Camry :: 2004 - Ticking Sound After A Coolant Flush

Here is the thing, this did not start until after I got a coolant flush, and went to get some gas. I was thinking dirty fuel injectors, so I put the Lucas Fuel Injector cleaner in with the next full tank of gas, and it didn't do anything.

There is a ticking sound, and the car sounds like a freight train chugging. The car still runs and still has great performance than ever before (due to the new plugs)

Here is what I have done:

Ran motor flush
Changed oil + Lucas Oil Additive
Changed all 4 Spark Plugs (replaced crappy Autolite with NGK Platinum)
Changed Power Steering Fluid (flushed)
Changed Coolant (flushed)
Cleaned the throttle body and intake
Drained through and filled up gas again + Lucas Fuel Stuff

You can't really hear it from inside the car, and it only seems to be happening after the car has been warmed up. It does not happen during a cold start at all (in the mornings).

The ticking sound stopped for a bit when I ran the motor flush, and changed the oil. Now the sound is still there, but it is A LOT less annoying than before. The car also has A LOT better performance with the new plugs, I seem to be able to take off a lot better at lights.

Here is what I still need to do:

Change the engine air filter.
Double check the throttle body and intake.

It is a 2004 Camry with 182,000 Miles. The ticking didn't start until after it came back from the shop, which has me suspicious. Shop claims nothing is wrong, which is a load of BS.

What I am thinking:

Stuck valve
Lifters
STILL dirty intake (shop could have done nothing and charged me for it)

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Coolant Flush With Thermostat And Coolant Filter Install

This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.

Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.

This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.

I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.

The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.

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Ford Excursion :: Coolant Leak Developed After Flush

I did a coolant flush following the instructions posted on this site. In fact I did a little more than just a flush - replaced degas bottle cap, replaced thermostat and installed a coolant filtration system.

There were no leaks before I started and the only reason I did the flush was that there was green antifreeze in it.

I noticed that there was half a gallon of coolant under it in the parking lot this afternoon - the degas bottle still has coolant in it, so I drove it home and inspected the thermostat housing and top radiator hose, as well as all fittings and hoses installed as part of the coolant filter. Everything was dry.

I tracked the leak to the lower radiator hose - the one thing I did not touch as I drained from the petcock. Coolant is running down the lower radiator hose.

Could the new radiator cap have increased the pressure in the system to a point where it identified a weak point that was not leaking before?

My temps are great, ECT is stable about 188F - 190F and EOT is stable around 192F - 194F. I ran it hard and got temps up to around 200F and they both came back down to 192F range very quickly when I backed off. They were actually running about 5F higher before the flush.

I will try running the old cap to see if there is a difference, but if the lower hose is the weak point I'd prefer to replace that and run the new OEM cap.

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My 02 Explorer with the 4.6 has about 100k on her and I think it is time to change the coolant. ( I have only had it since 87k )

Should I flush it or just change it. What is the best way ?

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After changing the timing belt and water pump I want to change the coolant. Stupid to have no temp gauge so I got a scan tool connected. Been idling 20 minutes and it hasn't gone above 189 degrees. Assume it has a 195 degree thermostat. I put fresh water in the radiator but still don't see it mixing with coolant in the block as if the thermostat has opened.

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Truck has never been flushed. Would you try and back flush through oil cooler or just do a regular flush according to the procedure in the tech folder?

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I just had my oil cooler and EGR cooler replaced, and I'm now consider doing a coolant flush with Restore/Restore+ to ensure the coolant system is clean. I know this might be backwards and perhaps should have done the flush first, but schedule and such did not allow. I do have a coolant filter.

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Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Coolant Flush - Additives Required After Filling?

I'm planning on doing the regular scheduled coolant flush but not sure if it can be done without any special equipment.

One dealer said they don't do many diesels but have a machine to do the refill and quoted ~200$. The other does more diesels but hasn't done a flush in a while and quoted ~500$ and said he does it old school by draining everything out and then water flush followed by refilling the systems.

Which one is right? Can it be done in the driveway? Which is the correct coolant for the refill and are any additives required after filling?

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: E350 - Fresh Coolant Flush Now Seals Leaking

So a dead thermostat forced me to drain the coolant in my E350 7.3L. I noticed the previous owner had green coolant in the van so I decided to do a flush and put in the right coolant. I used Shell Rotella ELC. Well, I noticed after coming home the other day that the van was leaking coolant, upon inspection I noticed its now leaking from the water pump, then today the drain valve sprang a leak! What the HECK is going on!? Is it possible that the seals were shocked when I changed the coolant? Not looking forward to doing a water pump replacement on an E350... sure is crammed under the hood.

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Had my 06' into the dealer and the SA asks me if I want the TB and Power Steering Flushed. He knows me and I could tell he wasn't convinced it was worth it. Don't know how to flush the Power Steering Fluid. I've done the turkey baster method on my 330 but never the full flush. What PS fluid should I use?

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Passat (B5) :: 2004 - Coolant Reservoir Overflowing

I own a Passat 2004 V6 Wagon ATQ and I noted that the coolant reservoir was low on coolant almost empty but i did not notice any overheating issue. I took the car to the shop and the Cooling system was pressure tested no leaks no problem then after a week I found that after a 20 minutes drive I pull into a parking lot and coolant was dripping from the reservoir my a/c fan works and the fan clutch spins slow and I'm able to stop it with my hand. I just replaced the clutch fan last but the problem still present.

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I have a 2004 passat 1.8t which currently blows heavy white smoke from the tailpipe; coolant in oil and vise versa; when I open the oil fill cap / dipstick white smoke blows from there also. At first I thought it was the head gasket so I replaced it and resurfaced the head. What i noticed was burned oil on the sides inside the head. After putting everything together the smoke never quit blowing and after couple of hours the fluids mixed again. After reading the forums I took off the oil cooler and tested it by submerging it under water and hooking compressed air to the water lines -- no bubbles came out of the sides. Maybe I tested it wrong while the it is the oil cooler all along? Could it be cracked head? block?

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 E350 - Bypass Coolant Filter Or IPR Full Flow Coolant Filter

I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"

Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.

I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.

I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.

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i have a 2010 Prius IV with 56810 miles, should i do a transmission flush ? and how many qt go back into the unit ?

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My 2006 has 108,000 miles. An independent shop said one can not flush the transmission as you can not put torque on the wheels. A dealer says they have a machine to do it. Who is right? Can one flush and fill the transmission?

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Looking for any good videos of flushing the transmission out of an 1997 F150. I'm having a hard time locating the input and output lines to the radiator. I don't know which it is top or bottom one...

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I have Toyota camry 2003 v6 and power steering needs to be flushed. How to flush the power steering.

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