Passat (B5) :: Car Grumbling, Chokes And Then Roughly Starts In The Morning

My 2001.5 Passat, 143,000 miles, has a problem which has me stumped. In the morning it won't catch. Starter turns over fine. Have to pump gas a bit. After 7 or 8 attempts, it (grumbling) coughs, chokes and then roughly starts. If I let it sit for a few minutes, it smooths out. After that, I have no trouble starting up the rest of the day, and engine runs smoothly and quietly. One buddy sez its the fuel pump; buddy #2 sez its the MAF filter; #3 sez its a sensor or maybe gummed up fuel injection. I used injector cleaner, but it hasn't worked.

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Kia - Rio :: 2005 - Car Starts Roughly - Idles Horribly For A Few Seconds - Dies

It's a 05 Kia Rio. I've recently put a bit of work into it due to a few issues which were fuel related, namely replacing the fuel filter/pump. It also has brand new spark plugs. That solved the issue that originally put it on blocks for a few months and it ran fine for the past few weeks.

Today I went outside to drive to work and got the symptoms in the title. I know it's not a spark issue because it does start, and I used it on accessory to air up my tires this morning.

I'm just not sure where to go next. I've done a bit of searching and have found recommendations for checking the grounds and the distributor cap.

While running at rough idle, depressing the accelerator makes it die faster, rather than keeping it running. It rained last night and this morning. It's about 70 outside instead of the 80-90 it's been the last few weeks. No check engine light, but I've only tried to start it about 10 times.

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Chevrolet - Lumina :: Battery Draining - After Oil Change Car Won't Starts / Runs Roughly

My 99 Lumina's battery would drain after 36-48 of just sitting (12-24 before replacing the battery.) I had tried somethings did research and had no luck. In January this year I got an oil change at a jiffy lube type place. They removed something by the spark-plug wires right at the bottom edge of the windshield. When I tried to start it the car engine it jerked, shook, and didn't start. They did something in that same spot then it started right up.To my surprise the battery didn't drain any more!! Then 2 weeks later it started running rough when I slowed down, started to die, was very hard to start, then ran very rough, next I had to step on the gas and ride the brake for 4 blocks then it died in my driveway. That all happened over 15 miles wile in traffic. I tried to start it many times with no luck. The battery was fine after 4+ months of sitting.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Engine Starts To Run Very Roughly Then Will Die

I have a 2002 F-450 crew cab 2wd automatic 7.3 diesel with 298k on the body and about 120k on a Jasper engine. About a month ago I started it in the morning to let it warm up. Went to make coffee. Came back and it had died. It was low on fuel and I didn't pay attention. Played hell getting it primed back up. Now if I don't let it warm up for twenty minutes it won't run worth a flip and has been dying out. Changed fuel filter. Unplugged ICP. No change. When I crank it it will turn over for about thirty seconds then oil pressure gauge moves, then engine starts to run very roughly. It will die. I repeat a few times. It will eventually start and start and stay running. Blows whitish grey smoke until it warms up. No loss in power till CEL comes on. Still not too much loss. Sometimes it takes a long time to get it running. Sometimes it will die after I get out of the driveway if I don't let it warm up. Truck was serviced maybe 3000 miles ago. No water in fuel. New fuel filter. New air filter. It is a company truck. I work for a small company building cell towers.

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Celica :: Toyota 2000 GT - Engine Starts And Runs Roughly / Can't Change The Gear

Toyota celica 2000 GT automatic, has a problem on cold start, especially when the temperature is below 32 degree Fahrenheit. The engine starts and runs roughly, but most electrical devices do not work, the dashboard and car windows are power off and I can't change the gear so it can not move. Only after warming up for about 10 minutes then the dashboard will work, then everything is fine till the next morning. I sent it to a small garage but they found nothing.

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Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Slight Squealing From Rear Tire Starts After Roughly 10 Minutes Of Driving

I have a 2007 Santa Fe GLS AWD that has a rear driver side tire problem. It starts after roughly 10 minutes of driving as a slight squeal. It starts at around 20mph and will quit when I reach 40mph. The longer I drive, the louder it gets to a point where it is almost constant between 20-40mph. It stops when I apply the brakes or when I turn slightly to the left or right. Also, if I stop and turn the car off it takes 5-10 minutes for the squealing to start again. There is a smell of hot metal and sweet smell coming from the area.

