Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Filling Up Oil Cooler After Replacement
Is there a way to fill up the reservoir for hpop and cooler after replacement? I didn't want to burn down the starter and kill batteries cranking all day until everything is full. I did the usual upgrades on the motor and about ready to try and get it started up. Where does the oil drain to when filter is removed?
View 3 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: No Boost After Oil Cooler Replacement
Got everything done today. So I thought. Went for a drive. turbo not building boost. I checked the map hose and barb. Clean. Checked connection at ebp and vct, both plugged in. No exhaust leaks. turbo shafts feels good and spins good. made boost fine before repairs. 2006 6.0 f250 .....
View 14 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Oil Cooler Backflush Before Replacement
2004 6.0 90k miles... Oil cooler plugged & coolant puking due to egr cooler flash boil.
Flushed the coolant with tap water then replaced water pump and tstat weekend before. This week backflushed heater core & block. This weekend backflushed the oil cooler. My coolant system would be considered severe contamination due to tap water use resulting in rust. Average ect was 195-205 & avg eot was 230-240 before flush. Here's a baseline before flush.
Pulled the oil cooler exhaust cap, opened both block drains, pulled lower radiator hose, & hooked up otc blast vac. The pressure was pretty intense holding the hose into the bore just running water through it. Hit the trigger about 20 cycles of water then air blasts.
Filled with 1/2 gal of restore & tap water. Ran it for 2 hours with RPM 1k+ 95% of the time. Drove at 65 mph & grabbed some peak temps.
Then dumped restore while hot, was pretty cloudy but not that dirty. Let engine cool then filled with tap water, ran for 10 mins then dumped again. Stuck hose in degas with only the the drivers block plug pulled & revved engine a few times to have the water pump push any crap out. Pulled the oil cooler exhaust cap, opened both block drains, pulled lower radiator hose, & hooked up otc blast vac again. This time the back pressure on oil cooler was much less vs first time.
Took a mason jar with restore plus in it & boiled it in water. Got it up to 190 then poured it directly into the oil cooler & let it sit for 30 minutes. Then backflushed again.
Put rest of the whole gallon of restore plus in & topped off with tap water. Ran again for 2 hours with RPM 1k+ 95% of the time. Drove at 65 mph & grabbed some peak temps.
Dumped restore plus while hot & it was very green & contaminated with rust. Topped off with tap water, ran for 10 mins at 190 then dumped. Revved the engine again with hose in the degas bottle & only drivers block plug out to blow more junk out. Filled with tap water & dumped again.
It was late last night so I filled it with distilled & parked it. Plan to do 3 straight distilled water flushes this week running rpm 1k+ for 1 hour each time in hopes to rid all the chemicals.
The backflush didn't result in lower deltas, but it didn't puke from the degas bottle at all during both chemical flushes. The oil cooler definitely needs replaced but at least it's not puking anymore & will hopefully stay this way for about 1k miles of driving so I can let the coolant filter rid anything that breaks loose during driving. My hope was to get some sort of flow across the egr cooler to stop the flash boiling puking & get as much junk out of the system as possible. So I guess there's some sort of achievement in the end.
Currently running cheap regular green (mixes with all) elc. I am running the cheap stuff because when the coolant was puking a gallon of coolant every trip i couldn't justify upgrading to the Rotella ELC yet. Plan is to flush with rest of restore(1/2 gallon) after oil cooler r&r then switch to Rotella ELC.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: EGR Cooler Hose Replacement
My orange one leaks, bought a blue one. How the heck to I install it? I have decent tools.
I reviewed the threads on coolant flush and fill, and bought a coolant filter kit, I will be doing that at the same time.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Intermittent Start After Oil Cooler Replacement
I had a bunch of down time from knee surgery and needed to replace the oil cooler. All OEM parts were used except for egr cooler being sinister that came new but hadn't installed. Truck ran fine but deltas were getting 20-25 while unloaded. I have replaced some of the pigtails when needed, but having it apart for the other work. I looked very close at the main engine harness which was oil soaked and carefully unwrapped it checking for any problems. A couple of the pigtails were replaced and all re wrapped with abrasive type tape. All connections looked good but hit the key and no start just cranking over. Did it a couple more times and it fires but rough. Trying again and it's sounding new. Shut off re try no start. I didn't touch anything other than egr cooler oil cooler and wiring harness...
