Hyundai - Sonata :: 2013 - Little Or No Air Out Of Dash Vents
My '13 Sonata with 50K miles, yes I drive a lot, 85% of it is highway mileage, all of a sudden today on the way home I felt it getting hot in the car. The a/c was on the and fan was on low so I put it all the way up on high and though it sounded right it resulted in only a little more air coming out. I experimented with fan speeds, vent settings, a/c on and off etc. It just sounds like there's a door closed somewhere. With it on full blast i was able to get some air leaking out enough to keep me from opening the windows but what's up? The temp gauge never changed the whole time. When I got home I tried cycling the car on and off a few times but nada. Back in the day I would've dug around under the dash to see if there was a disconnected vacuum line or something like that but I'm sure it's much more complicated than that now.
View 16 RepliesHyundai - Sonata :: 2013 - MPG Went Down After Replacing Battery And Plugs
I have a 2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS 2.4L Engine and recently replaced the Battery and Spark Plugs myself. My car has 55,000 miles and I have had all the normal maintenance performed. The maintenance guide suggested the plugs be replaced at 45,000 miles I waited until 55,000 as I was not having any problems. The last couple of trips to auto shop showed the battery slowing losing the ability to retain a charge so it thought might as well replace now rather than later.
After changing the battery and plugs I went to fill up my Car with Gas and the MPG dropped. Normally when I fill up the car with gas the dashboard of my car would show 420 miles until empty. Recently when I filled up the car it showed 370 miles until empty. I am thinking this is due either to replacing the battery and having the computer reset or I set the gap on one or more plugs wrong. The car is not misfiring so I am thinking it is the replacement of the battery and resetting the computer. I was going to run the care for a couple of tanks and see if the MGP change. I am also going to monitor the mileage and see if it matches the overall MPG.
Is my thinking about the battery and computer resetting correct?
Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Hyundai Won't Start - No Electrical
My wifes 2011 Hyundai Sonata would not start yesterday at the clinic. I purchased a new battery went there today to replace the battery. Before I started the work I tried starting the car. When I turned the key to the on position the radio came on and the dashboard lit up like normal. As soon as I turned the key to start the car the battery went completely dead. The starter did not engage and the electrical went out.
I replaced the battery. When I turned the key to the on position nothing turned on. Not the radio or any of the dashboard lights. I tried starting the car and there was not response, exactly like a dead battery. I purchased a new battery and they tested it right in front of me before giving it to me so I feel like I can rule out the battery.
I double checked that he connections were tight. I tried jiggling the shifter, pushing the brake pedal, jigging the steering wheel around, jiggling the key in the ignition. The positive battery terminal connector has a fuse, it appears to be intact. I also checked the fuse panel in the engine compartment. All of the large fuses are intact (I only looked at the 3 or 4 of the large ones that were visible from the top). I didn't check the smaller fuses, I wasn't sure which ones to check.
A little background : For a couple days in a row my wife was noticing that the car was struggling to start (she didn't mention this to me right away). I noticed that when we were driving it the head lights had a very subtle flicker. When were idling at a stoplight it appeared as if the lights were dimming and getting brighter rapidly. I noticed it from the reflection of a license plate and dismissed it as maybe just the wind causing the license plate on the car ahead of us to wobble. It was subtle and not very pronounced. Yesterday my wife went to the clinic and when she was leaving the car would not start. Someone tried with jumper cables but she was not able to get it started. Even after letting it sit for 5 minutes before trying to start it.
My buddy thinks it's the ignition switch itself, but that sounds quite a bit beyond my capacity. I suspected that since the lights were fluttering/dimming that it was an alternator problem. Even if the alternator is bad wouldn't the car still run on a fresh battery?
Camry :: 2011 Se 2.5 Versus 2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4
my buddies just got a used 2015 sonata and I'm wondering who will win or what car has the advantage?
