Golf VI R :: 2013 - Getting Horrible MPG
Car: 2013 golf r.
Mods: stage 2, spm downpipe, stock catback, stock intake, dxd stage 2 clutch.
All of a sudden I am getting 17mpg in the city and 22-24 on the highway. Checked fuel trims and they are within 5%. I checked just the 032.
Golf V R32 :: Horrible Scraping Grinding Sound
So... I bought Ksport Coilovers and had them installed about a month ago. Were on the car about a week and started to get creaking noises from the front. So, I contacted BSH (who sold them) who put me in contact with the Director of Operations for Ksport...
Send them to him, and he replies that he thinks my sway bar is high, and that it should be "parallel with the ground. Today when backing up (down right) I get a horrible scraping grinding sound. I stop, get out (thinking it is the fender liner) only to find no damage. So I keep checking and find a fresh scrape on the axle. I drive (gingerly) home and pull the wheels off and check everything in the front. It is all tight and nothing seems to be broken. I look at the sway bar end (which is curved).
Golf V R32 :: Horrible Smell For The First Few Minutes When AC Turned On
Back in may, the ac started having a horrible smell for the first few minutes while on. It smells like crayons gone bad. I heard about this before but either i suck at researching ( probably this) or i am the only one with this problem (I am sure I am not).
Well, today on my way back from work my i tried to tun on my ac and nothing.. the fan on the radiator works, but the blower doesn't. Researching again, i found something about the resistors on the blower going bad. However, most of the people posting about it didnt have climatronic like we do. Is it the same for us?
Which fuses and relays are related to the ac?
Golf VI R :: Horrible Vibration Under Braking, But Only When Brakes Are Hot
Need to diagnose what I assume is a brake problem. On track, first lap is fine. Second lap start to get a vibration under braking. By the third lap the car is shuddering horrible under braking. Let the car cool for 5 minutes and it's back to the same pattern. Car is fine on the street - no vibration. StopTech slotted rotors and EBC Yellow pads. Rotors and pads have one track day on them and a few thousand commuting miles. My OEM rotors with the same brand pads lasted 4-5 track days and 30k miles.
View 11 RepliesGolf V R32 :: Horrible Dip In Torque And Power After 4000 Rpm
I have an my 2008 Golf mk5 R32 DSG. I have fitted the GruppeM Intake , done the decat and fitted a Milltek Resonated system. I am based around 1.12 miles above sea level and our fuel here is probably the equivalent of your 91. I had the car dyno'd yesterday with the graph below :
1. What is causing the horrible dip in torque and power just after 4000rpm? Do R32 graphs general look like this? Could it be a result of the variable valve timing?
2. I have a feeling my DSG's mechatronics unit is faulty , could that cause a loss in power or have a result on the dyno run?
3. The power does look low but if I convert it to coastal power it looks to be around 150wkw and 300Nm which seems right?
The biggest concern is the dip in the graph ... Power was measured at all 4 wheels ...
Passat (B5) :: Makes Horrible Noise - Can't Get It Into Driving Gear
I got this car off of a friend of mine who drove it drunk until the noise from the back wheel was too loud to handle. about 30 miles. he changed the "wheel" put on the spare and drove it for about another month.
during that time, the shifting began to get a little "iffy". he then brought it in to get the brakes done, and as soon as it came off of the lift . it wouldn't go into gear. instead it just makes a horrible noise from the area of the "output shaft" or where i would assume the prop shaft " flange" would be.
that being said. Every once in a while you can get it to go into gear. just by continually putting it from park to drive. and when it goes into gear the noise stops and it drives "fine" but only for about 30 seconds. and then it pops back "out of gear" and makes the noise again.
Ford - Explorer :: 1994 - Horrible Noise From Rear
The last couple of times hauling wood with a trailer, the 1994 Explorer seemed to seriously lack power. Then I noticed there was an awful grinding noise coming from the rear. My guess is that the wheel bearings are shot creating an enormous amount of extra drag, especially with the added load of the trailer. Or what else could it be? How much should I expect to pay to have bearings replaced?
