Camry :: 2005 LE 2.4 - Engine Runs Rough / Loud While Driving And Cylinder Misfiring
I bought a 2005 Camry LE 2.4 4 cylinder. It was rather loud while driving, but especially while accelerating. It had error code P0420 from the beginning. It had a completely broken torque strut which I eventually replaced. Afterward since it toned down the kicking from the engine, I was able to notice that I could feel and hear the engine kicking like a cylinder misfiring. The computer gave me error code P0353 (Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction) consistently, and only a couple of times gave me error code P0500 (Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction) which went away.
I swapped the ignition coil and spark plugs around but the error code would persist on the same cylinder. The spark plugs didn't look particularly worn but I'm not experienced on what bad plugs look like. The codes persisted still, but later on P0353 went away, and the obvious kicking stopped but it still ran with a lack of power and hesitating on acceleration along with a strong smell of fuel in the exhaust. I measured the resistance of each fuel injector and all measured the same. I removed and flushed each of them with cleaner, but same situation.
What do you think? I don't get the bad cylinder code anymore but something is clearly wrong. Bad fuel injector? Bad wiring harness? Bad compression or head gasket (maybe from the movement of the engine while the torque strut was bad)? Hopefully not the computer... And could the loud noise be related to this problem or is that probably just a cracked exhaust from when the torque strut was allowing engine movement?
Touareg :: Truck Not Releasing Key Upon Shutoff
2011-2012 Touareg had issues where the truck does not release the key after you shut off the ignition? We're having this problem about every ~5 or so times we shut down the truck.
I have to restart the engine and turn it back off before it releases.
Am I doing something wrong with my touch, or is it a known problem where I should take it to my dealer.
Touareg :: Radiator Fan Runs After The Engine Is Off
I got a 2004 VW Touareg, V8, 4.2L, I really love it and it's a nice one.
But since last winter (Dec. 2015), I found that the only one of the radiator fan (the large one, there was one larger fan together with a smaller one right under the hood attached to the back of the radiator) is working after I pulled my key off. I have to say probably I didn't notice it before but this time it drains the battery. I didn't drive it for 3 month since then since I was abroad for business. But weeks ago I started to jump start it whenever I need to drive, and the battery was drain after completely and can not be jumped any more.
I got this battery about 1 year ago (Feb. 2015), the repair guys put a "Super Starter Extreme" for me, I found it yesterday when I decided to change the battery by myself and drop the car to a near repair shop.
Here is the previous battery link. [URL] .....
(To be honest I'm not sure if this one is really a choice for my car, but it worked for a year).
And I have to go Walmart to get a new battery in 'cause that's the nearest place I can go for my convenience.
I get a "EverStart" by search with my vehicle model. [URL] ....
Now I can start the car and drive but the radiator fan will still keep working like 4 minutes after the engine is off.
If this is a normal situation, I checked online, a lot of people don't take it serious and say it is the way it's designed to be. One thing I found when I open the hood is that the smaller one starts to work when I switch the contact housing from the larger one to it. Always, only one fan is working and it goes with that specific housing.
I have two questions,
1. Do I need to go VW dealer and check what's happening? (I tried several repair shop nearby and they know nothing about VW touareg, espaciall it prob came to be a electrical problem)
2. Is is a problem of battery? If the new battery I got is still not good, what is the right one to put in. I saw people recommending Odyssey PC1350, but thats a lot more expensive.
Touareg :: 2004 - Radiator Fan Still Runs Even Engine Is Off?
I got a 2004 VW Touareg, V8, 4.2L, I really love it and it's a nice one.
But since last winter (Dec. 2015), I found that the only one of the radiator fan (the large one, there was one larger fan together with a smaller one right under the hood attached to the back of the radiator) is working after I pulled my key off. I have to say probably I didn't notice it before but this time it drains the battery. I didn't drive it for 3 month since then since I was abroad for business. But weeks ago I started to jump start it whenever I need to drive, and the battery was drain after completely and can not be jumped any more.
