Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 - Slow Acceleration Which Is Worse After A Stop Sign Or Red Light
I have a Hyundai Santa fe 2004 6cyl 2.7 L , AWD. I am having problem of slow acceleration which is worse after a stop sign or red light. Sometimes while taking turns I feels like that I will not move and I was lucky to be not hit by a Car coming from opposite direction while taking a left turn today.
The Truck’s exhaust pipe broke recently and a auto garage welded it. But I am facing the above problem immediately after the repair of exhaust pipe. If I put more pressure on gas pedal then a mal function indicator comes and today I took it to another mechanic and he gets the error code of P0303 –engine misfire and wants to charge me ~ $600 $ to replace spark plugs and wires. The malfunction indicator goes off also while I am driving and can comes back after a while or a day. With the indicator on, the car drives erratic (minor jolts ) for few meters and then its fine. Since when I am driving on highways then I can go higher speeds without any problem. Is it still misfire issue???
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Slow Acceleration And Rough Idle After Spark Plugs Changed
Here's the run down:
-bought 6 months ago for cheap because it wouldn't pass smog test
-changed Purge Control Valve (PCV) and it passed
-filled with gas, heard popping noises like a backfire, and coded it read the same "Bank 1 and Bank 2 running lean, like it did before the PCV and then also "Cylinder 3 Misfire" appeared.
-At this point the car started running rough, at idle, and through acceleration...sputtering uphill, and when climbing through the gears.
-Changed the plugs & wires
-NOW, it's cylinder 5 misfiring, and not nearly as bad. It's idling and running rough, acceleration has somewhat come back, but it's definitely not 100%.
Should I start with the PCV again, since it's not starting after I fill the tank, and climbing gears slow? Is there anything else I should be checking?
Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2007 GLS - Slow Acceleration And Poor Mileage
2007 Sonata GLS - I4; 55kmiles ... I plan to sea foam on my Sonata as it continues to have slow acceleration and poor mileage. Looking for a picture of the Brake Booster or Vacuum line? I want to make sure I am pouring it in the right place.
View 3 RepliesSanta Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Passenger Window Too Slow When Going Up
I have been observing the passenger window for weeks. It is definitely slower than the driver one going up. No problem going down. The passenger window seems to stop at some point then slowly keeps on going up. That does not look right, it is definitely getting worse and I am ready to open the door panel. That would be my first time with a door panel.
View 17 RepliesSanta Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2009 2.7L - Slow / Delayed Upshifts
I have 129,000 miles on my Santa Fe. Approx. 1000 miles ago it started to act abnormal. The upshifts began to feel different and it was obvious by the Tachometer and the sound of the engine that they were taking longer. Along with that, whenever you are in 4th and you want to accelerate, it feels as if you are "dragging an anchor" , The vehicle has been well maintained, trans. fluid level OK, timing belt as well as plugs, air filter have been replaced. I have no codes locked in either. What may be going on.
View 6 RepliesSanta Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2008 GLS Hesitates / Jerks Usually During Slow Speeds
Purchased this car new. 2008 GLS w/ V6 2.7L engine. Wife's car, so I rarely drive it. She's complained for a month about an intermittent issue with the jar "jerking", usually during slow speeds.
I felt it for the first time myself. Was halfway through a pretty tight curve at around 20 MPH, starting to slowly accelerate when I felt a definitive lurch. might have been momentary loss of acceleration, or transmission. Not sure which. No CEL thrown.
I did see another thread mentioning a 2007 with a similar issue, but that person had codes thrown that pointed to a Throttle position sensor and a need to reflash a transmission. Think I'm seeing the same situation, or would this be different ? Absent any CEL, I'm sure the dealer will not be able to find it....
Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Climate Control Sensor Seem Slow To Respond
Heating comes up very well although air flow at the feet isn't very high but adequate. However, I notice once the cabin is warmed and it reverts to keeping it at the set temperature. I never sense it coming back on to heat again and air output feels cool.
