Golf/GTI VI :: Comparison Between H&R And OEM Front Swaybar
Since i bagged my car and i didn't bought the swaybar end links to fix it it to my air struts, when i got it installed the swaybar got removed.
Now as my swaybar is off i might upgrade, my question is, Is an h&r front swaybar much better than an OEM one, and if yes should i pick a 26 or 28 mm o e (what's the difference, pipe size?)
Golf IV R32 :: Front Swaybar Hitting Axle After Lowering
I just installed some Neuspeed sport springs with Koni sport shocks on my .:R and it appears like my swaybar is knocking against my front axle on the driver side.
Now, I read somewhere that is not supposed to be possible, but I can see the marks on the axle. Also, the swaybar link looks like it is twisted quite a bit with the new struts. And, when I look at them with the car on the ground, the distance between the swaybar and the axle looks to be at least 2 inches.
Do I need to center the swaybar? Maybe my control arm bushings are worn out really bad? The camber on the front of my car is -1.4 on both sides.
Golf V R32 :: Popping Out The Rear Reflectors?
How to pop out the rear reflectors on the bumper?
View 17 RepliesGolf IV R32 :: 2004 - Loud Popping From Rear?
I bought a 2004 R32 in July. On mornings after it rains overnight or has been particularly humid I get a horrible popping sound when I drive forward or backwards. It is a reasonably slow sound only loosely tied to vehicle speed in a straight line. When turning it is very rapid which made me originally suspect the differential. Removing the Haldex fuse, turning off traction control, and dragging the brake pedal have no effect. Dragging the e-brake seems to stop it until I release it.
The only thing that fixes it is leaving the car running for a little bit. Sometimes it is 2 minutes, other times it might be 5 minutes. Monday when it did it I pulled over a little way from my house and waited. I heard the pop with the car out of gear and parked on level ground not moving. I started driving immediately and there were no more problems. This is the only time I heard something when it "fixed" itself. The popping sound is somewhat like a bad CV joint when you turn the wheel tightly.
The car will go a couple weeks without this happening if it is dry out. I have had a bunch of quattros, but this is my first Haldex which is why I suspect it. I have pulled codes and get nothing for the Haldex. When it is working it behaves perfectly. What to try? Alsobhow water got in my Haldex in the first place to make the milkshake? I am concerned it will happen again. The previous owner had it changed at the dealer in 2013.
Golf/GTI VI :: 2012 - Rear Popping / Clunking Sound
I have a 2012 GT lowered on st coil overs. I'm getting a popping/clunking sound coming from the rear. It happens at random times. In turns, going over bumps, straight, and on flat surfaces. I thought it might be the dreaded subframe clunk so I got the Tyrol sport deadset rigid kit and that didn't work. I have tried raising and lowering the car with the coil over adjustments and it makes the noise still. I have also taken the rear coil overs completely off two times to inspect them and all mounts both times using new bolts and retorqued to spec. Also while i had them off I have jerked and pushed on everything they are attached to see if there is any play in anything. I see no signs of anything bumping or rubbing under the back end and the sound is getting worse.
View 4 RepliesGolf IV R32 :: 2004 - Popping Noise From The Rear And Sometimes Front
I've had my car for 7 years now and it's a love / hate relationship. I probably put more money in maintaining the car than upgrades. So, I have the kw club sports, front and rear neuspeed sway bars, neuspeed front strut bar, and neuspeed control arms. I lost track of how long its been since I've been hearing this popping noise but it occurs almost every time i leave my drive way.
The drive way is not flat. It dips down then comes up to the street. When reversing two tires come of ground, the front left and back right. When that happens, something pops from the rear... Recently it has come to the point when i take a right turn, i hear a pop from the rear.(not all the time). I told my mechanic to check the sway bar bushings but apparently that not the problem. Suspension shocks and springs are fine.
Golf IV R32 :: Popping Noise Coming From The Rear End Or Drive Shaft
so my r32 recently started making a nasty popping noise. the sound seems to either be coming from something in the rear end or drive shaft. not sure why it happened. i went on a 2 hour trip. got there parked it. aired it down (bags) but then when i came back and when to drive it again. it all of a sudden it started making a horrible popping noise. i thought it was the front wheel bearing going out since i knew it need to be replaced but i did that today and its still making the noise.