I had the rear brakes and rotors replaced 12,000 miles ago, and them checked at my local Hyundai dealer when I first noticed the squeal and the mechanic said the brakes and rotors in the rear did not need replacing. What it could be?

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Turn Over For 30 Seconds After Cranking / Engine Starts To Run Roughly Then Die

I have a 2002 F-450 crew cab 2wd automatic 7.3 diesel with 298k on the body and about 120k on a Jasper engine. About a month ago I started it in the morning to let it warm up. Went to make coffee. Came back and it had died. It was low on fuel and I didn't pay attention. Played hell getting it primed back up. Now if I don't let it warm up for twenty minutes it won't run worth a flip and has been dying out. Changed fuel filter. Unplugged ICP. No change. When I crank it it will turn over for about thirty seconds then oil pressure gauge moves, then engine starts to run very roughly. It will die. I repeat a few times. It will eventually start and start and stay running. Blows whitish grey smoke until it warms up. No loss in power till CEL comes on. Still not too much loss. Sometimes it takes a long time to get it running. Sometimes it will die after I get out of the driveway if I don't let it warm up. Truck was serviced maybe 3000 miles ago. No water in fuel. New fuel filter. New air filter. It is a company truck. I work for a small company building cell towers.

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Golf/GTI VI :: 2010 - EPC Light And CEL Are On / Idles Roughly?

I own a 2010 Seat Leon 1.4 TSI 125hp 6 speed manual with 20000km (same engine, transmission, electronics as a Golf - 1.4TSI 123hp or Audi A3 - 1.4TSI 125hp, in North America you can consider it a poor mans VW or Audi, i prefer Audi LOL).

Ever so often maybe once a month when the engine is cold (usually during cold weather and in the morning) the following happens:

I crank the engine and get a really rough idle that's about 300-500rpm... the engine struggles and then shuts off after about 5-10 seconds and while this is happening the CEL an EPC light are on. after the engine turns off by its self, the next time I start the engine it works perfectly.

I have taken the car to a certified VW workshop since its under warranty (4 years) several times and they have found no fault codes. The second time I took the car they flashed the ECU to the newest software. The other day (Fourth time) after the above happened again.. they hooked up the car to the diagnostics tool in front of me to prove there are no fault codes stored. I left the car for testing and they came up with nothing.

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: While Driving Air Comes From Hose - Run Roughly And Miss

So I had a hose come apart that is located under the intake manifold on my 1.8t. It's some type of air hose because I can hear and feel the air coming out when the car is running, and it's also making my car run rough and miss, mostly at idle.

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: When Startup It Often Dies Soon After And Idle Really Roughly Until Warm Up

I have a 1999.5 jetta vr6, the CEL is on (p0102 MAF sensor circuit low or something like that...). When i start it up, it often dies really soon after and until its warm it will idle really roughly. I'll have to start it up between 5 and 15 times... Once its warm and about 190 F oil temp it runs just fine, but still has a slightly rough idle.

I have a new MAF sensor coming in, or if there are any other things i should check that might contribute to the problem.

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2005 - Won't Go In Reverse At Cold / Shifts Roughly From 1st To 2nd?

Just bought a 2005 Jetta 2.0 4 speed automatic (non tiptronic) with 92,000 miles. This is the old 1999-2005 style, not the New Jetta that was introduced that year.

I've done research and have found that the transmissions on these bodied Jettas seem to be acting up.

This one shifts fine with a few weird things. When I start the car cold (this is in LA, so even over night the temps don't go below 60), and I put it in reverse, the car does not go into reverse for a good 3-5 seconds. This does not happen after the car has been driven for a while. After that it shifts fine, no delay.

The other symptom is sometimes the shifts from 1st to 2nd gear are a bit rough, with a thump sound, but nothing too out of the ordinary...if it wasn't for the other mentioned problem above, I wouldn't think twice about the 1st to 2nd shift as many automatic cars have some rough shifts. All the other gears shift fine.

I've done the basic research to know there could be a couple things causing this such as clutch piston seals and excessive drainback. I want some more info since I know there are my experienced people on this forum. Should I be worried and are there any things I should do immediately?

I have also found that these transmissions are sealed and can not be checked for oil levels with out taking to expert shop. I've also seen that they are very sensitive to overfill and any service needs to be performed by experts. Should I just continue and come back to this if symptoms get worse?

