Ram / SRT10 :: 2001 Starts Fine Then Dies At Idle And Runs Rough On Gear Till 1000 Rpm

Starts fine. Runs fine till warmed up. Then dies at idle and runs rough on gear till 1000 rpm. Has only coded iac when unplugged. But would idle with it unplugged. I replaced it. Also got crank can code once while checking it ...

2001 dodge ram 1500 318 engine ....

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Golf V R32 :: Idle At Around 1000 Rpm When Stopped At Red Light

When stopped at a stop light or sign my car will start to idle at around 1000rpm. This problem is intermittent and does not seem to change with water temperature (ie. being warmed up).

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Golf V R32 :: VR6 Rough / Lumpy Idle - Whole Car Shakes When Rev It To 1000 To 1100 Rpm

Audi A3 3.2 owner here from Fortitude and have rough / lumpy idle issues? While at a stop in neutral w/a cold or warm engine, it seems a little rougher than one would expect. If you rev it to 1000-1100 rpm the whole car shakes.

Engine Mounts worn?

APR Software causation?

Cam Followers or faulty coils?

Do I need a heavier duty front and top engine mount?

Wondering if CAI and Exhaust along w/ the APR ECU tune is causing it or if I'm just being paranoid.

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Golf IV R32 :: After Jump Start Car Now Revs At Idle - ESP And MIL On

My mechanic and friend noticed my axle was starting to fail about a few weeks ago and Ive just been waiting to get it taken care of when I have time. Last night my battery died and I got a jump start. After the jump I get in and drive down the street a little ways and notice the ESP light came on. She was also running a little rough at idle and I started getting nervous. So instead of getting my Micky Dees I turned around and went home. Of coarse this happens at 3am the night before I have to open up at work at 11.. This mourning I get in the car and warm her up to see how shes acting. I decided to still drive her because I had no other option. The MIL light popped on now too and I think its related to my axle failing. So im wondering I guess how much longer I have til this thing completely goes and what would happen if it went while I was driving? Ive never had to replace an axle before or and an issue with one so this is a subject I know very little about. Also is it worth it to get RAXLES for stock?

So after my battery died like I said I got a jump start from my buddy and after I jumped it the car seems to rev at idle now. Freaked me out! Would all the sudden start revving to 2k rpm and then stop. When I drove it to work almost every time I stopped it would rev a little bit but when I gas it it would stop. After doing research there are a few conclusions I have reached. First I read it could be a throttle body sticking? Then I read the jump start could have fried my ecu or it could be a simple as a loose wire to the motor from a bypass valve?

Im not sure if the jump start did anything bad. Its possible its a coincidence still but my car was fine before the jump. Also on a side note my ecu was already flashed when I purchased the car. The flash is from EIP I believe because there is a eip sticker on the battery case. Personally I think the MIL light is related to the axle but the weird idling is what scares me.

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Bmw - 318 :: Missing And Tachometer Starts To Jump

I have a 1984 BMW 318i. When it gets to 3.5-4K rpm, it starts to miss and the tachometer starts to jump. What's wrong with it?

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Passat (B5) :: 99 V6 Starts To Flutter And RPMs Jump Up And Down

I have a 99 V6 original owner with 177,000 miles. The car has all the usual work done for its age and miles with one cam tensioner and associate seals, gaskets, water pump, etc.... Getting some burn oil smell and believe the other tensioner is starting to leak but it's not bad. Replacement of the cracked AC coil was difficult...

Lately when the car is in higher gears, light load, and RMPs around 1,400 to 1,800, the car starts to flutter and the rmps jump up and down a couple of hundred and you feel the car lurch a bit. It's not harsh. Feels like a miss but you don't feel much engine jump or knock. Under hard acceleration, the RMPs are smooth and no lurching.

When I back off down to 1,400 or 1,500 and accelerate easy, the problem returns. Sometimes I feel it up at 3,000 but not as pronounced. The car is not throwing codes.

All ignition components are fresh in the last year with wires, pugs, etc... I still need to get this car to 250K...

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Prius (Gen 3) :: 12v Battery Keeps Losing Power Requiring Jump Starts

Multi information display is not working. Also the 12v battery keeps losing power requiring jump starts.

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Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Jump Starts - Alternator / Battery?

