Volvo :: Boost Gauge Is Hitting Almost 1.5 Bar And Dropping To About 0.9 Bar?
I have recently purchased a c70 t5 which supposedly had been remapped. Anyway this weekend I changed the ICarScan unit and pipework, replaced the turbo vacuum lines and it has had a full service oil,plugs,rotor arm and cap etc. Prior to this it would occasionally pull aggressively and other times not. Now it boost all the time and feels good, however I noticed the boost gauge is now hitting almost 1.5 bar and dropping to about 0.9 bar. What could be causing this. In addition to the above work I removed the nasty badly modified inlet pipe and fitted an original between the air box and turbo. Which connection go where so I can ensure I am correct.
View 1 RepliesVolvo :: 1987 / 740 Turbo Has No Power On Boost
It starts and idles fine and drives fine until the turbo spools and gets past atmospheric.. at this point the acceleration gets worse even though you can clearly hear the turbo blowing (gauge well into the yellow).. checked the ground connections on the head and intake, seemed good, replaced tps, replaced knock sensor, replaced hall sensor, tried another ecu, checked cam timing. Had a volvo mechanic friend looking at it prior to my fiddling with it and he seemed to think the ignition timing was retarded too much.. but I've done everything i can think of to tackle that problem.
View 3 RepliesVolvo - Xc90 :: Electronics And Navigation - How To Boost Weak Radio Reception
Does the XC90 have a very weak radio reception? Some of the FM stations that were normally very strong in my other cars were weak at the XC90, and some of the AM stations that were normally okay got no signal at all at the XC90. Is there anything I can do to boose the radio reception?
View 19 RepliesAurora :: 95 OBD1 - Engine Lights Comes On
95 Aurora, engine light comes on . I looked under the dashboard and can't seem to locate the plug for the reader. ALSO how do I read codes out of an OBD1??
View 1 RepliesVolvo :: 1995 940 Will Crank But Could Not Start
I had the two wiring harnesses replaced with used ones, by Volvo at Christmas time on my 1995 940 Turbo. Things were heavenly and reliable until a week ago. My wife phoned me to tell me she could not start the car. I went and tried. It would crank, but not catch. I tried holding the pedal to the floor, but no luck. I had it towed to Volvo, but on the Monday, it started and it did all week long.
I drove it Saturday morning on errands. It was fine. My son moved it out onto the street and I went to use it an hour later and it wouldn't start. After about five hours, I tried it and it started rough but with gas it normalized.
I've asked whoever uses it in the family to give it gas in Park, before moving to get everything working. As the car is only driven once or twice a week, now that winter is over, I haven't tested my theory.
I really like the car, but my wife and I have to have confidence that it will start when we need it to. We have always had the vehicle maintained. I have wondered if it has anything to do with fuel injectors, but readily admit to not knowing anything.
Volvo :: 1995 - Stalled And Now It Won't Start
My Volvo 85T sometimes stall while driving, but most of the time while sitting at a light or stopped. I had someone look at it and they replaced the battery. it kept stalling. I had others look at it and they can not figure it out. Finally last night on the way home it stalled while driving. I charged the battery and nothing. it makes no sound when I try to turn it over. it has oil, trans fluid, gas.
View 11 RepliesFord Wiring/Electrical :: Way To Clear OBD1 Codes?
E-150, 5.8/351
The Haynes manual says not to disconnect battery (for whatever amount of time) to clear codes because it also clears the keep alive memory forcing the computer to relearn.
What is the correct way to clear codes? The manual says talks about jumping the OBD connectors some way but I cannot tell what is showing in the picture.
Volvo - 850 :: 1995 - Sagging Rear Bumper
My daughters 95 Volvo 850 had a sagging rear bumper. I prchased new mounting brackets and removed the bumper. It turned out the brackets were for a 5 door, and her car is a 4 door. I returned to the dealership and was told that they can only get the left side bracket and that the right side bracket is no longer available. The brackets look nearly the same except the mounting holes are opposite. I went ahead and ordered two left side brackets. I am hoping to be able to drill holes in one of them to fit it on. The bumper is now off the car and the old brackets are rusted to nothing.
View 3 RepliesVolvo :: 1995 / 850 Died On Highway And Won't Start Only Cranks
95 850 died on the highway - now it cranks and won't start. I had it towed to a mechanic who later told me he didn't work on Volvos. He did however check for spark - good. Timing belt- good. I replaced fuel pump and relay - no go. One possible hint is the lights on the Sport/Econ switch no longer light up and the first light I saw when it died was the up arrow light on the dash. Last winter I cleaned and regreased the PNP switch. Would that have anything to do with it?.
View 2 RepliesVolvo :: 1995 960 Wagon - Windshield Wipers Will Not Turn Off
I thought my problem of non stop wiper motor was either relay or switch. I found a good working switch and that did not cure the problem. I have yet to find any relay that would control the power to this circuit. There has to be one ...right? If so, where might it be on this 1995 960 Wagon. All of the wiper features work except for "off". Speed controls work, rear works, washer works, etc.
