests good and has the latest pigtails. They reported a leak in either of the following.

Oil injection pump Estimate of 8.5 hours to repair.
Under the Valve Cover Gasket. Estimate of 3.5 hours to repair.

So here are the questions I have. Does this diagnosis sound appropriate? Is it reasonable that they do not know which area is causing the problem? Are the hours reasonable estimates for the repairs? Assuming I go ahead with these repairs, is there anything else I should have them look at while they're in there?

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Golf VI R :: AC Stops Blowing Out Of The Vents During Long Drive

I did a 9 hour drive last week and partway thru the trip the AC stops blowing out of the vents. No combination of punching buttons on the AC system solved the problem, although manually increasing the fan speed caused something behind the glove box to make a LOUD sound of rushing air (still nothing out of vents though). Finally I turned off the system completely for over an hour and then it magically started working again. I assume something in the system froze and had to thaw out. The exterior temp was low (mid-60s) but it was raining and the AC was keeping the windows un-fogged.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Long Crank Start And No Oil Pressure When Warm - Codes P2290 And P2291

As the title says I am suddenly having a long crank when starting and low oil pressure when when warm (above approximately 100 degrees). IPR goes to 85% when cranking. Stored codes were P2290 and P2291. Other symptoms are low power and what sounds like a power steering pump with low oil whine and low power. (It is not power steering related however, I checked.) I pulled the oil filter and cranked engine and filter bowl filled in less than 10 seconds.

Oil did have a fair bit of air bubbles. Oil has 5000 miles and is Motorcraft 10w30 diesel. I have not added any since the last change. I do not have the new style pump so it's not the STC fitting. What my issue is? I do have AE if any other info is required. Particulars are in sig. The searches I have done combined with the mileage I have lead me to either the low pressure pump is failing, or the high pressure pump has lost the ball bearing out of the side.

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Lexus RX 2010-15 :: Climate Control - Long Delay Before AC Starts Blowing On Hot Days

i have noticed ever since i got my 15 rx that on hot days when i get in, and start it up. there is a pretty long delay before the a/c starts blowing? kinda stinks when its hot out and the inside of the car is even hotter? all i know for sure is my 01, and 05`s used to come on almost instantly, so just curious if this is just the way its supposed to be on the 15.

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Touareg :: AC Blowing Out Warm Air

I turned on my AC... set the temp to 62 degrees (pressed AUTO and pressed the button where all the AC controls are all the same temp) ... And its blowing out warm air.. Left it running for about 5 minutes and still no sign of cold air.... Am I doing something wrong? do i not know how to turn on the AC?

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Passat (B6) :: AC Blowing Warm Air

So, I get in my car yesterday after being away for the weekend (the car has been sitting for 4 days). I get in and crank the AC and it blows warm air. My first thought was "here we go, I need a new AC compressor". I decided to pull into a driveway and I turned off the car, and then turned it on again. When I restarted the car, the AC kicked in like it is supposed to. Cold air as always. Is this a sign of the AC going out?

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Touareg :: AC Only Blowing Warm Air

I have a 2004 4.2. Touareg A/C is only blowing warm air. I ran Vag-com no codes. I used a gauge to check refrigerant ,the system was empty. I added refrigerant, i could see it increase and then decrease immediately. The A/C then work for a while then started blowing warm again. Used the gauge again ...empty. I then noticed clear oil on the ground. There is a drip from underneath front drivers side , looks like from a small silver canister by radiator.

I'm thinking about adding dye and looking for the leak. Is this A DIY fix or should I just take it to a mechanic. I've replaced the timing belt, brakes, drive shaft and a few other repairs. I hate taking this car to a mechanic, they always have issues.

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Passat (B5) :: A/C Blowing Warm Air Out?

I know last year it was working fine, actually went pretty cold. Yesterday it was 93 degree here in Wisconsin, so thats pretty hot for us. Anyways, It's blowing warm air out, not hot or anything just pretty much outside air (the feel of it atleast) Can this be recharged with free0on or w.e it takes??

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Taurus :: 2001 - AC Blowing Warm Air When On Max

2001 DOHC AC all of a sudden started blowing warm air when on max AC, not regular cabin air but warm air as if it is on heater mode. It has automatic climate control. I checked the charge and low side is 30psi and high side about 130 psi. Pipes in engine bay are sweating so cooling is occurring. The compressor cycles once or twice when I first turn the car on then just runs continuously. I put some charge in but it didn't do anything so I didn't want to overcharge it. I was thinking maybe stuck blend door but how would I check for that.

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Touareg :: AC Occasionally Blowing Warm

Brought my Touraeg in due to a/c occasionally blowing warm. Works 95% of the time. Also, while driving pops up warning light that says "Electronics: Consumers being shut off" this seems to somewhat coincide with the a/c issue. Dealer just called and said I have leaves in my system and need new pollen filter---- and not covered by warranty--- Does not make sense to me-- first we have covered parking and limited leaves in area--- also if leaves then why would it work perfectly sometimes and not others?

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