Ford Transmission :: E4OD - Hard Jolt When Shifting From 1 To 2

This has been a problem since I got the truck. It's a 1996 F150 5.8 4x4. It's got about 140,800 miles on it; had about 139,000 when I picked it up. Not sure if the trans has been rebuilt or not. I'm the 3rd Owner. It doesn't matter what temperature it is outside or how far my foot is down on the pedal... Just about every 1-2 shift is accompanied by a little kick/jolt. Going slow..(coasting, about 15mph) and it shifts into 2nd, usually the jolt is harder than hell!

Same goes for when I'm going about 25mph and I put the pedal to the floor It downshifts then comes back up to 2nd gear and wow. It jolts, shakes and shudders. Sometimes (rarely) I don't feel anything when it shifts. But it ONLY and always happens 1-2. not 2-1 either. Furthermore, when I go to put my truck into Reverse it kind of slams into it, with a clunk noise. All fluids have been changed recently and I also put "Lucas Oil Transmission Fix" in it and that didn't seem to change anything. What is going on internally?

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Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Jolt / Rough Start Up When Cold

I've got a 2006 Elantra with 102,xxx miles. When starting the car, especially a cold start, it ignition is rough, sometimes a jolt. It runs fine after that. What might be the issue? FYI, i replaced the spark plugs in August or so.

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Passat (B5) :: Rough Start In Chilly Mornings - Fires Up And Then Seems To Get Choked Up

I just bought a 2005 passat wagon 4motion 1.8t to haul the dogs and future kid around in. Car has extremely low miles (23k) and is pretty much in perfect condition. Love everything about it, except...

It seems to have a bit of trouble starting on chilly mornings (not cold yet, maybe 60f?). It will start, but it fires up and then seems to get choked up to the point of almost dying sometimes, runs a little rough for a minute or so with a throaty exhaust sound and then it perks up and runs fine. I've noticed it tends to be running at a slightly higher RPM when it's running poorly in those first few minutes, and then it drops to normal.

When we bought the car, I quickly realized the temp gauge wasn't working. It turned out to be the temp sensor (seems to be a common problem) and I hoped it would solve the rough start, but it did not.

What could be causing this? We're starting to approach fall/winter, and if it's doing this now I can only imagine what it's going to do in November. I'd like to get this sorted as soon as possible, even though it's not a show stopper right this minute.

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Golf/GTI VI :: Clutch - Little Bit Rough In Shifting

I have a 2010 GTI, and im curious as to how long a clutch CAN last.

This is my first manual car and i had a bit of a rough start the first 30 days. No stalls, just a little bit rough in shifting. Im a "Pro" now as in i dont shift rough, etc.

60-80,000?? Or way less?

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Golf IV R32 :: Hard To Get In Reverse And Shifting From 1st To 2nd Is Very Rough

Lately my R is acting up, sometimes hard to get in reverse and shifting from 1st to 2nd is very rough. I looked at the cables , the left one towards the engine , the rubber bushings seems to be broken, lots of wiggle in there, is that enough to cause this? Is there any adjustments needed on the cables anyways?

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Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2001 V6 - Rough Start / Cranks For A Few Seconds Then Fires Up

Alright I thought changing a fuel filter was fool proof but I changed the fuel filter in my 2001 escape v6. awd and now for some reason it wont start right up like it used too before the filter change. It cranks for a few seconds then fires up and runs perfectly fine it sits for a few hours same issue where as before the filter change it fired up fine every time, what did I do wrong. 2001 ford escape...

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: When Driving For More Than 20 To 30 Minutes Shifting Gears Become Rough

So I have a 2001 VW Jetta Wolfsburg Edition, love the car. So here's my problem, whenever I am driving for more then 20-30 minutes my shifting between gears begins to become more and more rough, like whenever I shift from 2nd to 3rd, it directs me to first gear instead of 3rd and I have to kinda force it into 3rd. This only happens when I am driving for a long period of time, why this is happening? and sometimes when I put it in reverse I get a loud crunch noise but I get it into gear...