The noise sound just like a RWD car with a welded diff when it turns. kinda has that locked rear end hop popping noise. i lifted the whole car off the ground and put it in first to let the tires spin in the air but of course theres no weight on them so it doesn't make any noise. i'm really stumped on what it could be. im going to take the driveshaft off and see if it still dose it. then i know its for sure in the rear end. What it could be?
Golf VI R :: Popping Noise In Left Rear Suspension When Going Up Driveway At Certain Angles
I installed KW V3 coilovers back in October. About a week ago I started getting a popping noise in the left rear suspension when going over speed bumps or up my driveway from the street at certain angles. I could not find any evidence of the springs binding, but did notice that there was some separation of rubber around the plastic center of the rubber mount beneath the spring. This likely the problem or loose sub frame bolts?
View 1 RepliesGolf/GTI VII :: Irritating Popping Noise At No Particular Speed, Coming From Middle / Rear
So I have a 2015 SE DSG. I'm getting the irritating popping noise, at no particular speed, coming from what sounds to be the middle/rear. It is lowered on H&R coilover, which I have checked over and over again to make sure everything is tight. It started about 500 miles ago, and the Coilovers have been on for about 6000 miles, the car just hit 7000 miles.
View 1 RepliesCivic - Honda :: 2005 - Scary Unintended Acceleration
I have a scary problem with my 2005 Civic Coupe HX CVT that the dealer can't resolve - my car drives forward and even accelerates when my foot's not on the gas! This is a recipe for disaster, especially since I live in a cold climate and there's so much ice and snow in winter.
I thought at first I must be crazy. So I've tested it by taking my foot off the gas going up a small incline, and Voila! It drives up the hill! It also can drive around the block by itself! It's like the energizer bunny, and I'm scared to drive it anymore.
The dealer has no clue why this is happening and can't seem to replicate the problem. I've brought it in more than once, too.
It happens most often when my car's been parked for awhile, say 6 hours or more, and if it's really cold outside, say less than 32 degrees outside. Also the heater's usually on when it happens, but that may be incidental since it's usually cold when the problem occurs...
Also, There's a whine that sounds like a belt that gets loud when the air conditioner runs and also if it's really rainy. I've taken it in to the dealer a couple different times and they fix it, but then the sound comes back again. Could this be related?
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Scary Clunk In Drivetrain When Take Foot Off The Accelerator
I have a 2001 F250 7.3 with 175K.
Here is the situation. There is a disturbing clunk when I take my foot off the accelerator and a corresponding clunk when I push back down on the accelerator. This only occurs when the vehicle is not under load. That is, it does not happen when going up hill or on any sort of an incline. It does not happen when the automatic transmission shifts. It does not happen shifting into reverse or drive.
It does not happen when starting or stopping. It only happens when I am at 40-60, or so, miles an hour and let off the accelerator and/or press the accelerator again. It appears that I can carefully feather the accelerator to eliminate or, at least, minimize the clunk. I have crawled under the truck and it looks like all the U-joints are tight, I have lubricated the slip-yoke (although when twisted there is, like a mm of play when this is twisted, not much but a very little).
The rear-differential pinion appears to be tight (no side-to-side play or up-and-down play, or at least I can't make it move with my hands). However, when the truck is in neutral the entire driveshaft is able to rotate a half inch, or so, all the way up and down the drive train. That is, the transfer case and the rear differential appear to have a little rotational play in them, but I am guessing this is pretty normal. When in park the entire driveline seems solid.
I have seen from some of the other posts that this sort of clunking can come from leaf springs, hangers and such but since this clunk seems so isolated to acceleration changes when the vehicle is not under load, I doesn't seem like this would be the issue. No clunk when shifting, turning, bumps etc. Everything seems perfect until I am on a gentle downhill or flat and let off the accelerator. Doesn't appear to clunk when going down a steeper decline. All this gets me to thinking that the clunk is caused whenever the driveshaft rotation gets ahead of or behind the rotation in the rear differential.
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Driver Side Rear Brakes Making Popping Noise - Bad Rotors / Rear Wheel Bearings?
99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: HPO Torque Spec And Front Swaybar Bushing Replacement?
