Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Losing Coolant - Burning Quart Of Oil Every 3000 Miles?
I have a 1997 f 150 4.6l, 145k miles, it seems that very slowly it is loosing coolant but i haven't noticed any leaks, it also burn about a quart of oil every 3000 miles but i was told that was normal?
View 6 RepliesPrius (Gen 2) :: Replacing Rear Wheel Bearing / Hub?
I thought I'd share, my rear wheel hub was very bad, wheel wobble when shook about a width of a quarter (found by the tire shop during tire purchase).
Shops were charging $450-$600 to do the work, however the part by itself is a bearing / hub combo, no need to separate the two, the dealer price for the part is around $250 and the OEM grade from Autozone was $90.
I didn't want to fork out that much money to do the work that looked simple, I was just concerned about the hammering to get the hub off the car.
Geo - Metro :: 1994 - Massive Oil Burning Under Load But Barely Any At Slow Speeds
I recently got my hands on a 1994 Geo Metro 1.0L 3 cylinder. Actually I got TWO of them. One had a bad engine (burned valves) but was otherwise a good car while the other was junk (expect for the engine) and I am amazed the suspension didn't separate from the body due to the rust. So, I decided to swap the engine from the junk car to the good car. I replaced all seals and gaskets external to the engine plus the PCV valve and gave everything else a good cleaning. The only seals and gaskets not replaced were the intake gasket, head gasket, and exhaust gasket as the engine was swapped in a complete manner. I also did the timing belt and water pump while I was in that far as well as did the plugs/wires/cap/rotor when putting it back in. I also ran an oil change through of cheap oil and some Seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil to clean out any sludge as it looks like oil hadn't been changed real well in this engine. This oil came out pretty dirty after like 30 minutes of idling.
This little car runs amazing overall and keeps up with traffic and is way more peppy than I would ever imagine! It is also getting somewhere between 50-55 MPG and is fun to drive kinda like a big go kart. There is ONE MAJOR issue! If I get on a highway and try to maintain speeds of 65MPH or faster on big hills, I am guaranteed to get massive smoke clouds from the valve cover area filling with oil and puking it through the PCV/breather assembly right into the intake. I tried more oil changes with synthetic oil and this kept happening. I also ran Seafoam and MMO through the oil and drove it like 30 miles before the change. The oil came out really black each time. I can now actually see bare metal on the inside of the valve cover area through the oil fill where before it was all black after all these oil changes. I also replaced the PCV once again for good measure as it was like a $6 part.
I drove about 100 miles on the highway and started getting massive smoke screens every time I got a long uphill grade and tried to maintain speed, especially if I stayed in 5th gear. The car had more than enough power to make it up the hill in 5th but would smoke under the load. This began to make me suspect I had a serious blowby problem. I had a quart of oil in the car and added all of this during a couple stops on the way. I was at or slightly below the low mark when I decided to head home so I found a parts store and purchased a quart of the cheapest store brand 10W40 oil I could find and used this to get home. It still smokes quite a bit but maybe not like on the way there. I also had the wind at my back so I figured part of this was load dependent.
I was at or just below the fill mark on the dipstick when I got home so I added some more 10W40 oil I had sitting around for an ATV I no longer own. I know this is formulated for motorcycles and ATVs but figured I wouldn't hurt the engine any more. I also added some auto trans fluid as I know some people say the detergents in this can free stuck rings and work wonders in a neglected engine. Again, how can I do more damage to this engine than has already been done? The car calls for 5W30.
I have pretty much resigned myself to the fact that this little engine had 170K of not the best maintenance and is due for a rebuild. My plans are to keep driving the car while rebuilding the other engine with bad valves. I am glad I kept the old engine around. The car seems to be doing a lot better on the mix of thicker oil and ATF but wonder how long it can go like this. I took it out on the highway and really pushed it hard to see if I could make it blow smoke and it would not. It MAY have consumed some oil on the dipstick but I am even not sure about this. I am not adding any until I can see a definite drop in the level.