View 14 RepliesSonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Noise Coming From Engine Of Hyundai
Having a weird noise coming from the engine of my 2011 Hyundai Sonata , mom is thinking it's the timing chain , is there a way to check the timing chain before taking it into the shop ?
View 5 RepliesHyundai - Sonata :: 2011 - Starter Did Not Engage And Electrical Went Out
My wifes 2011 Hyundai Sonata would not start yesterday at the clinic. I purchased a new battery went there today to replace the battery. Before I started the work I tried starting the car. When I turned the key to the on position the radio came on and the dashboard lit up like normal. As soon as I turned the key to start the car the battery went completely dead. The starter did not engage and the electrical went out.
I replaced the battery. When I turned the key to the on position nothing turned on. Not the radio or any of the dashboard lights. I tried starting the car and there was not response, exactly like a dead battery. I purchased a new battery and they tested it right in front of me before giving it to me so I feel like I can rule out the battery.
I double checked that he connections were tight. I tried jiggling the shifter, pushing the brake pedal, jigging the steering wheel around, jiggling the key in the ignition. The positive battery terminal connector has a fuse, it appears to be intact. I also checked the fuse panel in the engine compartment. All of the large fuses are intact (I only looked at the 3 or 4 of the large ones that were visible from the top). I didn't check the smaller fuses, I wasn't sure which ones to check.
A little background;For a couple days in a row my wife was noticing that the car was struggling to start (she didn't mention this to me right away). I noticed that when we were driving it the head lights had a very suttle flicker. When were idling at a stoplight it appeared as if the lights were dimming and getting brighter rapidly. I noticed it from the reflection of a license plate and dismissed it as maybe just the wind causing the license plate on the car ahead of us to wobble. It was suttle and not very pronounced. Yesterday my wife went to the clinic and when she was leaving the car would not start. Someone try with jumper cables but she was not able to get it started. Even after letting it sit for 5 minutes before trying to start it.
My buddy thinks it's the ignition switch itself, but that sounds quite a bit beyond my capacity. I suspected that since the lights were fluttering/dimming that it was an alternator problem. Even if the alternator is bad wouldn't the car still run on a fresh battery?
Honda - Accord :: 2013 LX - Brakes And Rotor Replacement
Looking for really good ceramic brake pads and rotors for my 2013 Honda Accord LX? I use my car for everyday driving in the city and highway and was hoping to find something that works well in all weather conditions including snow.
View 19 RepliesHonda - Accord :: 2013 - Jerking Comes From The Front, Center Of The Car
2013 Accord Touring, automatic. I bought it brand new last January from the dealer. Two months ago, I went to parallel park and the entire car started violently jerking. It's done it several times since then and here's what I've gathered:
1) The car primarily jerks at low speeds 1-5 mph in both reverse and drive, primarily when parking but sometimes when I'm accelerating from 0 mph,
2) Applying the break stops all jerking, applying the gas again commences jerking
3) This happens typically in cold weather when the car is both cold and hot, but not every time I drive/park it
4) The AC/Heat "cycles" down/up (less air blowing) right before the jerking begins,
5) Typically my "Forward Collision Crash Problem" alert flashes on and then off for no apparent reason,but I can't necessarily correlate this
6) The RPMs do bounce a little bit (a notch or two) during the jerking,
7) Eco mode is on and off when this happens and
8) There are no error lights/warnings/beeping/etc. to indicate that there is anything wrong.
My best description of the jerking is that it comes from the front, center of the car. You know when you drive a manual and you don't give it enough gas as you shift and the car jerks? That's what this feels like.
I've brought it to the dealer twice and they can't recreate the problem, everything checks out as clean and they don't know of any service bulletins about it.
Honda - Accord :: 2011 - Poor Gas Mileage?
I have a 2011 honda accord with 15,000 miles on it that Has only gotten 20mpg since it was new. It is supposed to get 23mpg city and 34mpg highway. I figured I was the tires but since fixing the leaking valve stems it is still only 20mpg. I asked the dealer about it several times during oil changes after I first bought it and they claimed to look into it and find nothing wrong. Is there anything I can do to fix this or would it be covered under new yorks lemon laws?
