Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2010 - Single Knock When Accelerating From A Stop Light
I have a 2010 Ford Ranger Sport. RWD with the 4.0L. Currently Sitting at 46,000 Miles.
Where I am located, it is very cold. Downwards of 5 Degrees F. I just started noticing a strange sound in my truck. When accelerating from a stop light I hear a single knock, and to my ear it sound as if it was coming from the rear. First thing I did was check the U-Joint, but there is zero play and it is very tight.
After driving quite a lot and unable to diagnose the problem, I part and got out of my truck, only to hear that same noise when I stepped out of the truck. (I am not fat 195b lol). So I sat back down and I heard it again. Did this a few times and consistently heard it. I got into the bed of my truck and started to jump around and got the same knock.
I shook the exhaust pipe to see if it was making the noise, but it wasn't, which makes sense considering while driving over bumps I could not hear anything. I am totally lost as to what this could be....I want to add that I CANNOT feel any difference driving. Feels great.
My ideas on problems are as follows;
-Spare tire
-bushing
-loose bold
-leaf spring (maybe a hanger)
-The cold creating noise like always.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1997 - Barely Runs At Operating Temp
My girlfriend has a 97 Ford ranger that can't make it out of the driveway when it warms up to operating temp. This is what was replaced thus far. Cat, timing belt, plugs and wires, air and fuel filters. It has about 37 psi at the rail, the codes shown were second 02 sensor, and fuel to lean on bank one? I looked thru a few postings but I'm actually at work and can't really spend too much time looking thru much more. The timing was checked about three different times just thinking that was the problem after the new belt was installed. It does idle perfect at all temperatures it just won't go when it warms up. Unplugged the TPS, no change, was thinking electronic ignition module but not sure if it has one or where it is if it does.
View 11 RepliesElantra HD (2006-10) :: 2009 - Malfunction Indicator Light And Horrible Gas Mileage?
I have a 2009 Hyundai Elantra SE, and up until very recently I've had no issues with it, and am very happy with this car. About 2 weeks ago the malfunction indicator light came on. I checked the manual and it said to contact the dealer ASAP to have it checked out, but the car will still run. I've been terribly busy, and this is the first chance I've had to bring it in, so that's the plan for tomorrow. What this could mean, and will any necessary repairs be covered until the 100,000 mile warranty? If there is a repair needed that isn't covered, I definitely don't want to take it to the dealer!
Also, a few days after this light appeared, my gas mileage has been horrible, apparently. I say apparently because the digital mileage range now tops out at 255 when my tank is full; it used to be 336. It costs the same to fill it, and takes the same amount of gas, about 12 gallons. The gauge goes up to above the Full line, but I seem to go through gas so much quicker. Today for example, a trip that normally would cost me maybe $10 in gas, at the most, cost me almost $20. I haven't noticed any leaks, so perhaps this is related to the indicator light?
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1988 - Transmission Fluid Leaking Badly / Truck Barely Moves
1988 ranger, its a automatic 4x4 v6 and is leaking tranny fluid real bad. Truck barley moves because fluid comes straight out...
View 1 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1984 - Stalling When Approaching A Stop Sign Or Light
It's an oldie, 1984, but so far still kicking. 6 cyl 2.8, carb. I took a little couple hundred mile trip a few weeks ago. Rolled back into town no problems.
A few days later I took a ride and the ranger would stall when approaching a stop sign or light. I would hold the pedal down a little to keep it running but it sounded like it wanted to die if I didn't feather the pedal to rev a bit.
I drove a few days later, as I was going down the neighborhood road(25 mph), it acted like it wanted to just die. I mashed the pedal and it had no effect. It didn't stall and eventually I could rev the engine to continue.
It continues to do the same, then will all of a sudden take off like there was never a problem. If/when it does stall again, it can be hard to start until it does start and off I go again like there was never a problem. Other times, it will idle.
Another note: Sometimes when I go to start the engine it will stutter, intermittently turnover. It has done the same thing while actually driving, kind of a jerking deal.
Fuel filter, fuel pump, electrical? I'm going to first check/replace the fuel filter tomorrow.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1983 - Poor Fuel Mileage?
I recently bought a 1983 Ford Ranger Diesel pickup truck (2.2L Mazda engine, manual transmission). The dealer said to expect a little above 30 mpg on fuel mileage but the two fill-ups I've done show an average fuel mileage of 22 mpg. About half of these are highway miles.
I thought diesels are supposed to have good mileage. Is this typical for my year and model truck? Is there any way to increase the mileage? I just replaced the air and fuel filters and also changed the oil and oil filters.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1993 - Check Engine Light Comes On And Truck Will Not Start / Fuel Pump Runs Non-stop
Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start,the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad....
View 2 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: P0136 Code - Horrible Fuel Mileage
2002 F-150 4x4 super crew w/5.4..So I've got the P0136 code, horrible fuel mileage (around 7 mpg just driving to work without hitting very many lights) and the check engine light comes on intermittently, and I get that code. I have borrowed my friends scanner ("Determionator Scan System") and I can see the live data from the 02 sensors. Today I drove around for a while and watched the scanner and the H02 data, and the downstream sensor on bank 1 shows at most, .09 volts, and it also says its detecting a lean mixture. The code P0136 is for this sensor in particular, and I have heard that an 02 sensor should be around 1 volt. The downstream sensor on the drivers side showed around .75 volts at max.
