GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: How To Change Crank Sensor
just found my cranksensor was dead.. on the highway today.. sooo!.. can som1 tell me where is that sensor exactly so i can change it today.
View 1 Replies1992 Ford Mustang Won't Start - Got One Click When Tried To Crank
1992 Ford Mustang 5 spd 2.3l 4 cylinder. So a couple weeks ago, i got into my car and tried to crank it. I got one click then nothing. That's what I get whenever i turn the key. Not the repetitive clicking when the battery is low. After I found another ride home, I did some research and determined that it was probably the starter solenoid. I took a trip to Autozone and replaced the solenoid, but when i tried to crank it, one click then nothing. In order to get my car out of the school parking lot, I popped the clutch and got it running. Now, I'm stuck as to what the problem could be. I'm thinking it might be the starter itself, but it might also be the ignition switch.
View 1 RepliesBuick - Parkavenue :: 1992 - No Crank / No Start And Security Light Is On
I first thought my issue might be the ignition switch or maybe the neutral safety switch but through some info I've come to realize that my issue appears to be from the anti theft system. I did a test where I turned key to start and backed off to run and then leave car for 10 minutes. I did this 3 times and it was supposed to go around the security system and then try to start but it didn't. I went through two trials with the same result. On the first of 3 times in each of the two trials the security light was not on but the 2nd and 3rd times it stayed on. I've heard this problem can be nearly impossible to trace and repair.
View 10 RepliesBuick - Parkavenue :: 1992 - Click In Glove Box When Turn The Key / No Crank No Start
Car had been running fine and all the sudden turn the key and get nothing. Dash lights come on and there's a click in glove box but nothing from starter. I have 0V at ignition post on solenoid with key in start position. I can short the 12V post and ignition post with screwdriver on solenoid and starter and engine crank as normal but car won't start. Further checking I have 0V key off at ignition module, 12V with key on. A connector outside firewall between ignition switch and transmission neutral safety switch. I took this apart, it was a 7 pin with 2 of 7 blank. The red wire I had 0V key off, 12V key on.
Then I dug into the steering column area. 12" or so down from the key there is a connector with a rod coming from the key area down into it. I assume this to be the ignition switch. The rod is supposed to move and is attached to a plunger that pushes into the connector. I assume this rod is attached to the key. When I turn the key the rod never moves. So I thought ok clamp some pliers on the rod and push it into the connector manually, it should make connection and start the car. When this had no results I am now at a loss as to where to go next. Further thought, how did I get the 12V readings in several locations with key on if ignition switch appears to be faulty. I'm not sure if it's faulty or not, things don't add up. I didn't dig into the steering column where the key is yet because I will have to remove airbag and steering wheel to do so.
Volvo :: 1995 940 Will Crank But Could Not Start
I had the two wiring harnesses replaced with used ones, by Volvo at Christmas time on my 1995 940 Turbo. Things were heavenly and reliable until a week ago. My wife phoned me to tell me she could not start the car. I went and tried. It would crank, but not catch. I tried holding the pedal to the floor, but no luck. I had it towed to Volvo, but on the Monday, it started and it did all week long.
I drove it Saturday morning on errands. It was fine. My son moved it out onto the street and I went to use it an hour later and it wouldn't start. After about five hours, I tried it and it started rough but with gas it normalized.
I've asked whoever uses it in the family to give it gas in Park, before moving to get everything working. As the car is only driven once or twice a week, now that winter is over, I haven't tested my theory.
I really like the car, but my wife and I have to have confidence that it will start when we need it to. We have always had the vehicle maintained. I have wondered if it has anything to do with fuel injectors, but readily admit to not knowing anything.
Volvo :: 2003 XC90 2.5T AWD - No Crank / Start
I have a 2003 Volvo XC90, 2.5T AWD ... Since two weeks no start, no crank, when I turn the key in the ignition nothing happened, only the navigation screen is going off. I try the second key and it is doing the same. It happened when battery goes very low.
