Volvo :: 03 Xc90 - No Oil Pressure Stop Engine Safely Light Coming On
03 xc90 with 83k miles.
Its got the "no oil pressure stop engine safely" light coming on when it gets up to running temps.
I am having my mechanic drop the pan, clean for sludge and replace all the seals and O-rings.
Which O-rings need to be replaced. I read somewhere there are 5, I bought the set along with the volvo sealant but need to give exact instruction to my mechanic on which seals to replace (he is not a volvo guy) and I dont remember which ones.
Celica :: 1991 4A-FE Oil Pressure Warning Light Flicker Occasionally
1991 Celica ST 4A-FE automatic, 238,000 miles, son's car, has been running great, until he says his oil light occasionally flickers on him. Car is in Wisconsin, driven maybe 2 miles one way to work every day, hasn't been on the highway is a couple months. Has synthetic 5W-30 oil with about 2,000 miles since last change.
Brought the car into the garage. Sure enough, after engine warmed up and idle got below 1,000 RPM, oil pressure warning lamp would come on. Engine sounded normal at idle and fast idle. Tough to put a mechanical pressure gauge on this engine (after to remove the alternator and A/C compressor and bracket, per the service manual, to access the oil pressure switch). I drove it on the highway, put about 40 miles on it, ran great, until I exited the highway. Anything below 1200 RPM, oil pressure warning light would come on.
Came home, removed the oil filter with intent to change it (to make sure it wasn't plugged). Smelled of gas. Oh-Oh. Drained the oil (oil level was at full mark, unusual for this vehicle, normally would be 1/2-quart low after 2,000 miles - 2 months of winter driving). Oil came out with consistency of water. Smelled of gas, and could see water droplets as I switch the drained oil from a collection pan into a jug. Thought was many short trips caused oil to never get hot enough to burn off unburned fuel blow-up or accumulated moisture, so oil was diluted, much too low viscosity.
Changed oil & filter with synthetic 5W-30 & Purolator PureOne oil filter. Took it back on the highway for 40 miles again. Highway drive was fine. Upon exiting, oil pressure warning light came on at 1,600 RPM or below. Oh-Oh. Had another 40 miles on the highway to get home. Highway drive was good again. Upon existing, oil pressure warning light came on again at 1,800 RPM or lower. Oh-Oh.
Worrying that the oil pump for pressure by-pass valve or of bearing spin-out or extreme wear (although engine sounded fine all the time), decided to order an OEM oil pressure switch. Had to take some of the bolt-ons off to access the oil pressure switch, but not all the service manual said had to come off. Took the old oil pressure switch out - looked just fine. Installed the new one, put everything back together. Checked to make sure the oil pressure warning light still came on with key in the ON position (it did), so I knew the wiring connections were good. Startup was fine (cold engine). Took it on the highway for 40 miles, after exiting highway, no more oil pressure warning light. Even tested the situation with the automatic in drive, brake applied, lights on high-beam, heater fan on high, rear window defroster on (got the engine down to 600 RPM), still not oil pressure warning light. Turned engine off, then turned ignition key to ON, oil pressure warning light comes on like it should.
Volvo :: Check Engine Light Blink But Never Got Steady / Fuel Pressure Error Code
I had a Check Engine Light a couple months ago, and I took the car to the garage to have it checked out. They told me they got a Fuel Pressure Sensor malfunction code, and that the sensor had to be replaced. I did so myself, an it is ridiculously easy, and the car worked fine. I noticed the Check Engine Light blinked a couple of times while I was driving, but never got steady. A couple of days ago, it did. Out of a bad gut-feeling, I purchased a ODBII scanner, and I scanned the car myself. I got the same error code as the garage did, but the sensor should be fine.
