Prius (2004-09) :: Lost Acceleration - Warning Lights And Fault (DTC) Codes
2008 Prius recently lost acceleration (would only creep along) and soon stopped. Warning lights - red triangle with !, red split car on mid, check engine - came on. About 10 minutes later the car started and allowed my daughter to creep the last 1/4 mile home. DTC's - P0A3F and P2196. Was recently gassed up, so checked gas cap, thinking it may have set the oxygen sensor code. It was loose, tightened it. Pulled the EFI fuse for a couple minutes to reset the codes (not sure it did). Put the smart key back in and warning lights came on again. May have to take to dealer, but would like to have some notion as to what's causing this. Possibly related -- a couple weeks ago the 12V battery got drained overnight. Pulled it and recharged and everything seemed to be running fine.
View 10 RepliesLexus RX 2004-09 :: Engine And VSC Lights On - Fault Codes
Picked up my rx300 on Monday. Got engine and vsc lights on. Tried battery off to reset. Worked for a day then back. Got a code reader and reset. Found a p00016 code? Crankshaft potion/camshaft position bank 1 sensor A correlation ?
View 1 RepliesGTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Fault Codes / Power Drop - AC Heater Controls Dials Lights Are Out
So I picked up a 337 a little while ago, which I absolutely love, but there are some fault codes I have to deal with. Pretty sure I took care of the ABS hydraulic pump code. The ABS and ASR light came on after driving in some snow, but I found a thread about that, cleaned the fuses and the light is no longer on.
The following are the problems I am experiencing while driving the car:
I am seeming to have a power drop in 1st gear at low rpms. I have never driven a turbo'd car but I don't believe this is just turbo lag. It isn't a quick increase in power, rather a brief decrease, sort of like it's bogging down. I thought it was just me at first, but I have noticed it too many times and my gf even noticed it. I am not sure if this is related, but I thought I would mention it.
On occasion the dash lights will flash off then back on and reset my trip odo and clock. This has been happening more frequently as of late. It normally happens when I turn the lights on, or switch the brights on. The engine has completely turned off once at a stop light. I am currently searching all the codes online and am hoping to find a solution, but I am definitely concerned.
Also the AC/heater controls dials lights are out (just the three dials), and the 12v power outlet is not working. I tried switching the fuse but it isn't that. Thought this might connected. Final bit of info, the instrument cluster had a problem and was replaced by a dealer on November 29th. I don't know much more about it, I bought it right after that was done. Here are the actual fault codes.
Address 01: Engine
Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 ML
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 07510
[Code] ....
Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: AdvanceTrac / Hill Descent Fault - Warning Lights Show Up
Had these 2 warning lights show up this morning for no reason. What does it mean? Truck drove fine to work. Guess a trip to the service dept is in the future.
View 2 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F350 - Check Gauges / TBC Fault / Warning Lights
Just got a new-to-me 2006 F350 Super Duty XL with the 5.4L V8 and 5-speed auto. I haven't had a full-size truck in a few years and forgot what I was missing!
When I bought the truck, all gauges were inoperative except for the fuel and oil pressure gauges. The previous owner told me they would work intermittently and at some point just stopped. The usual warning lights - ABS, CEL, and "the wrench" - were all lit, and from Googling and searching this forum, it looked like an easy fix - probably a pinched or frayed shifter wire, or possibly a cluster repair.
I took it home and did a self test on the gauges. The "sweep gauges" made everything swing fine, so I was thinking it might not be a problem in the cluster. I pulled the steering column apart, removed the Tow/Haul overdrive wire from the plastic retainer, re-ran it with some slack, taped the end where it comes out of the shifter (even though I saw no breaks/frays) cleaned the connections, gave it a dollop of dielectric grease in the connector, and put it all back together. VOILA - GAUGES and no warning lights! You can imagine the touchdown dance in the driveway.
Fast forward a few weeks and....back to no gauges and warning lights lit. Figuring the overdrive wire had finally given up, I ordered and installed a replacement shifter figuring it was an easy and cheap fix. No joy - same problem. Tried cleaning and reseating the connection. Nothing. I've searched FTE like mad and it seems like 95% of the problems are with the wire exiting the shifter fraying and/or blowing a fuse, but this is a new shifter. I've also checked fuses #2, #24, #33, #36, #41, and #45 (some referenced #19 but I don't have a fuse there). All were unbroken - just put them back in and reseated firmly. I did a code pull via OBD2 and have a "rear catalytic efficiency degraded" code...not sure if that's related, but figured I just had an exhaust issue.
I may take the dash cover off and try to clean and reset the connections on the gauge cluster, as well as do the same for the PCM. Is it possible that the tow/haul overdrive wire to the PCM (where the shifter connects to) is bad? How to test and/or replace if it comes up bad?
