Prius (2004-09) :: Air Condition Not Working At 86F
I bought this 2004 Prius in 2010 with 104K miles. Now at 117K. When outside temp goes to 86 F or above, the a/c blows warm air. If I stop A/C for a while, and restart it, it will blow some "cold" air for 10 seconds, then back to "warm" again. at below 82F it seems work normally, although I never felt "cold" enough like my other car Lexus LS 400 1998.
My mechanics found (using his diagnostic device) that the thermometer temp measure indicate as 28F when outside was at 90F. He can not figure it out. Is it possible that temp sensor (thermometer) gone bad? Or it is just a loose connection which might cause the resistance value change? He added enough refrigerate fluid for the car.
I noticed in glove box there are evidence of glue used. I suspect that the car had some body damage on right side and being fixed.
Anyway, the a/c problem so far happens consistently at around this temp. I have no any other problem on this beautiful car.
Prius (2004-09) :: A/C Only Blows Hot Air?
My low-pressure hose got a hole in it and now my A/C only blows warm air due to the leaked refrigerant. How to remove the hose at the connections as it is not using standard steel hose clamps.
View 6 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: AC 10 AMP Fuse Intermittently Blows
I have a 2004 Gen II that blows the A/C(Htr) 10 amp fuse. The dealer changed the inverter and replaced the fuse with a 15 amps which masked the problem. I have looked at the items that this feeds and have eliminated the: inverter (Dealer knows very little, Scary), A/C Control assembly, heater water pump assembly. I thought that since the Heater water pump assembly runs intermittently it might be that. Or could it be the diode in the relay that controls it? I cannot seem to find where it is located..
View 13 RepliesPrius (Gen 1) :: Lean Condition In Bank 1, Code
I have a 2002 prius with 130,000 miles on her, and so far so good except for a small problem for the last three months, I get an intermittent P0171 code. I know it means Lean Condition in Bank 1. However, I can run the car for weeks without it coming on. If I go full throttle getting onto the highway for example it may come on, but even then its not all the time. Not sure why only full throttle. But if I drive her gently, I will never see the CEL at all.
Fuel economy is around the usual for me at 46-49 mpg with average speeds of 75-85 mph. I don't think its vacuum related.
Prius (Gen 2) :: Check Air Condition Connection Message?
recently I change my stock stereo to an after market one n now mfd screen as the check air condition connection message on it so did some research n found out I have to change it out so went to a local yard and bought one and same message, changed it out for another one same thing so about five trys later so same thing! Is it possible that all those screen were broken or is there another problem goin on?
View 6 RepliesPrius (2010-12) :: Noisy Heat / Air Condition Fan
This can be heard at low speed. two to three bars on the blower speed indicator. It sound like running water. It is not the air conditioner when the compressor in on.
I can not listen to the radio all the time..... when it is peace time, radio is turned off. It sounds like the bearing is going. Had it looked at and was told that it is normal. The DC motor is suppose to be quiet?
Lexus GX 2004-09 :: How To Check Fluid Condition - No Dipstick
So I have been told I need to have the transmission fluid changed in my GX470 by the dealer. They have said that off and on when I take it in for an oil change or some other services since 60K miles. I have never felt a difference in the transmission performance and have had no 'quirks' with it like I have had with other cars when the trans fluid is nearing the end of its useful life.
So I am concerned that since it is a 'sealed' unit that has no dipstick to check the fluid condition, they have a 'safe' way to tell me I need an expensive service when I really do not.
I am not afraid to work on my cars (I used to work on my cars including my built up rotary with a street port) but have just been too busy to do that stuff for the past 15+ years and am starting to get back into maintaining my own cars again.
Prius (Gen 3) :: Never Get To Ready Condition After Pressing Power Button
2011 Prius with 30,000
At the first start of day when I pressed on brake pedal and got the green light on power button as usual I pressed power button and never got ready condition, trying to figure out what is happening I have had this condition occur almost every morning (outside air temp around 40 degrees F) also when I went to train station to pick up my daughter I shut off for about ten minutes and it happened again.
Prius (Gen 3) Fuel :: MPG Results With Three Different Tires And Driving Condition Identical
In the 30,000 miles I have driven my Gen III, it has gone through three different sets of tires. Driving conditions during this entire time have been identical, and temperatures have been fairly constant. Therefore, I think my fuel economy data can be a good example of the impact that tire selection can have on your fuel economy.
I currently have 2400 miles on the Michelin Energy Saver A/S. These are the MPG stats, manually calculated.
