Golf VI R :: Clutch And Brake Pedal Pulsing After Swapping Of Full Brake Fluid To RBF660?
I swapped my fluid and ever since I did that my clutch and brake pedal are pulsing/vibrating only when I start the car. It almost feels like ABS pulsing but on both pedals and the car is obviously stationary.
I followed the procedure from the manual and did all 4 corners and slave.
Brakes work fine/clutch is fine...
I must have done something to upset the BRAKE system?
Tiguan :: 2011 - Vibration In Brake Pedal When Drive Over Rough Terrain
I currently drive a 2011 Comfortline 6M. I notice that when i drive over rough terrain (roads, curbs, speedbumps) that i feel a weird vibration in the brake pedal and don't have any braking control. I have also noticed this in heavy rain conditions.
(Note: I have taken the vehicle to have the brakes checked at the dealer and they cannot find an issue. It also feels different than the ABS)
Passat (B5) :: Rattling In Front End Of Car When Driving On Uneven Terrain
I'm having a problem with a rattle that's in the front end of the car. I only hear it when I'm driving over "off roads" (uneven terrain) and not streets. The sound is not entirely Metallic but sometimes I get to hear rubber against rubber. I already changed motor mounts and stuts mounts but the rattle is still there. Is there anything else I should look for? I've had this rattle for over 5 months now!
View 5 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Strong Pulsing From The Brake Pedal
Just got a 99 super duty and I have a very weird problem. When stopping i feel a very strong pulsing from the brake pedal. I assumed warped rotor. but the strange part is when I hit the brake the cab dome light comes on. How to locate this pulsating?
View 8 RepliesFord Excursion :: Brake Intermittent - Hard Pedal And Pulsing Feeling Randomly
I'm having an issue with my brakes. It was very intermittent, but seems to be happening a little more often lately. 99% of the time they work fine.
I'll try to describe. (vaguely) It will sometimes feel like the ABS is engaging, get a very hard pedal and some pulsing feeling. Sometimes just the pulsing without the hard pedal. It will happen at random times. Today it did it in the driveway going 5 MPH. No reason the ABS should think of kicking in.
I feel confident to rule out anything downstream at the wheels. I am leaning towards the master cylinder, but maybe that's wishful thinking. Afraid it also could be something sticking in the ABS which I assume is $$$.
Brake fluid is 18 months old with maybe 20k on it.
Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Shaking Steering Wheel And Pulsing Brake Pedal At Speeds Above 55mph
I bought 09 GX-470 4K miles ago..has 50K on it. Ran perfect when we bought it. wife said it started doing it 1 week later. I drove it and felt like warped rotors to me. replaced front rotors and pads with cheap wearever brand...I Know...I was sort of trouble shooting..did nothing ...did the back rotors and pads and seemed to fix it..did proper bed-in of new parts but, never checked at speeds above 55mph. recent trip got us up to speeds above 55... at these faster speeds when brakes are applied we get a nasty wheel wobble and a pulsing pedal...braking below 55 it feels fine.. thought's ?? last car was a 4runner which has the the same rotors and pads and never had a problem...could it be ABS ?? should I go with new oem rotors and pads ?
View 10 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Brake Pedal Goes Halfway Down Before Pressure Builds
My mom's Jetta has had a squishy brake pedal ever since we got it a couple years ago. I figured it went down so far because the brake pads were wearing thin.
After having just replaced the pads and rotors, I flushed the fluid with the Motive power bleeder. I cycled the ABS pump with VCDS, then hooked the power bleeder back up and opened all four corners again until fluid was flowing clean and bubble-free.
Everything went well with the change, but the brake pedal never got as firm as I expected it to. Before the change, the pedal felt like it would get dangerously close to the floor. The brakes always worked, but the pedal hit about 60-70 percent of its travel before the car started slowing down. After the change, it has improved slightly, but it feels like its going about half-way before the brakes start working.
The pedal doesn't drop when you hold pressure on it like I figured it would if the master cylinder was leaking. Is this normal for a mk4 or does it sound like there's something wrong?
Car is a late 2001 2.0 Jetta Automatic with the MK60 ABS pump.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2004 - Brake Pedal Seems To Put Pressure Back When Applying Brakes
So I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t. Recently I noticed an issue with the brakes. It is a rare occurrence that this issue happens. Maybe 1 out 6 times I slowly stop the brake pedal seems to put pressure back against me applying brake pressure and makes somewhat of a grinding noise and the brakes don't seem to grab as well. But a split second later the brakes return to normal and grab as expected. Could it possibly be air in the brake lines or something totally different?
- Front brakes are in excellent condition.