Here is my next question. What is likely the solution I found? Thicker oil sealing worn rings better? ATF dissolving crud around stuck rings? When/if I change the oil before I get to the rebuild, what weight should I use? 5W40 maybe? Also, these engines are notorious for burning valves if a thicker oil is used as the hydraulic lifters don't allow them to close completely.
Lexus GS 2006-11 :: Burning Oil About 1 Quart Every 1k Miles Average After 80k Miles
My 2006 GS300 has oil burning issue after 80k miles now my odo is at 110k miles. I have changed my oil every 5000 miles, keep burning about 1 quart every 1k miles average. Literally burnt about 20 quarts of an oil with premium fuel. At 105k miles, I had replaced my bank 2 sensor 2 after the check engine light and vsc light came on, reset the code those lights came right back on.
Check the code again, found out bad cat converter between passenger side sensors. The recalls has been done at 65k miles at dealer. My questions are :
-What would be the cause of burning that much of an oil? No leaking on floor or bad smell.
-Is burnt oil causing the failure of cat converter?
-If I replace the cat, will it go bad again?
Lexus ES 2013+ :: ES350 Rumble In Rear Wheel Bearing
I'm getting a little rumble in my Lt Rear wheel bearing with just over 50k miles. I'm looking online at parts and the part number for the hub/bearing assy is 4246033030. It's showing up as a Toyota part as well.
Does the same part matches a Camry or Avalon? The Toyota version of the part is about half of the price.
Prius (2010-12) :: Rear Left Wheel Bearing Failure
At 46,400 miles of gentle driving, my left wheel bearing failed on my 2010 Prius, which was not covered by warranty because it is not 'drive train'. I was told there was nothing I did or could have done to cause this. I have had 4 Toyotas, two with over 200,000 miles, and never had this serious a repair (that wasn't my fault!). Am I being unreasonable to think this is unusual? I'm wondering if this car is going to continue to be a problem.
View 19 RepliesPrius (Gen 2) :: Getting Slight Howl At Speed - Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement
Need to replace at least one rear wheel bearing, but still not positive which side. Getting a whump whump whump and slight howl at speed that seems to be worse going around right turns, so will change the drivers side first.
View 3 RepliesPrius (2010-12) :: Rear Passenger Tire Wheel Bearing Noise
My rear passenger tire spins easily and makes noise. Here is the link to video....
View 6 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: Roaring When Driving / Changing Wheel Bearing In The Rear
My wheel bearing in the rear went..as its roaring when driving and shop told me wheel bearing needs replaced. I am a bit handy. Is it a big job to change a rear wheel bearing on a 2002 ford escape 3 litre. What tools would I need...don't need a press for wheel bearing on this model, not sure....
View 1 RepliesSanta Fe (DM - 2013+) :: Wheel Bearing Type Noise Coming From Rear And Gets Louder As Go Faster
I just bought a used hyundai santa fe sport 2.0t. i noticed it is fairly loud inside compared to my 2011 sonata. I don't know if im hearing tire noise or maybe a wheel bearing type noise. It's coming from the rear and gets louder as I go faster. I'll admit O am paranoid and probably making this sound worse than it is.
View 12 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Rear Wheel Bearing Making Noise
Have a rear wheel bearing making some noise. A friend told me that it is always the outer bearing that goes first . Can you replace the bearing without replacing the race?
View 14 RepliesSanta Fe (DM - 2013+) :: Burning Rubber Smell Coming Out Of Right Rear Wheel Well
Today I noticed a strong burning rubber or plastic smell coming out of the right rear wheel well. All other wheel wells did not have this odour.
We had a bout of freezing temp's here recently and some snow, I'm wondering if the brake on that wheel may have seized slightly through the all wheel drives tourque vectoring or through parking brake use.
