Touareg :: Brake Squeaking - Calipers Does Not Fully Disengage From The Rotors

After coming to a complete stop & starts driving again, I notice that the brakes squeaks a few turns & then stops. It seems that the brake calipers does not fully disengage from the rotors.

2006 Touareg V6 Silver

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Ford Excursion :: Rotors Rubbing On Caliper Bracket - Brake Rotors Too Thick?

I replaced my warped front brake rotors a couple thousand miles ago and all was fine but when I went to swap over to my snow tires, I can see that the outer part of the rotor has been rubbing on the caliper bracket. This is happening on both front rotors. Could my new rotors be too thick or something?

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Touareg :: Brake Pedal Annoying Squeak

I love my V8 Treg...one squeak that is troublesome...quickly releasing the brake pedal causes an annoying squeak... what I might do to resolve the issue?

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Touareg :: High Pitched Squeak / Squeal Noise When Stopped With Foot On Brake

Reading thru all the squealing noise posts made me want to ask about mine. I have started to notice a high pitched squeal/squeak that occurs while sitting stopped with your foot on the brake...then let off the brake and take off and get this momentary squeak that doesn't continue (at least I can't hear it). It seems to stop once you get going again.

Seems to be coming from the passenger side front. I think I started noticing this after my most recent tire rotation and balance. What the brake wear indicator sounds like or if I will get an icon on the mfi when the brakes need service. The brakes do not squeal when in use. I currently have 27000 miles.

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Lexus GS 2006-11 :: Original Brakes And Rotors Squeak

When I 1st brought the car the original brakes and rotors squeak, I really didn't mind bcuz I had plans on changing them, now I installed the aftermarket slot/drilled rotors with new ceramic brake pads, and I still get squeaking from the front brakes, weather it's wet or dry, cold or warm they squeak, what I can do to stop this?

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Touareg :: 2004 - Transmission Disengaging While Driving?

Since new in Jan 04, the trans will disengage, the tach will shoot up and then BANG engages as though I put it in nuetral & then back in drive. Third time to the dealer last Friday and all they want to do is "flash". It did it again as I was leaving the dealer. I have had this happen at 55mph while passing & warmed up but bostly while cold at low speed. 1st or 2nd gear.

I haven't seen any other complaint like this but this is a safety issue.

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Prius (2004-09) :: 3 Brake Dash Warning Lights Came On After Got New Brake Pads / Rotors

i have the brake (!) the ABS and the VSC lit up after i got new bearings and new brake pads and rotors, the car was also stalling before the mechanic removed these bearing "dust cover" circles that must have been causing speed sensor interfernce bc the spedometer was stuck on 0....so the car seems to be done stalling after those were removed and all the big lights went off then i hit the brakes a few miles later and those three lights came on...

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GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: 20AE - Headlights No Longer Turn On When Disengaging E-brake

Checked all fuses ..Couldn't find anything in search. I assume it's a switch or relay somewhere?

Headlight switch itself works fine. Running lights turn on. Brights work.

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Lexus IS 2014+ :: Front Brake Pads Touching The Rotors / E-Brake Engaged And In Park

I noticed the front brake pads were touching the rotors when I was painting the brake calipers. I had my e-brake engaged and in park. I'm assuming the e-brake only brakes the rear wheels because the front rotors were still movable. Although the car still rides fine but I'm not sure if this is normal.

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Accent RB (2012+) :: Brake Piston Isn't Resetting

Is there a secret to this? I've tried everything. I have the proper tools, I've dried bleeding the brake fluid as I compress, but nothing is working! This is the first time I've changed my brakes, but everything online looks straight forward enough. Is there anything I could be missing or does it seem that my piston is legit stuck?

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Golf V R32 :: Brake Noise Might Be Grooves On Brake Rotors

Just thought I'd ask, I was at the dealer last week and while there asked them to take a look at my brakes because they were making a slight screeching sound but only when first applied when speed was slow.

They said it all looked good but that the sound I was hearing was from grooves that had been etched into the driver's side front rotor. I find it hard to believe that my rotor would have grooves in it after only 21k miles, considering I don't track it or drive it aggressively that would have caused that.

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Ford - Taurus :: 1997 - Brake Piston Fell Out

Brake pedal was going to the floor. Plenty of fluid in Master Cylinder.

Pulled both front wheels off to find no sign of any leaks anywhere. High and dry all around.

Metal lines look like new the length of the car. No rust, no sign of any leakage. Clean and clear all around (this is a southern car).

Didn't pull the rear tires off, but just by rubber-necking with a flashlight, all dry back there, too.

So I removed the bottom bolt on both front calipers and swung them up out of the way.

Then I started pumping the brakes to see if the pistons moved.

Two rounds of about 6-7 pumps of the pedal, and nothing. No movement.

Third round, shocked to see both pistons came nearly all the way out!!!! In fact, when I touched them, they wobbled. They were hanging by a thread.

So I tried using a C-Clamp and old brake pad combo to try to push the driver's side piston back in.

But the (fairly large) C-Clamp wouldn't open quite enough, and unequal pressure was applied to the face of the piston.

Next thing I knew, the whole thing exploded with the piston falling out, and all the fluid gushing out to the ground.

Should I just pull the passenger side piston off now, too? And let that fluid also gush out? (all this fluid is pretty much original from the factory, so it's old fluid anyway.

Do I just place the piston back into the bore, refill, and bleed? The piston just sits in there loose like that with only the rubber seal holding it in??? Or are these calipers history?

