Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - Loses Power / Acceleration - Electrical?
So the 04 is rolling down the road when the cluster gauges ping, the truck loses power/acceleration but the radio never goes out. Have a new alternator and batteries passed a check. It has done it three times. We are 1100 miles from home. OBD and cigarette lighter fuse was blown as well.
View 10 RepliesVolkswagen :: 2005 Golf Loses Power / Runs Bad In The Heat
I have a 2005 VW Golf GL, automatic tranny, 2.0L 4-cyl that has some issues during long drives in hot weather. The 1st incident occurred when I was driving on the interstate in AZ w/the outside air temp around 100 degrees. It was a flat, desolate stretch of road and I had cruise control engaged as well as the A/C turned on. Suddenly it was as if someone had let off the gas pedal, as the car began quickly slowing down from 70 or 75 to maybe 40 or so. I turned off the cruise control & tried to increase back up to highway speed manually, but there was a long lag time before the engine kicked up again. I got it back up to full speed, then moments later it would kick down again unexpectedly as if I had taken my foot off the gas even though I hadn't (and I was still not climbing any hills). The temp gauge was still normal, but I turned off the A/C just in case this was making an unnecessary drain on the engine. Still the car would behave in the same way. I took the next exit, let it rest a bit, then limped along @ a slow speed on the frontage road until the next town. Suspecting it was the MAF sensor, I had it cleaned @ a repair shop before heading back home. It ran normal for a little while during the drive back, but then the same issue.
Back in town, I replaced the whole MAF sensor, since I was told just cleaning it was a temp fix. By this time the outside air temp was cooler, & short drives to/from work went fine. However, the next time I tried taking the car on a long hot drive (from SoCal into NV), the same issue happened again! So maybe it wasn't the MAF sensor afterall (unless the replacement was faulty?). Nevertheless, I took a wet washcloth & wrapped it around the sensor, & this seemed to do the trick to get me back home again. For now I am no longer going to risk taking this car on long hot trips until I can figure out what's wrong w/it & how to fix it. I do plan to take it to a mechanic but wanted to see first if this rings any bells for people on this forum.....??
2nd, (possibly related?) problem:
Today as I was coming home, the engine stalled when I tried to take off when the light turned green @ an intersection. I limped it to the other side, pulled over, & tried starting it up again. It started right away & then ran fine. I'd been low on gas but not so low that it should be an issue. I drove the rest of the way (on a highway) to a gas station (several miles) w/o A/C, no problem. I filled it up, did the washcloth trick once again in case that was related to the problem @ all, & drove the rest of the way home just fine. Battery is relatively new (about 2 yrs.) & alternator tested fine. Did not see any corrosion on a recent check of the battery posts. Outside air temp warm today, but not that bad...only mid-80s. Temp gauge read normal.
Bmw - 650i :: 2006 - Hesitates / Loses Power Under Acceleration
My 2006 650i loses power under moderate to heavy acceleration. If I accelerate from anywhere over 2500rpm, it will accelerate then the engine rpm will drop suddenly by 500-1500rpm, and then will continue to accelerate again from this lower rpm. It only seems to happen once each time I punch the pedal. The car does not throw any codes. I have had the dealer and Dinan Performance examine the problem and they have not been able to isolate the problem. They have run vacuum leakage tests, fuel pressure tests, and may have checked the throttle position sensor. This really takes the fun out of driving this car. I have about 50K miles on it.
View 2 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Acceleration Seems Sluggish When Getting On The Interstate
2007 F150 King Ranche 4wd 5.4 192000 miles.
I started noticing a little stutter when trying to hold 45 mph if I hit a mild incline, and also at 70 or so if i hit an incline.
Around the same time, I noticed that acceleration seemed sluggish when getting on the interstate. Gas mileage dropped from 16-17 mpg combined to 12-13 mpg combined.
Historically, since I bought the truck 3 years ago, if I go WOT to get up to highway speed (Not my normal mode of driving, more of a test) I would get a misfire on cylinder 8.
About 2 weeks ago, driving around town, I got a check engine light. The code said it was rich on bank 2. Cleared the code, it has not come back.
Here is what I have done:
Flushed the tranny (Vehicle history shows this has been done consistently since original purchase)
Changed all 8 plugs (none broke!) and all 8 COPs. - Fixed the misfire on cylinder 8.
