Golf IV R32 :: Lost All Throttle Response When Reached Max Boost Around 90 Mph
Driving Down the highway at approximately 80 mph. Adjusting my electronic boost controller for more boost, I input the values set it and slowly accelerated in fifth gear reached max boost around 90 mph all of a sudden I Lost all throttle response EPC light ESP come on and I start decelerating. The pullover to the side of the road and I hook up my generic OBD2 scanner comes up with the code P0606 (001542 - Internal Control Module: Processor Fault == 214b) and P2106 (Throttle Valve Actuator Module (J338): Power Limited due to Malfunction. After scanning and reading and looking up with the codes were disconnected the battery reconnected the battery and tried to start the car again but this Time Rd., Ranger pulled up behind me blocked traffic so I can get back on the highway soon as I get on the highway CEL back on run the code real quick message airflow sensor. Get off the next exit go to the gas station shut the car off disconnect and reconnect the mass airflow sensor clear the code get back on the highway check engine light does not come back on but idles fine 14 to 1 air fuel ratio but if I step on the gas and hit boost it goes all the way lean 60 mile an hour cruising speed it stayed at like between 13.9 and 15:1. Also got a CEL earlier in the day for p0040 (oxygen sensor swapped bank 1 sensor 1, Bank 2 sensor1.
Hpa air/water intercooler
Sri
9:1 weisco pistons
I.e. H beam rods
870cc injectors
Unitronic big turbo 870 tune
Gerrett gt35r
Full custom 3" exhaust
#ctsturbo downpipe
Ctsturbo turbo manifold
New gizmo electronic boost controller
Engine has Aprox 2300 miles body frame has about 79000.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: At Random Times Car Will Lose Boost And Throttle Response
I have a very very strange thing happening in my 2004 vw jetta 1.8t. at random times the car will lose boost and throttle response. I am not sure what it could be I have replaced quite a few parts and it still happens.
No matter what speed or how much boost the car will just drop pressure and the throttle goes numb. For example I will be cruising on the highway around 80 on 0lbs of boost or a few and then the throttle just quits, at that point I can push the throttle to the floor and no response.
To fix it I have to lift my foot off the throttle completely and then go back on to rebuild boost or pressure. There is no pattern on when it happens, its happened from 10mph to 90mph and it happened ins 8lbs of boost or in vacuum. When I lose boost or pressure the boost gauge drops the needle to the bottom of vacuum at like 30.
Things I've replace:
- diverter valve
- n75
- throttle pedal
- checked throttle body sensors
- replacing maf this week
GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: 2004 1.8T - Half Throttle Boost / Little Hesitation At 5 PSI
I have a 04' Jetta 1.8T (AWP) my mods are APR Chip (91octane program) Forge 007 DV, APR TIP, NGK spark plugs, catback exhaust. This issue I am having pretty much started when i got it chipped and I've got it reflashed and I've even talked to people at APR and they are saying that it couldn't be a software issue. Anyhow the problem I am having is at partial throttle my car kind of hesitates a little at 5psi and when i let of the gas the car kind of hiccups a little.. but if i really punch it in every gear i hit 21-22psi no problem, the problem happens when I am driving normal and its really annoying.
I have switched several different N75 valves, I am running the stock one now, I've switched different DV's, i have switched my spark plugs and even put at APR turbo inlet pipe and i have checked for boost/vacuum leaks, I have no CEL...all this hasn't resolved my problem.. I don't know what else to do..
I was thinking about switching my MAF to see if it works, but then again if it was my MAF im sure I would have a CEL. I also was thinking about putting my N75 valve backwards even the DV backwards to see if it works?
Prius (2004-09) :: Brake Boost Pump Running Much More Frequently Than Normal
During the last week, or slightly less I suddenly started hearing the brake boost pump running much more frequently than normal in my 2008 and is also producing a "knocking" noise along with its run noise which increases in frequency as the pump speed increases. No problems with the engine coolant pump for the thermos, and the inverter pump was replaced yesterday along with a replaced "bolt" in the steering column for the recall.
View 4 RepliesPhaeton :: ADR Malfunction - 00472 - Control Module For Brake Boost (J539)
After sorting all other problems and making my car a nice LPG W12 version of the Phaeton, I would now like to face another problem I am finding related to the ADR (auto distance regulation) or auto cruise control.
Nearly 90% of the times I start the car, after a couple of minutes a warning shows up saying the ADR is defective. If I turn the car off the message disappears and after a few minutes it comes up again.