What about the pads and discs? Some of the fluid got on the bottom half of the disc and one of the pads. Just wash it off with brake cleaner and let dry prior to reinstall?

'97 Taurus GL Wagon 3.0L OHV205k miles

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Dodge - Dakota :: Piston Eventually Cracked Away During Brake Replacement

So I recently attempted to change the brakes on my 96 dodge dakota. I followed the instructions in my Chilton manual to do it. The driver side was no real problem and managed to get it done within an hour. Now knowing how to do it I moved to the passenger side. Once I slid the caliper off the rotor I noticed that the pads on this side were nothing but metal but the rotor was fine. I took out the pads but the piston was hyperextended and there was no way to compress it no matter what I did. The piston eventually just started to crack away. So I went to O'Reilly's and bought a refurbished caliper. It looked very similar and fit the bolts. However when I tried to attach the brake line it was at a different angle then its fitting. The brake line is a thin metal tube for the last 6 inches with a square piece of metal at the end where the hollow bolt goes through and then into the caliper. But because of the metal section I cant angle the brake line correctly to get a good seal.

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Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Driver Side Rear Brake Piston Stuck

My '03 3.5 has the driver side rear brake piston stuck. Tried the C clamp but no movement. Short of replacing the entire caliper...

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Dodge - Grandcaravan :: 2007 - Compressed Brake Piston Slowly Uncompressed By Itself

I just completed a front brake job on a 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan, installing new rotors and pads. Right front rotor and pad installation went perfectly. Left front - I heard a faint "hiss" as I compressed the caliper piston using a c clamp. In addition, as I placed the new inner pad against the caliper/piston, I noticed that the piston had become slightly "uncompressed," meaning it moved back out a little bit on its own. I compressed it again with a c clamp and had to rush to get the caliper back in place with the new pads in place before the piston SLOWLY worked itself back out and I wouldn't be able to fit the caliper around the new rotors and pads. I completed the brake job, pumped the brakes, and took it for a ride - all seems fine. The pedal is not spongy and it does not travel all the way to the floor.

Do I have anything to worry about? This is my 6th brake job in total. This is my first brake job on this vehicle. The slight hiss and the fact that the caliper piston did not stay seated after I compressed it bothers me.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Pulls To Left While Brake Applied - Piston?

Well just called it quits from working on the truck tonight. Had some issues with my brakes going to the floor and pulling to the right some, so I went to auto zone and bought all new pads. Didn't think it was time yet because I just replaced the rotors, pads, calipers, maybe 20,000 miles ago. When I got home and everything pulled apart I looked at the pads on the truck and they still had 60% life. I looked closely and noticed that the guider pins on the caliper bracket (front drivers side) were seized. I figured this is what was causing my truck to pull. Looked on the passenger side and it looked similar. Went back to auto zone and returned the pads and bought new brackets for both sides. I got the drivers side replaced and working and all seemed well. I got to the passenger and had a hell of a time getting the pistons on the caliper to compress so I could get it off. Once I finally got it, I noticed the pins on that side were not seized. I bought 2 sets of guider pins so I took the old ones out and greased up the new ones and installed them. Put everything back together and took the truck for a drive. Everything seemed normal at first, but once I got on the highway and hit the brakes, my truck pulled to the left. HARD.. Im assuming this is because of the pistons on the passenger side caliper I was having a problem with, not having the piston compress all the way causing my truck to pull. While I was looking at the caliper, I also noticed what '"looked" like a grease fitting, and also a bleeder valve a few inches away from it. Am I crazy, or is that fitting for bleeding the brake lines also...?

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Brake Dragging - Only Piston Closest To Fluid Inlet Came Out - Normal?

So I recently replaced my brakes and rotors with parts from frozen rotors. Today, I noticed a smell coming from my truck right before I got it home. I also noticed before the smell, it was pulling to the left. And when I braked, also pulling to the Left. I think I may have a brake dragging. I have heard about the caliper slide pins freezing, but when I replaced my brakes and rotors, none of them were frozen and appeared to be in good shape. I have the truck jacked up now with the wheel removed and didn't find anything apparent. I just took the caliper off and had my buddy press on the brake slowly while I watched the pistons. Only the piston closest to the fluid inlet came out. The other one did not move. Does this indicate any type of malfunction?

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Sierra :: 2008 GMC - How To Remove Brake Pads And Rotors

How to remove the front brakes pads and rotors on my GMC Sierra 2008 - 1500 - crew cab - 4X4.

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Prius (Gen 3) :: Hard Braking / Brake Rotors Become Rusty

I have never experienced what others have described as the brake delay issue, neither before nor after the ABS recall. I have even purposely driven over rough patches of road to try to duplicate.

After two days of rain, I noticed yesterday that my brake rotors were rusty. I remembered a comment from qbee42 about putting the car in neutral while braking in order to remove regenerative braking and to force friction braking to clean rusty rotors.

Yesterday I was approaching a stop light with plenty of distance and no one in front. I started braking around 45 mph with regenerative braking and then pulled the shift lever to neutral. When in neutral and with the regenerative braking removed, I felt the decrease in braking when transitioning to friction braking and I had to brake a little harder in order to have the same amount of braking as before in regenerative braking.

I can see where someone can "perceive" this as a surge forward but I only interpreted this as a decrease in braking force, as others have stated here many times.

I tried this again at the next stop light and felt the same "sensation" again and had to brake slightly harder when in neutral in order to have the same braking force. It was apparent to me that for the same brake pedal position that the friction brakes do not exert as much braking force as the same pedal position with regenerative braking.

Is this similar to what others are reporting as "brake delay" or "surge forward" issues?

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