View 5 RepliesSanta FE SM (2001-06) :: Idle Really Low / Almost Stalling And Oil Pressure Light Flicker When Warmed Up
I bought the car 3 years ago 2003 2.4L Hyundai Santa fe , I have driven it around 200 miles ( to and from shops ), I am having an issue now where once the car is warmed up ( post 15 mins ) It will idle really low * almost stalling * and oil pressure light will flicker, If I hold the brake and get it to almost 800 - 1k RPM it goes off and driving is not an issue *no knock*. I just got it driving for the 1st time in the past year, and drove it for about 45 mins in stop an go traffic, Temp light was all the way to cold, once stopped in stop and go traffic it would go up half way, as soon as I could get above 50mph it would slowly work itself all the way to the bottom?
More Information
2003 2.4L Hyundai Santa fe
I should really count my losses and move on but I cant.
Bought the car with 89K on it I now have 90K
New Battery
New Radiator
New Motor mounts 3
New Trans mount 1
New Hoses
Oil Change ( 40 miles ago )
Trans Oil Change ( 40 miles ago )
Power Steering Fluid change ( 40 miles ago )
2nd cat delete ( didn't want to waste any more money )
After Market 1st Cat
Accent LC (2000-05) :: Oil Pressure Light Occasionally Flicker At Idle / Car Will Not Rev Past 5k
I picked up an 02' accent, 1.5l that i've been intending to use as a commuter car. Drove fairly well on the way back home, but it seems it's got some low oil pressure issues once it's good an hot. As the oil pressure light will occasionally flicker at idle, mind you the car is near dying too.
Or so I thought, it was also misfiring/stumbling fairly badly,
Pulled all connections, cleaned, dielectric grease on them, fixed some of it. And it turns out the fellow who did the timing belt last didn't exactly remember to put the bolts back on the fuel rail.... Okay, that's fixed now.
Put in a little heavier oil, and no more issues with the light coming on, but I do have some lifter noise it seems like.
As well, the car will not rev past 5k in neutral or under load. Air filter is new, and no obstructions through to the intake manifold.
I'd guess based on the missing bolts here and there, the guy was a bit of a hackjob mechanic and i'm guessing has the belt out a tooth or so.... I can't see anywhere to stick a timing light on to verify ignition timing, how to check the timing belt is straight up? It's a bit of a dog compared to the other accent i've been in. The power band is like 2000-3500 and it just won't climb anywhere past that.
Volvo S70 :: 2000 - Can't Remove Ignition Key When Engine Is Warm
2000 Volvo S70, 177K - This car is new to me, and shortly after purchasing it, I began having difficulty removing the ignition key when arriving at a destination. With the transmission in Park, and the engine shut off, the key just won't come out. Then again, sometimes there's no problem at all. Oddly, the problem seems to correlate with the cabin/engine temp. If I allow the car to cool off, then go back to it in a half hour, the key will usually come right out. Same thing with short trips. I'm fortunate so far that I've not been in any high crime areas where leaving the key would be risky; but I will need to solve this eventually.
I understand that there's a safety switch/sensor that ensures the vehicle is in Park before the key can be removed, and I've tried being a bit more "forceful" in shifting to P, but that doesn't seem to work. I'll be taking this to my mechanic anyway for a state safety inspection followup; are there any hints I can give him if I can't figure it out myself?
Is the temperature factor suggestive that the problem is in the transmission sensor? I'd prefer that the issue be a sensor or adjustment rather than in the ignition switch just to avoid the re-keying mess.
Stalling :: 1994 Volvo 240 Stalls At Idle When Engine Is Warm
My 1994 volvo 240 stalls at idle when the engine is warm. It's happening more frequently as the weather gets colder, I'm not sure if that's a coincidence. The car is an automatic and I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as low transmission fluid.
View 1 RepliesVolvo - 850 :: Noise When Engine Is Cold But Once Warm, Much Valve Clicking
Our 1997 850GL wagon with 160k miles has persisently noisy valves. At considerable cost, we replaced the hydraulic valve lifters with new ones from Volvo. Noise persists. Increased oil viscosity, now at a ridiculous 15W40. Also using an oil additive to further increase viscosity. Little if any noise when engine is cold but once warm, much valve clicking. We change oil religiously and keep oil topped up.
