Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F250 V10 Battery Light Flickers
2004 F250 v10 xtl 260xxx. Started off by using my remote start, truck started up ran for about 5 sec then shut off, then restart itself and shut back off. When I manually started it, it ran fine. I noticed my battery light was on and as I was driving it would flicker. First thing I did when I got home was clean all my connections to see if that worked. Battery light still on, checked my volts on my battery and they were at about 11.8 with a slow but steady drop while truck was idling.then checked my alt, that too was at about 11.9 with a stead drop.
Alt was only about 7 months old and I had a warranty on it so I had it replaced at Napa and had them test it there. Good alt. Installed the new alt charged up my battery and turned it over. Battery light still on and flickering. Checked all my wires for corrosion, checked all my grounds. Everything checked out. Checked my battery again 12.4 with the truck off, cranked it over and it was back at 11.9 with a steady drop and almost the same reading with the alt. I replaced the battery as well yesterday, seeing how it was about 7 years old.
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F250 - Keyless Entry Dies Suddenly
My 'new' 2004 F250 ExtCab SB w/5.4L sometimes 'drops' my keyless entry (key fob) for no apparent reason. Also, when I attempt to do the 'eight turns' of the ignition to get into program mode, it doesn't always work the first time (or second, or third, etc). Is this a common problem?
View 5 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F250 - Battery Light Came On Intermittently?
I have a 2003 f250 super duty with a v10
i was towing a trailer up and down lots of hills and the battery light on the dash came on. there was no effect on the performance right away. as i kept driving into town i was starting to worry if i would make it.
as i pulled into the carls jr parking lot, the ABS light came on, all the gauges shut off and the truck died just as i pulled into a parking spot.
i figured it was the alternator, had it tested at AutoZone (failed twice) so i swapped it out for a lifetime warranty AutoZone one (very small town, nothing other than an AutoZone)
the truck started after being jumped but the battery light was still on. i figured that the bad alternator killed the battery. the battery was 4 years old and they usually only last 3 years in the AZ heat so i bought a new duralast gold.
the battery light was STILL on after that. the Autozone guy ran his test--- engine off- battery tested fine starting---he said something was wrong with the starter (but it cranked awesomely!) running--alternator tested fine
i just can figure out why when i drive down the road i dash light will turn on and off at random times. the truck seems to run fine. I've even been under the hood shaking the wire while i had someone watching the dash and i cant seem to make the light go on or off
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 F250 - Battery Light Comes On Dimly And Flickers When At Low RPMs
I've been having issues with the charging system on my 2005. The battery was 7 years old, so I replaced it. Now, the battery light comes on dimly (and flickers) when at low RPM. I am thinking alternator. I replaced one on my 2002 F150, but haven't done a 250. How hard are they to get to and replace? This is on a 5.4 gasser.....
View 3 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F250 - Battery Light On - Gauges Shut Down - Radio Turn Off?
03 f 250 super duty, my battery light came on and when I accelerate my dash gauges shut down and radio turns off, if I idle or stay under twenty MPH, everything works fine. Battery and alternator test good, lights never dim, any thoughts
View 4 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 Started By Itself Suddenly?
My 1999 f250 superduty with the 5.4 was sitting in front of my house, and started all by itseft, did not have keys in it either and the doors were locked. I ran out thinking someone was stealing it but nope,? As far as I know it does not have a remote start either,i have owned it for the last two years and it has never happened before. It is a lariant edition also .
View 14 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F250 - A/C Wouldn't Blow Cold Suddenly
My 2000 F250 SD 5.4 AWD's A/C wouldn't blow cold suddenly the other day. I confirmed the A/C relay (engine compartment, 3rd down from firewall)was "clicking" but compressor clutch was obviously not engaging with dash switch on Max A/C and engine running. When I take of the 2 wire connector to compressor to see if it is getting power, the truck won't start..if I disconnect the A/C compressor plug while running, the engine similarly quits. I have never had another vehicle do this on me before..I could unplug the compressor on my Jeep GC, for instance, measure 12+ volts with A/C ON w/car running and no problem with Jeep engine turning off.
I have searched for A/C wiring schematic w/o success. I checked every fuse in cab/engine for continuity since I don't know which ones might deal with A/C..jumped hi/lo pressure switch connectors with engine running/A/C ON w/o compressor clutch engaging. Clutch turns easily, have banged it a few times, and air gap looks good. More bizarrerly, I hooked the compressor to a 12V/ground via its 2 male prongs and didn't get the clutch to engage.
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 4X4 2004 F250 - Dash Light Staying On
The light on dash for 4X4 stays on no mater where the switch is placed I have it in 2 wd and it stays on. Where I need to start looking.
View 4 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F250 V10 - Stalling Out - OD Light Flashing
I have an 04 F250 4x4 king ranch with a 6.8 V10.