Still sluggish and still have the stutter at 45 and 70 on an incline. I know it's not a racecar, but 0-60 in 19.6 seconds seems quite unreasonable.
New Fuel Filter
New Air filter
Cleaned MAF sensor
Had the back pressure on exhaust checked. No blockage there.
My torque app tells me the TPS is functioning normally.
No codes are being thrown, no CEL at this time.
What am I missing? I have a reader that will chart up to 8 sensors as I drive.
Prius (2010-12) :: Engine Choked Off - Sluggish Acceleration
Lately I have found that when I am trying to go up an incline on my road, that my car has trouble accelerating. Almost as if the engine is being choked off like it is about to stall or is out of gas. I have to press the accelerator almost to the floor to get up the incline. The suddenly it will lurch and accelerate rapidly as if I have put the car in Power Mode.
I should also add that this only happens when the engine is cold. I didn't have this problem last year at all. I usually wait a couple of minutes after the engine starts before I try to drive, but that doesn't seem to work.
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 2.7L V6 2WD - Codes For Sputtering / Sluggish Acceleration
2004 Santa Fe 2.7L V6 2WD ... Car was running fine, filled it with gas, and upon starting, heard a backfire into the intake manifold. It coded for a Cylinder 3 misfire so I had plugs and wires changed.
Now...The car starts, idles rough, accelerates sluggishly, and running rough any time it was around 2000 RPM. After I changed the plugs, it started bucking a little and stalls when I take off in the morning.
Coded and it's reading 7 codes, but some are duplicates:
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High
-P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input
-P0050 H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0030 HO2S Bank 1 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High (Shows Twice)
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input (Shows Twice)
After having a backfire and then cylinder misfire...replacing the plugs and wires.
Mazda - Mazda6 :: 2004 - Burning Oil Smell And Sluggish Acceleration
Car Details : 2004 Mazda 6 V6 3.0 L engine automatic transmission with 88,000 miles
Car Problem Vignette : After driving for a bit, say 20-30 mins (after my engine gets hot), I start to smell a burning oil smell. I’ve looked under the hood at my engine and do notice some oil leaking from the engine. This is not just some simple oil leaking after an oil change. The oil appears to be coming out of the engine "seams" itself. This has persisted for some time now. This problem started at least a year and a half ago now (12/05/12). I’ve had a mechanic take a look at the oil leak and supposedly he fixed the head gasket or valve cover gasket (I’m not sure which one), but the problem never fully resolved.
In a related or unrelated situation (I’m not sure yet if it is related) during this time my car started to jerk and sputter when I drove, so much so that I wasn’t sure it was going to make it to work one morning. The check engine light came on and I eventually made it to work and back home that day. It gave me a code that said one of my cylinders was misfiring. I proceeded to change all of my spark plugs to no avail. I then changed out one of my ignition coils to the bad cylinder misfire. It fixed my problems with the stuttering and I could drive my car again without fear of stalling. However, I still smelled burning oil. Over time I eventually started to feel my car struggle to take off during acceleration which felt different from when my car seemed like it was going to jerk and sputter to a stall. During this time frame one day I was at a stop light and when I went to take off, a huge plume of bluish / white smoke came out the exhaust and I smoke-screened the people behind me. After that incident, I ended up changing my positive crankcase valve (PCV). After changing my PCV my car felt like brand-new again! I could not believe it! My car started accelerating smoothly and driving so much better. I felt like I had gotten the “Zoom Zoom” back for my Mazda.
Sadly this didn’t last long, maybe a month at the most. My car started struggling during acceleration again and I started smelling burning oil again. I have dealt with this for over a year now. My car still runs and gets me around, but I can’t remember the last time that my car ran smoothly or didn’t smell like burning oil except for that time I changed the PCV. I have never seen any kind of smoke coming out of my exhaust again like that one experience.
Problems:
•Burning oil smell coming from my engine due to leaking oil coming out the "seams" of the engine
•Car is struggling when accelerating especially at lower gears
•I feel it every so often when I accelerate somewhere between 2nd and 3rd gear that the car jerks and makes this “chunk” type sound and feeling when it shifts gears.
Questions:What is wrong with my car? Are all these situations related? And what do I need to do to stop the oil leak and acceleration problem?