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Golf V R32 :: Extremely Jerky Start Up In First Gear When Very Hot Out And Engine Warmed Up

I need to have my DSG checked out.. Extremely jerky starting out in first gear when very hot out and engine warmed up --most noticeable when just easy on the accelerator. Need to get the ok for mechanotronic replacement. Who to trust for a reliable job and evaluation of the problem.

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Golf/GTI VI :: 2011 - Extremely Hard To Get Into Either Reverse - Squeaking While Clutched?

I have a 2011 GTI with ~23k miles on it, manual trans. Bought it CPO this year. Recently, I have had an extremely hard time getting the car into either reverse or first. It only happens randomly. It often takes a few times to finally get it to click. Other times I think it is in gear only to let off the clutch and hear the gears grind.

Next, when it is cold, it is squeaking when I lift off the clutch just before the gear engages. Again, it is totally random. It may go an entire week without doing it, and then one day start.

I have read all over these forums that this is likely a linkage issue with the difficulty shifting and a TOB issue with the squeaking on the clutch liftoff.

I am taking the car into the dealer tomorrow (still under CPO warranty). I called a local, and extremely well respected, Euro repair shop and he said it sounded like a classic pilot brushing problem. When I looked online, it says that the manual GTIs don't have pilot brushings... Is this correct?

Additionally, what do I need to expect from the dealer? I've read horror stories about the dealers tearing down the clutch (~10hr job) to get inside and replace something only to say that there is "wear and tear" and that the job isn't covered under warranty. Additionally, I know I won't be able to replicate the sound tomorrow when I bring it in. Nor will I be able to replicate the difficulty getting the car into gear. Short of leaving the car with them for 3 weeks and having them try it every few hours, they won't see what I am talking about.

My question at this point is, does a bad TOB cause any long term problems, or is it just an occasional annoyance with the sound? And what specifically should I tell the dealer about the difficulty shifting to get them to do something about it?

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Golf/GTI VI :: Footwell Lights Got Extremely Bright For A Split Second Occasionally

I was driving home last night and within the 30 min trip, my footwell lights got extremely bright for a split second on two occasions? Not sure whats going on here.......

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Golf/GTI VI :: Extremely Rough Idle And Engine Stall With Clutch Depressed

This morning when I started my car the RPMs were all over the place. The engine would rev to just below 2k and then drop, as it it were gonna die and right before it did, it would rev back up. Then, when I tried to move it, it would not accelerate and would hardly move and while coasting it dies if the clutch is depressed. The car does not die when idling (albeit a very rough idle) but it does when it is moving.

It flashed a check engine for a few seconds at one point but went away and has not come back on. I am running APR Stg 1 and a Carbonio intake. I switched from 93 octane mode to stock and nothing changed.

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Golf V R32 :: When Turn The Key Extremely Long Crank To Turn Over?

so all of a sudden when I turn the key it seems to have an extremely long crank to turn over, almost like im holding it down to long, i can turn it quick and let it go and it will catch, hold it longer than normal and let it go and it will still catch...took it to the dealer and had them scan the car but there are no codes/faults coming up......its been doing it for a week now and today it won't start at all, it just keeps on cranking but won't turn over but yet I still have codes or faults....battery is good cuz I had it tested as well.

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Golf IV R32 :: Starts On Second Turn Of Key

Had to replaced the fuel pump on the R. Car started fine on initial start after completing the job.. Now every time I get in to start, it wont start on initial turn of key, it always starts on second try. The car is apr chipped, with no other mods. it will occasionally start on the first key turn.

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Golf/GTI VI :: Starts But Won't Accelerate

My car will start but wont accelerate and when I disconnect the gas pedal it red lines i replaced the pedal but still same issue throttle body was replaced too.

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Golf IV R32 :: Alarm Just Starts Going Off Randomly

I have the car in storage for the winter, and from time to time i will go out and start it. I also hook up one of those automatic battery tenders every so often to make sure that my battery doesn't die completely. I bought the car about 3 months ago, and when i bought it, i could tell within seconds that the car needed a new battery. I will buy one and install it as soon as i am ready to start driving it again. So thats the background story.

My problem is this.... for some reason, with no regularity, the alarm just starts going off. Sometimes it will go off shortly after i ran the car, sometimes it will go off when the car has been completely undisturbed for days. Im wondering what is causing this. I have read things about the sensors having trouble with moisture, but i don't think that is the problem because it has been inside the garage for over 2 months.

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