Ford Excursion :: Grinding / Clunk Noise And General Loose Feeling From Front End
But I'm still getting a grinding/clunk noise and general loose feeling from the front end. The only play I can feel is when I grab the u-joint/knuckle and pull up and down on it. I also noticed the seal at the end of the axle shaft tube is not there on 1 side... would this lack of seal cause the looseness?
View 9 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Knocking Noise Most Noticeably At Hard Acceleration Or Taking Off In General
I have begun to notice a "Knock" or "rattle" in the engine. I know diesels have a tendency to sound like that just from running but that sound is more of a "cackle" if you ask me.
I can hear the "knock" most noticeably at hard acceleration or taking off in general. It can also be heard during idle and every so faintly at deceleration with the torque converter locked so it makes me thing its mechanical due to the nature of the way the sound is audible.
I believe the sound is coming from the passenger side bank as that is where I can hear it the best with my head under the hood. I have a code reader and checked, I have no visible codes other than it telling me about secondary fuel circuit high which I suspect was from showing off with my friends.
I did a cylinder balance test and again got 3 (PO269) and 8(PO284) which I have been told are very common.
I checked my ICP readings and it was 500~ and 11%
Pulse width for injectors was 2.50~
I did a KOER test and received no codes
Glow Plugs showed okay
KOEO (PO605)- Internal Control Module Read Only Memory error.
Exhaust Absolute Back Pressure was 16.2 at Idle with MBRP 4" Turbo back.
Also, I have noticed a drop of about 5-10 degrees in my oil temp and about 100 degrees drop in my EGT's although it has been pretty cold here recently (32 degree oil temp when I started her at 2 in the afternoon)..
I think it might be a bad piston skirt? I am guessing that from my experience with motorcycle engines but these are a totally different beast and that is why I am here...
I have 634,000 Miles and from what I have been told the engine has never been broken into so I would expect something like this myself. I am mostly looking for a place to start. Should I pull the oil pan and look for debris? (Oil was clean last time I changed it less than 2000 miles ago).
Should I pull the passenger bank apart and look inside? Is there a chance I am just hearing the noise due to the additive wearing off and me being used to the quieter engine?
S-10 :: 1997 2.2 Dying Going Down The Road When Gets Warm
I have a 97 s10 2.2 and when it gets warm it will dye going down the road. I checked when it dyed to see if the fuel pump was priming and it wasn't so I kept messing with it and it seemed as when the truck cooled down a bit it would prime then crank but you wouldn't get far down the road and it would dye again so I don't know where to start...
View 1 RepliesGolf VI R :: Road Noise When Coasting Only
I just bought a 2013 Golf R and have been driving around with some kind of road noise since the day I got it. The sound occurs when coasting only, and is most audible above 55mph. It is best described as a mid-high-pitched hum or drone, kind of like a much quieter semi (when you drive next to them on the highway).
I took the car in to a VW dealer and they were able to hear the sound on a test drive but were unable to diagnose the source. They rotated tires, checked all bearings/hubs, and eventually called VW to find out that it is a "characteristic of the vehicle" and that VW is aware of it and nothing more.
Aside form the noise there are absolutely no issues with the car and it only has about 8k miles on it...
Lexus RX 2010-15 :: 2012 RX350 - Road Noise Transmitted Back Into Cabin When Driving On Rough Road Surface
My 2012 RX350 now for over a year and like it a lot.........BUT.
There's seems to be a lot "road noise" that's transmitted back into the cabin, like driving over expansion joints on blacktop or rough road surface, is this normal?
I drove a 2000 RX300 for 100,000 miles and don't remember it being this noisy. Interior noise is great and quiet.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - Road Noise Particularly On Concrete Highways
I need new tires for my Golf. Road noise has been an issue for me with this car--particularly on concrete highways. The front tires were replaced 60K miles ago with General Altmax HP. The back tires are the originals. Any recommendation for tires that will quiet my ride?