View 19 RepliesHyundai - Sonata :: 2011 - Brake Warning Light Comes On And Then Stays On
Whenever I start my 2011 Sonata Turbo after it has been resting overnight, the brake warning light comes on and stays on. It's not immediate—it usually takes five to ten seconds, and whether the emergency brake was on when I started has no effect. Once it goes on, it cannot be shut off without shutting off the car and restarting—at which time it acts normally. The braking system is fine.
View 4 RepliesHyundai - Sonata :: 2011 GLS Stall Out And Clutch Engaged While In Gear
I accidentally "popped the clutch" while parking in my driveway and now there's something wrong with the clutch pedal!!
I let the car stall out on accident and somehow had the clutch engaged while in gear and forgot or something and when I released the pedal while still in gear, the car tried to start, but I pushed the clutch in instead of letting it start and now the clutch pedal is all the way to the floor, there is no tension, like a spring came loose, but this is a hydraulic clutch so there wouldn't be a spring, right? What did I do?? And how can I fix it?
2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS
Hyundai - Sonata :: 2011 - Same Tire Size But Different Speed Rating?
I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS with 65k miles...it has a 2.4 liter motor (4 CYL), auto transmission. The car currently has 205-65-R16 tires on it with a 95H speed rating. They all have worn down to the wear bars so it's time for replacement.
On my previous cars, I've always had Uniroyal Tiger Paw touring tires because I love how they ride. I found the same tire size for my Sonata. However it has a different speed rating...95T.
The only difference is the letter "T".
EDIT: It currently has Nexen N5000 tires and I bought the car with these tires already on....crappy tires...worn down in only 30k miles.
Honda - Accord :: 2013 V6 - Ping Or Knock Noise Under Certain Circumstances
My 2013 Accord V6 EX-L with 5,000 miles emits a strange sound, under certain circumstances. The sound is hard to describe but reminds me of the old days when your engine would "ping" or "knock" if you used gas with too little octane. Of course, the current Accord only requires regular gas. At any rate when cruising between about 45 and 60 MPH, if you push on the accelerator (not enough to cause a downshift) and especially if on a small incline, you hear a very distinct knocking or rattling sound. Over the past 6 months, the sound seems to become more frequent and noticeable.
I have been to the dealer and the service manager drove the car and agrees he hears the sound. But after consulting with Honda engineering they concluded it is "characteristic" of this engine. They say it emanates from the "paddles" (??) within the automatic transmission vibrating or rattling. After being told that, I drove 2 other 2013 V6 Accords on their lot, and they both made the same sound. My question is, do any other owners notice this? I find it very distracting and also disappointing after paying so much for a new vehicle only to own something that strikes me as deficient.
How can Honda produce and distribute a vehicle with this annoying and obtrusive characteristic? It is hard to believe they did not catch this and fix it during product development. I even drove a 2014 V6 Accord last week and could just make out the beginnings of this same sound, so apparently it was not engineered out for 2014. This makes me lose confidence in long term ownership of the vehicle as well as fearful of potential future transmission problems.
Honda - Accord :: 2013 - Manual Transmission / Clutch Completely Gone
I have 2013 Honda Accord 6 sp manual with 25k miles on, its clutch was completed gone last week, got new replacement, local Honda customer rep. told me I should watch my driving pattern, should using more break, instead transmission slow down, particular from high speed/high gears. I told them, we have 2008 Civic 5 speed Manual, I taught my two daughters how to drive it, and the car is still running without any problem… And, this is manual transmission car, tell a driver can not using/changing gears slowing down car is a joke… but maybe I am wrong...
Is there a possibility Accord has design problem with inferior clutch materials used on their new 6 speeds manual Accord? Since car has new clutch, should I keep it for a while? Or, sale it immediately? I just can’t not see I am going to come up another 3rd replacement on clutch before the car get into 60K miles.
