Prius (2004-09) :: 2005 - Remote Central Locking Not Working?
My 2005 Prius has today developed a fault, the central locking won't open or close with either of the remote key fobs. I allowed for a strange coincidence that the batteries in both fobs could die at the very same time and replaced one, still not working. The mini-key in the fob will open/close the central locking (all doors plus rear hatch). But of course the alarm would sound as soon as I opened the door, inserting the fob into the "ignition" socket and starting the car silenced the alarm after about 30 seconds, but the remote fobs still won't operate the central locking or activate the alarm.
View 5 RepliesCamry :: 2005 - Central Locking Will Refuse To Lock The Doors Occasionally
I have been having problems on and off with my central locking for a while now with my 05' Toyota Camry Altise. 95% of the time it works perfectly, however occasionally the central locking will refuse to lock the doors, chirping at me twice as if a door is open. I know that all of the door switches are working fine so this isn't the cause of the problem.
I believe it may have something to do with the fact that I had to replace my driver side door a while ago, and that now the actuator may not be working properly or misaligned and jamming. What should I be looking for to make sure this doesn't occur? I thought it all went back in perfectly. Interestingly I can get around the problem by turning the ignition on and off and trying again.
Prius (2004-09) :: Hybrid System Isn't Working Properly
I have a 2004 bought in 2003. It recently logged its first 100k miles. My problem with it is not easy to describe. It is actually running more like a non-hybrid car. I can feel and tell the hybrid system is operational, and I can hear the electric motor whine when coasting, down, etc. However, I don't think it is running as it should or as it used to. It happened on highway while cruising about 70 mph. I hit the accelerator to pass someone, and I felt that something changed. I'll try to describe it: think of a half-clogged pipe. The water can barely gets past the obstruction. You keep applying pressure, and suddenly the clog dissolves under pressure, and water begins to flow freely, and the pressure goes down. So it felt like that. Now the accelerator pedal is lighter, car is faster to respond, yet I think something is wrong because the car isn't itself anymore.
I don't like problems like these because they are very difficult to diagnose, let alone fix. For a while I also have not heard the inverter pump whine after shutting the car off as I did in the past, but the last time I got out of the car today I heard it. I believe it was replaced five years ago after a collision with a Trailblazer wiped out half of the front end ( but with no power train damage). I checked the VIN for the inverter pump campaign, but my VIN was not in the range.
Right now my problem is that the car feels a lot faster than it has ever been. When I lift off the accelerator, it doesn't begin to coast as it used to. No warning light of any kind out of the ordinary is present on the dash, although it did have the red triangle on during start up with a message about the parking gear not being engaged properly. That warning went away after the change in performance occurred. Related?
I guess I will take it to the dealer to see if there are any codes stored. After my 30 mile commute this morning, no whining, buzzing or any kind of noise was present after I shut off the car and I got out. There is still no warning light.
Tiguan :: Central Locking From Key Fob
Every VW I've owned has incorporated a central locking feature (i.e. - You hold the key in the off position, and it closes the windows and sunroof). Does our car not have that option? I though I heard somewhere that if you hold the alarm set button in the key fob that it'll close everytihgn, but that doesn't work.
View 9 RepliesPassat (B5) :: How To Get The Windows To Go Up With Central Locking
I was wondering if it's possible to get my windows to all close when I press my central locking on my Passat? It's a 2001 B5.5 model with front and rear electric windows. Is it possible and if so how?
View 6 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: Where To Change Central Locking Settings
I am trying to set my locking system so that one touch on the remote (lock or unlock) will control both doors and the hatch, instead of having selective unlocking; I can't find this in the MFD menus, and I can't seem to access Controller 46 through VCDS, or anywhere else I'd expect to find that function. but where to change this setting?
View 22 RepliesGolf IV R32 :: Boot / Tailgate Not Opening With Central Locking
I'm having some problems with my tailgate (boot) handle. At the moment the boot 'intermittently' works with the central locking. If it doesn't unlock then I have to use the keyfob to open/close a few times before the handle opens the boot. Fortunately it works every time with the key. I must stress that I've never used the key in the boot. The boot lock is set to work with the opening/closing of the central locking. So this problem is NOT user error.
I have posted some pictures of the problem I've now seen with the mechanism. Ok so in the above picture, you can see that I've put a black arrow pointing at the 'latch' in it's correct position.
When you operate the central locking via the keyfob (or inside the car), it pushes the electrical popper (to the left) which rotates the mechanism CLOCKWISE, and in doing so, it pushes the LATCH across so that it can connect with the boot handle
In the following picture, you can see how the 'LATCH' isn't moving across to the position in the first pic. This is why my boot can't open with the central locking.
I must make clear that the electric popper is doing the job as it should. There is nothing wrong with it's function. The problem is the latch is not rotating (clockwise) into it's correct position. It can be moved by hand easily.