View 9 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: Horrible Clanking Sound When Going Over Small Bumps
The car has begun making a horrible clanking sound when going over small bumps. It sounds like it did when the control arm bushings were bad on my old mkIV. There are less than 5kmi on the car, so I can't imagine any mounts are worn out. It's still under warranty, so I know that it's just a dealer visit, but I'm wondering anyway. It sounds like crap.
View 8 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: 2011 - Flashing CEL / Horrible Misfire Smoke
Just bought a 2011 GTI certified Preowned with 12k miles. drives perfect the first week I have it doesnt make a noise, like a brand new car.
I get in the car about an hour ago to go get my daughter some tylenol and when pulling out I feel the car almost like Die and then the CEL starts flashing and the car starts smoking horrible. no power at all so I limped back the 500 ft to my parking spot.
I am new to MKVI but had a MKV GLI previously. my guess would be coil packs but wasnt sure about the horrible smoking.
Golf/GTI VI :: Noise After Tire Rotation
Second time I've gotten my tires rotated. 20k miles. It sounds like I drive a lifted 4x4 for almost 2k miles now. Service rep says normal, cause of camber, GTI tires, etc. Goes in Wed for 20k service.
View 24 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Clicking Noise When Taking Right Turns?
I recently replaced my driver side axle due to the inner CV joint boot being ripped. Its a 2001 Jetta VR6 with 173,000 miles on it and I have been driving it with a ripped boot for about a year and finally decided to replace the whole axle last night. I replaced it with an aftermarket axle (was on a budget) and the job was fairly easy. Since I did it late at night I was too tired to take it for a test drive so I waited until today. When I was driving it all was well until I took a right turn and I could hear a very distinct clicking sound coming from the driver side wheel well, it is constant throughout the turn.
The noise is only present when taking turns above 20mph and it sometimes even occurs when driving in a straight line. Take note that I have not had an alignment done yet since I had replaced the axle. The car is lowered about 2 inches on Raceland coil-overs that are pretty old and I think they are shot. But like I said the car has NEVER made this sound until I just recently replaced the axle. I am at a loss of what it could be and I am trying to sell the car currently so I would like to get this problem sorted out as soon as possible!
Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Horrible Noise As If No Engine Oil And Eventually Just Stopped
My 2007 hyundai sonota with the 3.3 starting making a horrible noise as if no engine oil and eventually just stopped. ( My son was driving it). The engine oil light did come on! I checked engine oil level, it was fine. I also checked oil filter and it looked good.
You could restart the car and drive it and it would run for 15 -20 minutes before the engine oil light comes on then 5 minutes later it dies. Let it sit and the same thing happens. So I pulled codes and got P-0011 (code of many causes)
I pulled the OCV (CVVT actuator) in the cylinder nearest the radiator (bank 1? not sure which bank this is). Actually it was the only one I could find. It was not easy and it is in a cramped spot almost directly under the intake manifold.
Never the less It tested at 7.8 ohms and it moved when I applied 12 volts. According to Haynes, this number is good and the action when voltage applied is in the correct range.
I am stuck now. Haynes manual implies there is only 1 OCV (CVVT actuator) for this year model, but gets confusing? Is there another OCV I can check, on the other bank near the firewall (bank 2).
Audi - A4 :: 2007 - Rusty Brake Rotors Making Horrible Noise?
Last June I took my 2001 Audi A4 off the road since I bought a more fuel efficient commuter car but I wanted to keep the Audi in the family until my oldest son started driving. That day has come and I'm making the car drivable again. I pulled the battery over the winter and kept it on a Battery Tender. I put it back in over the weekend and the car started up up and runs just fine. The only problem is that the rotors are extremely rusted and make a horrific grinding noise. Is there anything I can do to remove this rust? I assume I can just grind it off with the brake pads but that can't be good for the brakes which, if I recall correctly, are fairly new.