View 5 RepliesGolf IV R32 :: Rear Sway Make Noise When Go Over Road Bumps
Rear sway bar make noise when you go over bumps in the road?
View 24 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Increased Road Noise Between 50kph And About 115kph
I own a MK4 GTI with 182000km on it, I am experiencing some much louder than usual road noise. The noise is only present between 50kph and about 115kph, when I go faster than that the noise seems to attenuate.
I took the car in, it was put onto the hoist and the noise is not coming from the front (we ran it on the stand, but the noise did not seem to be present when revved up to the speed mentioned above). That leads me to believe that the noise could be coming from the tires or from the back assembly. I am going to be putting on my winter tires here soon so that should rule out the tires.
Golf V R32 :: Knocking Noise From The Rear Over Uneven Road Surfaces
I took the R in for a passenger side seat issue (recliner not working), and while I was there I had them look into a light knocking noise I was experiencing.
The noise would happen most noticeably at low speeds, over uneven road surfaces...but not over things like speed bumps. I checked under the car, checked the hatch, made sure the spare/tools were secure, and nothing worked.
VW figured out that the noise was coming from the lower rubber rear spring plate, part (1K0-512-297-D). Not sure if it was one side or both, but they replaced both.
All better now, no more noise! Just wanted to make a thread for those of you who like to hunt down and fix noises.
Arctic - Cat :: 2001 - Start To Stutter / If Open The Throttle Too Much Then Just Dies?
Im working on a 2001 arctic cat 300. After it is started it will run fine for 5-20 sec. 5 sec at idle, and around 20 with more throttle, then it starts to stutter and sounds like a two stroke. If I open the throttle too much, it just dies on me. The interesting thing is that if I restart it, it will run fine for another 20 sec.
The trick I have found to get it running like it should, is to open the trottle very slowly over a period of as much as 5 minutes. After that it will run perfect! The air temperature is that of a typical norwegian summer, ie in the 60s. But it shouldnt take THAT long to warm up. lol
The engine is a four stroke, single cylinder, cv carb, electronic ignition. The carb is the keihin cvk32. What could cause this kind of problems? I have of course taken apart the carb, and cleaned it.
Golf V R32 :: Clunking Noise When Going Over Bumps And Humps In The Road - Sub Frame Bolts?
Do we suffer from this clunking noise as well? I know I have rattles and things that make noise over bumps and humps in the road. But is this what I hear?
[URL] .....
Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Fuel Consumption At Idle During Arctic Operation
Did a little experiment today. I was in Fairbanks this week and today it was between -35* and -40*F. Quite frankly I was too lazy to park my truck behind the building and plug in, so I just left it running.
2015 F350 KR, 63k miles. Fully deleted and tuned with a PPE Ez-Lynk. I've been running the stock tune because mileage seems about the same between all of them and when it's winter with ice and snow, you don't go anywhere fast. 5W40 synthetic oil with 7300 miles on it and 220ish hours. Change engine oil soon light has been on for the last 200 miles and 20 hours.
I have the BD Diesel high idle kit with the rotating switch to adjust the idle level. Fuel consumption was monitored using the truck computer, which I have found to be very accurate on a consistent basis. Computer was reset at the start of each trial.
Trial 1: RPMS set at 1250 via high idle kit. Truck idled for 6 hours, 10 minutes. Fuel consumption was indicated at 5.2 gallons, or roughly .85 gallons per hour. Engine oil temp was about 185*F (remember ambient temp is -40). I was pretty surprised at how much fuel it used.
Trial 2: Back from lunch at Taco King. Figured the truck itself is pretty smart, so if the engine got too cold, it would probably boost the RPMS on it's own. Turned high idle off. Idled for 4 hours 15 minutes. Fuel consumption was 1.8 gallons, or roughly .43 gallons per hour. Engine oil temp was 150*F. Much more reasonable consumption.
.85 gallons an hour is pretty expensive but .43 gallons an hour is much, much more economical.