The problem could be solved by attaching a spring to the latch, so it pulls downwards. But I cannot understand why or what has stopped it from working as it should. The latch moves fine if you use the key in the lock, so at the moment, the only way to make it open is either open/close the central locking 10times, or use the car key.......
Touareg :: Nav System Isn't Working Properly
I have had my T-Reg for 2 weeks now, and absolutely love it! However, there are some strange things I have found with the Nav System that are just a bit annoying.
1) Not all cities are on the CD. This is obvious - they can't put *all* the cities on, but there has been more than one occassion where the city I needed was not in there. For instance, I tried to find "Centerville, VA" but the Nav System only knew "Clifton, VA" (I guess they are the same), which ultimately became "Fairfax, VA." I didn't realize it was "Clifton" until I arrived there (following a map) and saw a sign.
2) There are two sections of major roads that I travel (Rte. 95 and Rte. 66) where the Nav system stops giving me directions to my destination. It tracks my position on the map as I am driving, so I know I have a fix on at least 3 satellites, but when I press the "i" button for my next cue, it says something like "Routing to your destination is not available from this location." The blue line on the display that shows where I should be going also is missing. Once I exit either of these major roads (in the areas that this occurs) the Nav System resumes guidance.
3) The map display on the Nav System is always "behind" by 10 or 15 seconds. When I cross a roadway, the map doesn't indicate my crossing until a good 10 or 15 seconds later, depending on my speed. The turn-by-turn display and voice prompts are *dead on*, it is just the map that isn't.
Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2001 - Intermittent Central Door Locking Failure
I have an accent 2001 saloon which I bought a few months back. Turned out to be a real bargain but the door locking feature is really irritating. It will work 2-3 times in a row then stop for the rest of the day. The next day it works first thing but may not work again for several hours. Then 2-3 times in a row .. yeah you guessed it - the dreaded intermittent fault.
Now, the door handle inside the door has broken (plastic piece has snapped) so I am fitting a new one. Thought it might be a good idea, while I am at it, to have a look inside the door. I took out the whole door lock mechanism - see photo 1. Having found I could get it out, I put it back pending a bit of advice.
I presume that there is some sort of electric-powered actuator or solenoid or whatever, that locks all the doors from the drivers side. Is the piece I am talking about, the close up in photo 2?
If so, (or not) what is the likely fault here, and what can I do about it? I have put some WD 40 spray into the locks and eased them a bit. Otherwise not sure what to change/replace.
Accent LC (2000-05) :: Alarm Goes Off Intermittently And Central Locking Engages Without Warning
I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent. The factory alarm goes off intermittently and the central locking engages at times without warning.
I took it to an Auto Electrician who checked it over but couldn't work out the problem. So i took it to the dealer who said it was most likely the bonnet sensor. I wasn't convinced but they went ahead and charged $150 to diagnose and adjust the sensor and said everything would be fine.
Within one day of being 'fixed' the problem has reappeared. I am getting sick of disconnecting a battery terminal every night....
Ford A/C :: 1993 - Air Conditioning System Won't Working Properly?
Last year I literally replaced the entire A/C system in my 93 F150. (The compressor, the hoses and the evaporator were leaking and I toyed with converting it to 134A so I went ahead and replaced the condenser and all the rest of the parts. I ended up putting R12 back in it since I have a tank.)
I replaced everything, added oil, pulled a vacuum, leak tested it, and charged it back with 2.75 lbs of R12. The A/C worked then (and now) but it was not really cold. I got busy and did not have time to trouble shoot it until this weekend and the pressures and clutch cycle times were withing spec according to the repair manual - air was in the low 90's so the clutch was on constantly, low side pressure in the low 40s and high side in the 180s. The inside center vent air temperature never got below 60 after about a half hour of running on max. It eventually gets the inside temperature cool but not very quickly and certainly not enough to make me take it off high.
I thought maybe the blend door was not closing so I took the glove box apart and can hear the blend door slamming in both the full cold and full hot positions so unless the door has a hole in it or there is some other path around the heater core, I don't think this is the problem. I also double checked the orifice tube and I had used the blue one that again the repair manual calls for. What could be keeping the A/C from working???
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Driver Door Controls For Central Locking Does Not Unlock The Doors
I have a sante fe which has problems (suspect multiple) with central locking , intermittently locking itself - very annoying - even driving down the road.
Drivers door controls for central locking unlock button does not unlock the doors - button just doesn't do anything. Lock button works fine. In addition window controls on drivers door dont work - only control that works is the one for the drivers door.
Final piece of the puzzle - the red light in the drivers door does not work either nor does the drivers door button panels light up. Starting to wonder is there a fuse or quirky power supply problem somewhere.
Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Loud Buzz Comes From Nearside Front Door / Noisy Central Locking
Every time car is locked, a very loud buzz comes from the nearside front door. I have had the problem for over a year - the locking still works, but clearly something is wrong.