- Just replaced the driver side front abs sensor and put new rear brakes and rotors on.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - Pulsing Air Sound On Start Up
What this sound is / caused by? This is my Dad's Golf, the sound subsides after the engine warms up a little. It runs fine, power and all. I took off the top timing cover, nope that wasn't it, no rubbing as the sound persisted. Thinking maybe an injector o-ring? The car has 130,000 miles and change on it.
[URL] ....
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Brake Pedal Engages At Normal Depress Spot Then Depresses More?
2001 2.0
251,xxx km
Noticed here lately that my brake pedal is depressing further, and can go to the floor if I press it hard enough.
If I press the pedal quick (panic stop) it engages quickly and in the correct spot (I can feel the front tires almost lock up) then it depresses more almost to the floor. the brakes still work perfect however.
What should I try first?
I use my hand brake, and have pumped the brakes and pulled the handbrake to set the rear pistons in place.
I replaced the two rear calipers about a year and a half ago and bled them obviously. Have not bled the front brakes and will do that, but was just looking for more insight, and common problems, vacuum leak, etc.
Reservoir is full as well, and no brake line leaks that I know of.
Golf/GTI VI :: Uneven Front Brake Pad Wear - What To Do
I noticed this yesterday when swapping out my wheels. What could be the causes?
Pass side
Drivers side
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - Uneven RPMs When Cruising
Occasionally I can feel light jerking when cruising steadily at around 2200 rpm. for a second the rpms increase by ~50, not enough even to notice any change in speed, and then goes back where it was. it is as if the clutch was slipping.
My first thought was MAF so took one from a working car but problem did not go away.
A minor thing that may be unrelated: the transmission also sometimes doesn't set shiftpoints properly, i.e., when accelerating uphill, it would go from 1st to 2nd ok, then when it reaches the point to shift to 3rd, the 3rd gear stays only for a second or so, and then shifts to 4th.
So I disconnected the MAF sensor altogether and the problem went away! My conclusion was then that it must be the wiring between ECU and MAF, so checked the cables between ECU and MAF, found all resistances within spec (below 2.5 Ohm). Since the problem is intermittent, the resistance of the cables doesn't tell much.
Checked with vag-com and there are no codes. Where to go from there? 2003 AVH (auto)...
Ford Aerostar :: Uneven Brake Pad Wear / Increased Brake Dust On Wheel
97 4.0 ext. As the title says the right front pads wear more than the drivers side. Have replaced calipers pads and rotors during recent overhaul. Noticed increased brake dust on wheel on rf front. Could the metering valve under master cyl be the culprit. Abs and brake lights work as normal.
View 4 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: Brake Pedal Seems Too Soft / Brake Feel Isn't Linear
I own a stock 2010 golf with 22k miles on it. There seems to be a problem with brake feel. Brake pedal feels way too soft and there is way too much pedal travel for brakes to engage. Car won't start decelerating until pedal is pushed nearly 1/2 of its total travel length. However there seems no problem with stopping the car. On hard braking car stops well (with ABS). Another problem is brake feel isn't linear.
View 10 RepliesJetta - Volkswagen :: 2012 TDI - Brake Pedal Went All The Way To Floor Without Slowing Down
Brand new 2012 jetta TDI (less than 1,000 miles). Standard, 6 speed. A few weeks ago, I went to brake, and my pedal went all the way to the floor (no resistance) w/o slowing me down. I let the pedal out (after freaking out a little), and when i went to try again, the brakes kicked in. I was a block from home, so I continued to drive, pulled in to park, and it happened again. Left foot on the clutch, right foot went to brake and went all the way to the floor. Took it straight to the dealer. They checked it, drove it, checked it again. Couldn't find anything.
I've driven about 500 miles since, with no incident. Then, it happened again. My brake pedal literally touched the floor, and didn't even slow me down. I tried pumping. Nothing. Took the pedal all the way out, and then recompressed- worked fine. Drove it to the dealer, happened one more time on the way (had to pull the ebrake to stop).
They have had it 2 days and still can't find anything wrong. I've been driving VWs since I got my license. I've never even owned an automatic, so the whole "maybe you were pressing the clutch instead of the brake" comment is out of the question. What is going on?!
Jetta - Volkswagen :: 2005 - Fading Brake Pedal When Comes To A Stop
2005 VW Jetta: The brake indicator light came on in the dashboard. I took the car to the dealer, and they replaced the front brake pads. Indicator light is now off, but I drove away with a new problem: The pedal fades as it comes to a stop. I have to push almost to the floor to stay still. Sometimes the car drifts forward if I'm not consciously pushing down harder than usual on the pedal. The dealer took the car back for a few days, replaced the master cylinder, bled the lines and did not charge me. But the problem is still there. What went wrong?