Prius (Gen 2) :: Warning Lights With Codes Diagnosed
A few months back, my wife (2007 Prius) was telling me that she had some stuff going on with it. I found the diagnostic test for the 12 v battery and it failed. So I replaced the 12v and everything was fine until about two weeks ago. Two weeks ago, she got a check engine light. Then she stopped the car and when she fired back up again, the light was extinguished. So, I figured no big deal. Yesterday, she went to leave and the car was lit up like a Christmas tree. So she took my truck to work and left me a note about this. She figured I would drive my garage queen Vette... but I chose to drive the Prius to see if I could figure out some things, which I did.
Here is everything that I noticed thus far:
First, I will start with lights. Brake System Warning light is on, Check engine malfunction indicator is on, Red triangle with exclamation point Master warning light is on, VSC Vehicle stability control system warning light is on. Then on the tv screen panel, the Hybrid system warning light is on. I ran down to O'Reilly's to see what codes it pulled, and this is what I have: C0200 Right VSS, C0205 Left VSS, C1259 Regenerative Malfunction, C1310 Malfunction H/V System, P1121 Coolant flow control, X2 Valve Sensor Circuit stack, P0A80 Replace Hybrid Battery Pack, P3015 Battery Block 5 Becomes Weak, P3016 Battery Block 6 becomes weak, and then a few more repeats.
What I have looked at and what I have noticed/experienced thus far; At the beginning of the day yesterday, when stopped at a light, the engine would turn on and then shut off frequently (approx every 20 seconds). A lot more than normal. As of today, the engine just stays on constantly... even after the battery indicator shows full, it stays running. The battery cooling fan stays running. Sometimes the car lacks power at start out, When slowing down, I tried selecting the "B" as I know that it would normally work as a trans brake and regenerate power, it doesn't seem to be doing that and it seems as though the tranny doesn't know exactly what to do. I checked the 12v battery again through the diagnostic and it says it was at 12.2v so that should be good. I noticed that the battery indicator will show full and then just drop down to one bar and then go back up to full and stay at full for a while. Lastly, I saw the inverter check and I did that by turning the car on (ready on) and I can see the fluid moving around and I can feel it in the tube and the fluid level is good.
It sounds to me as if the ECM/ECU may be bad. Or maybe the HV battery. I was leaning towards the ECM/ECU just because of all of the different fluctuations, but with electrical stuff, it could very well be the battery.
Prius (Gen 2) :: 2008 Warning Lights With Codes Came On After Oil Change
2008 Prius with @ 70K. Never any problems.
My wife goes and has the oil changed at one the 'stay in your car' 10 minutes changes. They change the oil and replace a couple burnt out bulbs. Drive home the 2 miles to the house and gets ready for work. Leaves for work and sees the 'check engine' light on. Goes back to the oil place, they throw it on the computer and read a PO101 and PO171 code. "has to do with with the fuel mixture". She goes to work 11 miles and back. This a.m.
1. Check Engine with !
2. VSC
3. another light with !
4. Red Triangle with !
Prius (2001-03) :: Codes P3130 And P0303 - Warning Lights Going On And Off
I've been having issues with my beloved 2003 with a little over 130k with warning lights going on and off. I went to O'Reilly's they gave me the codes P3130 and P0303. One of codes states "misfiring on all cylinders," they didn't have a description for the other one.
Dealership won't tell me anything about what the codes mean. The warning lights are an exclamation point inside a triangle, check engine, and what looks like a thermometer in red.
Just got the oil changed a little over a week ago, dealership said they didn't notice any problems. Warning lights came back on last Thursday and just disappeared about an hour ago.
Prius (Gen 1) :: Codes P3006, C1213, C1259 With Warning Lights Diagnosed
Here is my situation- back in 2014 I had a local mechanic replace my HV battery and 12V battery after the Red Triangle of Death. Well yesterday that triangle reared its ugly head again! (and cruise control stopped working) Since this mechanic has 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty on all parts and labor, I figured this should be covered. I drove my wife's car to work today, then after work drove the Prius over there to find them closed until Friday!
So I had the guys at Advanced Auto read the codes for me and got P3006, C1213, and C1259. I have done extensive reading and researching, much of it on this site on these codes, but my main question is this:
I commute about 20 miles one way, and on certain days my wife commutes 10 to 22 miles the opposite direction. There are 3 days we go opposite ways this week, and at least one that is completely unmanageable without 2 cars.
Intrigue :: Can't Stay Running After Starting When Engine Is Warm - No Codes
I have a 1998 Intrigue with over 225,000 miles. It seems to run well for the most part. However....
After I have driven the car for a while and gotten it up to temperature, if I stop and let it cool for a while, when I go to start it up again, it will start easily and then immediately die. Almost like the fuel got cut off. My work around at this time is that if I manually keep the rpms up using the gas pedal it will stay running. If I take my foot off to quick it will still die but if I can do it or 20 to 40 seconds it will stay running.