View 5 RepliesFord F-150 (2009-2014) :: AC System Is Not Working Properly / Only Blowing Air Same Temp As Outside
Been having an issue lately with the AC system on my 2010 4.6L F150. The AC system is not working properly and is only blowing air the same temp as outside. In other words, if its 60 degrees in the morning the AC will blow cool, but later in the day its blowing warm. Pushes air no problem, but living in Florida, it's mainly warm air. Compressor clutch is kicking on and off fairly rapidly when on max AC setting (5-10 seconds on, then 5-10 seconds off). Hooked up gauge to low pressure side and the readings were 60psi WITH compressor on, then fell to 30psi when the compressor turns off. Where to start? Haven't done too many AC fixes before. Potentially a bad compressor? Overcharged lines?
View 7 RepliesVolvo - Xc60 :: 2013 - Mirror Memories Associated With Keyless (PCC) System Not Working Properly
I have purchased a new 2013 XC60 and the seat and mirror memories associated with my keyless Personal Car Communicator (PCC) system are not working properly and the dealer is apparently at a loss as to how to fix it. What is even worse, Volvo's documentation on the capability is contradictory and no one from Volvo (including National Tech Support) is able to explain how it is supposed to work.
The total problem is much too complicated to explain here in detail, but basically the driver's seat and side rear view mirrors do not respond to the PCC (key fob) in a predictable manner. One time use of a particular PCC will result in the seat and mirrors going to one location, and the next time they will go to a different location. Use of the buttons on the PCC will produce one result and use of the keyless capability with the same PCC will produce a different result.
I have determined that the settings saved in the seat memory buttons (there are 3 of them) sometimes play a part in where the seat and mirrors go when the PCC is used despite the Volvo documentation insisting that these memories are separate from each other.
Volvo Tech Support insists that they have no history of problems in this area but discussions with other customers, and even some of the Volvo sales people, make it clear that I am not the only one experiencing these issues.
Although the memory settings would normally just be considered a convenience option, I have found the issue to be a safety concern. On more than one occasion I was on the road before realizing that my rear view mirrors were pointed off in space somewhere and I could not use them to make a safe lane change or other maneuver.
A side observation is that the computer based functions in the car appear sluggish and seem many times to operate with a lag. I know that this car contains almost two dozen processor modules and maybe this topic deserves a separate thread, but it is as if the communications network is very slow or the modules are slow in waking up. I'm wondering if this is involved with the unpredictable seat and mirror memory operation.
I would like to hear from others who have had or are having similar problems.
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Audio And Navigation System Aren't Working Properly
When i purchased the yaris ZR they had none with the Suna Audio and navigation system so they said they will ship the device in and then install it when they finally had it.... So I was driving this one around with the default device in or awhile. Everything was working fine, audio, messaging, calling and listen for a while. Everything was working fine, audio, messaging, calling and listening to podcasts ad audiobooks through apps on my phone. I am using the Samsung Galaxy S5 Everything has been updated and using all relevant updated software.
When they said it was finally in, i brought my car in and after a few issues and shipping the wrong parts I finally got it. (I was driving the latest Corolla in the meantime)
Bluetooth is cutting out every 2 minutes (and halfway through at about 1 minute there is a glitchy/pause/lag) .... It keeps saying something like "Connection with the mobile telephone has been disconnected" and my audio stops playing. It takes about 15 seconds to reconnect. And then i have to push the Audio power button twice to get back to listening to my media. Phone is fully charged, and plugged in. There are no distractions from anything else (The Original old device that came with it never did this). You can't play audio via USB with an android device on either this one or the old one so that option is out.
Messaging is not working - Worked fine in the old/original device on the Yaris and the Corollas I was using, when i got a text, it beeped and read it out - and i could quick reply with automated messages (if the car was not moving). Now, when I try to load them a message just stays on this screen for about 5 minutes then disappears - nothing happens. "Retrieving messages please wait....."
Ford - Ranger :: 2000 - Anti-lock Braking System Is Not Working Properly?
My 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4 truck's anti-lock braking system is not working properly. When I slow down for a stop my anti-lock brakes kick in every time for about 1 or 2 seconds. What can I do to stop this from happening.
View 2 RepliesLexus LS 2007+ :: 2008 600hl Heating System For Interior Not Working Properly When Extremely Cold Outside
Last spring i purchased an 08 600hl. This is my first winter with this car and I have come across an issue. when it is extremely cold like it has been for the past few days the heating system for the interior of the car does not seem to be working properly. when i warm up the car and put on the heat it blows cold air. It is only when I am driving that the heat comes on. While i am driving at a moderate speed the heat works fine. However, when i drive slow, such as driving around a parking lot and its only running on hybrid battery power, it starts to blow cold air again. When i put the car in park and its only running off the battery i only blows cold air even on the "HI" temperature. I have the rev the engine to get the heat to kick in and then it will stay on. This is and issue or a normal behavior for this car.
View 6 RepliesPhaeton :: Central Diffuser Stopped Working
My central diffuser he stopped working, some one have some instructions, maybe fotos how to change this part??
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