Passat (B6) :: 2008 - CEL Came On Then Went Away - Acceleration Is Sluggish

Well, I just went to grab some lunch and on the way home I got on it a bit. I was met with sluggish acceleration and a flashing CEL. Before I could even turn the car off, the CEL went away. I was about 200 yards from my house so I coasted home. What could the issue be?

2008 Passat 2.0T Tippy with APR stage 2.

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Camry :: 2011 - How To Install Wired Backup Camera

I have a 2011 Camry, and I would like to install a wired backup camera. What's the best way of running it from the license plate area to the center dash?

I would like to replace the original radio with a new radio that has a built-in display, so ideally the camera cable would end up somewhere behind the radio. And I would like the cable to not be visible, if possible.

This is the item I'm considering buying: [URL] ....

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Ford Excursion :: Fog Lights Installed And Wired Up But Shorts

I finally got my fog lights installed and wired up. They're not working at all, and I've checked all the fuses under the steering wheel. I'll get the multimeter out and checked the Wires them selves in the morning, but shorts that I don't know what to do. I can't find a good diagram of the fuse box either so I don't know which one to check exactly so I just checked them all.

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Camry :: Jump Start Cables Wired Incorrectly And Now Car Won't Crank Or Turn Over

As the title says I incorrectly wired my jump start cables wrong when I was trying to jump start it. My car seems like it's completely dead now and afterwards when I did wire it correctly and let it charge for about 15 minutes no luck.

My odometer and just about everything in the car seems dead. When I put it in accessory the only electrical thing that seems to be working is the light where my ignition key goes into and all my regular lights inside the car. Thing's that don't work are my power seat and stereo/cd player

I have replaced all visible fuses underneath my hood and underneath my wheel as well. Does the Camry have some sort of safety fuse just in case incidents like these occur?

I bought a new battery but my car still won't crank or turn over. Some say it might be the solenoid or the starter. But I don't know.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2000 - Wired Chewed Up - CEL With Code P1744?

I have a 2000 expedition with the 5.4L and a squirrel got under the hood and chewed up some wires that run to the pcm along with some vacuum lines. I got all the wires I seen spliced back together. I drove it yesterday for the first time and my check engine light came on. I pulled a p1744 a trans solenoid for torque converter lock up. The fluid isn't low and looks bright red on dipstick. It drives and shifts fine. Is there a certain wire from the pcm harness I need to look at first?

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IS F (2008-2014) :: Sluggish Downshift When Car In Auto Mode

Just left my lexus dealer after getting an oil change. When I go WOT with the car in auto mode (whether or not in sport mode), it is very sluggish to downshift and when it finally does downshift, will accelerate very slowly above 4,000 rpm...almost no power.

In manual mode, no issue, accelerates great. All fluids are fine and no CEL. Gonna take it back to dealer in a few minutes.. Dealer has no clue what would cause the issue, they did not reset the ECU or do anything other than change oil and filter.

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Acceleration Seems Sluggish When Getting On The Interstate

2007 F150 King Ranche 4wd 5.4 192000 miles.

I started noticing a little stutter when trying to hold 45 mph if I hit a mild incline, and also at 70 or so if i hit an incline.

Around the same time, I noticed that acceleration seemed sluggish when getting on the interstate. Gas mileage dropped from 16-17 mpg combined to 12-13 mpg combined.

Historically, since I bought the truck 3 years ago, if I go WOT to get up to highway speed (Not my normal mode of driving, more of a test) I would get a misfire on cylinder 8.

About 2 weeks ago, driving around town, I got a check engine light. The code said it was rich on bank 2. Cleared the code, it has not come back.

Here is what I have done:
Flushed the tranny (Vehicle history shows this has been done consistently since original purchase)
Changed all 8 plugs (none broke!) and all 8 COPs. - Fixed the misfire on cylinder 8.