Other clues:
There are no codes.
If I only drive for a shorter time, when I go to start the engine it will start but it will rev up and down (sometimes for up to ten seconds) before settling down to the proper idle.
When I start the car in the morning, it will start right up but tends to rev above 1200 rpms for about a minute or two before it will settle down.
What has been changed in the past couple of years:
IAC
MAF
EGR
Crankshaft Sensor
Wires (but not plugs)
Also the throttle body was cleaned pretty thoroughly. The guy who did it did think that the throttle body gasket was kinda iffy but intact.
I checked the FPR but no fuel leaked from it even after running the engine for five minutes.
Injectors could be going bad, maybe?? But wouldn't that cause problems other than just at a warm start?
Prius PHEV Plug-In :: Early System Shutdown - Warning Lights / Error Codes
Have been having cascading problems since installing PIS 10kWh system in April. Early system shutdown, failed BMS boards, then triggering of Prius warning lights. The latter required disconnecting the 12v battery to 'reboot' and cancel them per Robb of PIS. But then, when attempting to do an electrical load test using air con & other accessories, we triggered several yellow warning lights that do no go away with a reboot. Have been told that we need to have a dealer read the codes to troubleshoot.
Read more: [URL] ....
Oldsmobile - Intrigue :: Lights Dim / Brakes Making Funky Noise
I have a 2002 Olds Intrigue. It has two problems ...
(1) When I'm driving down the road, the dashboard lights / headlights will dim & then brighten; dim & then brighten. I feel just a little bit of lag in the gas peddle, but it has never stalled on me. It has had two new alternators installed since I've had it, along with the battery replaced a couple of times.
(2) In March, I got stuck in a snowbank. The car has a feature called "Traction Control". Ever since I managed to get myself "unstuck", my dummy lights on the dashboard go crazy -- Trac Off / Anti-Lock Brakes / Service Vehicle lights all come on and stay on. And, the car will make funky noises when I creep to a stop OR try to take off from a stop ... feels like the traction control is trying to work because of the noise (usually what it sounds like if I hit a patch of ice in the winter, but there's no ice this time) ... and the brake / gas peddle vibrate ... sometimes I have to stomp on the brake in order to make the car stop. My mechanic has tested the car / checked it for error codes / had replaced the brakes prior to the problem ... nothing shows signs of wear or fault.
Passat (B5) :: ABS / ASR Fault Codes
Can dealership diagnostic tools read ABS/ASR fault codes, or if those codes are even stored?
View 1 RepliesGolf IV R32 :: CEL For 9 Fault Codes
So i installed a USP test pipe and got Revo Stage 2 upgrade yesterday. I had no codes before the test pipe. I still have a CEL for 9 fault codes. 4 of which are all the o2 sensor codes. With all these codes my Traction Control light is on too. I think this may be a safety thing. I thought Stage 2 was supposed to get rid of the CEL. Especially for the 02 sensors in the rear.
View 6 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: Fault Codes From ABS?
I coded a few things through VCDS (fogs as DRLs, turned up XDS, enabled TSC, etc.) and now I'm getting fault codes from ABS...
I did an autoscan before I started and there were no fault codes before.
Passat (B6) :: Sputtering And Fault Codes
Driving home car started sputtering like crazy. vag com'd it and this is what i got from the scan!
Friday,06,April,2012,16:16:02:36785
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.2 (x64)
Data version: 20120126
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chassis Type: 3C0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 15 16 17 19 1C 25 42 44 46 52 53 56 62 72
[Code] ....
Intrigue :: 2001 - Dash Lights Don't Work And Gas Gauge Stays At Fuel When Start The Car
I just bought a 01 Intrigue that the dash lights don't work and the gas gauge stays at fuel when you start the car. It goes to empty when you shut it off.
View 4 RepliesTouareg :: Fault Codes P0491 And P0492
I was told that these are affiliated to a problem with the air pump (not the one you pump the tire up with) -- Need to locate the air pump? Hoping to find a loose hose or something I can fix.
View 12 RepliesGolf V R32 :: Fault Codes After Engine Rebuild
All seems to be going well, drove the car for first 200 meters yesterday! Replacing the faulty parts is always easiest, just need to know if there are any shortcuts for fixing this. What's the engine oil temperature sensor? The one bolted in oil pan?
The intake air temperature is showing -40 degrees celsius.
MAF is plugged correctly.
VAG-COM gives me these following codes:
3 Faults Found:
000406 - Engine Oil Temp. Sensor (G8)
P0196 - 004 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
000275 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42)
P0113 - 002 - Signal too High - Intermittent
000258 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 002 - Signal too Low
Readiness: 0000 0000