View 7 RepliesPassat (B5) :: Low Oil Pressure Light On After Warm Up
oil light on after warm up. 15 psi at idle, 23 psi at 2500 rpm . will get as high as 28 psi at any rpm above 3500 but no higher. heard of the sludge problem so i added flush and changed oil using amsoil 5w40. this did not change the pressures. when i drained the oil , i poked a wire in the drain hole to try to see if i could drag some sludge out but there did not seem to be any there.
I am thinking the oil screen may be clogged with some harder deposits which would require removal of the oil pan.does this all sound reasonable and what kind of difficulty is the oil pan job. it looks rather tight. this is a 1999 passat 1.8 t with a/t.
One other thought: this vehicle just had a head job after a timing belt break. the valves were replaced etc. i wonder if that could have affected the chain driven oil pump?
Volvo - S70 :: 2000 - No Oil Pressure Going To Engine
The volvo dealer states they do not know why there is no oil pressure going to engine. First they stated needed reset valve then new oil pump but neither was the issue. Now they state "internal problem within engine". So either have to take engine completely apart to diagnose or replace entire engine. The car has been maintained religiously and is in mint condition. Love my car but not sure what to do next. Thought of towing to independent mechanic for second opinion?
View 19 RepliesPassat (B5) :: Engine Would Crank But Won't Go On - Battery Light Occasionally Flicker
I was putting in a subwoofer earlier today, and after I put everything back together, I turned the ignition to ON just to test out the system, and all the electronics worked fine.
However, when I went to crank the engine, nothing would happen, not even a click or crank. I tried jump starting the car, and it would crank and crank and crank, but wouldn't go on. All the electronics still worked fine, but the EPC light, CEL, and battery light would be solid. While cranking, the battery light would occasionally flicker.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: New HPOP / Low Pressure Oil Light Would Come On After Warm Up
Just replaced the hpop on my 04' 6.0. It had been down for about a year because my low pressure oil light would come on after warm up. Truck ran PERFECT, but dam light would come on. Eventually it wouldn't start by cranking, but would on a bump. (I have a 6spd.) still ran good. I would never run it over 5 minutes because i didn't want to damage anything. Finally getting around to fix it.
After a day of air testing, we tracked it down to hpop. (air coming out of turbo drain tube). I had a hunch that the dam bb on pump had spit out from similar stories on FTE, and thats what happened.
Replaced pump. (its an older style pump BTW, although i have a january 04 build and every ford parts guy said differently.) Put everything back together and now it runs terrible! We ran the truck for over 20 minutes and it didn't get better. I am afraid its gonna damage something to keep running it. My mechanic says 5 cylinders are misfiring and its something to do with the ficm or injector harness.... But, it ran perfect right before the hpop change???? Everything was double checked to make sure it wasn't something dumb.
Volvo :: 850 - Tappets Making Noise And Oil Pressure Light Flickering
Recently I overhauled the engine put new rod bearing and had it bored and honed. As well as new pistons. when i first started it, it ran fairly good except for the tappets making noise but i thought this was normal. after 40 miles the tappets were still making noise and the oil light began flickering. I replaced the oil pan o rings with no luck. i also took the pump apart to check that and still nothing. I have a feeling a main bearing might have been put in the wrong spot. What should i do next to confirm this? what should i do from this point on?
View 4 RepliesSanta FE SM (2001-06) :: Engine Oil Light Flicker When Pulling Up At Roundabouts Or Junctions
100k 2.0D .... Recently when pulling up at roundabouts or junctions either at low speed or quite rapidly, the engine oil light flickers. This doesn't happen at all on idle no matter how high it is revved and never while speeding up or at high speeds. I have tried to narrow the time it happens and just ended up being confusing because it can happen slowing down while in gear with engine under strain or to a lesser extent while coasting with g/box in neutral at idle speed.
The engine oil and filter has been changed but to no avail (as expected). I could check the oil pressure sender and wiring but it doesn't make sense as why the fault is not sporadic and quite consistent when it happens. (Also I did look at trying to remove the sender unit and possible fitment of a pressure gauge but how the *BEEP* do you get any tools to that!). I did mention it to a friend who knows a pair of mechanics at a local garage who both straight away went *ooooh sounds like big end bearings!!*
Volvo :: 2006 XC90 2.5T - No Oil Pressure / Stop Engine Message On Dashboard
I am a new Volvo XC90 owner/fan. The issue is my lovely 2006 XC90 2.5T started to show the bizarre 'No Oil Pressure. Stop Engine.' dash board message red color.