Lexus LS 2007+ :: Sluggish Acceleration Like Car Is In Wrong Gear And Has No Power
I have an 08 460 LS. I am experiencing sluggish acceleration. It feels like the car is in the wrong gear and has no power. This is intermittent and most of the time ok. Occasionally it is jerky when pulling out when it has proper power.
View 6 RepliesGrand Prix :: Sluggish Acceleration And Little Power - Car Rough Idling
I have encountered a problem with my car engine. I noticed the car was not putting out enough power. When I press on the gas pedal aka accelerator the car drives real slow or sluggish; it seems like there's something clogged. I recently replaced the alternator which was draining the car battery. Since then the car starts up without any problem. I assumed its the EGR valve. The original EGR valve was quite carboned up but the used one from the junk yard didn't do much justice to the problem.
Additionally, the car is rough idling which I believe was due to bad gasoline.
Catalytic converter was struck by curb and heat shield was damage. Everything seems to be intact!
2000 Pontiac Grand Prix SE 136km+
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Acceleration Is Also Getting A Bit Sluggish Especially Going Uphill
What is a "normal" number people see on their load factor? Mine was around 25-30 a few weeks ago but I noticed it is increasing to around 30-40 once I'm in gear, in park it's fine. My acceleration is also getting a bit sluggish too especially going up hills and my throttle isn't responding all the way, my turbo boost is normal though and I don't think there is any VGT stiction. I'm thinking either a fuel filter or a MAF sensor to start with. Fuel filters have been in exactly 10 months. Can a dirty fuel filter, air filter, or MAF sensor affect engine load at idle and how fast it accelerates? I feel like I'm pulling a trailer and with it being more sluggish, my transmission is shifting harder as well.
View 14 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: Severe Power Loss On Hill Climb - Traction Battery Loses Charge Quickly
My 2007 Prius has 120,000 miles. I live in a mountainous area. I need to climb 3 miles at 6% grade to get out of my neighborhood. Lately I've been noticing the traction battery loses charge fairly quickly and I've been thinking about replacing the battery. Much of my driving is in steep hills and I run a full charge cycle many times a day, so I guess I should expect some loss of life.
View 7 RepliesHyundai - Elantra :: 2004 - Relatively High RPMs When Accelerating With Sluggish Acceleration?
,I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra (stick shift) with about 104k on it. Was running absolutely great till about a month ago when I noticed that it was beginning to accelerate quite slowly. If I pushed it and got the RPMs up really high it would still pick up, but still not great performance. Also after pushing it a little hard there was a faint burning or smoke smell. Note, once it is up to speed say 60 or 70 it has no trouble maintaining such speeds. It just takes a while getting up to them. And if I really need to step on it the RPMs sky rocket with no real immediate increase in speed.
View 5 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Acceleration Sluggish - RPMs Takes A Few Seconds To Come Down
Triton 4.6, new air filter, throttle body cleaned, new fuel filter. Seems sluggish off idle, and when I let off accelerator, rpm's take a few seconds to come down. If the truck is setting still, a quick hit on the throttle takes a second for the engine to build rpm's.
View 10 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2006 - Overdrive Light Warning And Occasionally Loses Power On Acceleration
I have a 2006 Ford Escape that's turning into a mystery. Over the last few months the warning lights have been reporting issues with the overdrive. I've taken it to the mechanic who hasn't been able to identify the issue.
He's cleared the issues from the ECU, and the car doesn't complain for about 2 weeks, then it reports a different issue related to the overdrive (eg: OD or transmission).
Possibly related, the car occasionally loses power on acceleration. When taking off from a stop, it'll be really underpowered while getting up to speed. This only happens occasionally.
Is it a part failure, or could it be electrical or related to the sensors?
Subaru - Forester :: Loses Heat And AC When Car Warms Up
Took a 9 hour road trip and after an about an hour of driving we noticed AC slowly lost both cool temp and air flow (makes not different if AC button depressed or not). We could hear the fan but NO air was coming out - as time progressed the high setting on the fan made no noise at all. The vent did not blow any outside air either. There was about a gallon of water dripped from under the car when we reached our destination. The next 2 days, EVERYTHING returned to NORMAL during short trips around town. AC was cool but not cold. On the return road trip, again we slowly lost the AC - as we drove north to MA it got cold outside and when we tried the heat, it was the same problem - we could hear something like a fan but no air at all, heat or vent. No warmth when hand placed on vent and high fan setting made no noise.
