Ford - Ranger :: 1994 V6 - Clicking Noises When Hauling A Load At Highway Speeds
My 94 ranger 4.0 v-6 makes clicking noises when hauling a load at highway speeds. How do i correct this?
View 4 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 F350 Burning Massive Amounts Of Oil
I'm new to diesels and I've got a 2002 F-350 w/7.3L 224K miles. I've had it for about a year and had no problems. Burned a little oil, about a quart every 1000 miles or so, but in the last two weeks it's gone through the roof. I have gone through roughly 12 quarts in 300 miles. I see a lot of blue smoke at start up, and it's being harder and harder to start in the cold. From what I've read it could be several different things, and I plan on doing the CCV delete and changing the orings on the injectors just for good measure. Is there anything else that I might check as well, or am I completely off base on what it might be?
View 14 RepliesMetro :: 93 - Rear Wheel Bearing Keeps Burning About Every 3000 Miles
About every 3000 miles my 93 xfi keeps roasting the back pass. side wheel bearing. It will start to howl so load you can't hear the radio over it.
When I changed the rear brakes I took off the spindle nut and I swear I messed the threads up or something causing this problem. I have torqued it to 129lbs like the manual says and it still does it.
Maybe I'm not packing the bearings well enough, or using wrong kind??
Geo - Metro :: 1994 - Clutch Slipping Under 4 And 5 Gear
I have a 1994 Geo Metro that I picked up a little over a year ago. I had to swap engines and replaced the clutch at the same time. This included a turned flywheel and new pressure plate. I also replaced all seals and gaskets except for the distributor O-ring and the head gasket. This included the crank and cam seals on the front and rear of the engine as well as the seal housing gaskets/oil pump gasket. I drove it for several months and then the distributor O-ring began to leak oil profusely which is a common problem with these cars. The distributor is keyed directly into the camshaft on the rear side of the engine so it sits sideways directly above the transmission/engine interface. Some of the leaking oil went right down into the clutch area. Being that adding a cup of synthetic oil every day was still cheaper than driving one of my pickups, I just kept driving the car until the new O-ring arrived and added oil. Once the O-ring was replaced, the oil leak stopped.
I had a couple episodes of clutch slipping not long after the leak was fixed and then everything seemed fine. I figured that some oil got down there and wore off after the clutch stopped slipping. The car drove fine for about a year until I began noticing the clutch slipping under load in 4th and 5th gear. I had some suspicions of this for a week or so before it became more obvious that the clutch was most definitely slipping. I have a new clutch kit and a spare flywheel that I plan to have machined in the next few days. I have been driving it a couple weeks around town and just babying it so the clutch won't slip.
I was also told by some that I should intentionally burn the clutch some to remove any glaze build up on the clutch disc or flywheel/pressure plate surfaces. They told me to put the parking brake on or put the front bumper up against a tree and burn the clutch. I originally figured this was a bad idea but decided to try it yesterday, figuring I had little to lose. I did it just until I began to see smoke and smell it and then stopped. I let everything cool off for an hour and then took the car for a drive. The clutch was no longer slipping at all so I am wondering if this fixed the problem for now or simply delayed the issue for a short while. I am sure I took some life off the clutch by doing this but....
Geo - Metro :: 1994 XFI - Fuel Gauge Not Working / Stays On Empty
My fuel guage stopped working, it just stays on empty, no sign of moving when the ignition is turned on and off. What the voltages should be or have a good system for problem solving this to locate where the problem is.
View 4 RepliesChevrolet - Metro :: Automatic Transmission - Engine RPMs Running High At Highway Speeds
I have a 2001 chevy metro 4 cyl. with 13 inch wheels and automatic transmission. The engine rpm's are running high at highway speeds. Would a larger diameter wheel support this situation?
View 8 RepliesFord Transmission :: 1994 - Barely Engage - Grinding Noise In Park And Neutral?
I have a 1994 F-150 extended cab electronically activated 4x4, with the 302 V8 and an e4od transmission.
When the truck is running and it is in park or neutral it makes a grinding/whining noise and when it is in gear it doesn't engage, or occasionally will barely engage, but only enough to move it a little ways.
I've read a couple of post that suggested bad connections to the transmission could cause the transfer case to be in neutral which could cause a similar problem to this. I checked all the connection the best I could and the only thing I found that gave me any concern was one of the wires connected to the transfer case shift motor had some of the insulation melted or rubbed of and the wire was a bit corroded.
