Passat (B5) :: Loss Of Power When Accelerate Medium To Hard - P0012 And P0304 Codes
Everytime i accelerate medium to hard with the CEL on like this it starts flashing and i loose power. Feels like a sputtering (in idle too). Fuel injection system cleaned and was 75% better for 1 week, but now back to same old. Reset CEL and comes back 100-200 miles later. Cam tensioner? Fuel filter? Coil packs? One of my fan clutches is pretty much out, related?
New spark plugs, maybe needs a tune up...supposedly TB was changed, but i have 106K on 1.8T 2001.5 Passat. New oil pump, timing belt tensioner put on. However A/C belt snapped and had to be put back on then tightened to work. Maybe they didn't adjust correctly at shop the timing belt tensioner?
Passat (B6) :: Loss Of Braking Power - Slight Pulsation In Brake Pedal
Ever since I took my 18" wheels off for the winter and put the stock VW 16's with snow tires I have on multiple occasions almost rear ended the car in front of me when I experienced what seemed like a loss of brake pressure. The brake pedal did not feel spongy or anything but often in this situation the abs brakes seem to kick in for no reason. I feel a slight pulsation in the brake pedal which I can only assume is an activation of abs. I'm wondering if this slight pulsation (1 second duration ) is causing my brakes to be less effective. The pavement has been completely dry and I was not traveling fast enough, nor pressing the brakes hard enough to cause the tires to lock and trip the abs.
View 4 RepliesPassat (B6) :: Hard To Start Every Time After Adding Gas
My 2006 FSi Passat is having problem starting every time I put gas in it. It starts fine at other times only hard after adding gas. What could be wrong?
View 4 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 F350 - Power Loss / Hard To Hold The Speed?
I drive a new to me 2005 F350, he has a 2001 F350. While we were talking he said he didn't think his pickup had the power it should have. He pulls a 5th wheel camper that weighs around 8000 pounds fully loaded. He said it takes a couple of miles to get to 55 mph, and it is hard to hold the speed. It doesn't have the power it did when he first got it last year. He was told that a diesel is slow getting started. He rode with me in mine, when I dropped it about half throttle to pass a slow car he said he could tell mine had way more power.
His check engine light is not on, it starts good both when hot and when cold. It runs smooth, no miss as far as I can tell listening to it. What are some common issues that could cause this? He did just change the oil and fuel filters, not sure about the air filter. He said the power loss came before he serviced the engine, and did not improve after the fuel filter change. Where to start? He was also told to check the filter inside of his fuel tank, so he is getting ready to drop his tank.
Passat (B6) :: Hard Time Shifting Fast From 1st To 2nd When Accelerating
Was having a hard time shifting fast from 1st to 2nd when accelerating hard, it was like something was blocking the 2nd gear gate, same thing sometimes when downshifing fast from 6th to 5th.
After JT recommending it here, I installed the Neuspeed torque arm insert. Used a scissor jack on the left front side (it has a wide base), got under the car from the front bumper passenger side. 21mm bolt was tight, but got it out with a regular length 1/2 inch socket bar. Insert was hard to get in (even after spraying silicone on it), finally just sprayed silicone into the existing bushing and the insert slipped right in.
First test drive really made it easy to shift from 1st to 2nd under hard acceleration only a slight bump when entering the 2nd gear gate, downshifing was smooth too. Down side? none that I noticed, no vibration.
Passat (B6) :: Hard Time To Start Up After Sitting Overnight
I've been suffering for this issue for quite a while. My passat 06 is experience a hard time to start up after sitting over night. The first attempt in the morning is always shaky. Then, it starts up okay during the day. Even like after driving 5 mins and I can restart it without any problem. But it's the first time of the day that troubles me.
And some history, my battery died completely like 2 months ago, and I replaced it with a Duracell. At first, it has no problem start up at all. But there was one day I forgot to turn of the lights and leaved my car over night.
The next morning, I was able to start it but with some difficulty. Since then, I have been experiencing hard times in starting up. Need to point out the issue? I'm really afraid to have a dead battery in a parking lot 1 hour away from my apartment again ..
Passat (B6) :: Steering Column Lock Defective / Hard Time Getting The Key Out?