Koeo. Koer
Ipr 14.8. 33.4
Icp. 2. 950
Icv .23. 1.09-1.43 fluctuated
Ficm in 12.9v cranking 48.5 and 48.5 running.
Batteries are fully charged with trickle chargers
13.9 at batteries
Fuel bowl is 57 then 55 if it starts.
Every so often it's showing ficm sync 1 and sync 1 and starts and runs smoothly. It's non consistent. I've checked continuity and get from pcm pins 2ohms resistance. I'm thinking wiring harness but really cleaned it and checked it thoroughly. I've hit the wall. How to track down my issue?
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Coolant Flush After Oil Cooler Replacement?
I just had my oil cooler and EGR cooler replaced, and I'm now consider doing a coolant flush with Restore/Restore+ to ensure the coolant system is clean. I know this might be backwards and perhaps should have done the flush first, but schedule and such did not allow. I do have a coolant filter.
View 5 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Stalling Intermittently After Oil Cooler Replacement
Recently had an oil cooler EGR cooler replaced. On my first big tow broke down on a major highway. Got it towed to the dealership and diagnosed as a blown out IPR screen. Replace the entire IPR and had no problems the entire trip. A few week later I am sensing the same problems again that i had before the major blowout. Randomly while driving down the highway the truck will stall for a half second or so and then kick back in and continue fine. Seems like the truck loses fuel for a second and then regains itself.
And it's not always at speed either...sometimes just coming to a stop I can feel it. Now this has only happened three times in the past 10 days or so but seems like it needs to get addressed. These symptoms are similar to what I experienced before my major IPR blowout. After it was replaced I didn't have any of the stalling problems but its now happening again. Could I possibly have some gunk in the IPR again that's causing this intermittent problem? Or something else altogether?
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Possible Plugged Oil Cooler Or EGR Cooler?
I have a 04 that has 153k on it. 4" cat back exhaust with no cat. SCT tuner running a custom street tune. New FMIC with the extra tune on it. Head gaskets where done at 90k along with ARP studs. EGR cooler, The oil cooler was cleaned, New coolant tank. 1-new head and The cooling system was flushed at 90K. All done by the dealer along with some other items. Installed a bypass coolant filter at least 60k miles ago.
I have been having a no heat issue sometimes at idle this past winter and a mystery loss of coolant. I replaced the cap with a OEM one. I did a vacuum test on the coolant it held at 25 inches for well over a 1/2 hour. Pulled the egr valve it looked somewhat like tar inside not 100% dry. At startup it sometimes blows some white smoke and other times it's black smoke. I've had the scan gauge on for the last week to check my deltas.
Running 65mph the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
Running 70mph the deltas stayed around 14-16 degrees diff.
Yesterday just running around rural roads 55mph and under the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
I have not found a lower pressure gauge to do a coolant pressure test.
It does look as though it has burped the cap. Because of the deltas I'm thinking a plugged oil cooler my be the problem.
Passat (B6) :: Oil Dripping From Joint Between Inter Cooler And Turbo
Not sure whats going on here. Could this be normal and I've just never seen it? I dont see oil ANYWHERE else under there. Just in this 1 spot.
View 3 RepliesPassat (B5) :: 2000 - Boost Decreases To 5 Psi / Oil Cooler Needed?
I've got a 2000 passat 1.8t (ATW) Tiptronic with a GIAC chip a trubo smart bov and a new performance boost gauge. I've got a problem. My gauge habitually indicates me that i peek to around 15psi to after drop to around 11 but if i drive my car to hard for to long or i get to around 180kph, my boost decreases instantaneously to 5 psi. After, the only way to regain my boost is to let the car cool down on idle for 2min an then turn it off for 2min.