The next day - a cold June morning - the heat works great - fan and all.This 2005 Subaru Forrester (100 thou miles - car fax ok) - was purchased from a used dealer last Nov and has been a never ending nightmare (including - but not limited too - the dealer replacing the engine post purchase) - we noticed that the AC was not working at the time of purchase and they signed a paper saying they would fix it - just took it in to the dealer last week to have them repair the AC and then we took the trip. Think all they did was replace the coolant and it blew cold when I left the dealer. I think this has been a problem from day one but could not really tell with the AC during the winter and did not take long trips in winter when using heat...sometimes I did question if the heat was working though.
Prius (Gen 3) :: 2012 - Jerky Acceleration From A Complete Stop In Summer Heat
My 2012 Prius Two did something odd today that it's never done before. Today, after leaving a meeting, I had two instances where accelerating from a complete stop was met with a delay followed by a jerky and sudden acceleration. This only happened twice out of the dozen-or-so complete stops I made. This only happened on my first couple of complete stops, then never did it again.
Here is some pertinent information:
- Silver Prius, no tint
- Car sat uncovered for about 2.5 hours
- Was 96 degrees outside, not a cloud for miles
- Turned the car on, opened the front two windows for hot air escape
- Turned the AC on to full
- Sat parked but car running for maybe 30 seconds before reversing out of parking spot
- Rolled up windows
- Battery fan was going strong
- No indicator lights came on to suggest an issue
- Happened on my first two complete stops at stop signs
- Never happened again
- Battery fan eventually simmered down
- Have 55,000 miles on the car
Prius (2004-09) :: Battery Loses Almost All Charge Over Night
The symptoms are: HV Battery loses almost all charge over night. Sometimes it won't start. HV battery loses charge fast while cruising in the city (I used to see it getting green at the highways with cruise control and now it doesn't happen). Red warning light goes on randomly.
View 6 RepliesMercury - Monteray :: 2004 - Suddenly Loses Power While Driving
My mercury Monteray 2004 model, suddenly loses power while driving. This has happened both on the freeway and on the local roads. I then have some how driven it to the shoulder. After stopping for couple of minutes when I restart the car it works and I have been able to drive it. I have taken it 3 times to the dealer and he has not been able to identify the problem. I am extremely scared of driving the vehicle. We even had flight recorder from the dealer on the vehicle and recorded the incident 3 to 4 times and still the dealer has not been able to figure out what the issue is. They say that they have tried several times and have not been able to recreate the issue. They say that they have tried to recreate the issue with a computer attached so they can record the issue when it occurs. But apparently they have never been able to recreate the issue. Other wise the van is in excellent condition. What could be the issue? We have not been able to use the van for over 6 months and do not know what to do with it.
View 3 RepliesCivic - Honda :: Loses Acceleration, Not The Transmission
My 2001 manual transmission Honda Civic lost acceleration and died a few weeks ago. Was pressing the gas all the way down and it just wouldn't go. I was able to get the ac/radio to turn on but couldn't get it restarted. After 5 minutes, I got it started and was able to get it through the intersection into a parking lot before it died again. It jerked and made loud popping noises and never would go more than 5 mph the whole time. Had it towed to the shop. They tried to start the car the next morning and did so with no problems. The check engine light showed a timing issue. Later that day, they restarted and no check engine light and no problems, but we knew the timing belt was way overdue (165000 miles, never replaced) so we all hoped I got a lucky warning and they replaced that and sent me on my way.
Two weeks later it did the same thing and died again. This time it was close enough to home to restart it and get it home. It jerked and popped and then at one point it was as if a clog got cleared and I shot off down the street, because I had the pedal to the floor. Then it started decelerating again but I got it home-smelled a slight burning smell. Waited until the next morning, suspecting it would be fine, and drove it to the shop myself with no problems. This time the codes showed it needed a new O2 sensor and a cam shaft sensor. They replaced those, feeling certain that must have been the issue.
Drove it home with no problem, went to leave the house that night and as soon as I got out of the driveway, it started doing it again. This time, though, the car did not die and I was able to turn it around and get it back into the driveway. The shop sent a tow truck and they've had it since, but can't get the car to replicate the problem and there is nothing showing up as being wrong (and I swear I'm not imagining this). Have been assured that it's not the transmission, not the fuel filter. They think it might be something electrical but can't figure it out.