Is there any chance that this could be causing my overall problem with the truck not driving? Or what might be going on with it? Or any way I might be able to fix it without having to hand over a significant chunk of change for the full rebuild.
Accord :: 98 / 2.3L - Erratic Idle Speeds / Engine Can Barely Stay Running When Warm Up
98 Honda Accord with 2.3L has 354,000 miles on it and up until recently ran like it was still new. Have developed erratic idle speeds. When it is cold it idles around 1100-1200 rpm. When the radiator fans are on or the A/C compressor is on it runs around 800-900 rpm. These are normal speeds and great. However, when the engine is warm/hot, in PARK, radiator fans are off, and A/C compressor kicks off, the idle speed drops to what appears to be about a rough idling 500 rpm's and the engine can barely stay running. I've attempted to look for the obvious. I own the Honda Shop Service manual if there is a particular component or most likely suspect area I should start at.
View 6 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F250 - Lack Of Power / Truck Will Barely Move And Takes Long Time To Accelerate Under A Load
I have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Burning Oil - Blue Smoke Under Any Load
2005 F250, 6.0, 60K miles, recently (within last 1K miles) had ARP studs, EGR delete and new oil cooler installed. Shortly after (5-6 weeks later) I noticed blue smoke under any load (taking off from red light, backing up) but not at idle or startup. Was using the "Performance" SCT canned tune after the stud install, but had the "65HP Tow" canned tune installed when I first noticed the smoke and now back to stock after noticed the smoke as a precaution. Everything else original except FICM, filters and batteries and use 5w40 Mobil 1 since new.
View 14 RepliesDodge - Intrepid :: 1994 Won't Start Up Randomly - Die Under Load
Last weekend, the car wouldn't start after sitting for a few hours. After about 20 minutes it finally started. It has started and ran fine up until today. Same thing, it was parked for a while and wouldn't start. Then it did start, ran horribly, then died when it was put into gear. Then it started and ran just fine, my friend moved the car, parked it and turned it off and of course it wouldn't start after that.
I've done a lot of work to this car myself, including entire tune up, fuel filter, cam AND crank sensors (notorious problems on these cars), ignition switch, oxygen sensors, several other things in the past year or so. My only hunch is that it might be the auto shut down relay, but I'm not with the car so I can't test that. We had fuel pressure at the test port the first time this happened, so I wasn't really thinking it could be a fuel pump issue, but with over 210,000 miles anything is possible. Also, it sometimes dies when the car comes to a stop with the A/C on...but this doesn't happen very often.
Metro :: 95 Geo Metro Stopped Running
I bought a 95 geo metro it ran for a few days then stop running. i have replaced about everything, new plugs, spark plug wires, sensors carborator etc. it seems like maybe it could be the timing but timing seems on. it wont turn over.
View 2 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 V6 Engine Knock Under Load
I have a '94 Mazda B3000 3.0L V6. The engine finally gave out at 244,000 miles. I had a used motor installed with approx. 110,000 miles on it. I now hear a knocking sound only when the engine is under load (in gear and accelerating). The knocking is not present while revving the engine while in park or neutral. The transmission was rebuilt last year about this time. I have described this problem to several respected mechanics and they don't know what it could be. What could cause this condition?
View 12 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Rattling When Going Slow With Load On The Gear
Ok so lately I noticed a horrific rattling coming from the rear of my car. It happens mostly when I'm in a high gear going slow with a load on the gear. It's sort of like the rattle that comes from the exhaust with the same gear load but it's much looser and rattley sounding, and it doesn't always do it. It almost sounds like a piece of sheet metal in my spare tire well rattling when there's a gear load and the exhaust rattles. But I checked in there and it seems tight.
View 5 RepliesNissan - Altima :: 1994 Jerk Whilst Driving Not Specifically Under Load
I have an automatic 1994 Nissan Bluebird which I think is equivalent to the Nissan Altima in the US.
My car seems to jerk whilst driving, not specifically under load. Sometimes when I'm in park with my foot on the brake, it feels like its very subtly jerking on the spot. It is a sporadic condition, sometimes my car won't jerk at all (or very few times) on the way to work, and other days it will jerk a lot. On the whole it seems to be getting worse though. When switching between gears when stopped it changes quite roughly (but not violently). Turning on the AC makes the condition worse. It has stalled once in reverse, and sometimes feels like it will stall again when I'm slowing down.
