Chrysler :: 2006 - Coolant Smell When Turn On Heat / Gurgling Noise
I have a 2006 chrysler town &country. It started trying to overheat but always cooled itself down to now overheating. My fans are working. I hear a like Gurgling noise. I can smell the coolant when i turn on my heat and it goes hot then cold. Not sure what's going on but it's pretty frustrating this a lease vehicle. I've put antifreeze in it several times. Not sure what to do.
View 6 RepliesChrysler - Towncountry :: Heat Comes From One Side And Cold From The Other
I have A 2012 Chrysler T&C purchased new Sept. 2012. At times heat comes from one side and cold from the other. Varies which side is cold or hot. Had problem from start and Chrysler said was working on solution. Had back to dealer many times with no fix. Warm weather came, no problem. Cold weather now here and same problem. Chrysler's fix was turn heat control all the way up then back down.
View 3 RepliesChrysler - LeBaron :: 1994 GTC Won't Shift Out Of First And No Working Speedometer
Thought this would be a fairly straight forward fix of making sure that the transmission fluid was full with no air in it, as well as a few other things to try.
Well, I've run out of things I can reliably try right now. Replaced the output sensor on the transmission, filled the transmission fluid with the proper type, read error outputs. (boy was that odd, you have to turn the key three times in a certain way and it blinks codes out at you)
The error readouts point to an Oxygen sensor, and the speed sensor. The oxygen sensor I could care less about at the moment, as I can't really reliably drive the car in first gear. Once it shifts, then I'll fix that, otherwise its wasted money as I won't be driving anyways.
None of my local mechanics have a machine to read or program this thing by the way, so that is kind of out of the question.
Chrysler - Lebaron :: 1994 3.0 Engine Water On Spark Plug
I wanted to no why my car has water on the spark plugs not a lot though couple drips on the threads and on the part u gap(numbers 3 and 5 both are side by side), the oil looks like a light chocolate shack, it also spills a lot of water out the exhaust pipe. sort of like its being sprayed out non stop. i haven't did a compression test but all plugs are removed I am thinking its a head gasket. And the rest of the spark plugs look good just numbers 3 and 5 were wet.
View 19 RepliesChrysler - Lhs :: 1994 Check Engine Light Came On When Key Turned But Goes Out When Car Started
My mother in-law has a 94 Chrysler LHS, 3.5 V6, auto, 66k. Yesterday she was driving home and said the check engine light was on. I went to check it out and the light was not on. The light come on when the key is turned on but goes out when it is started. This is not an OBD-2 car it has a little blue plug and i do not have a code reader for it. Took it to auto zone and they do not have a code reader for this car. Auto Zone and Pep Boys both told me that if the light is off there will not be a code. Further checking on the internet I found out you can get a two digit code by turning the key on and off and count the flashing check engine light. It worked I got code 12 and 51. 51 means lean O2 sensor. If this is true that why does the CEL not stay on. How can I test the O2 sensors?
View 2 RepliesCelica :: 1994 GT - No Heat At Idle
My son has a 1994 Celica GT with the 2.2 5S-FE engine. Recently told me his heat didn't work very well, he had mentioned it last year but due to extreme cold we've been having I decided I would look at it for him. So anyway, I started by pulling the thermostat thinking it was probably stuck open or possibly someone had removed it completely, well there was one in there and it was closed so I tested it in boiling water, worked fine, replaced it anyway.
So then I checked behind and under the dash, thinking maybe something was opening or closing completely, but they are connected and operating, when I move the controls inside I can hear the doors moving and closing and all the linkages under the dash are connected and operating. Still no heat, so I figured the heater core was clogged since the return hose didn't seem to be getting hot, or the heater control valve was bad, pulled the heater core hoses, checked the heater control valve, control valve worked fine and was not plugged. Flushed the heater core, nice clean antifreeze, I then checked it with air, manual said put 6 psi on the input and make sure it was coming out of the return, which it was.