When I first bought this truck it had a problem of stalling out at stops. You could sometimes hold the brake and gas and push your way through it but it would sputter for a second and try to die and then it was fine once you got going. The OD light would flash, check engine light would come on and it would throw a P0720 code for the OSS. I did some researching and I pulled the sensor in the pumpkin before that because I read that could cause the same problem, so I cleaned it and put it back but it didn't solve the issue. Then found that an K&N air filter can often times clog the MAF and cause the issue so I pulled my air filter and sure enough it was a K&N, I swapped it with a normal filter and sprayed some MAF cleaner and its been running like a top for months... until now.
It started again, gradually at first. It would die when I started to back the truck at a very low speed to load my 4 wheeler. I fired it up and it was good again for a couple more weeks, then I went to hook to a horse trailer and I was having to back up a hill to get to it, and it just kept dying, OD light would flash, check engine light came on. I was in a bind so I just tried wiping off the MAF with a rag, that didn't work, my girlfriend was using the truck and said it kept dying whenever she stopped. I got it home and cleaned the MAF with cleaner really well but the problem persisted. I went ahead and changed my oil, spark plugs(gaped at .052-.054), replaced the IAC(which looked like it had been installed once before so I am guessing someone tried it and when it didn't fix the problem they returned it) and changed the fuel filter. I drove it around and it ran fine, drove it to work and it ran fine, my girlfriend took it for about 15 minutes to run an errand for me and it was fine until she got back in the parking lot and liked to never got it parked again it stalled so much.
So I went back to the drawing board and read that it is rarely the OSS that is the problem but that often times the issue is a bad coil pack. I don't have a scanner nor do I know how the heck to use one. I plan on going out of town at the end of the week and the truck has 194k miles on it so rather then take it to a shop and try to find out which COP was bad I just decided to replace all of them(I know, I know, you should never just start replacing parts). I only had time to replace 5 of them, I took the truck out and again it dove fine for an hour, went through traffic OK. It sat for an hour and when I left it started to die again, I could drop it in neutral and it would fire back up and as long as I gave it just a hair of throttle it stayed running fine, take my foot off the fuel and in a minute it would die again. After I drove for a bit it was fine again. Now I know the problem may yet be in the remaining 5 COP that I must change tonight but in case it is not I wanted to get input on this.
I've read the problem can come from a bad ground, so I took every ground point that I could find under the hood and I cleaned the connectors and took the paint off at the connection site just for good measure. The problem persists. I've read that sometimes a diode can go out on the alternator and cause this problem, I did use my amp meter and I'm checking out at 13 volts while running. I'm not the best with meters so I'm not sure how else to check the diode?
I've also read that taking it to a dealership is hit or miss for them diagnosing the problem, sometimes they find the issue, sometimes they just change the OSS. The only mechanic I trust closed his shop and is now service manager of the Dodge dealership. I'm thinking since this seems to be a common problem that maybe ford might have more knowledge of it then dodge but I trust the dodge dealership more because of who is over it. Either way I know it will sit in a dealership for awhile before it ever gets looked at and if they have to chase any electrical problems then that starts racking up $$ fast.
So what am I missing? I've thought about replacing the MAF since cleaning it the first time solved the problem. When it did this the first time I still had my 01 F250(it never gave me problems like this) and so I took the MAF off of it and swapped them and sure enough it fixed my problem so I switched them back after I cleaned the MAF and like I said it's been running fine until recently. I'd rather not throw money at this by replacing parts and hoping for the best. I've also read about tracing the harness that runs from the sensor on the pumpkin to the OSS and on. That harness runs through all kinds of stuff so I'm dreading that but it will also be a next step. I haven't pulled the OSS because its in a very awkward position on my truck.
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F250 - O/D Lockout Light Came On Steady
I've got an '04 F250 4x4 gasser with a 4R100 tranny. I was driving home from work earlier when I noticed the overdrive lockout light was on. Not flashing, but steady like I'd accidentally locked out the O/D. I pressed the button to turn it off, but it stayed on and the O/D locked out for real. WTF?......I pressed it again, the light stayed on, but the trans shifted back to 4th like it's supposed to. I was near freeway speed, so I kept an eye on the tach for a few miles. Everything looked normal, except maybe the converter lockup seemed a bit sloppy whenever it downshifted/upshifted on a hill. That could be my imagination, though. I was in full AWACS mode by then, watching everything like a hawk.
Then I started wiggling the shifter a bit. I pushed the lever down against the detent, and the light went off. I let it go and it came back on. I did this a few times with the same results. It didn't affect the tranny operation. I pulled the lever back toward me like I was going to shift, and the light went out. I let it go and the light came back on. By this point I think I can rule out any major tranny problems as it seems the problem is in the wiring to the light, not to the O/D lockout circuit itself. I was thinking maybe a short to ground somewhere. What controls the lockout light, never had to deal with one before. I'm hoping for a easy answer before I tear into the steering column and start poking around in the harness.
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F250 - Transmission Light Started Blinking
Driving to work the other day my transmission shifted down and the transmission light started blinking. It felt like it geared down like it was in 4x4 I was doing about 55 at about 2600 RPMs. This has happened twice now and lasted around 2 minutes then stopped and ran great.