First things I checked right after seeing that message.
Engine oil level - FINE (actually full).
Engine oil - CLEAN and recently replaced.
I drove 100 miles and the weather was peaceful 40f degrees (5c). The sign would come and off intermittently and stayed there for some time. We were luckily at the destination so we stopped the car and did our biz.
After a couple of hours we started the engine, drove a car, came back home driving 100 miles back without an issue.
But after a day, actually today, I saw the same message again. It was intermittently again and then would stay. If I restart the engine the message would go away but then would come back after sometime of driving.
So I called a couple of normal non-Volvo repair shops and they didn't know what the issue is and didn't even know why I would check the engine pressure. So OK pass.
I called Volvo dealer and he said if it is a 'low engine oil' message you can just top it up but if it is a 'engine pressure' message then the issue can be huge so he advised to tow the car in.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: High LPOP Pressure - 75 PSI With A Warm Engine
I noticed this evening that my low pressure oil pressure was much higher than normal. I have a LPOP gauge that typically reads 12 psi or so at idle This evening I was seeing 75psi with a warm engine. Every little acceleration pegged the gauge over 100psi.
The factory non-functioning gauge says that everything is normal.
I am about due for an oil change. I was thinking that I would change the oil and filter as soon as possible and temporarily plumb in my mechanical gauge to see if the high pressure reading is real or not. I replaced the stock LPOP about 3 years ago with a melling and everything has been golden up until now.
Celica :: 1992 GT - Oil Pressure Indicator Started To Flicker On And Off
So I just replaced the timing belt, water pump, power steering pressure line and all associated seals and gaskets including the oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket. I fired the car up and everything appeared to be fine so I decided the next step was a nice little drive just to make sure all was well.
Everything checked out until I was a couple hundred feet from my driveway when I stopped to talk to a neighbor the oil pressure light started to flicker on and off, occasionally it stayed on for a second or two. when I accelerate the light goes away. I have not put a pressure gauge on it yet.
For example lets just say the pressure is good??? then what??? and the oil pressure switch is brand new. the oil pump passed the inspection listed in the manual and the only thing I did that it didn't tell me to was assemble the oil pump with some assembly lube after changing the shaft seal and housing gasket.
Hyundai - Elantra :: 2001 - Engine Light Flicker / Sulfur Smell / Rough Running And Low Power
2001 hyundai Elantra 97000 mi. perfect on Thurs. Engine light flicker, sulfur smell, rough running, low power on Friday
First thought / hope, Bad gas? Had Filled up on Weds.... I added dry gas and FI Cleaner.
Second thought / fear Cat. Converter
Third . .. . ???
Volvo :: XC70 - ETS Light Is On And Check Engine Light Flashing
Have a Volvo XC70 and LOVE it! Recently ETS light came on and Check engine has always been on, mechanics did not seem to worried in past. As of the last month seemed to be issue with thermostat... Car would warm to normal when idling and driving below 25 mph... once I accelerated needle would drop and thermostat would go to baseline... Could feel faint warm air, but was only getting cold air coming from vents... Thought it might be thermostat stuck open?
Called my trusted mechanic and he recommended going to a radiator specialist, felt he might not be able to solve. Went to new shop today, after dropping off at 8am when they opened and not hearing from them until 4:45pm, 15 minutes before they close... Car is fixed, or so they say. Hot air is indeed coming out of vents and needle is staying where it should without falling...
BUT, now there is a strange smell (sulfur"ish") coming from the engine, and the car is shuddering and vibrating, bucking almost when car comes to a stop and then accelerates. ETS light is back on and check engine is now flashing!?! Tried going up hill on the way home and could not go faster than 20mph? None of this was happening before I took it in to the new shop today? They changed oil and oil filter and flushed radiater?