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Chevrolet Impala :: 2008 - Engine Power Will Reduce While Driving / Rough Shifting

For the past several months, every now and then while driving the engine power will reduce and the Driver Information Center will display two messages: "Service Stabilitrak" and "Engine Power Reduced", and the ESC and Check Engine dashboard lights will come on. Shifting becomes rough especially between 1st and 2nd gears. After turning off the car for 10 minutes or so, the engine power will be restored and the ESC light goes out but the Check Engine Light remains lit. After a day or so the Check Engine light goes out. Otherwise the car runs normally. This happens at least once on every long trip where I am out on the highway - sometimes multiple times on a single road trip. It does not happen in short trips around home.

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Prius (2004-09) :: Jolt When Petrol Engine Switches Off

I've a 2004 Prius. Had it for 3 years. 40,000 miles. No problems what-so-ever. 55 to 60mpg without any effort.

During the winter I noticed that when the petrol engine switched off - there was a jolt. (It used to be totally imperceptible.) Nothing drastic - I have to be on smooth tarmac to notice.

My Toyota dealer said this sometimes happens in cold weather. However, the weather has warmed up - and I can still feel the jolt.

Don't know if it's connected, by the central display diagnostic check tells me...

EMV. Code: 01-DC. Sub-code: 1C6-F6-1

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Ford - Expedition :: Engine Cold - Fires Right Up / Engine Hot - Won't Fire Right Up

I have a 1999 Ford Expedition with a 4.6L V8, 192K miles. Just replaced spark plugs, wires, and fuel filter. For the last 50K miles or so, it demonstrates the following starting problem:

Engine cold - fires right up.
Engine hot, turned off for a few minutes - fires right back up.
Engine hot, turned off for approximately an hour - won't fire right up (engine turns over same as always but takes several attempts to start).

What is happening and how to repair it?

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F250 - Slight Vibration When Started The Engine - Rough Shifting

The truck is in my Sig 01 F250 5.4

Just got back from a long trip with it. Parked it for 3 days, all was running fine. Went to dinner Sat night and all was great, left the restaurant and as soon as I started the engine I noticed a slight vibration. As soon as I hit 42 miles per hour, it started shaking pretty good. I pulled over and checked under the truck to make sure I did not have anything I was not supposed to hanging down.

Driveshaft looked good, nothing leaking from rear end or tranny. When it does vibrate, the Tach shows the unhappiness as well. This a.m. driving to work it was vibrating at all speeds and shifting was very rough, had a hard time deciding if it wanted to be in second or third gear. I don't think this is drive train issue... When it shutters and sputters at 40ish MPH, its almost like it loses power and I have to let off the gas. and then under power it shakes badly.

I had the super chip settings for performance tow when this started and then I changed it back to stock settings, thinking it might work, which it only got worse. Changing the settings with the Superchip you have to disable the fuel system and I do this by pulling the fuel pump fuse under the hood in the power distro box.

I think the ujoints are still good, the oil and tranny fluid are spot on. Hubs are locked but in 2WD. Had all the front end replaced 15K miles ago. Brand new tires and wheels in Sept, front end alignment done at same time, front brakes were 90% and rear brakes at 20%.

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Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Squeak For A Split Second As Soon As The Engine Fires

Intermittently, perhaps every 20 starts or so, I get this really high pitched squeak for a split second as soon as the engine fires. What it might be?

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Prius (Gen 2) :: Long Delay With Chirping Sounds Before Engine Fires

I've taken on repairing my mother in laws '07 Prius after a drive-shaft broke and once at the dealers the quote was heading towards £2k with the worn discs/pads and leaking water pump added on. The discs and pads were a breeze and a drive shaft should be with me on Monday (it broke off in the outer cv, probably due to being hammered into the hub after a backstreet garage changed the spit boot) but the water pump or should i say coolant is proving tricky. I drained coolant from the rad and back of the petrol engine block and got about 2.5l or 3 quarts. I then removed the leaking pump, virtually no coolant came out of the pump housing and I fitted the new pump.

To refill the system I open the breather on the rad and slowly replaced all the fluid. I also refilled the petrol engine reservoir and put a drop in the inverter reservoir but that had not drained out. I reckon near enough the same amount went back in as came out. I read a post by Pat Wong and started the petrol engine in inspection mode and it seemed to run fine but just cut out after around 4-5 mins.

