Passat (B6) :: 2007 - Long Cranking / Starting
I replaced the battery in my 07 3.6 4mo thinking it was in need due to the cranking time getting longer and longer recently. I began to notice this since the winter. I think it was somewhat there in the summer and fall also but when its super cold or the car has been run in a day or so it seems to be worse. Anyway replaced the battery and it didn't change much at all.
View 16 RepliesFord Excursion :: 2000 - Damage From Not Driving For Long Distance?
I have a 2000 X 7.3 diesel with under 100,000 miles. I drive it about 10,000 miles a year, all towing. However it does get used everyday driving a student to the bus, a distance of about 10 blocks. There is an engine block heater which I use all winter but the engine never warms up on the ten block run. I do service the engine twice a year, every six months. What damage am I doing and what can I do to prevent any damage?
View 14 RepliesLexus IS 2014+ :: Will Putting New Lowering Springs Damage Original Shock In The Long Run?
I want to lower the car with RSR DOWN SPRINGS but I have some people telling me that I will destroy my shocks in time and other people saying its fine.
View 14 RepliesPontiac - Grandam :: 2001 - Random Starting / Fuel Pump Will Not Kick In
I have a 01 GrandAM 3.4. I have a reoccurring problem with this car. The car will randomly not start, and die while driving. Some days I can drive the car with no problems, and some days it will only have starting problems. These problems are very random. When the car doesn't start it will crank and turn over however the fuel pump will not kick in. You can turn the key on and off several times, and it will fire up. This DOES NOT seem to be a problem with the passlock theft system. The security light has never came on, and you do not have to wait any amount of time for the car to start, you only have to flip the key back and forth several times. The car after running will occasionally die, after the car dies it will usually start back up on the first try. I am very puzzled by this problem not sure if it is the ignition switch, fuel pump, or something in between.
View 19 RepliesLS / MKZ :: 2002 3.9l LSE Cranks For A Long Time Before Starting
I have a 2002 v8 lse with 92000. When i go to start it after it has been sitting for 20 minutes or more it cranks for a long tome before starting. When it does start it idles fine but has a strong fuel smell. There are no codes and no problems once it starts. However it starts up right away in cold weather. It seems like a flooding issue. The fuel pressure is within range but it does seem to bleed off quicker than most cars i work on when the engine is no longer running..
Unfortunately I don't have the specs on on fuel pressure runoff. I suspect the fuel pressure sensor/regulator. I don't believe it would be an injector due to the fact it never runs rough or misses once started and if it was the pump it wouldn't give off a fuel smell in the exhaust once started.
Saab - 9-3 :: Intermittent Starting When Car Has Been Driven For Long
I have a 2003 Saab 9-3 convertible that is having intermittent starting problems. It seems to happen when the car has been driven long distances and the weather is hot or when it is raining. It cranks fine but will not start. When it is hot, I open the hood and it starts after about 10 minutes. When it is wet is starts after being cranked for a white. My mechanic has replaced the ignition cassette and the spark plugs and it has not fixed the problem.
View 4 RepliesPassat (B7) :: ABS Kick In On Its Own On Left Front Tire
The ABS will kick in on it's own on the left front tire? I drive on the highway every day, and on an on-ramp, going approximately 40-50mph, making a wide right turn, the left front wheel will activate ABS on it's own. If I accelerate throught the whole turn, this does not happen. It is not wet outside, there's no visible liquid or oil on the pavement.
View 10 RepliesCamry :: Just Crank And Not Starting After Filling Up / Long Drive
Went on a long drive today. 800+ miles. Stopped to fill up around 500 in. Attempted to turn the car back on and it would just crank and not start. This has actually been ongoing for the past 2 years, but only when I take long trips like these. Got it to start after putting my foot on the pedal a little bit, but would idle roughly and die shortly after. Got it going again, and it ran fine once I started going after that.
Decided to check my scangauge, and it had a pending code of P2196. From what I understand according to AllData, the O2 sensor is running rich, which seems odd to me as I'm not burning more gas than usual (Achieved 33mpg according to hand calculations).
Starting to bug me that it's doing this. Car has 113k miles. All maintenance is caught up on the car. Battery is 3 years old (Not sure if that's a factor at all in this).
Passat (B5) :: CCM Damage / Gas Cap Lid Won't Open Hitting The Switch
2000 Passat 2.8L. The start of the problem happened when my gas cap lid would not open hitting the switch thus causing me to strip down the lining in the trunk and manually opening the cap by pumping the actuator body. At the time that was the only problem. I couldn't find the source of the problem so I open the cover for the fuse panel and tried to see if I had a blown fuse. I tested all the fuses and they were all fine.
A few weeks later I drive home from work one night, and since I didn't work the next day Sunday, I didn't find out until Monday that my car would not crank. My father said it might have been the battery so he tried to jump it with his car but still no luck. We even tried pushing the car to its start (my car's stick) and put it in second gear and still no luck. My uncle a mechanic said the starter relay was probably faulty so we checked that out. After taking out relay 185 which is in the 12th spot on the B5 relay panel, we thought it might have been the cause since when we removed the cap and wiggled the components a bit, the car would indeed start. This led us to believe that there could be a possible electrical problem that isn't allowing the relay to work on its own.
We then head on over to the VW dealership which is about 5 minutes from my house and they said it could be the relay, or it could be a damaged CCM and told us to check if the driver floor carpet was wet. We stripped down the carpet and indeed the carpet was wet on the inside along with the wires leading to the CCM. We took out the CCM though and appears as though it was dry and not damaged so I think we're okay with that.
