Lexus GS 2013+ :: Exhaust Tips Beginning To Crack And Peel
Four months on and today I noticed my 3M carbon fibre wrapped exhaust tips are beginning to crack and peel in the corners. I am thinking exhaust heat finally drying the glue backing out causing them to dry up like old leaves.
Also after Plasti Dipping my logos I have had no luck with the rear tailgate F Sport logo in removing the fine SPORT centre fill cleanly to reveal the white background on my white GS. Everywhere else went perfect. Not keen on leaving a silver logo with all other blacked out on the back end.
Caprice :: 1984 - Smoke Coming From Exhaust And Strong Carbon Smell
The exhaust from my caprice if thick and white. And there's a strong carbon smell. Could this mean my cat converter is bad?
View 2 RepliesVolvo :: 740 Engine - Rough Idle / Fair Amount Of Carbon At Exhaust Pipe
I've got an '88 Volvo 740 Turbo Wagon: 5-speed, 225K miles, that's been acting up over the last year. She doesn't burn oil (qt in 1500 typical) and appears to still be tight. The Turbo works and bearings make no noise. The engine service light does NOT glow (but I admit I haven't checked the bulb). I do have a Haynes manual and have been using it to assist with some results (see replaced items), but I'm not trained on this car and this manual is woefully lacking in good diags for some obvious things. (IMG: [URL] .....)
Symptoms: She cold starts OK, but try to restart warmed at all and she usually has to sit at least an hour or no go. Outside temp seems to make little difference. There's a gassy smell while cranking warm and it's very much like a flooded carburetor engine. Often, the engine will finally catch with the pedal floored after a long crank. Also, after warming and driving a few minutes, the idle erratically will not return to normal, sitting up at 1800-2700 RPM for a bit before finally calming down. It was also running a little rough. There's a fair amount of carbon at the exhaust pipe and MPG is only ~20 and I'm a light foot. The idle RPM varies a bit much moving around between 600-1100 RPM warm.
What I've done this year: It had a broken thermostat (replaced), failing alternator (replaced), failed starter (replaced), failing fuel pump (replaced with filter), recent oil change (has turned black after 800 miles). Most grounds around engine and firewall and 12 volt ignition contacts cleaned. The bat cables were cleaned and terminals coated. Ohm tested the injectors OK (all exactly the same, on spec) and they all "click" in operation. I replaced a bad coil (low ohms by 20% for both primary and 2nd) and changed the carbon fouled plugs (which were also ill-gapped by some hamhand), both of which worked for the roughness considerably. The plug wires all came up roses well under 10k ohms. The battery was a suspect for testing low so much when resting, but the alternator seems to have slowly fixed that (and problems come when system is charging OK). However, the main warm start and idle problem persists. (IMG: [URL] ....)
My next good guess: An obvious rich condition exists and, having eliminated quite a few other things, a sticking "Air Control Valve" seems the likely suspect (some call it an idle control valve but I'm going by the manual). My specific observations of this device: after a warm no start, I pulled the ACV electrical lead and she fired right up and idled well at 16-1800 RPM. I plugged it back in and she chugged and nearly died before idling ~800 RPM. As it idled normally, I pulled the rubber hose from the upstream air connection to the ACV and it chugged and died within 5 seconds. I noted the vacuum was very strong. Putting the hose on, it wouldn't restart till I removed the electrical lead again. The ACV circuit has continuity at the device but I haven't ohm tested it yet. My best diag is the mechanical part of the ACV is gummed up or worn out. The Haynes manual was almost no way in arriving at this conclusion. (IMG: [URL] ....)
Golf V R32 :: Rear Lower Valance / Diffuser - Removal Tips?
Mine managed to become partially dislodged by a piece of retread on the way home from WitW '13.
It's not flapping around or hitting the exhaust or anything, but I want to get it back in place. I tried to just jam it in there but it didn't want to stay. I'm thinking full removal and reinstall is my best option at this point.
I know one of the clips on the painted bumper section is cracked, so that may be some of the problem.
Hoping I can get it back in place and then use some plastic epoxy on the clip, trying not to glue the valance to the clip but repair the clip itself...
I've heard it can be a huge PITA to remove? To be fully clear here -- I'm just talking about the black plastic stuff around the exhaust. All of the painted parts are intact (other than a cracked clip that I can see on the lower plastic painted section).
Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Tips On Removing OEM Auto Shift Knob?
just got my new 2012 Corolla S AUTOMATIC and want to see if this knob will fit my shifter. Any tips on removing the OEM auto shift knob? URL...
View 5 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Tips To Remove Stuck Fuel Filter Lid
I am attempting to change my fuel filter - have a new Napa unit complete with new lid.
I can not get the old one off (this alone tells me it's been on there too long). The hex is 26mm and all I have is a 26mm box end. It just rounds the corners of the plastic hex off.
As the new filter has a new lid, I am using a steel chisel and hammer (in a CCW direction) at several places on the top flange. I have also smacked the top flange liberally to get it to let go of whatever is holding it.
I'm about to get out my map torch out and warm up the plastic but would rather not produce a flame on something with fuel directly behind it.
Ford :: How To Prevent Carbon Build Up
My commute is only 11.5 miles. 6 miles of it I can run 55-65. Am I building a carbon nightmare?
View 11 RepliesPassat (B6) :: Rough Starting - Carbon Build Up?
Anything to remove some carbon build up, that won't cost an arm and a leg. My car has 123k miles on it and those morning starts from the carbon build up are just unpleasing to say the least.
View 7 RepliesSilverado :: 2001 - Carbon Buildup In The Intake
I'm replacing my knock sensors and intake gaskets on a 2001 silverado and there is a lot of carbon buildup in the intake, what can i use to safely clean it with....
View 5 RepliesCamry :: Some Black Carbon Came Off While Removing Top Plastic Cover
I recently removed the top plastic cover on my '05 Camry LE V6 to pull a plug and inspect/decide if I was going to change them out. While I felt I was being careful handling the plastic cover, I grabbed it by the access hole for the oil filler cap. Walking back into the garage, some black carbon came off, and looking at the bits on the ground, and what was left on the inside of the cover, I'm not sure if there is supposed to be a gasket there.
Maybe it was just an accumulation of spilled oil over the years that has trapped and "cooked", or something put in place to capture spilled oil. I scraped the rest of the carbon off using a razor blade and cleaned it up before installing the cover.
Chrysler - Ptcruiser :: 2005 - Carbon Buildup And Clogged
Our 2005 PT Cruiser has a 2.4 liter turbo. We had to replace the turbo at 78K miles due to “carbon buildup and clogged” so said the dealer. I can not get any local mechanic to tell me why this happened or if it is normal. My wife claims it is because I have been using the cheap, mid-grade gas. I tell her, no, it was because of the cheap oil I was using. I am now using synthetic oil. One mechanic said the turbo needs to be “blown out” occasionally, by either high speed driving or fast take offs. Bottom line: What would make the turbo carbon up so badly that it must be replaced? What can I do to have this not happen again around 156K? Must I always use premium gas?
View 19 RepliesAcura - Integra :: Removing Carbon Build Up On Pistons?
My 87 Acura Integra with 170k gave SMOG reading in CA as below:
NOSpeed Max Meas15 760 87525 542 535
A m/c tells me it is the result of carbon build up on pistons.
Incidentally it gave the following in 2010 - upon retesting without any repair it passed:
NOSpeed Max Meas15 760 65625 542 678
Note: Recent oil change (Mobil 1 High Mileage), tune up, Thermostat, new PCV valve, NGK Plat spark
It is for "NO" - Nitrous Oxide
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Wet Looking Carbon On The Surface Of Plenum?
When I had the throttle body removed for cleaning I noticed the upper intake had quite a bit of wet looking carbon on the surface of the plenum. I've seen shops hang a bottle of Seafoam from the hood and let it slowly drip into the intake hose just before the throttle body to clean the intake. Any thoughts on this or must I remove the manifold and clean it with solvent and bore brushes?
View 1 RepliesIS F (2008-2014) :: Paddle Shifters - Carbon Version Not Working?
So I bought the carbon paddle shifters that Khoa was selling from the first carbon steering wheel he got.
Having already replaced my OEM steering wheel with the flat-bottomed version, I was familiar with the process for removing what I needed to change the shifters over.
Everything went fine, and after checking all the connections were good, I re-installed the steering wheel, re-connected the battery, and took the car for a test-drive.
At first I left the car in auto, and tried using the paddles. Nothing. Flicked the shifter over to manual-mode, and it popped up I was in 4th. Tried shifting with the paddles to go up or down, but nothing.
