Montana :: 1999 - Power Sliding Door Opening And Closing
It's a '99 Montana EWB.
OK, I know I have an issue with clean water entering the cabin and depositing itself in the channel next to the driver's side rocker where a fair number of wires are located. It filled with water last fall and I dried it out and never thought too much more about it, but knew there was water coming in somewhere. At first I thought it was the AC, but the drain is clear and running.
It's similar to the damned TSB Bulletin No.: 01-08-45-005E that is a sticky here on the forum.
This time however, I didn't check for water in the fall and this morning in a blinding snow storm at 14F the power sliding door acted up 5 minutes before my wife left for work. By the time she got to work the damned TCS and ABS idiot lights came on, and she says the sliding door attempted to open, but she got it to close.
Now the van is 20 miles away and I won't be able to look at it until I can get it home and try to dry it out again. In the driveway in a snow storm!!!
If GM had been a little more specific about the root cause of water issues mentioned in the TSB, it would make life and fixing this problem that much easier.
Golf/GTI VI :: 2010 - Disable Alarm Honk When Locking The Doors
Is there any way to disable the alarm honk when locking the doors (2010 GTI)? The sound is obnoxious and I cannot stand it anymore. I took it to the dealer for my 90 day check-up and they said they cannot do it with this model.
I'm pretty sure it can be done with the VAG-COM........ but I don't have one. Is there a way to just unplug the unit that produces the noise.
Volkswagen - Tiguan :: 2013 - Doors Lock After Few Yards Of Driving - How To Disable
I just picked up a 2013 Tiguan 4motion. The doors lock after a few yards of driving. Can I disable this 'feature'? I've had other German cars do this but it was always easy to find in the user manual how to override the default.
View 1 RepliesCamry :: Disable Remote Start Feature - Car Cuts Off When Unlock Doors?
How to shut off the feature that cuts car off when you unlock doors after using your remote start?
View 14 RepliesLexus RX 2010-15 :: Disable Unlocking All Doors When Opening Rear Hatch From Outside On 2014 RX350
Can I disable unlocking of all the doors when I open the rear hatch from the outside? I figured out that if I use my fob, the doors does not unlock.
View 4 RepliesMontana :: 2007 SV6 - Little Or No Heat When Idling At 700 RPM
2007 Montana SV6 3.9. I have lots of heat when vehicle is reving 1500 -2000rpm. when idling at 700 little or no heat. recent flush, thermostat, and serpentine belt. I'm thinking, if it was the water pump not circulating enough water the car should be over heating. heat guage remains on the half mark.
View 4 RepliesLexus LS 2007+ :: Car Slipping And Sliding Without Snow Tires
I live in an area where we don't really get any snow, very rare. But when it does, everything shuts down because our city doesn't have the proper equipment (salt, plow trucks, etc.)no one here owns snow tires, and we're all inexperienced. It snowed today around the same time as the drive back home and it took forever because it was rush hour at 5:00 pm (Fairly populated city, around 440,000 people).
Needless to say almost everyone was going super slow, 20-25 mph. Couple of people in SUVs were going fairly fast, but generally everyone was being safe. I saw a couple of accidents but nothing too crazy. I had never driven in the snow before in my LS460L. WOW. that was a stressful and long drive back. What normally takes me 30 minutes to get home took me close to 2 hours. While everyone was going very slow, I went EVEN SLOWER because of how nervous I was.
I felt like I never accelerated too fast or aggressively, and I did slow controlled braking (did not slam my brakes abruptly or anything). Yet every other time where I had to come to a complete stop, the rear part of my car would lose control and slide/slip to one side or another. Again, I felt like I was driving cautiously slow (between 10-20 mph) and did nice and slow controlled brakes. But I seemed to be the only one on the road slipping and sliding when at a stop.
The conditions were pretty snowy, but by no means was it crazy (maybe an inch or two of snow). Something that would be laughable to those who are used to real snow . That was a really scary and long drive. I am glad to be home. and I don't plan on driving my car out in the snow anytime soon.
Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Doors Will Not Lock With Power Button - AC Turns On By Itself At Random Times
I have a 2007 SF SE that seems to be having multiple electrical problems. In summary, the following are happening irregularly:
1) rear passenger door will not lock with the power lock button
2) front driver door will not lock with the power lock button
3) A/C turns on by itself at random times
4) Power gas latch release will not work
As I said before, these problems happen randomly and all the things listed above will work on occasions. I have not taken any steps to troubleshoot other than looked at the relays in the engine bay which seemed to be fine.
I know that some other posts mentioned the lock actuators for the lock problems. However, I think there might be an electrical problem since all the problems seem to be related. The car is not under warranty anymore.
Honda - Odyssey :: 2007 - Sliding Side Door Popping
We have had this problem for about two years now. We finally took the car to the dealership and they, without being able to duplicate it, recommended to change the sliding door roller for the price tag of $375. We did and it did not fix the problem. We took it back few times and the popping noise did not take place while there and left the dealership without a solution. We finally took it back today armed with a video on my iPhone displaying the problem (popping audio included). We left it with them and lo and behold they said that they were now able to duplicate the problem and they are able to fix it by replacing not two but three latches.
View 3 RepliesHonda - Odyssey :: 2007 - Sliding Door Skipping Intermittently
2007 Honda Odyssey with power sliding rear doors. One door (pass side) skips when closing, but only when the van is pointing down hit. Seems to work ok when van is level or pointing uphill. Skipping - the door starts closing, stutters, keeps going, 2-3 times. Usually the door closes, but sometimes it stops and reopens. Is this the motor or some other part/problem?
View 2 RepliesToyota - Sienna :: 2007 - Passenger Side Sliding Door Will Not Slide On Its Own
I have a 2007 Toyota Sienna and the passenger sliding door will not slide on its own. You have to tug on the door to get it to engage. The repair shop said the door needs a new actuator. How hard is replacing the actuator on sliding passenger door?? My brother thinks he might be able to do it???
View 6 RepliesFord - Doors - Transmissions :: Power Doors To Automatically Unlock When Shift Into Park?
I recently purchased a 2006 Ford F-150 XLT and don't know very much about it, nor Fords in general. I was just wondering if there is any way to have the power doors unlock automatically when I shift into Park or turn the ignition off? It has the option to have the doors automatically lock once I reach 5-10 mph, but I can't find any information about programming it to unlock automatically. It doesn't have the programmable computer display, so everything requires pressing a bunch of buttons when the key is turned on accessory and things like that. I have kids who are always in the back seats, and it gets annoying trying to get them out of the truck when it's off and I forget to manually unlock them.
View 6 RepliesHonda - Odyssey :: 2007 - Driver Side Sliding Door Remains 85 % Closed
A couple of weeks ago our 2007 Odyssey started having door issues - driver's side sliding door would get about 85% closed (approx 6 inches from closed) then beep and reverse back open. Wife took it to the dealership and they said the rollers were dead and it would be $400 to repair them. Suggested we wait till it got bad. A week later on the cape, it got bad -- doors were getting really stuck, even in manual.
I replaced the roller assy on the door (the rollers were GONE!) and it now operates manually just fine now. I'm left with the following issues:- Door still won't close during automatic operation. Gets 80% closed then beeps and reverses closed.- Door doesn't open automatically during operation from the key FOB or the driver's control panel on the console. (I hear an actuator running when I press the buttons, just no obvious release). The door auto-opens fine from all other modes (inside lever, outside handle).
I've tried multiple "door reset" routines to no avail -- not sure if I have the correct "routine" for my '07 EX, or if something else is in play.
Windstar :: Power Sliding Door Adjustment
I can not find details on adjusting the stops/sliders/ apparatus in this power sliding door mechanisms in the Haynes manual.
How to re-align or adjust these things? mine is not latching properly at the rear securing point 100% of the time.
Montana :: Power Windows Switch Defective On The Up Position
I have a Pontiac Montana 1999 with power window problem. After troubleshooting I found that the switch was defective on the up position. I was told that this problem is common on this type of car.
View 8 RepliesPontiac - Montana :: 2001 - Engine Drops In Power When Hit 30 Mph
I have a 2001 Pontiac Montana van, when i drive i feel like there is just not enough power there. Most of the time when i hit 30mph the engine drops in power, hard to explain so I will try my best. I get in turn the key starts right up with out any hesitation what's so ever! I leave for work, while driving when I come to a stop sign and stop and take off its gets sluggish so while my speedometer is going up my movement is not changing as it should so needless to say I have to do 80 85 mph just to keep up with the average moving can at 70mph.