I got this battery about 1 year ago (Feb. 2015), the repair guys put a "Super Starter Extreme" for me, I found it yesterday when I decided to change the battery by myself and drop the car to a near repair shop
(To be honest I'm not sure if this one is really a choice for my car, but it worked for a year).
And I have to go Walmart to get a new battery in 'cause that's the nearest place I can go for my convenience.
I get a "EverStart" by search with my vehicle model,
Now I can start the car and drive but the radiator fan will still keep working like 4 minutes after the engine is off.
One thing I found when I open the hood is that the smaller one starts to work when I switch the contact housing from the larger one to it. Always, only one fan is working and it goes with that specific housing.
I have two questions,
1. Do I need to go VW dealer and check what's happening? (I tried several repair shop nearby and they know nothing about VW touareg, espaciall it prob came to be a electrical problem)
2. Is is a problem of battery? If the new battery I got is still not good, what is the right one to put in. I saw people recommending Odyssey PC1350, but thats a lot more expensive, I'm just worried if that battery can solve the problem.
Toyota - Corolla :: 2008 - Engine Runs But Car Does Not / Loud Grinding Noise
I was driving my car today, and I stopped at a stop sign. When I went to go, I pushed the gas, and my car revved up, moved forward, then all of a sudden it made a loud grinding noise (Like I was dragging metal sheets), and the gas stopped responding (but the engine was still running). The car still turns on, but whenever the gas is pushed, it doesn't go and makes that awful noise. What could be wrong?
View 2 RepliesPrius :: 2005 Engine Cranks Up / Gasoline Runs Too Much
I tend to think my wife's 05 Prius gasoline engine runs too much. The engine cranks up when just backing out of the garage. It starts backing up totally on electric motor but when I stop to make sure the garage door closes the engine starts.
I see the same thing driving through the neighborhood, driving a steady 35 mph with batteries well charged 50% of the time the engine will run.
She is getting average 45 mpg.
Comments?
Prius (Gen 2) :: Pump Moves Water In The Engine For A Few Seconds After Shutoff
When you shut down the car a pump moves water in the engine for a few seconds. Now it is making a grinding sound instead of the usual brrrrrr sound. It seems to keep trying because nothing is pumping. Can I shut down this program? I don't think I need it in my climate area anyway. Is this the unit under the recall I had done last year? Will Toyota stand behind the pump they replaced? 128,000 miles 2005 Prius
View 11 RepliesJetta - Volkswagen :: 2000 - Clicking Noise After Engine Shutoff
I have a 2000 volkswagen jetta 4 cyl and when I shut off the engine, what I believe to be the air compressor for the air conditioner starts an erratic clicking noise. sometimes it doesn't click at all, sometimes a little. I've had to jump start the car twice because I believe this may be running down my battery. Why this is happening or what the possible outcome will be...
View 2 RepliesElantra MD (2010-15) :: 2013 - Engine Shutoff While Driving / Cannot Start
2013 Elantra with 62k miles. I am dealing with a strange issue where I experience sudden engine shutoff and no-crank no-start situation when I attempt to restart. This typically happens during warmer weather (above 95F / 35C).
When the engine shuts off while i'm driving, the following symptoms occur:
-Temperature gauge (all bars) disappear
-Shift level selection disappears from dash
-stability control light is illuminated
During that state, I'm unable to restart the engine (even when the level is in park or neutral). Anytime the attempt to restart, the following symptoms occur:
-all of the above symptoms when engine shuts off
-TPMS light is flashing
-engine does not crank when attempting to restart.
-Unable to move shift lever from Park when key is in ON position, even when depressing the brake pedal (have to use shift lock release to get it out of park into neutral). Trying to start the car in neutral makes no difference.
The car stays in that strange state anywhere from 5 minutes to several hours. After that, I'm able to start the car and drive it for 10-60 minutes, until above issue repeats.