Sometimes it does not show up and then the system works fine until I start the car again. I have tried an overnight charge of the left battery with no success. The vagcom shows the following error when the ADR shows as defective.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 13: Auto Dist. Reg Labels: None
Part No: 3D0 907 567 E
Component: AC101 W12 5HP244 10 0334
Coding: 0001201
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 2E570A8BC087
1 Fault Found:
00472 - Control Module for Brake Boost (J539)
013 - Check DTC Memory
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Honda Accord :: 2014 I4 CVT - Tight Steering And Stiff Brake Boost / RPM Fluctuates On Cold Start
My 2014 Accord i4 CVT has 7000miles and it has acted a little strange ever since I pushed it to 3500rpm at Sport mode and then I maybe abruptly shifted it to Drive mode, at which point it made some whining noise shortly. But don’t get me wrong, acceleration was gentle and I don’t ever beat a car.
Since that incidence, it idles at 1500rpm upon cold start at P and fluctuates between 1000rpm and 1100rpm after it warms up a little bit (still in Park). When on stop (brake) on D, it has slight rough idle that periodically comes and goes, which gets better when the A/C is off but not completely resolves. Acceleration is sluggish and lagging, and it has some “dragging/sluggish” feel on coasting as well. When braking, it takes more effort and brake feels stiffer as if it lacks some break boost. Also, the electric power steering gets heavy/tight (I think this could be more of a sensor/input problem rather than the motor).
All these symptoms come and go together except for the fluctuating idle upon cold start, which is persistent. Gently pushing gas at 1200 rpm for, say 10 seconds, tend to “free” the tight steering wheel, and car starts to act more normally with better coasting and acceleration, and more responsive brake for a while. And problem comes back. Also, turning off the A/C seems to make the car act behave notably better but I am cautious of this point since it is known that Honda’s A/C system really takes away the engine power.
I had the dealer shop check for vacuum leak. The report says “check idle, check idle control, check for vacuum leaks ok, check or any codes, checks ok”, basically saying there is no vacuum leak. But I think it is still possible that they missed something. Dealer shops and some independent shops I visited aren’t so willing to figure out what is going on, and I basically need to ask them “check this and check that”.
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Large Leak From Somewhere In Power Steering / Brake Boost System
I've had a large leak from somewhere in my power steering/brake boost system (the whole reservoir gone in under a week) and I want to finally get to the bottom of it. Instead of paying a mechanic labor, I figured I'll look at it myself. So I got under it and I think that the leak is coming from the power steering gearbox, or a line that goes to it, but how to figure out which. How to diagnose this HydroBoost leak on my 6.4L? Here are some pictures ....
View 2 RepliesGolf VI R :: Boost At Around 3500 Rpm But Very Mild
So pre waterfest my car was accelerating as expected. It'll pull fine until about 3250-3500rpm then it'll get a little kick until about 6k. Now, I can feel the boost at around 3500rpm but it's very mild. It only holds boost until around 4500rpm.
I don't have a boost gauge installed but I have an app that will connect to a Bluetooth OBD dongle I have. I've used it in the past and it tells me how much boost I'm making. It shows that I am peaking around 24-27 lbs of boost. But it just drops shortly after without me letting off the throttle at all.
Golf/GTI VI :: 2003 1.8t Pre-Detonation When Boost Over 9 Psi
I have a 2003 jetta 1.8 turbo with a APR chip boosting 21 psi. I have had no problems for the first 5 years or so, but then recently within the last year it started predetonating when I boost over 9 psi, I've tried replacing the injectors, upping the fuel pressure, using 93 octane fuel, (which I always had used anyways) replacing the oxygen sensor and other things to no avail. Also there are no codes regarding this issue stored in the computer.
I highly doubt there is any issues with carbon buildup in the pistons.
Golf/GTI VI :: Oil On The Hose For Boost Gauge
So popped my plastic shroud off to change my oil and thought it was strange the the hose for the boost gauge was really oily. Is it normal?
View 2 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: Losing Boost Above 3500 Rpm?
car is losing boost as soon as it goes above the 3500 range.
it will reach peak boost at WOT but begin to tamper off as it goes higher in the range and will reach as low as 5lbs towards 5-6k
i have an apr stage 2+ tune and my peak boost is usually 17-19 lbs.
check all hoses and everything checks out fine.