All along the VSC, ABS, yellow exclamation mark in circle and yellow square with sliding car in warning lights were on but not the big red triangle or yellow engine light. Also, the red exclamation in circle (handbrake?) will not go off. The inspection mode procedure still works but there seems a long delay with chirping sounds before the engine fires. It still runs fine but again cuts out after a few mins. Could it be shutting off due to brake/driveshaft issues or has air crept into the inverter? Maybe disconnecting the battery for five mins will reset the lights?

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Azera TG (2006-11) :: Engine Cranks Over But Does Not Start / Fires Up After Two To Three Attempts

My 2006 Azara has had a no start problem since about a year after we bough it new. The condition is intermittent and is not dependent on outside temperature, humidity or other conditions, It happens when the engine is cold or hot. Sometimes the problem goes away for a week or so then it comes back. It happens with either key.

The engine cranks over but does not start. Usually resolve it by sitting for 10 - 15 seconds then trying again. Sometimes have to do this two or three times before it fires. All other electrical items work ok and the battery has no problem powering accessories. I've had it into the dealer however because it is difficult to replicate, they have a hard time repairing the problem. The first time they neutralized the immobilizer and re-programmed it. The second time, I got a check engine light and they replaced the immobilizer. But the problem continues.

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Volvo :: 1989 740 Wagon Fires But Will Not Start / Engine Instantly Died

I have an '89 740 wagon, Bosch ignition. It will not start. If I spray starter fluid, it will fire, then immediately die. I have replaced already both fuel pumps, noise suppressor/fuel injector relay, fuel pump relays.

I installed a fuse in the fuse box, which was empty when I purchased the car. And the engine instantly died. It did start up when the fuse was removed, and I drove it back across country. The idle got worse until it died and would not start back home.

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Golf/GTI VI :: Engine Would Rev Up Higher Before Up Shifting

I noticed my engine would rev up higher before up shifting which is what I always wanted in "D" after I took back my car from the 20K service. Drivetrain Reprogrammed. Now my car is feels a lot more responsive than before.

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Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Hard Start - Vehicle Sometimes Takes 3 Or 4 Tries Of Turning Key Before Engine Fires Up

Over the last week my GX has developed a strange issue. It sometimes takes 3 or 4 tries of turning the key before the engine fires up. It turns over strongly and quickly but it isn't "catching". The weird thing is, it doesn't happen every time. Here is what I have noticed:

1) Leave the vehicle parked overnight - no issues starting. It starts right up.

2) Crank the vehicle after having only been off a few minutes (like after you run in to pick something up at the grocery store) it cranks right up.

3) Let the vehicle sit for between 1 and 4 or 5 hours and the problem appears. It turns over and over and over but won't actually start. Anywhere between the 3rd and 5th turn of the key it will finally catch and actually crank.

In all cases, once it cranks it runs smoothly and normally with no issues.

I have replaced the battery thinking that was the issue but that did not fix the problem. Also strange is the fact that this problem occurred after I replaced both front door speakers, an operation that required me to have one or more doors open for an hour or so at a time (hence why I thought it might be a weak battery).

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Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1986 - Starter Continues To Turn Over Even After The Engine Fires

1986 ford f150 standard cab, manual trans with 3 plus overdrive.

1989 302 rebuild v8. When trying to start occasionally the ignition continues to turn over..

Even after the engine fires, the starter continues to turn over until I have to disconnect the battery to stop it. Then it fires up fine afterwards what could the problem be.

I'm thinking the starter, or the ignition switch but I also heard it could be the starter solenoid.

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Malibu :: 2004 3.5 V6 Hard Start - Pedal To The Floor While Cranking Engine Fires And Runs

2004 Malibu 3.5 v6. 101,000 miles. In order to get engine running gas pedal has to be pushed all the way down to get it started. Engine will not start by turning key. Car initially starts sputters and then dies. Pedal to the floor while cranking engine fires and runs. Which direction do I go first at. Ignition or Fuel. What should the fuel pressure be with key on engine not running ?

What should pressure be at while running ?

What is the time frame pressure should hold at and for how long ?

Ignition, Coil,Wires,Plugs. Are these the only ignition parts to look at?

Check engine light is on but has leak in exhaust. Exhaust needs to be welded. All parts above are original. Neither Fuel Pump nor Ignition Component have not been changed. Which do I do first ?

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