The issue is NOT any of the following:
-Battery
-Starter
I know that some users have reported a similar issue due to a bad inhibitor switch, but with that issue, only the gear selection disappears from the dash (while the temp gauge and other functions remain normal). Could it possibly be a bad ECU?
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 F250 Runs Out Of Fuel On Hard Pull / Long Hills
Every time I hit a hill, loaded or empty, or get on the truck on level ground after about 15 seconds it acts like it's running out of fuel. The pump starts getting noisy like it has air in it, but it'll straighten out eventually. If you don't let off the fuel it'll eventually stall out. No check engine light, no codes. Truck has a ts chip but it does it on all settings. New fuel filter, changed oil with hot shots secret, new air filter, hutch mod done. I'm at a loss for what to do. Good fuel pressure also.
View 8 RepliesTouareg :: 2004 V8 Engine - Loud Ticking From Passenger (right) Side Cam Upon Cranking
I just bought a 2004 4.2 V8 Touareg with issues. Engine has oil. Tried to start it but no start. I could hear a loud ticking from passenger (right) side cam upon cranking. I removed all plug wires from right side cam and now it starts and runs on drivers side (left) only. Getting spark from all disconnected wires. Car will drive forward and back and check engine light flashes. Reconnected right side plug wires and no start.
I notice one of the plastic intake manifold arms connected to a rubber bellow was broken. I assume that's for O2 sensor/warm up so probably wouldn't prevent the engine from cranking.
What do I do next? Remove valve cover and look for camshaft damage? Bad cam sensor cause this? I'd rather not drop a rebuilt motor in it but I also don't want to throw $5k of parts at it. Car is for my soon to be 16 year old son (maybe it's safer as a four banger!).
Touareg :: Check Engine Light / Loud Whining Sound After Driving For About 20 Minutes
@75000 miles my first check engine light. Here are my symptoms......
~After i shut the car off the fan keeps on blowing at a very high rate as if the car is over heating, its currently 45-50 degrees.
~On cold morning when i start the car up and turn the steering wheel I hear a very loud whining sound, but after driving for about 20 min and the car has warmed up the sound goes away.
Touareg :: Loud Metallic Rattling Sound Under Moderate To Heavy Engine Load When Cold
Problem description: A loud metallic rattling sound from under the car under moderate to heavy engine load, only when engine/exhaust is/are cold. It is noticeable from within the cabin with the windows rolled up and the sunroof closed. Crack a window or the sunroof and it's pretty loud. The first time I heard I, I thought "this is not good".
This is not an octane ping or valve train noise. It sounds like a coffee can with marbles being shaken in concert which what might be the rapping of a V8 engine's exhaust. I had a Sunbeam Tiger that rapped in the upper rpm ranges and this reminded me of that but instead of rapping, it shakes a can with marbles.
There has been much discussion and speculation as to what causes this. It does seem to occur only with late - 04 and up V8 Touaregs with the "sport" exhaust that replaced the "std"(?) exhaust used on the majority of the 04s.
Observation: I looked very closely at the heat shields, looking for ways they could rattle. On the passenger side (LHD), the heat shield has three main sections:
- Front: around/near the secondary cat (tightly secured)
- Rear: around/near the rear differential (tightly secured)
- Middle: between the two mentioned above (loosely secured)
The three sections overlap a little where they meet. It was very easy to tap on the middle shield and make a loud metallic sound. I put my finger between the two shields (where they meet) to isolate the two metal pieces and tapped again, and the noise was gone.
Theory: The harmonic resonance of the exhaust under load vibrates the middle heat shield and it rattles against the front and/or rear shields. As the shields heat up, they flex enough to provide clearance between each other and the noise goes away. This may be unique to the "sport" exhaust if (and I am only speculating) the heat shields were changed (in design or fitment) when they changed the exhaust.