Golf VI R :: Idle Bouncy After Boost
I'm having a strange issue with my R. My idle seems to get bouncy/seek RPM after i boost and come to a stop. No codes present on VCDS
Mods are Unitronic stage 1+, VWR intake and R8 ignition coils
~54K miles and pulls hard.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Won't Boost Past 4 Lbs?
my car into VAG COM and since then it hasn't boosted past 4 lbs. it has Revo stg 2, K04, aftermarket side mount, full exhaust and a couple other bolt ons. Before the car was spiking at around 23/24 lbs. after pressure testing the system I found that the turbo inlet pipe was lose, so I tightened it. Still no change. I tried holding the battery terminals together for 10 minutes to reset the ecu and I also tried clearing the codes through a handheld code reader. No codes even come up anyways for this. The car is a 1.8T.
View 4 RepliesFord Excursion :: Adjustable Brake Pedal - Throttle Doesn't And Never Did Adjust
The adjustable brake pedal on my excursion works fine, but the throttle doesn't and never did adjust. It just doesn't move at all. Why? Just a bad electric motor on the adjuster? Just curious if there is something common that fails before I delve into trouble shooting it more.
View 7 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: Losing A Little Boost At Higher RPMs
I have been looking around for some boost information. I have come across a few threads that have boost graphs, but the images are no longer available. I have tried to get a hold of some of the posters, but no luck.
I only recently hooked up a boost gauge and have been monitoring my boost more. I had a slight feeling before I hooked it up that I was losing a little boost at higher rpms. Between 4500-5000 my boost drops from 18 to 15 and then from 5000-6000 it drops to about 10. I know it's sometimes normal for boost to drop at top end, but I'm not quite certain it's supposed to be that much.
I installed the Spulen Boost Pipe Kit hoping it may make some type of difference, but it's the same. What it might be? I have checked all my pipes as best as possible, but couldn't find anything.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Car Loses Boost Throughout The Rev Range
So my 2001 1.8t Golf is having some issues holding boost. I have a Gonzo stage 2 tune, CTS FMIC, Forge 008 Diverter, Silicone inlet and MagnaFlow Exhaust. I've also done the whole Evap, SAI delete and installed a catch can.
Starting in 2nd or 3rd at WOT the car spikes up to 18psi and then progressively loses boost throughout the rev range. Close to redline the boost drops to 5 psi or so. It seems to be dependent on the revs. In fifth gear the car holds 18 psi much longer as the revs don't increase as fast.
There are no CELs. I've done multiple leak tests starting at the air box and plugging the pcv/catch can system as well as at the compressor side of the turbo. None of the tests revealed a leak anywhere in the intake system. However, when I stuck my ear very close to the valve cover I could hear what sounded like a very small air leak coming from inside the valve cover. I took a look at the wastegate actuator and it seemed fine, no play in the rod, no loose bolts and to move it just requires enough force to compress the spring and it returned to its original position.
My thoughts are that it could be a fueling issue or turbo in the process of dying maybe.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Slight Drop In Boost
Just noticed today that I have a slight drop in boost. Normal boost is 1.5 bar but today it is running slightly lower boost and does not have the same pull through all the gears.
2001 mk4 1.9 tdi golf
Golf VI R :: Westgate Knobs Fell Off / No Boost
I am in a small jam. The knobs on my westgate fell off and i have no boost at all. I need to adjust it back to a standard pressure .
View 8 RepliesGolf VI R :: No Turbo Boost - Weird Sound When Hit The Gas
I have a 2012 R with 85,000 miles, APR chip running 93 octane with a HPFP and VWR cold air intake. I was driving my car today (slow driving on highest) and all of a sudden I felt no turbo boost, and heard a weird sound whenever I hit the gas. Car moved but would not get above 3500 rpms and couldn't really get past 60 mph. Again, absolutely no boost (I have a boost gauge as well to verify).
About to drop off the car at a shop but had a couple questions:
1. If the turbo is blown, can I still drive the car to the shop (not too far) without damaging the engine itself?
2. if the turbos needs to be replaced, what are my options besides getting the stock turbo replaced, without getting some crazy setup? This is my daily driver and I don't want to spend money beyond what I need to get it fixed, but it there is a stronger more reliable turbo for about the same as a OEM, I would want to consider... Also price for OEM replacement??
3. Without the mechanic looking at it, I'm just assuming it's the turbo but what else could be the issue? All the lines looks intact and intake is fitted correctly. I did have issues with my cam follower getting damaged at 45,000 miles (there was a hole in it) and I have been replacing it every 20,000 miles since. Didn't have any issues for 40,000 additional miles, but could damage to that cause turbo failure?