I try to scan it with different scanners and the same DTC is showing: (ECM-720A: Immobiliser communication)
Someone said I must remove the ECM and the ECU, read the both and use "Volvo Synchro V1.4 Loader" synchronize and program the key but i do not really know how to do it. Is it possible to do immo off ?
The VIN number is: YV1CZ59G741071108
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 1992 F250 - No Start / No Crank And No Noise
My 92 f250 5.8l 5 speed, out of no where when I try to start it I get absolutely nothing, when I put the key in the on position and short the solenoid it starts up that's how I've been starting it? When I try to start it regularly it's almost as if trying to start it without pressing the clutch it literally does nothing.
View 1 RepliesVolvo :: 2004 XC90 T6 2.9l Crank But Won't Start (P0366 And P0040)
My xc90 will crank but not start 99% of the time
Here are the following codes
(P0336) - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/ Performance
(P0040) - O2 Sensor Signals Swapped Bank 1 Sensor 1/Bank 2 Sensor 1
I have replaced the following
1.timing was off i have corrected this using the correct locking tools and VADIS
2.fuel pump was leaking - replaced along with filter
3.coil packs have been replaced along with spark plugs
4.replaced the crank position sensor and cradle
5.replaced the starter motor just for the hell of it
I have had the car running 3 times but this only occurs rarely and once i turn it off it wont start again . I have herd it could be 1 of 3 things .
fly wheel, starter motor emp messing the crank position sensor signal or gearbox has not got the correct earthing to chassis or bell housing to engine
I checked the 3 grounding points on both sides of the fenders and sanded the contacts ...
Volvo :: 1988 245 - Hard To Start After Sitting Intermittently - Crank For 3 Seconds
My 245 is running great. Love this car to death. I have been experiencing something weird. The car will start hard after sitting intermittently. It'll crank for 3 seconds and if I press the gas pedal it will fire right up. If I don't touch the pedal, itll will continue to crank...eventually sputtering and then firing. It will usually fore up right away if I don't let it sit for hours. I haven't exactly narrowed it down to a fuel prime issue, but that's kind of what it seems like to me. Are there any check valves or anything like that I could look into?
View 1 RepliesVolvo :: 1990 - Long Crank Then Eventually Start But Run Real Rough
1990 Volvo 760 4 cyl. Turbo. Drove the car to work, everything fine. Got off work, car wouldn't start. Cranked but wouldn't start. It was getting spark. Changed the fuel filter, it ran perfect for a month. Drove it to town a month later, shut it off, then trying to start it, would crank and crank eventually start but run real rough. We got it home....barely.
Replaced the fuel filter again. Still wouldn't run right.
Replaced the fuel pressure regulator. Same problem.
Replaced the throttle positioning switch. Same problem. Replaced the air control valve. same problem.
Found out that this car has an on board diagnostic doo hickey.
Found out how to check each sensor and component individually.
All sensors and components are working. Checked both fuel pumps and they are working. If I unplug the air flow sensor and the air control valve sensor, I can start the car using starter fluid and it will idle all day with out missing a lick.If I plug in either one of the sensors, it will kill it immediately.I don’t know what else to do to make this machine run.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Intermittent Crank With No Start After Oil Change
I did a bunch of reading before I bought this truck, and the seller said it really just needed a new battery as far as he could tell... When I bought it, I drove a considerable distance with no problems, other than it seeming to be a little sluggish with acceleration.
I have not seen any leaks anywhere, and all of the visible reservoirs appear to be nominal. No odd exhaust (really clean/invisible, in fact). No weird sounds, and running engine has a pretty even sounding cadence.
I initially changed all of the shocks because the old ones appeared to be original and were severely corroded/rusted. There is some surface rust elsewhere as this truck was apparently used in agricultural setting.
I replaced the battery and it was starting fine for a few weeks, but it would intermittently crank with no start, and would sometimes die within a few minutes after starting. I also charged the a/c with 134a, and it is blowing cold.