Once in a while I will give it some gas and let go of it and it would back fire a little not sure why. Recently I had new head gaskets put on cause temperature was not staying where it was suppose to be, they smooth out the headers and did a tune up, not sure about the timing, New fluids, once in awhile the temp would climb but that cause of the fans. Took it to AutoZone they did a obd code check came back with O2 senser and nothing else, so if I replace this will it bring my van back to normal running operation? And would it be anything I could check to rule out?
Venture :: 2000 Power Sliding Door Stopped Working
Long story short it stopped working. I have tried the reset method with no luck and I can't seem to get it to give me the codes per the factory service manual. This is what I do know when you release the door it unlatches but won't open, I can hear the motor trying to run but it won't pull the door open and it sounds like it immediately reverses but the door does not move.
View 14 RepliesMontana :: 2006 SV6 AWD - Diagnosing Intermittent Hesitation / Power Loss
Alright, my '06 SV6 AWD has a major problem...I'm about to blow it up! But seriously, I've had an issue for a few weeks now with intermittent acceleration/hesitation problems. Basically it started as a rare occurrence and is happening more often now. Yesterday, it did it consistently for 20 minutes on one trip around town. 1 hour later, it didn't happen noticeably at all on the way home. It happens while accelerating, usually from a stop, but also sometimes when cruising at highway speeds.
The car does not stall or stumble. Everything sounds fine and smooth, but when accelerating from a stop, the car will stop accelerating and the speed slowly drops off. Pushing the accelerator down further to the floor does nothing for several seconds, then the power returns and the car responds to whatever position the pedal is in. If you haven't pushed further it continues accelerating where you left off. If you've got it to the floor, it takes off quickly. When cruising at speed, you don't notice anything until you start slowing down, and the pedal reacts the same way. NOTE: The engine does not rev up when this is happening. It's not like the tranny is slipping.
It really seems like a fuel delivery problem and not transmission. It has all the normal symptoms of a failing pump. And about 2 months ago, I had the fuse for the fuel pump melt (not blow). These problems didn't happen immediately after, but they did happen a few weeks after that.
That said, I have noticed that when cruising I occasionally hear a light clunking noise that sounds like the rear diff engaging. I assume this is just due to play in the drive train. I also had to recently do the expensive versatrack fluid flush and fill to get rid of the diff groan. But I still feel like it's probably fuel related because the engine doesn't rev up.
Here's what I've done so far:
1. Checked the wires at the problematic C305 connector. I already had to completely redo that connector several years ago as the PO had removed the connector and directly twisted all wires together covered the with tape, and filled hole with silicon. BTW, GM does sell all of those harnesses with length of wire, connectors, and heat shrink covers for reasonable $$. Anyway, found 2 wires with insulation slightly shaved off. Neither was for the fuel pump, everything else still looked good.
2. Checked voltage at the gray fuel pump wire just after the new harness (about a foot before the fuel pump). And checked the ground at the same location. Haven't checked at pump connector because I don't want to drop tank just yet. Both were fine with almost no resistance on power between that location back to the fuse box. So, it doesn't look like a bad or shorted wire unless it is in that short length up to the fuel pump that I cannot access w/o dropping the tank.
3. Checked fuel pressure at the fuel rail. The pressure when primed and idling is a consistent 60-62 psi. I know the manual states 60psi as the max. Maybe this has something to do with it?? Perhaps my cheap actron pressure guage is a bit off or perhaps the pressure regulator is bad. Could this cause the issue.
4. Checked for DTC's with code reader. No active or pending codes.
The other things I think could be the cause based on internet research:
1. Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor
2. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
3. PCM
4. O2 sensor
The problem is that all of those things tend to set a DTC from what I've read. I still think the fuel pump us going bad and the pressure was fine because the problem is intermittent. I just don't want to spend the $$ on a new pump to find out it was something else.
Tomorrow, I will have access to a scanner that can log 10 seconds of data from the computers while driving. I think that might shed some light if I can get the problem to happen when recording. I'm not familiar with fuel trims and the lot.
Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Rust Under Rear Sliding Window
Truck is a 2011. What about fixing?
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