View 2 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F250 - High Beam Indicator Light Very Dimly Lit
I was cruising my truck down the road and noticed that my high beam indicator light was very dimly lit. I wondered why this would all of the sudden come on at all if the high beams were not on so I pulled over and took a walk to the front of my truck to check my headlights. Sure enough the passenger light was very dim. (I must assume the high beam indicator light being dimly lit is also an indicator for headlight malfunction/burn out)
I figured out the plug has a keeper piece that is supposed to hold it in the bulb base but it was broken off and missing.
I went to the auto parts store to find some kind of fix. To my surprise they have a replacement plug for my truck. The down side is it costs $95 and it still had to be shipped! I decided I could figure something else out.
After I pulled the four 5.5 millimeter screws out of the headlight housing. I noticed there is enough room on either side of the light contacts to drill a hole thru the plug and the bulb to allow a pin to be placed thru both of them which would keep the plug and bulb socket from coming apart.
These are the pins or keepers I used.
A 1/16" drill bit did the job. I put the new bulb/socket and the plug together and drilled a hole on each side of the plug right thru the socket at the same time far enough back and at a width to avoid the contacts of the bulb socket and plug. (there is a rubber gasket in the plug that should be avoided but if you still knick it as I did you can fill the plug or the socket with dielectric grease that most car parts stores have and it will keep any moisture out but not effect the electrical current, do not use silicone, one day you will have to take it back apart for a bulb replacement or something.)
This is the bulb socket with the holes already drilled and the plug removed. This is what it looks like with the bulb/socket and the plug together and the keepers in place. And the back of the composite headlight housing with the assembly installed.
Make sure you install the bulb/socket and plug with keepers on the housing before you bolt the housing to the truck because there is not enough room to get your hands behind the housing to install the keepers with the housing bolted to the truck.
Since I replaced the stock bulb with a Sylvania Silver star I had to replace the driver side too so I didn't end up with a headlight being brighter or "whiter" than the other. Even though I was incredibly careful I still broke the plug on the driver side too! So now both of my headlights now have this mod on them.
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 F250 Suddenly Lost Ability To Adjust Temp Control Of Heat And AC
My 2008 250 suddenly lost ability to adjust temp control of heat and A/C. I can adjust the fan speed and the defrost/dash vents/foot heater position controls, but no matter how far I turn the cold/hot dial left or right, the temp is the same. Even in the Max and Norm A/C setting, it's the same temp, which is stuck in the hot range.
View 10 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 V10 F250 - Temp Gauge Suddenly Shoots To Max / Truck Goes Into Limp Mode
My F250 with V10 has developed an overheating problem. While driving, the temp gauge suddenly shoots to max, and the truck goes into limp mode. Turning off the truck and ignition, waiting a few minutes, and all seems to be well again - sometimes for only a minute, sometimes for several days. No steam leaking, the water in the reservoir seems to be normal temperature, the radiator is not overly hot, and the AC keeps on blowing ice cold. Me thinks it is not really overheating, it just thinks it is. So where to start? Change the temp sensor first, or the thermostat? It seems the hoses are fairly firm, I don't believe they are collapsing from suction.
View 14 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 - Battery Keeps Dying
I have a 1999 f250 super duty and something keeps draining my battery, I replaced the old one and im having the same problem. What could it be?
View 14 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2013 F250 - Low Battery And CEL
2013 F250. Wife turned the ignition on to roll up the windows before the storm (good thing), but left the switch on. Both batteries dead. I charged them both (although not completely). Started OK but have a check engine light on. Should I just put the batteries back on charge?
View 5 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F250 - Check Gauge Light Comes On When Stopped Or Coming To A Stop
I have my 2004 f250 6.8L. Recently my truck has been having issue with the oil needle. When im stopped or coming to a stop my Check Gauge light comes on and my oil needle drops all the way down. As soon i step on gas it goes right back up. What could it be?
View 7 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F250 - Power Mirror And Turn Signal / Clearance Light
I did some reading on here this morning and ended up at 1A Auto looking for mirrors. I want to make sure I get the correct thing before ordering. I have a '04 250 with factory tow mirrors that are power mirror and turn signal/clearance light. I want to upgrade to the '08 style. Which of these would work? I would think either, but I'm not sure about the wiring harness?
Search Results for 1AMRP01095 - 1A Auto
2008-10 Ford Mirror Pair - 1AMRP01096 at 1A Auto.com
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2007 F250 - Steering Gear / Suddenly Developed About A Quarter To A Half Turn Of Slop
My 07 has developed a steering gear issue.....it suddenly developed about a quarter to a half turn of slop......mechanic checked the front end and found everything to be tight and right so......I ordered a Redhead rebuilt box and will replace it upon it's arrival. My question is How often do these boxes go bad and if and when they do is it at all safe to drive the vehicle with that much play? I have to drive it about 15 miles to get to my mechanic ( far too cold for me to do it at home) and I also plow a couple of yards commercially and will need to use it there in the event of a snow storm.
View 8 Replies