Reconnected everything, bled the air, still nothing, took the hoses off and connected the return hose to the heater control valve, bypassing the heater core, both hoses got hot. Sure seemed like a clogged heater core, did the air test again with 2 psi, still made its way out the return side. Reconnected everything again, still same issue, return hose never got hot. So while it was running hot with thermostat open, I removed the return hose, nothing coming out of the core, then I revved the engine and it started coming out, reconnected it and ran car at 3000 RPM, finally a little heat out of the vent, about 115 degrees by thermometer placed in vent, as soon as I let it idle the temp fell back to 80 within a minute or so.
Now I figured the water pump impeller was worn/corroded or was slipping on the shaft, so I pulled the whole thing apart. ( I should mention that the entire cooling system is very clean I don't see any corrosion anywhere) Any of you that have done this knows what a pain in the butt the whole job is, anyway, when I got it apart I was surprised to see that the impeller looked like new and was definitely NOT slipping on the shaft... what the heck???
When I took the pump off the housing I noticed the housing had a lot of wear, it look as if the previous owner let the water pump fail to the point that the bearing wore enough that the impeller ground down the raised boss inside the housing, I though AH-HA, this has got to be the problem, water is not actually pumping/circulating inside the pump as efficiently as it should, hence the reason I only get coolant into the heater core at high RPM. So i replaced the housing, the water pump, and while I was in there I did all the oil seals, and the timing belt. Well I got it all back together, fired it up added coolant, let the engine come up to temp, bled air, still NO HEAT!
Chrysler - Ptcruiser :: 2004 - Noticeable Wobble Once The Disks Heat Up
I recently had a caliper replaced on the front driver's side wheel. I had driven it a bit at highway speeds before I realized it needed to be replaced.Now, the car drives fine while cold or at normal temperatures. The problem will start after heavy use of the brakes, like when my wife is driving (I down shift) or going downhill. Once the disks heat up the steering starts to build a noticeable wobble. The more brake usage the more wobble and if I lay off the brakes so they cool off a bit the wobble will go away.I figure one of the front disks is warping as they heat. Would this be a good assumption?If so, what is a good way to figure out which side is the culprit without having to change the rotor twice if I get it wrong the first time?
View 12 RepliesChrysler - Mitsubishi - Lebaron :: 1994 - Oil Pressure Gauge Starts Very High
I have a 1994 Chrysler Lebaron. The issue I've been having is for the last two weeks, my oil pressure gauge starts very high(out of normal range), and stays there for a very long time. Whilst it's at the highest possible level, the engine starts to heat up, until the gauge goes into range. This all happens without the car moving. If I leave the car on for 30 minutes(without moving it) the gauge goes into normal range, and for the most part operates normally. I have disconnected the Compressor's belt, in order to be able to turn on the engine fan from inside the car. As long as I keep the fan on, the engine stays cool for the most part.
I have considered that it was sludge, as it would soften as the engine heats up, but I have done an engine flush(machine), and the issue continues.
So far every mechanic I take it too, acts like it's impossible for the oil pump to have any issues, and claims it's normal behavior, which it's not.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 - Low To No Heat
1994 ranger 3.0 .. New: water pump, htr. hoses, radiator, thermostat, pulled & flushed htr. core. (2 year time frame) ....
View 5 RepliesChrysler - Pacifica :: 2006 - Heat Slow To Warm - Coolant Empty?
We have a 2006 Pacifica which as of recent has been slow to warm in the cabin, especially after a couple hour rest (oddly enough, it warms faster after sitting overnight). Also, when checking the fluids, we noticed that the coolant reservoir was just about empty. We added more 50/50 HOAT coolant, maybe 40-50 oz to get it normal cool engine level. This was done when the engine was cold. My wife noticed that the engine has been running warmer than normal. Normal is maybe a quarter the way up on the temp gauge, where it was around the halfway point, still far from the red zone but not its normal level.
This symptom has been going on for maybe a week. After adding additional coolant, the level stayed where we filled it as the engine warmed up. The heater warmed up to a normal level from what I can tell (it is 30 degrees warmer than last week) so it didn't start with a freezing cabin. I haven't seen any leaking of coolant, since I'm sure I would notice a hot pink puddle under the car. This is pretty typical or the sign of something major. It has around 80k miles on it.
Chrysler - Towncountry :: 2012 - Heat Blows Cold From One Side Hot From Other Intermittently?