I was short for time, so had to leave it like that for a few days.
I then removed the wheel again, and reinstalled my OEM silver shifters. Took the car out for another test-drive, and it works fine.
Khoa was kind enough to speak to the guys that sell these along with the very nice steering wheels everyone is talking about. They suggested I swap over the paddles so I keep the electrics of my OEM shifters. The paddles themselves are only held in with a gudgeon pin, which tapped out quite easily. The paddle itself slots in to a hole in a metal piece inside the plastic end pieces. Looks as if it simply moves up and down when you flick the paddle front or backwards.
I mounted the carbon paddles into my OEM electrics, and tapped the gudgeon pins back into place. I then re-assembled the steering wheel, check the connections, and re-installed the wheel. Re-connected the battery and took the car for a test-drive with everything firmly crossed.
Nothing!
The paddles won't work at all. Not up or down. I am so confused as to why they don't work. I can't see any differences between the OEM silver paddles and the carbon versions. Not sure what my next move will be. I need to try putting the OEM paddles back together, and see if they work. If they do, I am baffled as to what the fundamental difference can be between the two?
Passat (B7) :: 2012 3.6 SE - Hard Startup Due To Excessive Carbon Build Up
Last week when we were in the single digits outside my 3.6 SE took about 15-20 sec of cranking to start (garage kept). Then the check engine light came on (2nd time in 10 months). I drive a lot (80 miles a day), and have put 19,900 miles on since I purchased it in March of 2012. The light turned off after three cycles, but I just so happen to have my 20,000 mile service scheduled so I took the car in. The hard start still is happening every few start ups.
The dealer told me the hard start issues I have been experiencing was due to excessive carbon build up on the valves. The dealer said they haven't seen many "high mileage" 2012 3.6 come through, so they could not tell me if this is common.
I use Shell 93 octane for every fill up. Is there something else I should be doing to prevent this carbon build up? Any others seen this with their higher mileage 2012 3.6? BTW they also had to replace the right rear control arm due to one of the bushings being worn out!
Honda - Accord :: 1999 V6 Intake Manifold Carbon Deposits
My 1999 Accord with V6 and 240,000 miles pings on all gas except premium.I removed the upper intake manifold and found a very small pool of oil in the mainifold floor next to the opening that the throttle body bolts to.Also there is a small port in the upper manifold next to the throttle body opening that is about 80% clogged with a hard black deposit. This deposit is also in the corresponding port on the lower intake manifold.I had a new EGR valve and decarbonization done at about 175,000 miles.
The car runs great on premium gas but it is supposed to run on regular which is a lot cheaper.
Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Valve Rattle Under Acceleration - Carbon Build Up
I have a 2014 Sonata with 22k miles. I love this car but lately I've noticed valve rattle under acceleration. Brought this up with service tech and he said I'm not driving the car on long enough trips to keep it cleaned off. When I researched the GDI very little info comes up for Hyundai mainly vw and BMW. I guess what I'm asking is is the only fix for the carbon build up removing the intake and cleaning the valves manually or is there another way.
View 56 RepliesPassat (B6) :: Knock Sensor Code After Valve Carbon Scrubbing Service
I have a '07 Passat Wagon 2.0T with 80K miles. I just had the carbon scrubbed off the valves (looked like black popcorn stuck in there!) and now I'm getting a "P0327 Knock Sensor 1" light. The motor seems to run just fine (actually much better now without the carbon build-up). I'll clear the code but it will show up again the next day.
What could cause the code? Could it be related to the recent scrubbing (fully removed and replaced the valve cover in the process), perhaps a chunk of carbon floating around in the tubes somewhere? I want to go back to the guys that performed the service but I want to have a good idea of what could be the problem and the fix before I get there.
Passat - Volkswagen :: Misfiring On Cylinder 3 - Carbon Build Up On Intake Manifold
I recently took my 2007 VW Passat 2.0T in b/c the check engine light was on. They initially replaced a leaking valve and a bad ignition coil, but the car was still misfiring on cylinder 3. They took off the intake manifold and found that there was significant carbon build up. The service writer said it was from "low-quality" gas. The car requires 91 octane. I've used 93 octane since 2007 but started using 89 octane around 6 months ago when the gas prices spiked again. Could 6 months of 89 octane cause significant carbon build up to the point it would trip the check engine light? Or could something else have caused it that I need to watch out for?
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