Golf VI R :: Clutch At Low RPMs In 5th And 6th At Stage II
Gotta love Turbo weather, but my stock clutch is at its limits. It has never missed a beat rowing through the gears, but I can't roll into 5th and 6th anymore. Car feels considerably faster in the colder weather. May be time for a clutch soon, at 70K anyway.
View 1 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: New OEM Clutch Slipping With APR Stage 1?
So my clutch started to slip in 4th when I first got my apr stage 1 tune at 24k miles. now 600 miles later it's slipping in 3rd. put it back to stock mode and it doesn't slip in any gear.
My question, if I replace my clutch with an OEM sachs what are the chances of it slipping again? From what I understand the golf R uses the same clutch disk and pressure plate as the gti so why is mine slipping so early? luck of the draw?
I prefer oem because it is a lot quieter and I do not plan to mod any further than stage 1. I'm still running the stock airbox.
Golf/GTI VII :: 2016 - Stage 1 Low Output Clutch Slippage
Went APR low output stage 1 on my 2016 GTI PP 6MT W/ Less then 5k miles on it. Clutch immediately started slipping in high torque situations.
View 4 RepliesGolf/GTI VII :: Clutch Slipping / APR Stage 1 - Low To High Output
So I recently got APR stage 1 low output (93 octane v1.2) installed and loving it so far on my '15 GTI. I went with the low output tune after hearing many clutch slipping issues and since this is my daily driver and i need reliability, didn't want to risk it too much. BUT... I am starting to wonder about the regular output. Going low to high, worth it? Seems like a 20-29 hp difference would be a lot. Have the stage 1 regular tune and no clutch slipping issues?
View 24 RepliesGolf VI R :: Stage 2 Sound Vs Stage 1?
Is there a difference in the engine sound between a stage 1 and stage 2? I like my stage 1 with APR intake as it is so I'm concerned I'll be changing it if I go to stage 2 with the intake.
View 15 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: APR Stage 1 - ECU Failure
My Car started then stalled on Christmas. I towed it in to my local dealer to get it fixed.
The service Advisor called back to tell me the ECU was fried and because it was Modded (APR Stage 1) it is not covered by warranty.
2013 GTI DSG APR Stage 1 tune Magnaflow Catback. 18k miles
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: A/C Clutch Not Engaging
My mother In law's a/c is not working. Last year I replaced the compressor, fcm, and pressure sensor and nothing. Well fast forward a year and I'm here again trying to sort it out. I unplugged the connector to the compressor and there is 2 black wires 1 wire has 6 volts (not 12v) and the others reads nothing. When I turn the A/C on the fans do come on.
View 6 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Clutch Is Slipping Bad
So i have a 05 1.8t gti... just bought it about 3 months ago and it has a stage 2 south bend clutch... the car has only 68k on it and the clutch is slipping already... it was driving fine then about a week ago all hell broke loose and it's slipping bad... now for my question what performance clutch is recommended? I have a giac tune and its pushing about 21 boost... . would a 2.0 performance clutch work on the 1.8t?..
View 12 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: AC Clutch Not Engaging
Driving home yesterday and the ac wouldnt come on my 2003 golf. Worked fine day before. All fuses are fine. Small fan works but large one needs to be replaced but its been that way. Ac button works fine too. What else would cause the clutch to not engage? I believe the pressure is fine as it worked fine the day before.
View 3 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: How APR ECU System Works Between Stage 1 And 2
I talked to the tuning shop and they said its 700 for everything canadian of course and he said its about 250 hp with stage 1 and he said stage 2 is the same thing unless u get exhaust and downpipe
View 2 RepliesGolf/GTI VII :: APR Stage 2 - Hard Acceleration
I have 2015 GTI PP which had the APR Stage 2 with downpipe done about two weeks ago. I pretty much babied it the first week and couldn't believe how quick the car felt with a tiny little bit of throttle.
However, when I floor the car, it accelerates slower than if the throttle is slowly pressed to the floor. If I floor it and then back slowly back off the throttle as I near the upper RPMs the car starts to accelerate like it should have in the first place. The car is a total rocket if I slowly press the pedal towards the floor but if I press the pedal to much towards the floor the car slows down its acceleration that is until I start to slowly lift the pedal.
I'm at 5000ft elevation and its been pretty hot in the 80-103 F degrees. The gas out here is only 91 octane and the car has the 91 octane tune. I have tried gas from multiple stations and even tried an octane booster with no noticible improvement. I went to go log the car with my VCDS and found out that this new car uses a UDS ECU and none of the APR codes on their site match up.
Looking for a compiled list of UDS codes that actually log something useful? Or have a list that corresponds to the APR list of codes?
Golf/GTI VI :: Just Got APR Stage 1 - Bad Burning Smell In Car
So, last Saturday I took my car into New German Performance and had my ECU flashed to Stage 1. I used it on Saturday and Sunday in 93 mode, but switched back to stock for my commute during the week.
Starting on Tuesday this week, I've noticed that I constantly smell smoke at work and while at home. All of my clothes are smoky. Well, I narrowed it down to my car. When I got home today, I had the gf smell the inside of my car and it indeed smells like smoke and/or exhaust. What could have happened here?
The car has a hair under 33k on the clock and the last time the oil was checked (last Thursday morning I believe) the level was right on max. Of course, I haven't checked it since the tune (I will once the car cools down tonight), but I'm beginning to worry a little here.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: The Clutch Started Slipping
I'm a new owner of a 04 gti 1.8t. The car has been modified with a ko5 turbo @ 20psi, apr tune, 3" turbo back exhaust, hks bov, and a FMIC. The car is amazing, but with my luck after only a few days of owning the car the clutch started slipping.