My X keeps needing to be jumped and after being jumped it runs like a top as usual. Took it to Autozone and had them hookup their little portable doohikie and told me the battery is fine but the alternator should be pushing out 14a and it's only pushing 13? Didn't realize 1aI made that big of difference but whatever. I am taking the alternator off in a few minutes and I'm gonna have it bench tested to confirm the output.

Is there a heavier duty alt that I can get? I will be pulling an RV before too long so I'd like to get one that's gonna last. Btw, 2000 excursion limited v10 gas 6.8...

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Golf IV R32 :: Car Starts Fine But Idle For Seconds And Then Just Bog Out

I've been having some issues with my mk4 R32. Right now i'm leaning toward changing the fuel pump and filter but i want to be sure before i do.....

Problem: I've been daily driving my r32 to work for the past couple weeks and about once a week it will start, idle for a couple seconds and then just bog out and die. no codes, just idle, then chugging and dying. it will fire with some starter fluid and will sometimes hold a very sickly idle but most the time will just run the starter fluid out. the weird thing is is that it's intermittent and will happen randomly and if i leave it overnight or sitting for a couple hours it will fire up like nothing was wrong. i just wanted some input on what it might be before i replace the pump. i have already done the relay so its not that.... the only code that it has ever thrown while i have owned it was for the intake changeover valve (N156) which i cleared and it hasnt yet to come up again.....

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Battery Keeps Dying / Starts Up Easily With A Jump And Then Works Fine For A While

I have a 2004 Ford F150 and the battery keeps dying. We do not use the truck a lot and it sometimes sits outside for 2-4 weeks without being used. If it sits that long, it might be completely dead, but starts up easily with a jump and then works fine for a while. The battery is a 650 amp Motocraft w prorated replacement from 37-100 mo. The local Ford dealer has checked it several times in the past 2 yr and said it is fine, and that if the truck sits for a couple of weeks the battery will die. Is that right? I am not a car moron, nor am I an expert, but I am concerned that they are missing a small draw somewhere in the system. Should I be concerned about a draw or is this just something that happens to batteries as they get older?

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Golf/GTI VI :: 2012 - Starts / Rough Idle Then Dies

I bought a 2012 GTI with 6-speed manual two weeks ago. It has ~42k miles and it has been running great for the past 2 weeks until tonight. Went with my wife and son to the store and then the problems started. We got in the car to leave, it started fine, but died suddenly a few seconds later at idle when we were trying to get my son buckled in. I thought maybe I did something odd and it was me, so I turned the key off and tried to start again. It was a rough start(took a second) then idled roughly under 1k rpm and died shortly after. I tried one more time, same thing. There were no CELs at all, just the battery light after it died like normal.

At this point I'm thinking it may be that the timing chain tensioner gave out and that's the problem, so I decide to get a ride back to the house for my laptop and Vag-Com before trying to start or run it anymore. I get a ride, grab those, and head back to the car. When I get back in the car I realized my laptop battery was dead, so I decided to try to start it one more time. This time is starts just fine and I'm able to drive home without any trouble at all. No hick-ups, no stalls, no low-idle or anything. I was able to run the Vag-Com Auto Scan on my other laptop at the house and will have the readout below.

The only code thrown was on the immobilizer at 69157km which would have been when I had a replacement key cut and coded at the dealership I bought it from(a local VW dealer). I ran this scan with the key on but engine off and after realizing it wasn't giving me any codes at all I decided to run the scan with the engine running. Well, when I tried to start the car to run the scan, it died on me at idle again. So I left the key on(after the car died) and ran the scan and got the same results as below. I was then again able to start the car and drive it around the block and then park with it idling without any problems at all.

I don't understand this at all. The car has been running perfectly until now for as long as I've had it. I just changed the oil and filter this past weekend for Mobil 1 0w50 and OEM filter. And I've only run 93 octane in it, which it currently has a 7/8 full tank. I'll be calling/going by the dealership tomorrow to try and sort this out.