So... yesterday, I changed the oil, and installed a Fram Tough-Guard filter and precisely 15 quarts of oil (dipstick shows right level). I also changed the air filters, and disassembled and reassembled the air-cleaner to turbo hoses. While the hoses were disassembled, I took off the relays (AIH/GPR) and reinstalled an aftermarket GPR (crappy foreign-made one). No start. Several times. I reinstalled the original GPR. No start. Several times.
Even tried to jump it from my running Explorer. Still no start. (When I say no start, I mean that it will crank, but not turn over).
I am scheduled to take this truck into the dealership tomorrow for the recall issues (CPS), but I can't drive it there right now. Did I mess something up with the crappy GRP? Why wouldn't it start after reinstalling the original?
Another observation -- I had my batteries tested just now, and they are around 60%. I have ordered a new Alternator because this one looks original and is likely not charging the batteries. Still, I figured if I jumped it, it would start.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: MAF Sensor Fault Code - No Crank Or Start
I bought an 05 golf GL with a 2.0 and 5 speed in January for commuting to work.
Well, recently. I was on my way home from work, I'm an engine tech for Cummins Inc, and I notice my CEL came on and the car stalled multiple times at red lights. So I limped it home, connected my scanner and the fault was "Implausible signal from Mass Air Flow sensor". I cleared the fault code and tried to start the car. Nothing, no crank no start. Just an audible click from under the hood.
I disconnected the battery for 5 min reconnected it and it started fine. Drove it to work the next day, no issues. I tried to start it again and nothing, CEL was on again for the MAF sensor. I pop started it, car ran like hell, rough idle, low power, etc. luckily I have a dualy that I can drive in the mean time.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Installed New Crank Position Sensor Now Car Will Not Start
After installing a new crank position sensor on my 05 GTI 1.8T would I have to recalibrate my ECM, my car will not start.
View 2 RepliesVolvo :: Crank Pulley Timing Position For Volvo 940 Turbo?
What are the correct timing marks and positions for a Volvo 940 Turbo? I especially need the position of the crankshaft pulley. I have read the timing mark is on the cover, but unfortunately mine has dry rotted and crumbled away.
View 1 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 F250 - Engine Change Out Now The Truck Will Not Start On Hot Crank
So, we have a 2005 ford F 250 6.0 diesel and we had the engine changed out from a 2006. Now the truck will not start on hot crank. It will start up normal when cold. So dummy plugs and stand pipes were changed out as well as the oil pump and turbo from the 2005 engine because they were still perfect. What else could be causing the truck not to start up after truck is hot. Does the engine number have anything to do with it? Or anything electrical
View 5 RepliesMalibu - Chevrolet - Sensors :: Sound At Start Up Then Goes Away After 5 Minutes - Crank Shaft Sensor?
My 1998 malibu starts most of the time, there is a continual light on the dash and according to the maintenance book from chevy, they are saying check your emissions system. Also on the times when the car does not start right away, the oil, battery light also goes on; the sound is rrrrr, weaker and weaker, wait 5 minutes and can start the car. This has been the pattern. Diagnostics say it is the crank shaft sensor..... I have already read your stream about crank shafts sensors.
View 3 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Truck Won't Start / Crank Sensor Not Communicating?
Last night it was surging at idle and then just died. It had a code on it about the crank sensor not communicating... no codes this morning and it wont start.
I just bought the damn thing 3 weeks ago and its already not running. Where do I start to diagnose this damn thing..........
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 V10 Won't Start - Crank Shaft Sensor?
I have a ford f250 super duty and it wont start I have checked obvious reasons and I think it might be a crank shaft sensor. Just curious, is there two of them one for right bank and left bank or just one on drivers side?
View 2 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2007 - Cranks But No Start - FICM / Cam / Crank Sensor No Sync
2007 6.0l cranks but no start. Read all the forums and I think I performed all the checks. Getting a ficm/ cam sensor/crank sensor no sync. I'm also getting 84.70% at the ipr while cranking. Do I have multiple problems? Watched videos on either the ficm or ipr percentage but not one that had both problems. Getting injector clatter and fuel pump runs. Didn't see anything obvious with the harness.
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