Honda - Accord :: 2011 - Brake Fluid Cap Won't Open
I have a 2011 honda accord and removed the brake fluid cap just fine to check it, in about October but I went to check it again today and the cap won't come off, I wonder if it's because of the cold weather? (36 f) It came off so easy last time I don't remember which way to turn it, and if I should press up or down when turning. The cap will rotate about a quarter inch either way, then won't go any farther. It hits these little white plastic pieces stopping it from going farther.
Here is a picture of what it looks like [URL] .... if you try to turn it left it gets caught on that little white plastic piece on the bottom and there is a similar piece stopping it from going right.
Honda - Accord :: 2011 - Transmission Is Shifting Roughly
My 2001 Honda Accord LX automatic transmission with 103,000 miles has been shifting roughly for about a year. The car is in excellent shape otherwise. I've changed the oil & filter regularly @ 3,000 miles, just had the rotors turned. Last year, based on what the manuel says to do, I had the transmission fluid drained and replaced. It seemed better for about 6 months. The rough shifting seems to happen most when going from 2nd to 1st and vice versa. Last week when I accelerated to take off @ a traffic light it made a huge clunking sound & it was like I went over a speed bump as I took off. That sent me to a transmission shop!
Through a test drive & putting on the scanner, shop #1 says it has a major transmission malfunction & said need to take apart, rebuild & put back together. Shop #2 does the same testing & says basically the same thing & all they can tell me to take it apart & put it back together, with the unknown being what is wrong & what will be the total cost! Shop #3, same testing, but they went a step further and dropped the transmission pan & found the forward clutches in there. They recommended rebuilding transmission, replacing forward clutches which includes torque converter, pump, gasket seals, etc.
My specific questions are:
1) What is the function of the forward clutches?
2) Does the diagnosis & remedy sound correct
Hyundai - Sonata :: 2011 - Engine Will Just Spin Slowly When Starting After Few Hours
I have a 2011 sonata with the 2.4 liter 4 CYL motor and auto transmission. It has 61,600 miles on it. Just out of warranty...awesome.
In the last few days I've noticed it has had issues starting. For instance, when I got into the car and started it for the first time in the day, it starts up fine. Then a few hours later, I start it again but the engine will just spin slowly...I then turn the key back to off and then turn it again to start. It then will start up fine on the next try.
No check engine light or any sounds I can feel (I am Deaf so I cannot hear any sounds when it doesn't start) new battery in August of 2015. When it doesn't start, all of the dash lights come on.
Honda Accord :: 2013 - Remote Doesn't Lock / Unlock Doors
'13 Accord Sport4k miles
These frigid WI temps are horrible. I did end up washing my car last weekend because it was full of salt. This morning I pressed the lock on my remote 2 times, nothing happened. Normally the horn sounds off once and the lights flash. I seen the lights flash, but there was no sound coming from the horn..........frozen locks? I came home after work and tried it again. Works fine now.
Honda - Accord :: 2011 Sedan - Ball Joint Failure
The other day in our 2001 Honda Accord sedan, 4cyl, 140k miles, we were driving and the wheel became, how do you say, less attached to the car than it used to be? The wheel and the car had a nasty break-up and we were caught right in the middle of it. (see pictures) We were driving down a straight road, going straight, and boom, the wheel fell off and the car landed on one of the suspension bits . We were doing 30 and did fine. But we had literally just exited the freeway, where we were doing 70, a minute or two before this happened. Further, there was no noise, no vibration before this happened. The car was acting quite normally.
We had it fixed at a Honda dealership. We were on the road and it set us back $1070 and a full day. But there you are. So the problem is fixed, and I asked the dealership people to please inspect the other ball joints.
But...now I'm paranoid every time I drive the car. And I want to check them for myself. I read about the jack the car up and try and shake the tire trick. Is that foolproof? Is there more I can do to make certain that all the remaining bits that are supposed to be holding the wheel on are not, in fact, about to break?