Buick - Lucerne :: 2006 - Can't Open Rear Door
I've seen posts about this problem online, but no one has listed a good fix. There seem to be LOTS of '06 Lucernes with back doors that won't open. It is not a child door lock issue as the customer has no kids needing such protection, and the door should open from the outside anyway.
I need to remove the inner door panel, but can't figure out how to do that with the door closed. Once the door panel is off, I can probably see what's going on inside, and maybe fix it.
Buick - Lucerne :: 2007 - Horn Relay Location?
Where is the horn relay for a 2007 Buick Lucerne?
View 3 RepliesBuick - Lucerne :: New AC Compressor Won't Engage Low Pressure Showed 90 Lbs?
Installed new compressor, condenser, drier... Local shop wanted to charge $140 just to evac. Bought vacuum pump and gauges/hoses. Evaced the system, held -30 for 45 minutes. Started car and proceeded to add freon... Compressor would not engage. Low pressure showed 90lbs but would not take any more and compressor wouldn't engage...
View 7 RepliesBuick - Lucerne :: 2006 - How To Stop Any Corrosion From Occurring
I have a 2006 Buick Lucerne. The wheels were losing chrome and were oxidizing. I just bought some new "Koenig Unknown" wheels for it. I took it to the local shop to have the new wheels put on And one of the tires had some bad scuffing on the sidewall. The mechanic said it was too much damage on the tire and that he could not mount it on the new rim. So, I took it home and did it myself.
The duct tape that I used under on the flat bar was not sufficient and I ended up putting some rather deep nicks on the edge of the new rim. Though you cannot see it them unless you look very close, I know that these digs can be sources of corrosion. The lip of the rims are a polished mirror-like aluminum finish. I am sure they have some clearcoat on them and that is what I have damaged. How I can fix them to prevent any corrosion from happening.
Buick - Lucerne :: Car Bounced More Than Once - Air Compressor Runs For 5 Seconds?
I just put new rear air shocks on my Buick Lucerne. I noticed the back in my car bounced more than once when I tested them. After starting the car I hear the air compressor run for about five seconds. This seems to have no effect on my new shocks. The old shocks had holes in the bladder. What tests can I perform to figure out what's wrong?
View 8 RepliesBuick - Lucerne :: 2006 - Shakes When It Rattles And Rolls
2006 Buick Lucerne... I have been experiencing this for about 12 months… But now I have new tires that have been balanced twice by two separate shops. I'm still getting a wobble from the right front at about 65 miles an hour. The original tire on the right front has outside wear about half way around the tire. It seems very strange… Half of the outside of the tire is down to the cord the other half has some tread remaining… It's like something is shaking it up and down…
View 11 RepliesBuick - Lucerne :: 2007 - Won't Start - Alternator / Battery?
My wife's 2007 Buick Lucerne wouldn't start the other day after sitting maybe 20 minutes with the headlights on. She had to call AAA for a jump start. It starts fine now. I took it to an autoparts store, the battery shows 90% life left. Brought it home, charged in 10 minutes using my car charger. My question is, what could cause the car not to start so easily? I am skeptical the battery was the culprit. How can I check the alternator, etc? Any other thoughts?
View 9 RepliesBuick - Lucerne :: Hyper Turn Signal Starts Blinking On And Off Very Quickly
My wife's 2007 Buick Lucerne's directional signal is acting odd... When you turn it to the left-hand blinker, the pace is not the normal factory pace. After two or three cycle it then starts blinking on and off VERY quickly, like those blinkers you see on junkers periodically. The right blinker is normal pace as are the hazards lights. I am looking for potential causes before I bring it in for repair. I can't say anything trigger it, other than I noticed it after a car wash. Electrical problems are not my thing.
View 5 RepliesBuick - Lucerne :: 2006 - Squeaking Noise From Steering Wheel / Column
I bought a one-owner, 50,000 mile Buick Lucerne in February. Yesterday I heard a squeaking noise from the steering wheel/column and it is there today. Does this mean I need to lubricate or replace the lower seal on the steering shaft?
View 2 RepliesBuick - Century :: 2003 - Draining Battery In Night?
2003 Buick Century draining fully charged battery overnight. Have tried almost everything and cant figure it out. The high blower is not working either and I am wondering if a short in that can cause the battery to drain? Changed fuses, alternator, searched for shorts, an so on. Cannot find location of the blower.
View 3 RepliesBuick - Lesabre :: 1995 Air Conditioner - When Accelerate Air Stops Blowing From Vents
I've got a 1995 Buick LeSabre that has a curious problem with the air conditioner. The AC blows good and cold, but when I accelerate the air stops blowing from the vents. I can still hear the fan running, so it's like the air is being redirected somewhere. Now, once I get up to speed after accelerating, if I let off the accelerator for a second, the AC resumes blowing normally.
View 5 RepliesJeep - Commando :: 1973 - Fuel Is Draining Back Down Into Gas Tank
I have a 73 commando and if it sits for a couple of days the glass fuel filter goes dry and I have to pump and pump the accelerator to get it to start. I guess the fuel is draining back down into the gas tank. Had a carb kit put in. Go to a electric pump?
View 2 RepliesAccent LC (2000-05) :: Coolant Tank Filling But Not Draining Back Into Radiator
Having an issue with my 03' Accent. I'm having an issue of my coolant tank filling up but it is not being drawn back into the radiator when the engine cools down. I have replaced the radiator with a new unit because the filler neck of the original radiator was damaged sometime in the past and the cap would not seal good enough to hold pressure . Looks like heat damage to me but I don't know for sure. The system now holds pressure but now I'm having the current issue. My first thought was a head gasket issue creating pressure in the system and forcing coolant into the tank.