The following doesn't reactive it into the typical heat output as when I get into a cold vehicle.
- going out to fill up for gas with doors opening etc with engine off then leaving is still a very cool output and no further warming appears to take place
- loading shopping from purchases does not seem too cool the sensor enough while engine is still running
- even while driving setting it another .5C higher does not make a difference once its cycle off the main heat mode.
Where is the SF sensor located for the internal system and is this slow response normal. How much of a drop in temperature does it need to pump at lease warm air. I'll have to experiment further I guess and adjust full degree increments until I get a response. I am comfortable most of the time but I don't like cool air blowing at me through the vents in the winter.
Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: High RPM / No Acceleration
My 2011 6-speed automatic AWD santa fe was in a front end collision (T-boned a car that pulled out into the road then stopped) but was still drivable, just bumper damage. About a week later while waiting on the front bumper to come in, the starter died mechanically (of course, no relation, according to the shop and insurance adjuster since even though the starter is about 12" behind the point of impact, there was no undercarriage damage, ie, not related to accident). So when they got the part in, they replaced the bumper and the starter.
When I picked up the car from the shop, the check engine light came on when I got out on the road. On the road, the car had almost no acceleration. The engine RPM went up, almost to 7k but the car was moving slowly. This was on the on-ramp of the freeway and very disconcerting. It did make it up to about 40mph initially and then on the slight incline, took me about 30 seconds to make it to 60mph. I got off the freeway and pulled into an Oreilly auto and had them read the code. It came across as the phantom P200A (something about MAF sensor but usually not a true error in this make/model). I called the dealership, took it back. The guy looked at it while I waited, brought it around, said it was fixed, just had to have a code cleared and the check engine light went out. His experience was simply driving it in first, maybe second gear in the lot. He said it was the ECM, and this was typical as it had the battery disconnected for a couple days, the ECM needed to "relearn" the controls. He said give it a few weeks and it would be fine.
I got it out on the road, no more check engine light, but the acceleration/rev situation was still present. It has been a month, and it hasn't gotten better or worse. I can drive the 6-speed in auto around town, though it shifts higher, around 4k RPM if I am at all accelerating, or on even a slight incline. I can put the pedal to the floor while driving in auto, and it drops out of gear and into neutral, at least the way it feels, revs up, would red-line if i didn't come off the gas, but never accelerates, it acts like it drops into neutral. If I am driving with the car in manual shifting mode and choose where I want it to shift, it shifts fine, doesn't feel like it drops to neutral, however I can floor the pedal and it still only slowly accelerates, especially on an incline. It seems to bog down around 40mph or so, and take forever to get above that. Downshifting manually raises the RPM as expected, but no increase in acceleration.
Now I have a check engine light on again, and am taking the car back to the repair shop this week without clearing the light so maybe they can see something else that may have cleared at the auto part store last time. Basically, I have read multiple causes/symptoms which partially match this, but nothing exactly.
1. Limp home mode on ECM
2. Throttle position sensor
3. MAF sensor (or whatever the 2011 Santa Fe has equivalent)
4. TCM (Transmission Control Module)
There was absolutely nothing wrong with the car before the wreck, then the starter. No shifting/idling issues. I am wondering what a repair shop replacing a bumper and transmission could have done, that would create this problem. The transmission couldn't have died between working fine, won't start, and here, your starter and bumper are fixed but the tranny is FUBAR. I am thinking it absolutely HAS to be a sensor or computer controller of some sort, but not much on the web showing which sensors are which and where they are in a 2011 Santa Fe.
I believe the MAF/throttle body has to be removed to get to the starter (directly below it if I am not mistaken). One last thing, it is an AWD... it was towed from my house to the dealership with all 4 wheels up, as required for a AWD vehicle. If the shop pulled it from the lot to the garage, a few hundred feet at most, with 2 wheels up and 2 down, could that cause all this?
Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 3.3 Engine AWD - Rough Acceleration
I have a 2009 Sante Fe, it has about 96000KM on it. It is a 3.3 engine AWD.