View 3 RepliesVolvo - Suspension - 960 :: 1995 - Gas-like Smell In Car When Begin Driving
This car has 100,000 miles, regular checkups, smog checks, good maintenance. There is a gas-like smell in car as one begins driving, for past year which can be avoided by pressing the recycle air button. No check engine warning light goes on. mechanic will be checking for sensors adequacy and gasoline gauge (possible misread?)
View 4 RepliesVolvo - 850 :: 1995 - Burning Oil For Two Years - Replace Oil And Limp?
I have a very serious engine problem with my 1995 Volvo (150K). It has been burning oil for two years and given the recession I have been buying oil and continue filling it. I recently took it in to find out what it would take to make it right. I was informed that it needed at minimum to rework the head (valve job , etc) but given the miles (150K) fixing one part of the system might temporarily fix the problem but it will most likely cause oil to start blowing thru the rings. They recommended the total effort (If I do it I do agree with them is the best of course of action). However it is a 4.5K job and the blue book value of the car is less than 3K at this point. At this point I can not afford a recurring car payment for another year. Should I buy cases of oil and limp along (wife's solution) or take the plunge?
View 7 RepliesVolvo - 940 :: 1995 - While Driving At Full Speed Shuts Off?
While driving full speed (55 mph), car shuts off. First RPMS drop to 1 - 1.5 (like being in neutral) then car shuts off -- no sputter or a cough, no rattle or puff of smoke, just kaput! If I try to restart immediately (after coasting to the side of the road) it turns over but won't start. Wait 60 seconds and it starts and drives normally. Have had it looked at, checked distributor cap, plugs, ignition coil and applied dielectric grease in case moisture was wreaking havoc in that area, but cannot find the source of the problem. Probably coincidental but it may happen more often in hot, humid weather?
View 4 RepliesVolvo :: 1995 / 850 - When Start Engine It Makes A Weird Sound
my wagon runs fine, but when i start the engine it makes a weird sound (the same sound you might here when a UFO zips by in movies)... also, the check engine light comes on and stays on throughout the duration of my trip... what could be wrong?...
View 1 RepliesVolvo :: 1995 850 - ABS Light On And Gear Locked At Parking Position
This morning I drove the car for about 40 mins and everything was fine.
In the afternoon, I tried to start the car. Just found the ABS light was on and the gear was locked at the parking position. I couldn't push down the small button that releases the gear. Of course I was pressing the brake pad when I did this, but it seemed like the system did NOT know it, so it wouldn't allow me to change the gear. I tried several times but no luck.
At night, I tried again. This time the ABS light was off and the gear moved as normal.
I have the feeling that it's due to some sensor, but not sure. What shall I do to make sure this won't happen.
Volvo :: 1995 850 - Brakes Heat Up With Loud Grinding Noise
I have a 1995 850. About a year ago, I suddenly had a loud grinding noise coming from my brakes. It only happened in hot weather and when the brakes seemed to be hot. Also, it only happened when I was coming to a final stop, like the last 10-20 feet. I took my car to my "trusted" mechanic. They diagnosed it as being my front pads and rotors, so they replaced them (they also felt the front vibrating.) NOW the brakes seemed okay after I got it back the second time (no loud grinding noise.)
When I got the car back, the weather was starting to cool since it was nearing winter. My winter weather is like 70's during the day, and during this time, there was no grinding. It's now starting to get hot again, and sure enough, that grinding noise is back, but not as bad as the first time a year ago. Again, it is only when the brakes heat up and I come to a final stop (the last 10-20 feet.) If I break lightly, it won't make that noise, and it takes me driving for about 15 minutes for the grinding noise to start (it sounds like metal on metal and loud.) Also, I don't feel the vibration like I did a year ago. I only drive the streets, and have not been on the freeway since I got the new brakes.
Volvo - 940 :: 1995 Turbo Stalls In Reverse / Hesitation On Takeoff
I have my 1995 Volvo 940 Turbo that stalls in reverse and hesitates on take off. The following is a breakdown of what has been done so far:
1. Initial Issue from March to October is hard starts; it would take 15 minutes or more to start car; it would be longer sometimes in cold weather.
2. Car would have erratic idle after startup; car reaches operating temperature before movement; car would bog down in idle and die only in reverse; initial acceleration from takeoff is slow;
car runs fine once out of first gear from takeoff; car bogs down on braking with idle lowering; sometimes car stalls at braking; gas is sometimes tapped slightly to stop stalling.
3. Issue of hard start would be intermittent; it would be less prominent in hot weather and more prominent in cold weather.
4. Sometimes in rain or wet weather, car would stall and sometimes backfire; Distributor Cap is normally changed.
5. By October, a no-start condition occurs.
6. Car starts now, idle is not erratic; car would bog down in idle and die only in reverse; you barely tap gas to keep from dying in reverse; initial acceleration from takeoff is slow; car
putts a little; car runs fine once out of first gear from takeoff; exhaust flows strongly; takeoff slightly improves incrementally with continued operation; car bogs down on braking with idle
lowering; sometimes car stalls at braking; gas is sometimes tapped slightly to stop stalling.