I'm working on a couple of repairs and have encountered a few questions:
1. Are the bolts supposed to come out of the top of the end link? Mine don't so I don't know if that's the way it is or mine are so far gone that they are frozen in the sleeve. My poly bushing kit does not have any new bolts so I'm hesitant to lay into it with a 10 ton press and ruin the bolts (I don't know how much they are from Ford to buy or if I can even buy them).
2. HPO rail plug. I'm removing my HPX as I'm tired of it leaking (hopefully when my HPOP comes back as a T500 I won't need it anyway). I've seen 33 ft-lbs and 96 ft-lbs. As I go towards the 96 ft-lbs it feels like I'm going to strip the threads out so I backed off and they are at 33 ft-lbs now (I don't need that headache and my wife would go through the roof). I got the ones from Riffraff as I misplaced the ones I took off 8 years ago (go figure). The HPO line connections to the head (or pump for the matter) are 19 ft-lbs. I use Loc-Tite on those but both have an o-ring (which provides most of the seal) so I'm not to keen on gronking the rail plug.
3. I'm also replacing both HPOP gaskets. I know that the HPOP and reservoir mounting bolts are 18 ft-lbs (from Ziggy. in the tech sticky) but is there a spec for the cover bolts too? I know the gasket provides the seal but I'd like to make sure that the force is distributed evenly across the gasket (Sous isn't the only OCD person around).
Hopefully this fixes most to all my oil leaks (still have to tackle the oil cooler). The valley is covered (as well as the front of the reservoir) and there is a lot of weepage on the paper towel test. There are years of buildup everywhere and will take a few tries and several cases of Simple Green to see the metal again.
Touareg :: Roof Interior Popping / Squeaking In Cold Weather
As it's gotten colder, I've noticed my roof interior seems to be popping/squeaking, like really cold plastic shifting - hard to explain but when it's warmer, say > 40, I don't have it at all.
View 12 RepliesAustin - Healey :: 1965 - Popping / Backfire Noise When Engine Is Cold
I have a newly rebuilt engine on my 1965 Austin Healey 3000. When the engine is cold it makes a popping/backfire noise. After the engine has warmed up for 10-15 minutes, it doesn't make the noise anymore. See this video [URL] .....
View 7 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2002 - Popping Noise And AC Immediately Stopped Being Cold
The other day I was leaving work and I switched on the ac. I heard an audible popping noise and the air immediately stopped being cold. I pulled over and popped the hood, it smelled like freon and I'm sure it was mixed with compressor oil as there is oil stains all around the compressor now. Did I blow my compressor? Is there a blow off valve that could have been tripped? The compressor is not kicking on now, I don't know if it is blown or this is due to all the freon spraying out? It had been squealing on startup for a little while, I assumed it was a belt.... 2002 echo....
View 4 RepliesLexus LS 2007+ :: Clunk At Rear And Dash Popping
Now that the cold weather is here, I am finding more and more issues. Besides a clunk in the rear that I have to have looked at, I have the dreaded dash popping. I have read to use felt and jam it between the window.
Also it seems like the headliner is popping too? Haven't heard of that. I plan on bringing it to the dealer after the holidays for the rear clunk, but will they fix any of this under platinum warranty?
Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Rear Suspension Popping When Placed In A Bind
I purchased a 2010 Hyundai Blue 6 months ago. After one month of driving the rear suspension area would pop when placed in a bind. The sound will happen when going over a bump, through a dip in the road, when turning sharply..... The pop is more of a large loud twinging sound. I have taken it to the dealership three separate times with no fix.
First time, they stated my license plate was loose and creating the noise. I pulled out at the dealership, and the sound happened again. Took it back and then they stated they heard it, but did not know what it was. Took it a 3rd time, and they informed me they changed the shock on the driver side. The sound is still there. My husband states they lower the exhaust system but did not change the shock.
What this is caused by. I notified the dealer that it was still happening, and they asked me to bring it back and drive around with the tech in the car so they can observe it. Bad part is, it doesn't happen all the time. I can't make it happen. I want my car fixed. I do like it.
Lexus GS 2013+ :: GS350 Popping From Rear When Back Out Of Driveway
My wife has a 2013 GS350.....when she backs out of the driveway, turning at a slight angle...there is a loud pop that sounds like it is coming from the rear. The noise does not repeat during normal driving or going over bumps...just when backing out at an angle to the left. Dealer could not repeat the noise. Almost sounds like the strut brace/bar is loose or something along those lines.
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