When it does jerk I can hear a noise that sounds faintly like a can of coke being opened (quick sharp pressure release), and it seems like something (possibly a belt) is losing traction/slipping and quickly regaining its grip. My first suspicion was the drive belt or one of the other belts slipping or something like that. Other possibilities I suspect are, from looking through the Hayne's manual:
-Something to do with the transmission (I checked the transmission fluid and it seems fine, very light brown but mostly transparent)
-Fuel filter clogged or fuel line problems (1.5 years ago the car wouldn't start, and a mechanic had to manually inject fuel through the injection nozzles. The fuel was near empty however)
-Spark plugs gap wrong or damaged
-Distributor components damaged (the distributor and alternator were changed last year and swapped in with 2nd hand parts, also the mechanic was very shifty and I think he hacked it into my car without too much care for good wiring, fittings, etc).
Also, I took the car to a mechanic last week and he thought it was the spark plugs, but I think the problem may be more serious than that. He also wanted to flush the transmission fluid but I think I will give this a miss since I checked the fluid and it seems fine, plus I heard flushing the fluid in an old car may have negative effects.
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Slow Shifting Into Reverse / Shudder Under Load
I have a 03 f150 2wd with the 4.6l. Recently it has been slow shifting into reverse(about 2 full seconds) and when it finally gets in reverse it shudders when it comes under load. The fluid is full and not burnt...
View 1 RepliesSanta FE SM (2001-06) :: Slow Start And Burning Rubber Smell
Vehicle:
01 Santa Fe LX 2.7 AWD w/112k miles
Symptoms:
- Slow Start (when cranking takes 2 full seconds before it will turn over and you can hear the engine cranking slower, use to turn over right away)
- Very Strong Burning Rubber Smell
History:
Last January it got down to -20 here in Albuquerque and I would have to go to work at that time. About a week later (when it was still getting down to about 0) I was driving home from work when I smelled a slight smell of burning rubber. I thought it was the car in front of me. The next day I had the same thing. It continued for about a month till the temps rose a bit and then went away. I could never find the cause. I then went all spring, summer, and fall without any problems on my Santa Fe.
As the temps begun to drop over the past 6 weeks we started to smell the burning rubber again, at first only when I would start the car till it warmed up. About 2 weeks ago the car started cranking slower and would take longer to turn over and within the past week I can smell the burning rubber smell even when I had the engine at temp. There's not any idiot lights on. The car is running fine except for what was mentioned, gets up to temp and stays there (a little below the middle on the gauge like normal). I pop the hood and looked at the belt, looked good (no cracks). Checked all the fluids and the only thing that's low is the coolant.
Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2009 - Loss Of Power When Engine Is Under Load At Highway Speeds
We have had had our Santa Fe for a year, done 38000 km and love it. The car will start up and drive around town fine but as soon as the engine is under load at highway speeds or driving up a hill it loses all power.
In Automatic when this happens the gear will drop back to third. You can switch it over to manual mode and slowly accelerate back up to around 80-90km/hour with your foot flat to the floor but the rpm don't get above around 2000 to 3000.
If you stop and turn the engine off for a minute or so, when you start again everything will appear to back to normal but after another minute or two the problem will be back. The engine malfunction light comes on and sometime it's flashing but at other times it's constant.
The car's been in at our local Hyundai dealer for a week but at this stage they still can't quite figure out the exact cause of the problem. The code they pulled out suggested it was the exhaust particulate filter (apparently quite an expensive part) so they replaced that but it didn't fix it. They've also replaced the fuel filter and some temperature sensors that are part of the particulate filter apparently but still no joy.
Prius (2004-09) :: Weird Rattling Sound For 30 Seconds During High Load / Low Speeds?
I've noticed, maybe a handful of times in the 5k miles I've owned the car, that the engine will rattle excessively for maybe 30 seconds or so on a drive. This only happens during high load/low speeds and I think after the engine has been off for at least about 10-15 minutes. It doesn't happen on start up, only after the car is warm, but hasn't been using the engine for a bit. I'm thinking this is fuel enrichment (really rough running) because the cat has cooled.
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