View 10 RepliesHonda - Element :: Pulsing Even With Brake On
I put my Honda Element in storage for 6 months while traveling. Upon my return I found the battery was dead (expected that) and have that fixed, But, the big problem is the engine light is on steadily, and the car hardly drives. It "pulses" , or wants to go, even with brake on. I have to put it in neutral at stop lights, as I am afraid it may take off. When idling, it pulses. I accelerated while in neutral and the highest i could get it to go was 5k, pulsing the entire time. Someone suggested I put a product into gas tank called Heat.
View 9 RepliesPhaeton :: Brake Pulsing At High Speed Between 60 And 80 Mph
When I apply the brakes moderately at speeds between 60 mph and 80 mph, the brakes pulses and the car shakes. If I press harder, the intensity gets worse shortly and then disappears the harder I press. The front steering wheel does not shake so I believe it is the rear brake or wheels. This problem started after I changed the rear VW brakes rotors and rear VW pads and changed all four wheels with remanufactured VW Phaeton wheels. The issue must be with the wheels,brakes, or lug nuts. The tires have not been changed but they are fairly new from what I can tell. The front rotor and pads was changed by the prior owner and I've never had issue with them, they are fairly new and look to be OEM.
Prior to reinstalling the new wheels, I cleaned the rust off of the front rotor surface that makes contact with the wheel and applied high temperature paint. One of the wheels I had a run in the paint (and there is no way I can make the paint 100% the same thickness) so perhaps this has slightly misaligned the front wheels to the rotors.
When I did the brake job, I cleaned the driver side rear hub of surface rust prior to installation of the rotor. I did not clean the hub on the rear passenger side because the hub and wheel bearing was changed a few months prior. I did snap the plastic for the speed sensor for the abs on the rear passenger side. I epoxied the plastic back together and have no ABS errors when the car is scanned. Everything was torqued per VW recommendations. I also checked the calibers sliding mechanism (for left to right movement if rotor slightly warped or out of true) and they moved freely and was not locked up. The only part of the job that was not 100% by the book is I used a hand made tool to push the pistons in on the calipers so I could install the pads (I had to push and turn the piston roughly at the same time but was not 100% at the same time because the tool was hand made).
I've had the wheels professionally rebalanced balanced at a tire shop with a fairly modern balancing machine (digital computer flat screen readout). Originally the wheels was balanced with an older balancing machine and when they rebalanced it it was noted the wheels was way out of balance. I had a bad steering wheel shake and the car vibrated significantly prior to the new balance. The shaking improved greatly with the rebalancing but I could still feel a subdued shake in the seat of my pants (steering wheel shake is gone). Yesterday, I retorqued all of the lug nuts and found the driver side rear and passenger side front had one loose lug nut. Also it appeared that the lug nuts may have been installed with an impact driver and probably not torqued because some were very tight. I used a dial gauge to check both the rear tires and I have about 15-20 thousands of movement in each wheel when rocked side to side and top to bottom. Prior to tightening the lug nut on the driver rear, I had 100 thousands of side to side movement. Car now runs much smoother (maybe not as good with the original wheels and brakes but pretty good) after retorquing all the lug nuts, but the same 60-80 mph pulsing / shaking happens when apply the brakes at speed, perhaps even worse.
I've also checked the rear rotor and wheel runout with the dial gauge and I didn't have anything over 4 thousands on the rotor or wheel when rotated. My jig for the dial gauge was not the best since it was hand made and was attached to the ground instead of the car, so any dial gauge measurements could be off, but I would think they tolerances would be even better if I had a proper jig mounted to the car (not floor). The only thing that I haven't replaced is the lug nuts. Tightening them did seam to change the brake pulse behavior for the worse but did make the car run smoother. Could it be possible that the lug nuts are stretched and this is producing the behavior I'm seeing? I've head the ABS can cause a shake if the speed sensor is damaged.
Ignition - Jetta - Volkswagen :: 2001 - At Start Up After Off For Couple Of Hours Gas And Brake Pedal Won't Work
A couple weeks ago I bought a 2001 VW Jetta with 176,000 miles on it. The car runs well, but for the past four days this has been happening:
Every time I start the car, after it's been off for a couple hours, neither the gas nor the brake pedal work. I can push them down, and I hear the car trying to respond but it doesn't do anything (well, it does move a little, as though it's in neutral). Then, when I turn the car off and then turn it immediately back on, both pedals are back to normal and work perfectly fine again. It's happened every time I start the car for the past few days.