Highest: 53.4
Average: 48.2
Lowest: 45.0
Standard Deviation: 2.4
In the 14,000 miles I had the Michelin Primacy MXV4, these were the mpg stats:
Highest: 50.1
Average: 42.7
Lowest: 37.0
Standard Deviation: 2.6
(I may be missing 2-3 tanks, so this is probably 90% of the fill-ups during the time in which I had the Primacy MXV4.)
Lastly, in the 14,000 miles that I had the OE Yokohama Avid S33d Tires, these were the MPG stats.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Lean Condition Bank 1 And 2 / Random Misfire
2006 f-150 with a 4.6L. Its got 175k on the clock and ran like a sewing machine despite little maintenance other than oil changes. Recently it started running like crap; no power and missing so he borrowed a scanner and it was giving multiple codes. Here's what we have done so far, not necessarily in this order :
1.Checked for vac leaks with carb cleaner (this can be tough as engine runs crappy and hard to detect minor changes in rpms while your under the hood) no leaks detected yet
2. Changed the plugs, all looked good except for one which was heavily fouled and the electrode ate away mostly, I wasnt there and he doesnt remember which one but have a suspicion, more on that in a min
3. Changed most of the COPs and checked them all with a spark tester, all are firing.
4.Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner
5. Checked back pressure on the exhaust by removing an upstream o2 sensor and holding a plastic fitting hooked to a pressure gage long enough to get a reading, about 1 lb idling to maybe 2 max when engine is reved, gage is not the best and fluctuates a 1/2 lb or so. Exhaust does not smell of rotten eggs.
6. Changed the fuel filter, it was terrible
7. Ran a bottle of Seafoam in the tank
8. Took the throttle body and egr valve off and checked for carbon stoppage, the holes in the egr were not blocked
9. checked the PVC valve and line and both elbows
7. checked the injector connectors with a noid light for signal, they all flash, checked the injectors them selves with a multimeter set for ohms, all about from 13.5-14.5. This should mean they arent fried but could they still be stopped up? They all sound like they are pumping when you listen with a mechanics stethoscope
9. Changed all 4 o2 sensors as this had never been done anyway
10. Compression check on cylinders, all within 10% of each other at about 180 lbs. When we pulled the plugs they all looked good except for # 7 which was heavily fouled ( I suspect the same on the original plugs) and again with a bad electrode, the part coming out of the porcelin. Intrestingly, this was an autolite plug, the rest were motorcraft, I hoped this was somehow just a bad plug but no change with a new MC plug
11. Changed the injector on #7
The scanner reads lean condition on banks 1 and 2 and random misfires on #4 and # 7 still. Per a troubleshooting tip online, we sprayed some carb cleaner in a small vac line coming off the manifold to induce a rich condition and the scanner showed the o2 sensors go to .900 which is what they are supposed to do per the guide. This means they are functioning correctly and a bonafide lean condition exists. I am leaning towards a vacuum leak around the plastic manifold under the aluminum one, maybe the gaskets but would like to rule out the egr valve, could it be the culprit?
I have even considered the possibility that the PCM is bad, though not likely. I have read to detect a vac leak you can hook the scanner up and spray the carb cleaner around on the manifold and lines with the scanner hooked up watching the scanner PID for the o2 sensors and when they detect the cleaner, they will hit that .800-1.0 meaning the engine sucked the cleaner in and you have found your leak. The exhaust smells rich. If it is a vac leak, you would think it should be a massive leak and not hard to detect, as crappy as the truck runs. I have searched the forums for days and exhausted about all I know to do.
Most important note: early on I suspected low fuel pressure as a possibility; with no schrader valve on the fuel rail and no easy spot to T into the system, we were scratching our heads how were gonna measure psi but the scanner reads absolute fuel rail pressure, gives about 40-43 psi. I hope the scanner is telling us what we need to know there, would prefer a mechanical gauge on the rail!
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Intermittent No Start Condition And No OBD Codes
2006 F150 4.2 fuel issue? I get an intermitent no start condition and no obd codes. Then I discover that it really isn't intermittent, it only occurs after I have been running the engine. It will not start for at least 5-10 minutes after I have driven a few miles and shut the engine off. So if I wait 5-10 minutes then she starts and runs just fine. I played with this in the driveway to recreate this condition so I could determine if I had a spark or fuel issue (I have spark during no start). I found that 50% of the time I could start it right back up immediately after I shut the engine off. But if I shut it off right away again, then I got the no start condition again and have to wait another 5-10 minutes.
Now with cold engine I can start the motor over and over. To fix this I read forum after forum, which led me to decide that I had a fuel pump driver problem (module) located on back axle under spare tire. I replaced this and restarted the engine many times. The problem seemed to be gone but this only lasted about 30 minutes. Then it would not start at all and still no codes. I plugged my old module back in and the truck fired right up. So I decided I needed to (flash) pcm for new part but that changes nothing. Still no start with new module and runs with old module. I also replaced relay in fuse panel.