I find that when I accelerate the thing kind of feels rough. It is very subtle. Like you can almost miss it if I wasn't being so picky. But I can definitely feel something there. What this would be.
Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Strut Leaking - Rattle Or Clunk When Driving Over Rough Roads At Slow Speeds
I have a 2011 SF 2.4L FWD GLS with 79k miles. I replaced the OE struts and shocks 3 weeks ago with Monroe OE Spectrum struts and shocks. This improved the ride tremendously especially on the front passenger side where the strut was leaking.
After driving it for 3 weeks I still feel a little rattle or clunk when driving over ruff roads at slow speeds. I did check the ball joint and wheel bearings while I was in there, and I am certain they are not the source of the noise. I also checked the strut mount when I transferred it to the new strut, and while it appeared and felt ok I think it is the most likely cause of the remaining rattle and clunk.
Any aftermarket strut mounts for this particular model year? I have looked at RockAuto and they have a Moog Part # HYSB9816. This part claims it is for the European builds. Is there really a difference for this particular part?
Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2010 - Vibration From Rear Under Acceleration
We purchased a new 2010 Santa Fe Limited in October of last year, and as it stands today, we've put about 19,000km's on the vehicle (about 12,000 miles for my American friends). About 14,000km's in, we started noticing a vibration from the rear under acceleration. When you reached cruising speed (regardless of the speed), the vibration would go away, but would appear under acceleration. What was more alarming was that at slow speeds when making sharp left-hand turns (turning into the driveway, doing a u-turn, pulling into a parking spot, etc), there would occasionally be a loud bang from the rear end. The first time it happened, we thought that we had run over something... actually not but it sure sounded like it!
We took the vehicle into the dealership, and after an inspection they found a rock in one of the rear springs. They removed the rock, applied the TSB to place covers over the springs, test-drove the vehicle, and said the issue was resolved.
The next morning, I was heading out of town to pick up a friend, and experienced a loud bang when I pulled into my buddies driveway. Problem was NOT solved. Called Hyundai again, and made another service appointment. This time with the requirement of having a tech come with me for a test drive.
I was able to reproduce the vibration, which really shocked the tech. At the same time, I was also able to duplicate the loud bang when making sharp turns (I had actually caused it to happen twice when driving around the dealership, but I was alone in the vehicle at the time!), when he concluded that there was probably some binding going on in the drive train. They took the vehicle in, and after looking at it, determined that the coupler in the drive train was defective, and needed to be replaced. They didn't have the part in stock, so they had to order it in; my concern was that the vehicle was unsafe, but they assured me it would be fine to drive until the part came in. I went on a weekend trip with the vehicle, and experienced some pretty severe binding when pulling into parking spots (no bangs, but imagine driving through a lake of molasses) - I had to really give it gas to get it moving into the parking spot - not nice, especially considering what might have happened had it 'unbound' while under throttle...it was certainly not safe, but I survived.
After THREE weeks, the part finally arrived, and was installed yesterday. I'm happy to announce that the vibration has ceased, and I can only assume that the loud bang is gone as well (although I couldn't duplicate that on demand, so I'll never know for sure that it's gone). The Tech did mention that it was a new version of the part, so they just didn't install a new part, it was an upgraded new part.
Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2009 - Engine Sluggish On Acceleration
Experienced sluggish acceleration with their "09" Santa Fe. I have the 2.7 liter 6 cyl. engine and it seems so sluggish when accelerating. I have replaced all the plugs with some best rated ones specific to my model. I have tried one of the best rated fuel system cleaners. It still seems to have no pep, my daughter's 1999 Honda has far more get up and go.
View 7 RepliesSanta Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2011 - Vibration With Moderate Acceleration And Only Sometimes
2011 SF. 52000kms.
A little while ago I noticed a brief vibration (felt through floor and steering) with normal acceleration from stand still... I attrributed this to the cold weather and perhaps oil thickening, as the problem went away after the car was warmed up. Since then I have noticed that it's continually happening on a regular basis, but only for a short period.. I was still thinking that it was the cold, but that wasn't the case because I left the car idle at start up for 20 minutes until well warm.