I'm going to drive it to the dealership tomorrow without making an appointment in hopes they will look at it right away as making an appointment this time of year is probably going to take forever.
Something I might be missing or can do?
Ford Excursion :: Burning Smell From Rear Driver Side Wheel
After smelling burning for a few days randomly, I've narrowed it down to the rear driver side wheel. After about on the highway, I stopped, and it is HOT! I pulled the wheel but the hub spins easily 1/16th of a turn or so, as it's in park, so the brakes are not dragging. What else this could be? Or are they dragging at random? The rotor is perfect, no rust and no groves, so hte pads are doing their job. 1/16th of a turn is way exaderation, but it can move. Also there's no sounds at all.
View 13 RepliesLexus RX 2004-09 :: RX330 Rear Wheel Bearing Type Noise Gets Louder With Increasing Speed
I have a rear wheel bearing type of noise that appears to come from the rear. My vehicle is front wheel drive and has 135K miles.
I checked the rear wheel bearing/hub assys on both sides and they had no play but I changed them anyway. Noise did not change at all. Rear tires have normal wear, no cupping or anything. Noise gets louder with increasing speed up to a point and then remains a constant level.
My next thought is to check the front wheel bearings/cv joints.
Mazda - Mazda3 :: 2008 - Burning Smell Intermittently From Left Rear Wheel?
A few months ago I bought a used 2008 Mazda3s sedan, and ever since I get an intermittent burning rubber smell from my rear left wheel. I recently got new tires, brake pads, and had the rotors turned, with no change.
The smell does not always happen, it will be there maybe one out of 3 or 4 times, and it is more likely to happen after long drives (e.g., one hour highway driving).
The wheel well also feels very hot. The obvious answer would be that the brake caliper is sticking, causing friction, heat, and the burning smell. However, if I touch the rotor it feels the same lukewarm temperature as the other three.
One additional thought is that this is caused by the exhaust, which is right next to this wheel well. I have noticed that the area of the floor of the trunk right above the exhaust gets very hot, which I had not seen in any other car I owned.
Could it be that the exhaust is causing the rubber of the tire (or something else) to overheat and smell bad? Visually, it does not look like the tire has a different wear or different appearance, compared to any other one.
This may or may not be related: my handbrake seems to be useless If I leave it on I can easily drive with little to no noticeable slowdown... I guess the previous owner did not read the part of the manual where it says you have to release the handbrake before you drive.
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Rear Wheel Seal And Bearing Part Number Check
Replacing the backing plates on my rear end, figure get new inner bearings and seals in there. Bearings seem fine but cheap insurance, dont wanna pull it all off again.
When i pulled my hub off, the hub seal stayed on the housing shaft, this is normal? Just gotta pry it off there somehow?
Then new seal-TIMKEN 370247A just tap it into the back of the hub? Also is this the right inner bearings? TIMKEN NP114036
Golf V R32 :: Service Now Light On At 3000 Miles?
The service light for the oil change came on this weekend. The car only has 2996 miles on it. The manual calls for the oil change at 5000 miles. My Touareg doesn't do this. Is this tied in to how you drive or is something wrong?
View 6 RepliesSonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Oil Is Black On Dipstick In 2000 To 3000 Miles
Oil in my 2012 Sonata 2.4L is black on the dip stick in 2000 to 3000 miles. Dealer says normal for this car, I don't believe it. What do others see? Also only gets about 32 mpg on highway and has black deposits on the tailpipe. I have gotten better than rated mileage on every other car I have owned so I don't believe it is my driving technique.
View 19 RepliesToyota - Camry :: Oil Light Is On When Hit To 3000 Miles On Hard Brake Stop
My cousin got a 2007 Toyota Camry. Every time we did a oil change put 5 qt Synthetic ow-20, once he hit to 3000 mile on hard brake stop, the oil light is on, we check that has low oil level and oil change. came out 2 half qt oil.
View 11 Replies