Experiment: I tried a very simple experiment. I slightly bent the edges of the middle shield (~1/2 inch) where it was coming in contact with the front and rear shields. The allowed me to tap rather hard on any of the shields without them rattling against each other.
Result: I make the tweaks to the shields Sunday night. When I drove to work this morning, I put the transmission in sport mode and ran WOT until it shifted. Normally, I would have heard the sound (very loudly) but it was gone. No metallic sound. Not completely convinced, I repeated the experiment on the way home and, again, the sound was gone.
Summary: It was cool out when I was going to, and from, work (64F) and this would normally be the perfect set up for making the sound. I think that tweaking the heat shield has solved the noise on my Touareg. I am tempted to go back under there and pop-rivet a little brace between the shields so that they cannot rattle against each other again. On the other hand, I may just leave it be and do the pop-rivets if the noise comes back.
Anyway, I was excited to find a potential solution for my Touareg and wanted to share it will you all. I will post back after a while and report how it goes in the long term. Lastly, I really liked being able to put the air suspension in xtra-offroad and get under the car (easily) without using a jack....
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Fuel Pump Runs For 20 Seconds At Key On / Long Start Takes About 6 Seconds
This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
View 14 RepliesPrius (2010-12) :: Long Single Loud Beep
unlike a lot of my fellow prii folks, i love the beeps. My favorite one is the confirmation of locking the doors by touch of handle and also unlocking by touch. Believe it or not i even like the backup beep which is kind of like a nice confirmation of "yo, dude! we are going backwards" but the most important one for me is the long single loud beep. happened the other day when i got out of my car to get a coke and the car emitted a continuous loud shrill beep as i started to walk away. I was still in drive.
View 3 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: 2005 - Loud Humming Noise From Engine At 75-80 Mph?
2005 Jetta. The car makes a loud deep humming noise once I hit about 75mph, and goes away once I get to about 82 or so. I've taken it out of gear and matched the rpm I get at those speeds, and I don't hear the noise at all. It's only when I'm in gear. What this could be?
View 4 RepliesTouareg :: How Long Does It Take Cabin To Cool Off
I've got the single zone a/c system -- On a hot day (here in VA a hot day is greater than 90 with high humitity), after the T has sat in the sun all day, it takes 10 or so minutes for the cabin to reach a comfortable temp, 69-70. By the way, I have the midnight blue with tan interior -- This could be a factor, you know, the dark car holds more heat scenerio.
I took it in last summer to ensure that the system was charged and operating at a normal level and I was told it was. A recent passenger questioned me as to why it took so long to cool off (and of course she mentioned that her 4runner cooled off way faster), I had no answer besides telling them to just be cool and the T will eventually will too.
I should have set a poll up, oh well, general comments are just as good. Side note -- Posting pictures, you do this through iServer? Or is the Insert Image icon just broken today?
Touareg :: How Long It Took To Relearn The Pressures
How long it took to relearn the pressures? I pulled the ECU today to take some readings and reburn the chip. When I reset everything the tire pressure monitor went into learn mode. I have driven it around for 20 miles and the unit still has not cleared. My wife is not so sure she likes me doing development work on her Reg. The books are worthless on this subject.
View 9 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: Long Loud Beep - Check Coolant Level Low
Turned my car on this morning and heard a long loud beep, i look at the car at its saying "Check coolant level low - Check owner's manual"
Turn the car off (engine still cold) pop the hood and coolant reservoir is almost bone dry, way below min level. Check underneath, no apparent leaks, no puddle, etc. Turn car back on, no warning light, drive to dealer, the service advisor looks at it and says there should be no way it's that low that soon.
He said in the morning its common for it to be low but after the engines warmed up it should be higher (and it was) but still below min level. He thought that it was strange and topped it off. Said to keep and eye on it and it will gradually gone down since its 40% water and when it slowly evaporates the level should go down.
So not sure if i have a leak or my car came with low coolant from the factory or something else even, but check your coolant levels