Had this warning on information screen? I had this show up, my car wouldn't start and i had a hard time getting the key out. After bringing it to the dealer they claimed they fixed it and now it happened again today... so its back at the dealership
View 2 Replies2000 GMC Jimmy - Loss Of Power / Hard Acceleration
I have a 2000 gmc jimmy 300.000 km 4.3 vortec .starts ok, even when cold idle smooth but when I accelerate past 2000 rpm it has a complete loss of power. I bought a fuel pressure tester key on 2 seconds 60 psi when I start the vehicle and running 55 psi. I took it on a road test it stays at 55 psi and has a hard acceleration and will go to 60 psi ,and then starts to break up my first question is how can I block off the return line to the tank, there's no rubber hose in any of the connections just steel lines and hard plastic with push connectors, is there a plug that you can buy or how I can block off the return to see if the pump will build pressure to 75 psi to 80 psi will this will tell me whether the pressure regulator is faulty or the fuel pump needs to be replaced.
I have a manual its a Haynes for chevy blazer gmc from 95 to 2004 it says with central sequential fuel injections (csefi) key on engine not running it should be approx 55-61 psi the engines running at idle it should decrease through 3 to 10 psi according to this manual i am within range but i have read on other posts that it should be 60-65 would you say that my 55 psi reading is okay? or should it be 60-65? also when i blocked the return line should i get a reading of 75 or higher? if the reading goes up does that mean that the fuel regulator is faulty? and if it doesn't go up does that confirm that the fuel pump is the issue?
Passat (B5) :: 2002 - Code P0322 / Hard Time Starting Then Stalling
Code P0322 Mod10 Ignition/Dist Engine Speed Input Circuit no signal. Car had a hard time starting, then stalling, now it has been fine since the weekend.
View 2 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Power Loss Every Time On Slightest Incline On The Road
I have a 2009 f250 with 70,000 miles on it and for the last 6 months I have been experiencing some power loss. It happens every time there is the slightest incline on the road, it has to down shift to 3rd gear just to maintain that speed. If I don't push on the pedal until it down shifts to 3rd I slow down to 40mph no matter what the speed was before I hit the incline/hill. I also went from 14 mpg to 10.5mpg. I have heard so many theories and am curious if the fact I upgraded to 35 inch tires and never updated the trucks computer.
View 10 RepliesGolf IV R32 :: Fluid Boiling And Loss Of Power In Hard Cornering
Have some issues with my power steering pump. When I purchased the car i discovered it had brown fluid in it. Replaced it with green type and tough the pump had taken no damages from it. Did a track day with slicks (Toyo R888) and got problems with fluid boiling and loss off power in hard cornering.
My first thought was that the pump was damages by the wrong fluid. Before I got around replacing it the pump started making more and more whining sounds while driving on normal road with road tires.
Therefor I replaced the pump but the sound still continues. I changes the belt tensioner as well since the bearing could cause some issues like this as well. But the pump still struggle on normal road usage.
Could the steering rack be damaged with some internal leakage from the wrong fluid on it when purchased? I run DLI engine mounts, I can't see how but would that affect the sound from the pump?
Could there be any bearing on the belt (water pump/ac/alternator?) causing this issue? When running idle the belt runs fine with out any typical shot bearing sound.
Golf IV R32 :: Hard Acceleration In 3rd Gear / Momentary Loss In Power
Having problems where sometimes the car won't go into gear, other times it's fine? The problem started after some hard acceleration in 3rd, there was what felt like a momentary loss in power. I dipped the clutch as I thought a boost pipe had popped off, all was fine (still seeing boost when revved). After this it got progressively harder to get gears, finally resulting in not being able to get into gear at all.
I found I could get it into 1st with the engine off and could go up gears normally, but couldn't change down without stopping and turning the engine off. The clutch is working fine, the biting point is normal. The problem seams to come and go randomly, it will work fine for a while and then start playing up again. When working the gearbox feels normal, there is no grinding or wining noises. I can move between gears normally and do clutch less gear changes.
There is now a vibration which can be felt at 1000rpm when stationary. It feels like it coming from the engine/gearbox and seems like something is out of balance as it shakes the whole car. The car is on 91k, supercharged running 470hp & 370lb/ft (at flywheel) and is fitted with a Spec stage 3+ clutch and solid flywheel.
Passat (B5) :: 1998 - PRND321 Lights Illuminated All The Time And Downshifts Hard Into 1st Gear
I have a 1998 Passat 4cyl turbo. Recently the ICM module on the air box went out when I had No Fire on 2nd cyl from the front. Replaced it with a MPGauto part for $63. It fixed the problem but, I noticed that now the PRND321 lights are luminated all the time and downshifts hard into 1st gear. Also should I be concerned that I need another catalytic converter b/c I drove another 40 miles with it missing and it (CC) was very hot. Do they break down inside? The car runs great. Is my problem related to this china part not having a special VW code or can the car be reset?