The car has 155k miles and runs good overall and is not overheating. I performed a "block check" test using the chemical method that detects combustion gasses in the cooling system and that test was negative. I also pressure tested the system by pressurizing to 16 psi and was unable to detect any leaks anywhere on the engine / radiator and the pressure did not drop until I released it. I guess the next thing to try will be a compression test to see if I have any low cylinders. So, for whatever reason my cooling system is not creating enough of a vacuum to draw the coolant back into the radiator when it cools down. Does this sound like a head gasket issue? The pic is of the original radiator filler neck damage.
Jeep - Cherokee :: 1990 - Liquid Moving Noise / Oil Draining Back To Pan
1990 Cherokee 4 L str 6 cyl
after shutting my jeep down I ve heard liquid moving. I decided to find the source. it turns out that I was hearing the oil draining back into the pan.
I was under the jeep with my ear next to the pan, no doubt of source.
this lasted about 15- 30 seconds before stopping. the front of the jeep was raised about 6", as I had parked it that way.is this concerning?
I was recently going to change my valve/rocker arm cover gasket, but decided to wait because it did not seem to be leaking and I did not want to use the inexpensive cork fel pro gasket that I had bought, I decided to wait until I could afford the more expensive gasket.
I did notice thru my oil fill cap that there is a lot of crud under the cover and I am concerned that my oil return drains are partially clogged.how can I clean these drains when I do change the gasket? since it has been strongly recommended here that I do not disturb the crud I m not sure how I should approach this. could vaccuming the loose crud with a shop vac be okay?
ps. dropping the oil pan is not an option right now because of the extensive labor involved on this model and the expense of all the new seals and gaskets required. I ve bought 200 bucks worth of parts and fluids this month and it will be awhile before I can afford more.
right now I have brake shoes, tranny filter and fluid, above gasket, oil and oil and fuel filters waiting on me to work on, and other non mechanical things.
to summarize my questions...
1) does noisy oil drainage concern you?2)how can I clean oil drains?
a. can I pour kerosene thru to clean oil drains, and to flush oil pan, which I can t drop right now?
b. can I shop vac under the valve cover?
c. should I add sea foam to oil for a bit before changing?
Ford Fuel System :: 1976 F150 - Fuel Draining All The Way Back To Tank
My vehicle:
1976 F150 2wd Extended cab
390 4bbl
c6 transmission
4BBL Edlebrock Carb
Dual fuel tanks, only rear main tank connected
My problem: For the first year I owned the truck, everything ran fine and it started up really quickly even after it sat for a few days or a few weeks. I have since, for about the last year or so, had to crank it for 30-45 seconds to get it to start. This all started around the time my fuel pump went out. I replaced it with an Airtex fuel pump from Autozone. I also installed a glass in line filter before the carb in front of the distributor.
I noticed that after about 4-6 hours, the fuel had drained out of the filter and that's when I would have to crank it forever to get it going. It also seems like there is no fuel in the carb as it doesn't even try to start when it first gets cranked. I thought this was a bad pump, so I bought a new one last week and tried it again. Sure enough after about 4-6 hours, everything is empty again and it takes forever to start it. So it's not a bad pump, or so I think.
The other day I backed it into my driveway and left it, something I never do. I checked about 4 days later and there was still fuel in the filter. This makes me think that gravity is making it drain back to the tank.
Is there something that would cause this? Also I have found a one way fuel check valve online that is supposed to remedy this type of problem. Do they work for this situation? Or is there something else I should be doing to fix this? It has taken a bit of a toll on my starting system having to crank so long all the time. I have so far had to replace my starter, starter solenoid, and all the battery cables, starter cable, terminals, etc. due to excessive wear.
The valve I found is here : [URL] .....
LeSabre :: 1999 Buick Not Start Back Up While Pulling Into A Parking Lot
I have a 99 Buick LeSabre and it died while I was pulling into a parking lot. It wouldn't start back up. I tried listening for the fuel pump and nothing. It's not priming or making any noise. Once I got it home I replaced the fuel pump relay. Still nothing so then I changed the fuel pump. Still nothing. I'm stumped. I'm going to check all the wires tonight to make sure I got them on right. Is there any other relay or fuse on these cars that I can check?
View 3 RepliesBuick - Regal :: 1995 - Back Up Lights Never Come On When Either Shifting Into Reverse Or Through It
I recently worked with a friend get a '95 regal custom 3.1 with 178k miles and the only issue I cant figure out on my own is that the back up lights never come on when either shifting into reverse or through it. I've checked all of the fuses and replaced the bulbs and still not even a flicker.
I have researched online a bit and my only idea is it could be the back-up light switch/neutral position switch.. Would that be an accurate guess? And if so where at on the vehicle would that switch be located?
Buick - Lesabre :: Cuts Off When Start Driving And Cranks Right Back Up
I was wondering my buick a 1995 lasbre it cranks up fine and the engine light comes on and off when i start driving it cuts off and cranks right back up people say its the crank sensor...
View 1 RepliesBuick - Lesabre :: Parking Brake Pedal Doesn't Come Back All The Way
I have a 2000 Buick Lesabre with 226k and my parking/E-brake annoys me. The brake isn't stuck or anything, but the pedal doesn't come back all the way, at least not enough to turn off the brake light or accompanying dinging. Most of the time, the cable is disconnected from the pedal to keep the light and dinging off unless I have to use it. Is there any way to adjust the parking brake to get the pedal to fully return or is there something else wrong with the system?
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