Bought new oct.2012. Fiirst time used heat blows cold from one side hot from other. not consistent, will vary from left cold, then hot from right or the opposite. been fighting with chrysler from then till now. engineers know problem exists and are working on a fix. haven't found it yet. contacted chrysler numerous times, just get passed from one to another.
View 2 RepliesChrysler - Sebring :: Water Bubbles In The Radiator And Heat Builds Immediately After Start Up
My friend's 04 Sebring (6cyl) is overheating. After start up, almost immediately the water bubbles in the radiator and heat builds. He has replaced the radiator, thermostat, water pump, and even rebuilt the heads - still the overheating issue. What may be the problem and how to correct?
View 2 RepliesSebring - Chrysler - Fans - Airconditioning :: 1999 - Fan Speed Lost Control In Both Heat And A/C Settings?
Have lost all fan speed control in both hot/A/C settings. Resistor pack checks out okay. Fan runs when voltage applied direct to it. Have +12v into r-pack. Fuse (inside) okay. The fan speed is controlled by adding resistance between Fan & ground. Thermal cutout part on R-pack okay. How do I test out the relay (in engine compartment), and could that even be the prob? Will look at dash switch next. Any schematic for this?
View 2 RepliesChevrolet - Beretta :: 1994 - Stalls In Hot Weather Due To High Heat And Humidity
I continue to have problems with my Chevy Beretta. The original problem was that -- after my neice's husband ran the car out of gas -- we had to replace the fuel filter. That was last spring. Afterward the car seemed to run fine until the weather got hot. Now it seems to stall generally in high heat and humidity.
I only paid $800 for the car, and my idea was to get everything fixed on it and drive it a while to get my money out of it. I don't want to go into debt for a car, and I don't want to buy another one (unless I have to). I travel a lot, but I don't need my car for work -- just for personal travel.
A local mechanic has changed the crankshaft position sensor and now the ignition module. I got the car out of the shop again yesterday, but the problem remains. I could barely drive it around the block this evening. The temperature is 73F, humidity is 84%, and dewpoint is 68.
Is this problem definitely weather related? What could be the cause? Vapor lock? An intermittent problem with the fuel pump, filters, or fuel injector? Is it possible to get this fixed for good?
Civic - Honda :: 1994 - No Heat During City Driving But Fine When Get On Highway
I have a 1994 Honda Civic LX. It has a new 4 month old radiator and the fluid level is good. When I do in city driving I have no real heat to speak of. But when I get on the highway the heat kicks back in.
View 5 RepliesFord A/C :: 1994 - Replaced Thermostat / Heater Core And Water Pump Still No Heat?
the only thing that is left to replace would be the radiator?my truck is a 1994 f150 and it is not overheating!i get lukewarm heat only on the highway,everywhere else it is cold air!!this new england weather is killing me
View 10 RepliesHyundai - Xg350 :: Heat And AC Just Randomly Turn Off And Turn Back On
Recently my heat/ ac will just randomly turn off and turn back on whenever it feels like it, and also when i try to lower or raise the temp it changes cd player to the tuner to aux and so on ... Its a 2002 hyundai xg350l
View 2 RepliesChrysler - Towncountry :: Minivan Engine Cuts Off When Turn Right
I have a 2007 Chrysler T & C minivan. The engine cuts off while driving. Most frequently while turning (to the right!). My mechanic found a loose battery terminal. Nope. Next he suspected the ignition switch which has been a problem with other model years. Nope. Now he wants to try the cam shaft? What could cause it to just die during a right turn? and very frequently.
View 3 RepliesChrysler - Ptcruiser :: 2001 - Turn Signals Not Blinking
I just changed the multi-function switch on my 2001 PT Cruiser, because someone suggested it since my turn signals were not blinking or clicking. The turn signals come on, but do not blink or make that clicking sound at all. They just stay on. The hazards do not blink or click either. Lights and all work fine. It's just the turn signals and hazards that do not. What else controls the clicking and blinking of the turn signals and flashers. Could it be the relay that's inside the multi-function switch? I'm almost 100% sure we checked all the fuses, but I could be missing something.
View 1 Replies