7. During idle or operation, sometimes coolant will boil in reservoir; toggle fan brings temp down to normal in between fan cycles; toggle fan keeps coolant temp normal in really hot weather.
The following parts have been changed and are still prominently new:
-Ignition Coil
-Spark Plug Wires
-Spark Plugs
-Distributor Cap (Initially Sealed With Sealant, Condensation Issue When Raining Causes Stalling)
-Rotor Button
-Condensation Cap For Distributor Cap (No Need For Sealant Now)
-K&N Air Filter
-Turbo Intake Hose (Original Had Disentegration In Spots)
-Exhaust Manifold Gasket (With New Locking Nuts and Sealant On Manifold Side, Not Block Side)
-Power Stage (Ignition Module or Ignition Stage Amplifier)
-Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
-Gauge Temperature Sensor
-Knock Sensor
-All Vacuum Hoses
-All Coolant Hoses (Including Oil Cooler Hoses)
-Fuel Pressure Regulator
-Oxygen Sensor
-Catalytic Converter (Honeycomb In Original Rattles, Discovered Gone When Removed)
-Exhaust Resonator/Central Muffler (Original Damaged By Honeycomb, Sounded Like Broken Glass, Baffles More Than Likely Clogged)
-Idle Air Control Valve
-Starter Solenoid (Starter Tested Good)
-Power Brake Booster (Original Replaced, Failed 2 Out Of Three Brake Pedal/Vacuum Tests)
-Battery
-Radio Suppression Relay
-Throttle Position Sensor
-Fuel Filter
-Timing Belt and Tensioner
-Crankshaft Position Sensor (Last In Chain, Resolved No-Start For Now)
The following are checkpoints, mods, and maintenance:
1. Modded Airbox for more airflow, no codes present from OBD before or after
2. Cleaned MAF Sensor with MAF Sensor Cleaner, no codes present from OBD before or after
3. Checked EGR Valve - Diaphram not broken, free movement, appears functioning
4. Had EGR Pipe Rewelded - Pipe broke from connection to throttle body, completely sealed and functional, Minimal Carbon Removed
5. No codes from EGR temp sensor before or after
6. Checked EGR Vacuum Controller through OBD - appears functional
7. Checked Fuel Pump - Repaired frayed hot wire, sealed, pump fully functioning
8. Checked Fuel Pump Relay - Functioning
9. Properly adjusted Idle Air Speed - Steady Between 700-800 RPM
10. Checked EGR Pipe to Exhaust Manifold - Minimal Carbon Removed
11. Cleaned Throttle Body with Throttle Body Cleaner - No Soot/Carbon exiting system
12. Created Toggle with Fuse in between connection, connected to slot in fuse box, cuts off with car, slight battery drain issue before and after installation
13. Checked oil in case - oil change still new, no milky appearance suggested head issues
14. Removed and cleaned breather box - no oil deposits clogging operation
15. Checked charcoal canister - stalling in reverse happens with and without it connected
16. Checked muffler during disassembly of exhaust system - no honeycomb/debris present during testing
17. Car is at Top Dead Center - Timing
18. Fuel Injectors tested fine with OBD and Pressure present at rail
The following parts have not been changed yet:
-Charcoal Box
-MAF Sensor (No Codes)
-EGR (No Codes)
-EGR Vac Controller (No Codes)
-Compressor (No A/C, issue with stalling is unrelated)
-Power Steering Pump (Slight squeaking on rotation, PB Blaster in bearing area confirms, issue with stalling unrelated)
Other Issues : Slight battery drain coming from somewhere in the car, have to remove negative from battery for now
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1993 - Self Test For Reading Codes Via CEL With OBD1 System?
I just tried doing the self test for reading the codes via the check engine light with the OBD1 system on my '93 4.0 Ranger. Problem is: When trying to mark down the flashes of the check engine light, they flash so erratically and rapidly that there is no way to accurately count. At times the light flickers so fast it never even gets to get fully bright enough to tell if it is actually a "flash" or not. I'm (again) trying to diagnose an issue with the truck starting and running fine for about 3-4 minutes and then like flipping a switch begins blubbering and belching out black smoke, check engine light flashes on/off randomly, then the engine will eventually die. It will restart provided the ignition switch is turned all the way off and attempted again, generating same results only within 30 seconds or so. If you try restarting w/o turning the ignition all the way off, it'll spin over but won't start. ECM?
View 4 RepliesVolvo :: 1995 - Rear Washer Pump Works But No Water Comes Out Of Nozzle
I have a 1995 945SET the rear washer pump works but no water comes out of the nozzle, where do I find the rear washer nose and how do I get into it to repair or replace it?
View 2 Replies