- I just ran VCDS data logging on the fuel system while trying to start my car just now (after sitting for ~30 minutes)
- While running I watched 106 Fuel Rail Pressure - Actual drop from ~40bar down to 6.5bar
- I was able to tap the accelerator peddle and it jumped back up to ~40bar
- After evening back out and not stalling again, I ran Autoscan and came up with:

000135 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure
P0087 - 000 - Too Low - Intermittent

I went ahead and ordered a new fuel pump and seal and received them this afternoon. I've already replaced the pump and have driven around a good bit this afternoon to test things. One of the big things I've noticed is that even though I still have the rear seat bottom out of the car, I can barely hear the new pump, where as the old one was noticeable. I'll update again if I run into any other issues.

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Tiguan :: High Idle (1000 RPMs) With AC On?

2012 SEL... Experiencing High Idle (1000 rpms) when the AC is ON. When I power the AC system OFF... the idle comes down to 700-800rpms. Then I power the AC back ON and it stays for the rest of my trip. Restart the car, and it's back to 1000 rpms with the AC on.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F250 V10 Only Starts When Jump Start Relay

Truck was dead- 2001 F250 V10... Has a starter relay (solinoid) behind battery... put a new relay in there- no go- cleaner terminals... then I put key in start and shorted the 2 terminals in the relay and she cranked right up. That would mean the starter is still good correct?? something in the ignition system?

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Bmw - 325 :: Occasional Surging Idle / Engine Will Rev Between 500 And 1000 RPMs

My 2001 BMW 325Ci has an occasional "surging" idle problem. When coming to a stop or at idle, the engine will rev between 500 and 1000 rpm's. Sometimes it will correct the problem and idle normally, or keeps surging until it eventually stalls. When restarted it works fine. Tried fuel injector treatment, fuel stabilizer treatment, and replaced thermostat. Still surges about 50% of the time. Had it to a dealer, and computer says its running fine.

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Camry :: 2002 Started Dying At A Stop And Would Not Idle Above 1000 RPM

My 02 camry recently started dying at a stop and would not idle above 1000 rpm. I cleaned the throttle body(very dirty) and the car started right up idling at about 1500-2000 rpm i walked away for a minute and came by to drive it and no acceleration would come as well as when i start it up now it just goes back to idle at about 500 rpm.

I am not sure what the problem may be, my air filter box is not on properly I am going back to the car to tighten it down today but i highly doubt it will fix anything. I also read something about the computer needing reset, if i go and unhook the batter for 30 min and hook it back up will the computer reset and possibly fix my acceleration problem?

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Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Rough Idle Under 1000 RPM - Sputtering Backfire

2003 Elantra gt 90,0000 miles manual transmission. Rough idle under 1000 rpm it smooths out completely above 1000 rpm.

Also the engine makes a ticking noise from a cold start up. It stops making the ticking noise after 1500rpm or when the engine warms up.

Occasionally the car has a sputtering backfire. This happens when I park the car after being on the highway.

Replaced the plugs, wires, and the pcv valve. Dropped the oil pan and it and the oil pump pick up screen were clean.

The only check engine light to come on was for the speed sensor. It has since gone out on it's own.

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GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Idle Fluctuates From Almost Stalling To 1000 RPMs

I have a pretty bad flex pipe leak on my 20th. Would this leak cause a very rough idle almost stalling when I come to a complete stop. The Idle fluctuates from almost stalling to 1000rpms.

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Stalling - Mazda - Mazda6 :: 2006 - Run Rough And Idle At 1000 RPM?

I have a 2005 Mazda 6. When it is cold - I start the vehicle & begin to drive. When I slow down and the RPMS get around 1000 - the car begins to run really rough & try to stall. If I put my foot on the gas - I can usually prevent it from stalling. The problem disappears once the car gets warm. The dealership recalibrated the PCM based on a Mazda Alert. However, it has not corrected the issue. Looking for thoughts on what could be causing this?

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Ford - Gasoline - Pump - Mustang :: Idle Will Sometimes Get Really Low (below 1000 RPM) And Stall Out

When my 1998 Mustang has been stopped and started numerous times in a short period--say, like when you're running errands--the idle will sometimes (not always!) get really low (below 1000 RPM), and will stall out no matter how much gas you give it. It will then refuse to start for about 30 minutes. Then it'll start back up and run fine for another week until the whole thing happens again. The car runs fine in all other respects, and again, it's seemingly random, and only after the engine has been stopped and started several times. It won't for example, stall out first thing in the morning.

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