The biggest difference, besides fuel consumption, was engine oil temperature with a 35* difference. Is 150*F a safe, sustainable oil temperature for these engines to idle at without causing excessive wear?
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: No Starter Motor Noise - Car Won't Start When Warm
Car doesn't seem to want to start when warm.
1.8T AWD, 02J swap, no clutch switch (I can start without pressing the clutch).
Cold start, cranks and starts on a dime, after the car warms up and I've turned off the car, say went for a quick grocery run, the car won't start afterwards.
No cranking, nothing. Fuel pump primes, then not a sound. Everything on the dash lights up just fine. No starter motor noise, no clicking.... nada...
Fairly new starter motor pulled from a junkyard donor. Can't think of anything else.
Last time I got stranded in a parking lot, I gave it a few whacks with a tire iron and the car started just fine. Could it be a bad solenoid?
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - Tires Making More Noise In The Warm Weather?
My car has 130k miles and has recently developed a worrying noise. It makes an extra whirring sound, like another set of gears spinning, but I don't think I would describe it as a grinding noise. I live in VT and I thought maybe it was my (studless) snow tires making more noise in the warm weather because I noticed it about a month and a half ago when it warmed up. Now that I have my all season tires on, it's still making the noise. The tire guys didn't notice anything wrong when the swap happened (but they only do tires there and I didn't ask them to look for anything).
As far as I can tell it is dependent on wheel speed, not engine speed. It starts at about 20-25mph and gets louder the faster I go. At about 65 the normal road noise is louder than the new noise. If I turn the wheel to the right to any degree the noise goes away. I can't tell if it is completely gone, but it seems like it is. There is no real change if I turn the wheel to the left, though it might get slightly worse. When the noise is going I can feel a vibration in the floorboard that matches the sound. The sound seems like it is coming from in front of me, but I can't really tell if it is left, right, or center. As far as I can tell that is the only new noise, no clicking/griding when I turn the wheel etc.
I'm taking it in for normal 130k maintenance in a week....
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2008 - Makes Annoying Noise When Engine Is Warm And A/C Is Turned On
Mk4 Golf City*, 2008, gas, manual, sunroof. Canadian budget-model.
Mysterious noise like WOMMMMM, WOMMMM itinerantly: Noise is only when air conditioning is on and the engine is warm. I can feel vibrations in the brake pedal. *You can't hear the noise under the hood*. It is quite loud in the cab, though, definitely coming from under the dashboard.
I have stuck my nose in. I removed the glove box and listened to the blower motor, it seemed to be coming from further toward the driver's side. It will be like wmmmmOMMMMM WOMMMMM pause WOMMMM like something is vibrating too close to something else and the friction causes it to go back to where it was.
I hit a speed bump going a bit fast. I broke the small cooling fan somehow so it was just loose hanging on its hub. I had that repaired but the noise hasn't gone away. It seems to be getting more frequent but so far there isn't any indication of the car suffering. This is the second summer it has made the noise.It haunts my sleep.
Lexus LS 2007+ :: General Vibration From 75 - 85 Mph On LS460
Our 2007 LS 460 (98k miles) drives like a dream except from about 75-85 mph we have a general vibration. Its most evident in the steering wheel but everything in the car has a general vibration. It may have been there for a few months now, but I felt it when I drove it yesterday. There is absolutely no vibration below 75 and none above 85 (I was cruising at 90 mph and the car was solid). I tried to do some investigating:
Tires: Appear to be fine in regards to wear and the tire pressure is about the same in all of them in the mid 30 s. Alignment is fine and the car does not pull to any side.
Brakes: New brake pads about 10k miles ago at dealership and work absolutely fine.
Transmission / engine (I hope not): The car is 7th gear at that speed but it usually is anytime above 50 mph so its quite odd. We don't lose power and no lights are set off.
Body work / damage: doesn't appear to be anything on the front or sides of the car that cause this.
Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: General Vehicle Fault - All Warning Light On
Experienced an incredible failure this morning when I went out to start my 2015 2.0t Ultimate. Foot on brake, press start. Engine starts and the car icon in the middle of the instruments shows the system scan. Scan completes and all warning lights stay on. The LCD panel starts to report system after system has failed ... SCC, EPB, FCW, RPD, LDW, a veritable alphabet soup of abbreviations. Put car in gear and pulled out of space to see if that would have any effect. Turning wheel very heavy as if power steering has failed. No effect from moving a few feet. Couldn't get back directly to my parking spot so carefully around the block to get back to my space. Rear view camera came on when in Reverse but it remained on after shifting into Drive.
Back into park. Turned off engine. Tried to restart. No dice, won't even go through the start cycle. just all the warning lights on and LDW Failure on the LCD panel. Arranged a tow to the dealer and when the tow truck arrived we discovered the Electronic Parking Brake had automatically engaged even though I intentionally had left it off and there was no way to release it. Battery appears to have plenty of power so unlikely it is a low battery issue ... the two times it did start it turned over without hesitation. It's behaving as if the computer has been totally scrambled. There used to be a joke around that if Microsoft made cars, all the instruments and warning lights would be replaced by a single big red light in the middle of the dash reading "General Vehicle Fault" and it seems like that's what mine is telling me.
Toyota - Tacoma :: Wobbling In Steering Wheel And Front End In General
I bought new tires for my 2005 Tacoma 4x4 and went up from 265's to 275's with some really nice Pirelli Scorpion ATR's, problem was, I started noticing some serious wobbling in both the steering wheel and the front end in general, it seemed to be at certain speeds. I had done some research online to find that some people had trouble with the balancing on those Scorpions so I naturally thought they needed to be rebalanced. But balance after balance, nothing seemed to improve. In total I went in for balancing 6 times! Even went to different places to make sure I didn't get a machine that was somehow calibrated wrong. I also took it in to the dealer and had them look at everything to make sure all was well with the truck, they said everything looked fine.
So my frustration finally came to a head last month when after another balancing the wobble was still there, and I decided to change out the tires thinking I just got a bad set. I test drove the truck right after changing the tires and could feel a little wobble so I took it back and they re-did the balance. Sadly that was rush hour and I couldn't get up to the speeds that I normally felt the wobble. (usually between 55-65mph) The day after switching the tires, (new tires are back to 265's Falken Ziex all season). At first I thought the wobbling was speed dependent; BUT after setting the cruise control on the open road at 72mph I started to notice that the wobble would come and go seemingly at random. I started thinking that it may be the road surface but put that theory to rest when I felt the wobble on brand new paving (yes, believe it! The wobble just seems to come and go even at the same speed and on seemingly similar surfaces. It's driving me crazy! I have to believe it's not the tires that are causing this, but since the dealer can't seem to reproduce the problem when they test drive.
So to summarize; the problem seemed to start when I got new tires a year ago, rebalancing 6 times did not solve the problem, put new tires on and still getting the wobble. It doesn't seem to be as dependent on speed or surface, although the worst of it happens in the 55-65mph range. (If I go faster it seems to smooth out, but we're talking 75+) The wobbling is felt and seen in the steering wheel and the front end of the truck. (my gut tells me it's coming from the front right of the vehicle). I even had them do an alignment so it's not that either.
Ford - Focus :: 2007 - Clutch Is Stiff / Shifting In General Felt Off
This morning I tried to put my car into reverse and I literally had to force it. It didn't grind or anything, no funny sounds that I have heard, just didn't want to go. It also felt like shifting was kind of "stiff" or tight... The car has 76K on it and I've never replaced the clutch, so it might just be due, but it kind of happened out of the blue. After the first incident of the reverse not cooperating, I didn't have any problems for the rest of the day, but shifting in general still kinda felt off... A coworker said that basically means I'll need a new clutch within a few weeks.
Is it just time for a new clutch? Or is there something I can do? And, so I don't get taken for everything, how to present this problem to my mechanic? I trust them, but I want to be as informed as possible when I go in to talk to them.