We tried to find where the water came from and he said something about the drain hole under the battery and when he said that I remembered that there was a little water on the car battery after it rained which I thought should not occur. We removed the car battery and noticed that the drain hole was completely clogged and there was water seeping through other holes which is how the carpet got wet. So anyway, my uncle modified relay 185 somehow so that I could atleast get the engine to run. However, the power windows still do not work, interior lights do not work, side view mirrors do not work, sunroof does not work, trunk/gas cap lid do not work, remote button, and all other interior lights do not work despite being able to drive the vehicle. The parts and service guy at the dealer said to replace the CCM could be 600 plus the time to install/program it.
Passat (B7) :: Regular Unleaded Gas Will Damage Engine?
I have a 3.6 SEL Premium. Can I put regular unleaded gas in it, or will it damage the VR6 engine?
View 7 RepliesPassat (B6) :: Won't Start At First Kick And Idle Is Almost Always Lumpy - CEL Light On
Still trying to resolve this issue. I've replaced the coils and now the 6 month old NGK plugs with Bosch plugs. I bought a kit from ECU; the red coils and the Bosch plugs. Car revs smoothly no hiccups all the way on up. But sometimes the car won't start first kick, and the idle is almost always lumpy. CEL light has been on for more than several weeks. Last time I took it to the dealer to clear. It was back on the next day. 112 K (km) on car. 2009 TSI 2.0...
Parts Source will read the codes, and now there are plenty. I've looked at other threads re PCV valves and air leaks, but I don't believe they're related to the idle issue I'm having. More pronounced in the colder weather I might add.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Long Starting And Turbo Not Working
My stereo fuse had blown off and while trying to find it, i removed all the fuses one by one to see which one was blown. I found the fuse, changed it, stereo was back to life. Only problem is that right before removing the fuses the car was driving normal. After checking the fuses the car seems to take longer to start; starter keeps turning for twice the time it did before. Also it seems as if the turbo is not even there. Btw the car is a golf mk4 tdi 150 bhp 2001 model
View 4 RepliesHonda - Accord :: 2005 EX V6 Hard Starting / Cranks A Bit Too Long
My 2005 Honda Accord EX V6 with 118,000 miles cranks a bit too long. The issue was due to corroded battery terminals. I cleaned the positive terminal of its snow but it seemed to be the same. Yesterday I also cleaned the negative side. It starts better, but I had hoped that after a day of driving, it would have returned to normal. How long should I drive it before I pull the battery and get it tested? There seems to be plenty of cranking going on. It just hesitates and eventually starts. I drove about 40 minutes to work this morning and the same coming home, all on the highway. If I restart shortly after shutting down, it starts just as quickly as it used to.
View 10 RepliesPassat (B5) :: Piston Damage After Broken Timing Belt
I recently broke a timing belt on my 1999 AEB 1.8t Passat. I'm in the process of doing all of the repairs myself while working around my college and work schedule. I have yet to pull the head off, and I'm scared of what I'll find when I do. Should I expect any piston damage? I have one completely broken valve and a bunch of bent valves.
View 12 RepliesPassat (B5) :: 2003 1.8t Wagon - RPMs Kick Up On Cold Start
I recently acquired a 1.8t auto Wagon from a friend who passed away, I dont wanna sell it, so I figured why not keep it. So here's my question. On cold starts the RPM's kick up above 1K and then drop to the proper idle speed. The engine purrs nicely, but I have noticed that it sounds beefy inside the cabin during warm up. I can feel the light vibrations on the steering wheel. After I start driving the car warms up and everything seems normal. It just sounds like a fan or blower motor has come on with the engine. No ticking or anything like that. Is this normal?
View 5 RepliesPassat (B5) :: Engine And Tranny Kick Back When Release Gas Pedal?
I have weird kick back when I release gas pedal. Why?
View 2 RepliesCorolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Long Cranks And Several Tries Before Starting - U0100 DTC Code
I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla (It has a 1ZZFE engine). The car for a long time was a little problem when starting (long cranks and several tries before starting, but no check engine light at all), then, after adjusting the PVC hose for 3 days the car worked perfectly, but one week ago, in the morning when trying starting, it was impossible. I scanned and got a U0100 code, tested crankshaft position sensor and it is ok, tried with the other key but same result, only cranks, no start at all. After scanning, it started briefly and suddenly went off, tried again, and only cranks.
View 1 RepliesPassat (B7) :: Driver Side Kick Panel Removal For Speakers Installation
How to remove the drivers side kick panel? It has the hood release lever, which is holding me back from figuring out how to get it off. I don't want to keep experimenting because of the chance of breaking something. I'm trying to install some after market speakers and need to get behind it to run the speaker wire to the door.
View 3 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 E350 - Long Crank Before Starting
I have a 2001 E-350 w/7.3. When I start the truck first thing or when engine is cooled down it starts fine. I checked the high pressure pump pressure and it is 500 - 600 psi start up great. But when engine warms and try to start it it has long crank before starting. I checked pressure and it is between 425 to0 450 and takes awhile for it to get to 500 or better. Is this a cause of the high pressure oil pump ? I changed the oil and still does same thing. Also I noticed that after engine is hot and I try to start it, while cranking the engine the oil gauge does not move. I don't know if it supposed to when you crank it or not. I thought on other 7.3's I've worked on that the gauge builds up pressure....
View 14 Replies