View 2 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Air Conditioning Clutch Not Engaging
Here's the story: was on my way downtown last night to get a new suit (I'm in Savannah, GA so it's hot) and AC was working great. The Jetta (2003 AWP) is a stock-everything-1.8T that has never had any AC work done to it from the day I bought it new. I figured it was doing just fine so just leave it alone. Anyway, leave the suit shop (bought a gray three-piece) and go back to the parking lot, start up and get ready to leave, no cold air from the vents. I get it home and do some reading on here and also in the Bentley manual and get into some preliminary troubleshooting. Here's what I have so far:
- Engine running/AC button ON/Blower on "3"/Recirculation OFF/Engine at operating temperature
- Turn blower ON - visually verified that clutch is not engaged and compressor is not spinning
- Shut car off, compressor does turn by hand easily
- With AC button on and blower on, passenger side cooling fan (behind radiator) is ON but driver side cooling fan IS NOT on - I think this indicates a problem from what I've read
- Checked cabin fuses 5, 16, & 25. All have low resistance (good continuity) and are not discolored. Just to make sure I scuffed the contacts with a scotchbrite pad and reinstalled them
- Same deal for the top-of-the-battery power distribution block. All fuses checked okay and were scuffed and reinstalled
- Moved on to the pressure switch/pressure sensor. My vehicle has the 3-pin sensor so jumping contacts is not a possibility. I need to rent/buy a duty cycle meter to check it. Any good tutorial on how to do this? Do I disconnect the connector and check it right at the switch or must I break out the wires and check it in parallel with the connector attached to the sensor?
- I grabbed a flat-head screwdriver and gave the high-pressure and low-pressure service valves a poke and got a good blast of pressure from them so I don't think the system is empty.
- Did a little more reading and found I needed to check voltage at the 3-pin connector on top of the battery power distribution block. I did this with the key ON - no power at any of the pins. Repeated with key ON and engine running with AC button ON and blower ON - still no voltage. For these measurements, the connector was DISCONNECTED. Does this matter? Do I need to have it plugged in to get voltage there (i.e., read the voltage from the rear of the connector with it installed?)
- Finally, and perhaps most enlightening, I suspected I may simply be low on R134a so I bought a can with a pressure gauge on it. Connected it to low-pressure side with engine running, AC button ON, blower on "4", recirculation OFF. The gauge read ~150 PSIG. Yes, this seems high to me too; however, the compressor is still not turning at this point. Does it need to turn to get a good pressure reading from the LP service valve? I recall from everything I read that if pressure is too low, the clutch won't engage, and if pressure is too high, the clutch won't engage
So, as far as I can tell I have a few problems...
1. The driver side fan doesn't run when AC button is ON
2. No voltage at the 3-pin connector on the battery power distribution block Incorrect methods...there is voltage there.
3. Low-pressure side of the AC system is too high Called and checked with a local mechanic...I won't receive correct pressures if the compressor is not turning.
My next steps are to check the voltage at the compressor connector for 12VDC. I suspect I'll get 0V because it's clearly not turning. I'll do this once I can figure out how to get the dang connectors apart without breaking them. 11-year-old heat fatigued plastic is brittle...
Finally got the compressor connector apart.. there is 12VDC on pin 1 and 0VDC on pin 2 (it's a ground, so there shouldn't be..ground continuity check good). Ohmed out the clutch...from what I can tell, that circuit is open. However, I am not 100% sure I was on the contacts because of how the connector is positioned. I'm going to get a dummy connector from a salvage yard and connect it up and make sure I have good contact before I call it a bad clutch.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: VR6 Could Not Go In Gear When Release The Clutch
I drive a 24v vr6 GTI in 6-speed I was coming home and as I turned and got on the gas a little and all of a sudden there was a pop and my car couldn't go in gear when I release the clutch. Luckily I was close to home and basically cruised in neutral. I jacked it up and found that my axle is twisted. Now I was aware the boots were torn before so I'm assuming the axle got screwed up but my other concern is, why won't my car go in gear? Here's the photo of inner CV. I'm hoping it's just an axle and not the clutch.
View 8 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Clutch Never Came Back Up When Trying To Shift
So i was driving and I went to shift and my clutch never came back up. Long story short after searching the forums i think it might be my slave cylinder and throwout bearing. There was a puddle of fluid under the car.
I was planning on using this DIY : [URL] ....
Just wondering if all i have to do is follow this up to step 48 and replace the throwout bearing and slave cylinder.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: AC Clutch Doesn't Engage
My AC doesn't work right now, however, sometimes it works. It's very random, it doesn't matter if its hot outside or if its cool.
What happens is my AC clutch doesn't engage. when I turn ac on, it raises the idle for a second, and as soon as it does that, my ac compressor gets around 12 volts for less than a second, and the idle drops again. it does that in a loop.
My fans work fine, both high and low speeds, everything else works, all the fuses are good. I changed the pressure switch, didn't fix the problem. I also checked the ac coil and clutch. everything clicks and works. ground on the compressor is good.
Other odd thing - positive wire on the compressor constantly getting around 3 volts. What can it be and what else do i need to check?
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Clutch Is Slipping
My 2001 Golf seems like the clutch is slipping. It bangs into gear at low revs so bad you think you've hit a large pothole. I'm hoping it's not the whole transmission that needs replacing, because we only have 135000 on the clock.
View 2 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Transmission And Clutch Replacement
I am not very familiar with transmissions and clutches, hence I just purchased a used transmission for my jetta 1.8t, i was told that i might as well do the clutch while the transmission is getting done. I just purchased the car two years ago and the guy said that he put a vr6 clutch in. so my question is, what exactly will i need to get for both the transmission and clutch replacement. Like I mentioned, I only have bought the transmission so far.
View 6 Replies