Now.. If I slowly accelerate (not putting much load on the car) there is no vibration at all. When the car reaches a certain speed, the vibration goes away. There is also no vibration after about 15 minutes of driving.
I had a neighbor test it with me to confirm and he felt it, and initially thought differential oil, but then suggested myriad other things from the CV boot to bearings to etc etc.
I need to take it to the dealership so they can experience the vibration but would certainly need to leave it there over night so they can check it out when "cold".
Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: On Acceleration Light Goes Off - Alternator Not Charging?
When the vehicle is accelerated the light goes off. When I stop it comes back on, so it seems that the alternator is not charging when the vehicle idles. Could this be a bad belt or maybe the alternator. Charged the battery all night it has 12.40 volts, and is only 1 yr old. At idle the reading on the battery slowly starts dropping, then goes up when under acceleration.
View 19 RepliesSanta Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Warning Lights Came On And Acceleration Lost
My company has a fleet of about 20 2007 GL AWD Santa Fe's. A few of them have had a strange problem....AWD, ESC, and check engine lights will turn on and they will lose acceleration of the vehicle. The dealership has said that it is a problem with the electronic throttle. Apparently it has been quite dangerous for some who have been driving at highway speeds and lost acceleration.
View 15 RepliesSanta Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Whining Noise Upon Acceleration - Power Steering Gone
Noticed a whining noise upon acceleration, today. Noticed that it might be the power steering going. No sooner than I read this, and making a trip to my wife's graduation...Loss of power steering. What should I look for when I take it in, and tell them it's the power steering that is gone. Was reading about a potential correlation with having the rack and pinion replaced. That is something that was done about a year ago. Any real correlation? How bad is it to continue to drive without the power steering?
View 21 RepliesSanta Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Power Door Locks Clicking On Every Acceleration
Power door locks are supposed to activate when the vehicle accelerates to a certain speed from starting the car but mine suddenly started clicking 4 times on-off-on-off every time the vehicle accelerates from every stop or near stop. It's been doing this for 2 weeks and is getting annoying in stop and go traffic.
I have clicked the lock switch on the driver's door to ensure that it works and is not stuck but not sure what else to check. I also made sure that all doors are closed correctly and no ice or snow in them.
2010 SantaFe w AWD
Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Loud Gear Whine With Light Acceleration
'07 FWD Santa Fe exhibits pretty loud "'gear whine" with light acceleration.
Recent ATF change got loads of nasty gook and metallic sludge out of trans.. but no change in gear whine.
Dumb question, but do 2wd Santy's have a differential that I can drain and refill to quieten this whine down a little?
Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2011 - Total Loss Of Acceleration Without Warning And CEL Comes On
We have a 2011 Santa Fe we got last October. We have had four different instances where the vehicle suddenly stalled out. The first was within a few weeks of purchase and was blamed on a loose battery negative post that prevented the battery from recharging correctly. When we called the dealership service department we were told that we were not driving it long enough to recharge the battery and that the battery light would go out once it recharged. Well all the lights went out when the car died going through an intersection at night with my wife at the wheel.
The second through fourth issue is that without warning there is a total loss of acceleration then the engine light comes on. The first time this happened my wife was able to steer off the road and after a few minutes was able to restart and drive the car home. I then drove the car about a mile when it happened to me. The car was towed to the dealership where they said there was a required software update. Really?? After that it drove fine for about a month then stalled when my wife was merging onto a freeway.
The dealership checked and found three active codes: P2106 Forced Limit Power, P2110 Force Limit RPM and P0638 Throttle Actuator Control Range. They also checked TSB updates and found (12-FL-004) for ECM. They also called Tech Line and recommended change of Throttle Body Assembly. This is all under warrantly. We got the car back yesterday.