View 1 RepliesPassat (B5) :: 2000 Tiptronic Transmission - Hard Time To Start Driving In Cold
I just got a 2000 passat wagon with a 1.8t and tiptronic transmission. The questions is when it is cold the transmission has a hard time to start driving. But as soon as it is warm it drives great. It is throwing a check engine code havent checked it yet.
View 9 RepliesCamry 2012+ :: Severe Power Loss - Need To Push Hard Pedal Down
I've been noticing severe power loss lately . I know the 12 camry i4 has a bit of lag when acceleration but it's a bit worse now . I do have weapon r header , injen intake and magna flow muffler. I've cleaned the intake filter but sometimes the car feels as though it doesn't want to go then it does. I have to push the pedal down hard . I also have res delete.
View 9 RepliesElantra XD (2001-06) :: Sputters While Idling And Power Loss If Try To Accelerate Hard
My 2004 Elantra occasionally won't start. When I hold the ignition on Start, the radio loses power (but the dashboard doesn't) and nothing else happens. Sometimes, tapping the gas pedal will suddenly cause the car to start. Once, I had to stomp the pedal to the floor before it would work.
I just replaced the battery (and positive cable end since it was corroded in place) and recently replaced the spark plugs (which were badly burnt). There is a check engine code for "catalyst underperforming" which seems unrelated.
I suspect my car has fuel delivery problems. It occasionally sputters while idling and often has power loss while driving if I try to accelerate hard. It seems to have trouble shifting into 4th gear from 3rd or 5th, but that may be another issue entirely.
What I should check to diagnose this, or replace to resolve it?
Chrysler - Towncountry :: 2006 - Hard Starts And Loss Of Power On Acceleration
I have a 2006 town and country with a 3.3 and 220,000 miles.
Last week I was having some hard starts and loss of power on acceleration. My check engine light flashed during one episode so I had autozone check the code and it showed a misfire. I changed out my plugs and wires and that solved my issue. It started and ran like new.
Yesterday, I was running errands and my charging light came on. I was about ten miles from home and I decided to go for it. It was night so the headlights were on. Along the way, everything started to dim. Headlights, dash lights, airbag indicator came on and then the van just died. I walked the final mile and we towed it home.
The alternator and battery were both replaced last year in November making them both one year old. AC Delco battery 660 cca and I had a very reputable alternator shop rebuild the alternator.
So before I towed the van home, I hooked up some heavy duty jumper cables from a running chevy venture and let it charge 15 minutes. After the 15 minutes it was just clicks in rapid succession.
I hooked it up to a trickle charger overnight, 12v 2 amp setting. This morning, the van started, idled fine for about five seconds and then started trying to cut out. I kept it running by giving it gas but after about twenty seconds it stalled. I tried to restart and nothing but the rapid clicks. Three more hours on the trickle charger and the same exact thing happened. It started, began to stall, quit and then wouldn't restart.
I noticed today that the power steering reservoir was leaking a decent amount of fluid down onto everything around it including the coil pack. I replaced this today and used brake cleaner to clean all the surrounding components.
After doing some internet sleuthing, I found a thread with the same problem. For this guy, he had a disconnected ground from the negative battery terminal. I chased mine down (G101) disconnected and wire brushed it all clean. Put it all back together and still the same problem.
Here is what I have discovered:
Trying to jump it from another vehicle only results in the clicks. This is true whether the jumper cables on the dead battery are on both terminals or the negative is grounded on the motor. If the battery were the problem, I should be able to jump through it. If the alternator were the problem, I should be able to start with a jump.
After charging the battery, it will start once but then die soon after. Battery with the key off will read just under 12 volts (11.9, 11.6). With the key on, it will drop to the 8's (8.6, etc.) I have not yet had the battery or alternator bench tested. I plan to start with the battery in the morning.
It seems to me that the alternator wasn't charging the battery or it wouldn't have just killed the battery as those accessories should be powered by the alternator. It shouldn't be a starter issue since it will start after being on the trickle charger.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 - Hard To Start - CEL On - Power Loss
1994 Ranger .. Last wednesday I had to get a jump because the lights where left on. Everything was normal on thursday. Friday morning. I went to go start the truck and notice that it would try once to start and then try a second time and it would start. Today I was driving it. The check engine light came on and when I get the RPMs up to shift up, I would loose all power and have to wait till it gets down below 10mph before I would get the power back.
View 8 RepliesPassat (B5) :: Third Brake Light On All The Time When Lights Are On?
My B5 has all three brake lights coming on (including top highline brake light in estate model) when the headlights are turned on. When the brake is pressed, they all stay on and glow a bit brighter.. Is this normal?
When the headlights are not turned on, the brakes work ok with all three rear red lights only coming on when the brake pedal is pressed.