Still sluggish and still have the stutter at 45 and 70 on an incline. I know it's not a racecar, but 0-60 in 19.6 seconds seems quite unreasonable.

New Fuel Filter
New Air filter
Cleaned MAF sensor
Had the back pressure on exhaust checked. No blockage there.

My torque app tells me the TPS is functioning normally.
No codes are being thrown, no CEL at this time.

What am I missing? I have a reader that will chart up to 8 sensors as I drive.

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IS F (2008-2014) :: Car Is Very Sluggish And Up Shifts Slow Even With Sport Mode On

I recently traded in my 2013 Audi TTRS in a very limited edition color. For my 2008 Lexus ISF... With 71k Miles. And I feel as if the car is very sluggish and up shifts are slow even with sport mode on! My buddy has an ISF as well and he even said mine shifts slower than his. I was wondering if maybe the previous owner skipped a few key maintainence things to cause such an issue. And yes I know how to drive a care, yes it's in sport mode and yes the vehicle is warmed prior to stupidity. The last recorded maintenance was at 60K miles.

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Acceleration Sluggish - RPMs Takes A Few Seconds To Come Down

Triton 4.6, new air filter, throttle body cleaned, new fuel filter. Seems sluggish off idle, and when I let off accelerator, rpm's take a few seconds to come down. If the truck is setting still, a quick hit on the throttle takes a second for the engine to build rpm's.

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Sluggish Throttle - 5 Seconds Delay After Hitting The Gas

I've got an 04' F150 and the ONLY problem I have with it is a ridiculously sluggish throttle. I bought the Superchips Tuner in hopes of eliminating this, but the delay in the throttle is still there (power is much better however). When I talk delay, I am talking hitting the gas and probably a realistic .5-1 sec delay. It is quite annoying to say the least.

My question...is there something that I can do myself to improve the throttle response? I drove an older 150..probably an 02 or 03 and it felt sooooo much more powerful just do to the throttle. I am even willing to ditch the Superchips if the Ford re-tune would do a better job.

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Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2003 F250 - Rear Cargo Light Wired To Reverse Lights?

I am wanting to wire my 03 f250 cargo (3rd brake light area) lights to come on when i put my truck in reverse.

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Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2008 - Car Started Jumping And Being Sluggish / Random Misfire Codes

I have a 2008 Accent Hatchback with 130k+ miles. I got a pretty good deal on it from a fellow who maintained pretty good service and had installed an aftermarket air intake (well, he removed the stock one and put a small, roughly 4" diameter, filter that is open to engine compartment) and all looked pretty good.

At the first fueling, I noticed issue - I had to rev motor for about 30-45 seconds to get it to stay started. Figuring it was an evap issue, I replaced purge valve and gas cap (cap was obviously loose). This did not correct the problem. I did not worry about it to much because with that exception, the car drove wonderfully back and forth to work, etc.....until recently.

Car started "jumping" and being sluggish. Codes came back as random misfire. Plugs and wires are only a few months old. I wondered if it had something to do with fuel so I ordered filter and pump (figured i would replace both since I was going to be pulling top off tank anyways) - this is going to be my project for the day.

Here is the kicker though : I noticed in the past day or so that car has been okay on my short commute to work in the morning and back home in evening. When I went to store midday and was parked on HOT pavement, I had issues right away. Car is very temperamental as the temperature increases. My wife also noted that last night while driving about 15 minutes away that the engine wall was hot enough to be uncomfortable to the touch of her bare foot and issues were abundant.

Once I get to speed in 5th gear, I seem to be okay, no issues (yet). It is primarily during acceleration and mostly during low RPM (low for this car anyways which seems to run best at 2500+).

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Truck Shuddered / Lost Speed And Incredibly Sluggish Trying To Get Uphill

My truck decided to have some issues last weekend coming home from a friends house. After being on the road for about an hour the truck shuddered, lost speed and was incredibly sluggish trying to get up the hill. It flashed the CEL and then went out. I was doing about 75 with the cruise on.