After that, every thing comes back to normal. If I don't do that, the car wont regain boost. You can drive like a grand-mother for 45 min and put your foot down you'll still see the boost go up to 5psi and just stop increasing. It's like it set itself an other max boost limit. I though it could be some sort of a safe mode because the turbo is over heating (it's red hot). I thought a oil cooler could maybe resolve the problem but i don't want to spend 200buck on that if it doesn't do anything.
Passat (B6) :: Oil Cooler Have To Be Removed To Change Out Oil Pressure Switch?
Does the oil cooler have to be removed to change out the oil pressure switch? If not, any pix or how-to posted around? Done a Google but apart for Jetta 2.0L nothing seems to come up
Believe it's located on top of the oil filter bracket according to ETKA, but that doesn't show what components are around or on top of it
Am fitting a 42DD re-location unit so I can have the switch and a GlowShift oil pressure sender onto it. Car was on a lift yesterday but couldn't see a way to get at it
Passat (B5) :: 2002 / 1.8T - Small Leak In Transmission Cooler Line At Radiator Connection
Had a small leak on show up in my transmission cooler line at the radiator connection. After replacing the o-ring, which was pinched, I had lost some fluid up to about 3-4 oz. I had stopped by the local VW dealer and picked up a liter of ATF fluid and noticed the colors of the fluid differed from what drained out from the cooler line. Fluid that drained out was a cloudy darker green/grey and the new ATF fluid had a clear yellowish tint. Is this vehicle equipped with a closed loop cooling system or does it use the actual ATF fluid as the cooling medium?
View 2 RepliesPassat (B6) :: A/C Compressor Replacement?
Looking for instructions on how to replace the A/C compressor and all the parts needed to do a good job?
View 3 RepliesPassat (B5) :: ABS Module Replacement?
Looking for info on replacing ABS module themselves? I was wondering how difficult this job can be.
View 4 RepliesPassat (B5) :: Transmission Replacement Is Required
I purchased a 2002 VW Passat Wagon two months ago. Upon Purchasing the Car the dealer notified me I would need to purchase a "Torque Converter." I failed to do so. Before I changed the oil, the car was running great! And, after the oil change. The car began to act up and the transmission would kick back!
After, I took it to a local dealer. They told me "Transmission Replacement is required," and Internal Slippage and Fluid Burnt.
I just don't understand, how the transmission began to act up after I changed the oil.
I can reverse the car great, and shift to drive.
Passat (B5) :: Stop Light Is Out - Replacement?
One of my stop lights is out. Do you have to remove the entire light assembly from inside the cargo area of a wagon to replace the stop light? I tried searching for stop light replacement info without success. Any links or pictures available showing how it comes out?
View 5 RepliesPassat (B5) :: 2002 - Key Fob Battery Replacement?
I'd like to know how to replace the battery in the key fob for my 2002 Passat Wagon. I looked in the manual but I could not find it and it says that the dealer should do it. I am aware that sometimes the fob may need to be re-programmed but my wife's key works perfectly so I will assume that the battery has gone out. The key works just fine when used manually.Also, what kind of battery does it take??
View 2 RepliesPassat (B6) :: Rear Brake Pad Replacement
I just returned from the stealership for the 30K service on my 2006 Passat. The dealer says the back brakes will need replacement soon and there is a special tool for opening the caliper due to the electric parking brake. What tool do I need to do this myself? I have done brakes many times and normally it is a 30-45 minutes job for both axles. Also, with that few miles, will I need new rotors?
View 22 RepliesPassat (B5) :: After Replacement Of Batteries Unable To Use Key?
My key battery was running low so I popped into a local motor shop and the chap replaced the batteries for me. However since this time I've been unable to use the key. I've checked the placement of the batteries and they are correctly mounted and sit properly (correct way around etc).Afte4r replacement of bad
View 2 Replies