View 5 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: When Driving Hard Car Makes Horrible Shudder And Doesn't Accelerate
I bought a used 2010 GTI with 37k on it. I am loving the ride, more than I even anticipated. It has the DSG, and I enjoy the multitude of ways I can choose to drive this vehicle.
I do have one issue of concern that I would like some feed back on. Occasionally, when driving hard, the car makes a horrible shudder and doesn't accelerate. It's almost as if the vehicle misses a shift and is governing itself quickly and harshly. I haven't had enough concentration to check RPM's when it does it.
It feels horrible, scares me and makes me wonder what I'm doing, what I need to get checked, or if this is something others have experienced.
Pic for good measure.
Golf V R32 :: Slight Wheel Vibration - Tire Noise Above 45 Mph
I have been experiencing a slight wheel vibration from the rear of my R32? I am thinking about replacing my wheels and tires, (continental sport contact 2 is what I have now) I have heard that the continental tire has an aggressive tread pattern because i get a tire noise above 45 mph.
View 12 RepliesGolf V R32 :: Loud Tire Roar Noise At Speed
The tire roar (not engine or wind noise) is unbelievably loud on my car. I drive a lot between San Diego and OC usually at 80+ and it is difficult to have a conversation on the phone and it is starting to drive me a little crazy. I have the all seasons on my car. I noticed a big difference on my S4 and my 550i when I changed tires to PS 2's from the stock Conti's.
View 6 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: Loud Tire Noise On Highway Under Acceleration
Blizzak WS70s? I just got them from a friend and they make a "whiny" noise on the highway under acceleration, seems to get higher pitched the more I accelerate. The sound seems to change under different pavement types so thats why I assume its just a loud tire.
View 5 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: 2011 - Tire Rubbing Noise When First Rolling?
I have an 11 GTI, got it about a month ago new. I noticed ever since I first drove it, when the tires are cold, and I maneuver in slow speeds, I hear a sort of rubbing noise over pavement. It almost sounds like when you drive a car slowly on an inside floor, like on a dealer's showroom - is it normal for them to do this? PSI is at the recommended levels, nothing seems to be rubbing. I think when the tires warm up the noise goes away, and especially at higher speeds it is not there.
View 4 RepliesToyota - Corolla :: 2010 - Horrible Noise While Climbing Up Icy Hill With Traction Control?
2010 Toyota Corolla, 5spd. I was trying to get it up a snowy/icy hill this weekend and, although I succeeded, the car made a very scary noise that I couldn't decipher. Here's what happened:
When the traction control engages, it makes a sound like the ABS engaging. That wasn't the noise that worried me. I was feathering the clutch and trying to massage the car up the slippery incline, and it started making a loud rhythmic banging noise. It sounded like what happens when you're parked and you think the car's off, but it's not, and you take your foot off the clutch. The clutch engages and makes a bang, and the engine stalls. (Not that I've ever done that before.) That's what it sounded like going up the hill, but about twice a second and very steady.
As soon as I heard it, I tried releasing the clutch pedal all the way, I tried feathering the clutch more, I modulated the throttle a bit, but honestly I was 3/4 of the way up the hill after 45 minutes of trying and I didn't want to stop! So I bang-bang-banged twenty feet up the hill or so, then when I stopped at the top the car seemed fine. I've since driven it another 300 miles of city and highway and no issues whatsoever.
Now, I've driven stick for twenty years and dozens of cars and am very comfortable in my own skill. This clutch has always seemed a little screwy since we bought the car, but the dealer mechanic told me (when I mentioned it early on) that it's normal. It's hard to describe why I think it's screwy but it doesn't feel like any other clutch I've driven, new or old. Including, every once in a while, when I'm pulling away from a stop sign in normal (dry) conditions, the clutch will chatter a couple times as I engage it. It's far from a consistent or reproducible problem, and I always wrote it off until this recent episode that sounded/felt similar but much much worse.
Could there be oil on the clutch plates? Could this have something to do with the traction control.