After slowing down to about 60 it stopped the shuddering and resumed operations as normal. Until about 20 minutes later when it repeated the above.

The next day I grabbed my reader and found the P0302 and P0306 codes. I cleared the codes and took it for a "test" drive up and down the mountain to see if it would trip the codes again. It didn't flip the codes. I thought I might have been dealing with a "one off" issue and left it alone for a few days.

Two days ago the CEL light came on and stayed on this time. Sure enough P0306. Cylinder 2 did not throw a code this time. After doing some research on here I ordered two new COPs and bought a mechanics stethoscope and some new spark plugs just in case.

The stethoscope confirms that cylinder 6 is having some issues. The COPs came in today so I'll take it apart tomorrow and see what I see. I'll be looking at both the COPs and the plugs to see what may be causing the problem. The "nice" thing about this is that at least it's one of the easier COPs to get to.

Should be a nice day for working on the truck.

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Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Sluggish Power Door Locks

I now have 2 doors (driver and left rear doors) that have sluggish power door locks. They sometimes work, but always have energy when operated.

I'm thinking that maybe it's a connector with resistance and causing a voltage drop since it's on both doors on the same side of the car.

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Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Sluggish In Throttle Response And Low On Power

I just changed timing belt all accessory belts and water pump on my 2001 Hyundai Elantra. Now the check engine light is on and it is sluggish in throttle response. It sounds smooth. I was quite sure I had the cam and crank marks dead on. I turned it 2 revolutions by hand and they both looked dead on before I started it. If I were off 1 or 2 teeth would that be the cause? And if so how do I fix it? Also will it hurt it to drive it that way?

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Dodge - Grandcaravan :: 1999 - Sluggish Suddenly - Low On Power

1999 grand caravan 3.0L approx 250,000 Kilometers / 155,000 miles

Yesterday morning I was on my way to work, highway mainly. We have some cold weather here lately, say this morning low -20c range with a light wind. I was about 15 minutes ( 1/2 way & running fine ) while into my drive when i stopped at a light ( vehicle at operating temp )... light goes green, then i accelerated i felt a slight lurch/hesitation, almost a miss but it kept going and then it seemed to be slightly over revving / under powered to get up to the typical highway speed of 80 KMH / 50 MPH in that area.

It felt a bit low on power and a bit louder than normal, i chalk that up to the fact that after the "lurch" it felt like the trans was, I don't want to say slipping but kind of. It would settle into its final high gear a tad later than normal.

I will say it seems like it is reacting like when you accelerate on a slippery or icy road and the speedometer would/should swing up but you would be creeping or not moving as fast as the speed indicated, but the traction is fine, and the speedo just indicates the actual speed traveling while my foot is in it and it should really be spinning its wheels. It does get up to speed but is lagging...

Ran poorly when i cold started it after the 5 hours at work but made it home with all the same conditions. It smoothed out some as it warmed up

When I am parked the idle seems to hunt in a high low high scenario that repeats itself every few seconds, No codes stored, no CEL, no codes while idling, or under forced load IE running in gear with foot on brake and loading engine. scanned it when i got home.

All fluids are up, the trans fluid is just above the add mark but clean. I did a water pump, timing belt and tensioner a couple months ago...the pump was a weeper, hated that job. New air filter and plugs,cap, rotor wires installed then, say early NOV.Cleaned the throttle body then as well. No fluids on the ground since then. all wires are properly inserted in the cap. I had a cyl misfire code just after the new wires were installed 2 months ago cyls 1,3,5 but that was the cap end terminals were just slightly loose. a push back on and no codes no miss after that, till yesterday? full tank of gas two days ago and have about 100 kmh/60 miles on that tank.

all of these conditions are slight, like they are definitely noticeable but none are extremely worse. I'm thinking sensor? I can snap the throttle when it is running in park and it revs but seems like its not as crisp. I know my dad had trans issues with his 89 GC 3.0L but other than this water pump of late , this thing has treated us very very well. I'm not leaning towards trans, especially since the idle seems wonky/erratic.Previously it wouldn't snap your neck ,but it would downshift and pass or get up and go when you asked, now, not so much...