Prius (Gen 3) :: AC Blows Hot Air
Went to turn on the AC on our 2011 Prius and its blowing out nothing but hot air . The AC lights light up as if it's on and operates as if it's on but it feels like the heater .
View 13 RepliesFord A/C :: 2004 - Air Blows Behind Dash While Going Over 70 Mph?
When I took my 2004 Expedition to the Ford dealership they said everything looked fine and they couldn't recreate the problem because they are not allowed to go over the speed limit. Here is the issue:
If I drive on the highway over 70 mph for a good amount of time, eventually I can hear the air blow heavily behind the dash board (passenger side front corner) but barely any air blows out the vents. In order to correct the problem I have to stop or slow down below 60 mph. I've tried every combination possible of turning off the unit, turning on the heater, switching from auto to floor, back to auto without any success.
However, occasionally if I go over 70 for a long period of time and deal with the issue until I get to my destination, on a few occasions when I've stopped i can something drop like the a/c vent got stuck behind the dash. Very weird issue and a long trip over this past weekend was very unpleasant and I'm thinking about getting a new car because I can't take this issue any longer.
Buick - Parkavenue :: AC Vent On Driver Side Blows Cold But On Passenger Side Blows Extremely Hot Air
I have a Buick park avenue 1998, 3.8L V6 engine. the problem is: The ac vent on the driver's side blows cold air but on the passenger side blows EXTREMELY hot air. no matter how cold or hot you set the ac it blows at the same temperature on both sides. Florida heat is setting in and my passengers are melting. I am really hopping that is not something to bad and that I can fix it myself. Tip: this started happening after i had the alternator and the battery replaced.
View 1 RepliesJeep - Liberty :: 2004 - AC Blows Hot Air When Sitting Still
My 2004 Liberty just started this a couple weeks ago. When sitting still, the AC blows hot air. It cools down nicely when you start moving. This makes traffic lights and people who don't go when the light turns green VERY annoying. While waiting, I can hear the compressor coming on and off. Thinking perhaps the radiator fan wasn't coming on, I looked at the radiator fan fuse, 40 amps, and it looks fine. I even checked it with an ohm meter. With the car sitting still, engine running and AC on, I don't think the radiator fan is going. Maybe one of these two relays?
Important details (or not)5 speed transmission125,000 miles"What color is the car?" Blue.Two wheel drive. (alas, it's a Jeep in style only)
Ford - Escape :: 2004 - A/C Blows Hot Air While Driving
2004 Ford Escape air conditioner works GREAT when sitting idle. Air conditioner blows HOT air while driving. Seems like the faster I go or the more load on the engine the hotter it blows. Weird?
View 2 RepliesMitsubishi - Galant :: 2004 - A/C Blows Air Intermittently?
Over the winter, the A/C in my '04 Mitsubishi Galant quit working. It wouldn't blow any cold air at all, but I didn't mind too much since it wasn't hot out. In preparation for a hot NC summer, I took my car to a dealership about a month and a half ago to have the A/C fixed. They replaced the condenser, and the car started blowing cold air, but it would only do so intermittently. Two weeks later, took the car back into the dealership for them to have a look, but it blew cold air during the entire time that the mechanic was looking at it. I specifically asked about the compressor, but he said that it seemed to be fine. Since then, I've been trying to figure out what causes the A/C to stop working.
I haven't been able to find an exact cause, but the A/C will typically blow cold air when the car is not moving or when I am braking. It is also more likely to work if it isn't hot outside (which isn't exactly useful). If I am on the highway, applying the gas, or if it is hot outside, it is much less likely to work. As I am driving, I can hear the A/C click on and off; for example, if I apply the brake, I will hear the A/C click on, and it will blow cold air briefly (around 30sec - 1min or so). To complicate things, recently the A/C has blown fog in addition to cold air. This has happened three times. I'm at a loss for what the issue is...
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Air Blows But Not Cold
Having difficulties with an air conditioner. 2006 KR F150. The air blows, but not cold. I just had everything checked in regards to pressures, freon, etc., but still only blows ambient temperatures.
View 3 RepliesPrius (2010-12) :: 2011 Blows Headlamps Way Too Often / Not HID
2011 Prius has about 85K miles on it, and we have gone through about 8 pairs of running headlamp bulbs. I called the dealership and they said that there is no known issue for this. Sure seems like a voltage regulator-type issue. Is it possible that a single wiring harness can affect both left and right? It's strange, because if the left one blows today, the right one will blow within a day or two. I've tried every brand of bulb, and no, I do not touch the glass with my hands.
View 19 Replies