UPDATE ....THIS MORNING I took it out for a small drive this morning after the school bus came, ran really rough on the cold start, didn't stall but was a RUH - RUH - RUH labored running before engine warmed up. Down the road waiting at the bus stop it stall once while waiting for the bus to arrive. started right back up no issue.

still have a rough ruh ruh ruh ruh kind of sensation like one beat per second timing, very strong when cold, smoothed out to about 90% gone when warmed up but still noticeable. can get it to spin the tires on the icy roads but doesn't seem to accept the acceleration applied to the pedal like it should. i have my foot in it it should either downshift and charge or spin and swing the speedo up... but if i did get the wheels spinningthey would just climb up slower than normal like 30 mph 40 kmh and climbing when it should be climbing and reading the wheelspin at a much faster rate like 40-50 mph and . no codes active or stored ... my OBD tool has an emission " guage " on it likea stoplight, green yellow and red. it does work when i had the misfire after the new wires ( see water pump re&re listed above ) the light was yellow, I refit the wires in the cap and cleared the miss fire code and it read green. figured that tidbitwas worth mentioning.

basically it feels like the engine is being held back, like a heavy , heavy spring would on a carburated vehicle. it still works but has a wet blanket on it.

also will mention in the past week or two I'd say i may have noticed a slightly lower idle speed when stopped at a light but like i mentioned the heater fan and lights aregetting used more often at higher frequency as it has been cold and the sun sets at about 4 pm this time of year

temp here this morning -25c / -13f

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Ford Aerostar :: 1993 - Lack Of Power / Sluggish

We have a 1993 Ford Aerostar 4wd Eddie Bauer edition. This van has 150,000 miles on it. In the past 2 years we've had a number of problems related to the van idling hard and having a lack of power.

First, the van revved high and low and was unable to maintain a steady idle....I replaced the throttle positioning sensor and this fixed the problem. Next, the van was running sluggish and was very slow to respond when you pushed the accelerator....I replaced the oxygen sensor and it fixed the problem.

Currently, (a few months after changing the oxygen sensor and the problem being temporarily fixed) the van is having the same issue as before I replaced the O2 sensor (running sluggish and slow to respond to the accelerator). If you press the accelerator down (even to the floor) it barely responds, you can get it driving at highways speeds but it takes a long time to baby it up to those speeds.

When you let off the accelerator after pressing the petal down it actually sometimes gets a second of power. It also is not maintaining a stable idle (fluctuating between high and nearly dying). I bought a new 02 sensor and installed it but it didn't fix the problem this time. The exhaust smells rich in gas. What else might make the van run like this? Possible solutions for where to look next?

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Lexus LS 2007+ :: Sluggish Acceleration Like Car Is In Wrong Gear And Has No Power

I have an 08 460 LS. I am experiencing sluggish acceleration. It feels like the car is in the wrong gear and has no power. This is intermittent and most of the time ok. Occasionally it is jerky when pulling out when it has proper power.

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Grand Prix :: Sluggish Acceleration And Little Power - Car Rough Idling

I have encountered a problem with my car engine. I noticed the car was not putting out enough power. When I press on the gas pedal aka accelerator the car drives real slow or sluggish; it seems like there's something clogged. I recently replaced the alternator which was draining the car battery. Since then the car starts up without any problem. I assumed its the EGR valve. The original EGR valve was quite carboned up but the used one from the junk yard didn't do much justice to the problem.

Additionally, the car is rough idling which I believe was due to bad gasoline.

Catalytic converter was struck by curb and heat shield was damage. Everything seems to be intact!

2000 Pontiac Grand Prix SE 136km+

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