I believe that it is working correctly, or close to it, and I do not get a code for that sensor. So my question is, is the downstream sensor on the passenger side (bank 1) causing the P0136 code and the poor fuel mileage? also, could an exhaust leak cause the sensor to throw a code and not be bad at all? I do have some very minor exhaust leaks, on both sides of the truck..I'm leaning towards replacing that one 02 sensor. The wires and plug connection to that sensor look fine, plus I would think that if there was a bad wire/connection it would not register any voltage at all.. I have to add, the truck runs fine overall after I replaced the intake manifolds last week. It does still idle high, around 1,000 rpm, after coasting to a stop, then after a few seconds goes back down to a normal idle of around 650 rpm. but idles normal upon starting or in park.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Cutting Out When Accelerating
I have a 1987 Ranger 2wd, 2.9, 5sp that feels like it is cutting out when accelerating. The only code in the computer (KOEO) is 67, which according to the manual is neutral drive switch (NDS) circuit open. What to look for? Can the neutral drive switch be the problem?
View 14 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2002 - No Power When Accelerating
I have a 2002 ford ranger with the 2.3l and 5 speed.
Long story short, previous owner adjusted the time because he accidentally got the motor out of time (he thought it had the belt, not the chain). So he had to take the intake, fuel rails, fan, throttle body, etc. Off to get to the valve cover to re-time it with the timing kit. After it was put back together, it ran awful. I bought it, checked the time with the timing light and it was good. I replaced the spark plugs, and then realized he had forgotten to plug the camshaft positioning sensor back in. So I did, and that did the trick. From start to finish, the truck had those issues for about a year before I got it so it sat up for a little while. I have had it for 2 weeks now.
Now the problem...it idled great. But when I took it out for the test run, 1st gear shifted great, but at about 1700-2000 rpm (depending on the gear), it would almost seem to loose power, and then it would pick back up around 2400-2700 rpm like nothing had happened. You can sort of tell in 2Nd gear, but it is very noticeable in 3rd, 4th, and 5th. If i accelerate pretty slow, it doesn't happen. It only if i try to accelerate at a normal rate or if i am trying to get onto the interstate or pass someone. I ran some seafoam in it thinking maybe it just got gunked up from sitting for so long, but that only through an engine code saying my bank 3 was misfiring.
So I replaced the spark plugs (again), wires, and then the coil pack (the coil pack is what fixed it) and that got the code to go away and for it to stop missing, but the problem still was the same. It would take off great, and then it would seem to almost pause, and then pick power back up again. It wasnt feeling like it isn't getting enough fuel, it just wouldn't hardly pick up speed. It almost feels like I am riding a 2 stroke dirt bike. The power band is ehat should be normal on the truck, and before I hit the power band is how it feels when the truck has its little pausing episode. It's that noticeable to me.
So I thought maybe the fuel filter or sensors need cleaned/replaced..so yesterday I replaced the fuel filter and cleaned every sensor around the top of the engine, including the MAF sensor and made sure all bolts were tight and gaskets were good. I don't see and disconnected vacuum lines and none of them looked dry rotted. The only place air can get in that I see is the air filter box. The screws that hold the top half of the (stock) filter box are missing, so it is not sealed.
But what to check next. My only other thoughts are the catalytic converter (which it doesn't act like it's stopped up) or the fuel pump pressure being off. Also, it does sound like a lifter ticking in the motor, but previous owner said he thinks it did that before all these problems.
Also, right before I bought it, it sounded like the ujoint was squeaking (it rarely does it now) and now it has a crackling sound when accelerating at low-mid rpms coming from the middle or the back of the truck. It sounds similar to when you turn your hot vehicle off and the exhaust makes crackling noises sometimes.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2001 2.3 - Missing When Accelerating?
I have a 2001 ranger 2wd with a 2.3. It has a miss when acceleration. There is no check engine light. I have changed: fuel filter. Plugs, wires, crank position. Sensor, cleaned mass air flow sensor. Ran 2 bottles of injector cleaner in it. Still missing???? It runs and idles great. Just has a miss in the lower RPM's 1000-2000 then goes away. I really don't wanna take it to a shop. What do you all think??
View 11 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1987 - No Power While Accelerating
1987 ranger 2.9l... My truck had no power while accelerating. We'll I changed fuel pump and filter. And still no power. I bought a computer and it tells me the map sensor is not at normal vaccum levels. The ego sensor is reading always rich. Egr valve not opening. Knock sensor was was going crazy. And computer couldn't raise engine speed above normal idle. Could all this be because of one sensor or should I just change it all.
View 7 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Whirring Noise If Downshifts From 2 To 1 Or When Accelerating
I have a 2002 4.0 with the 5R55E transmission. My problem is while driving. It seems to have developed in the last few weeks.
The truck has a whirring noise, which changes as it shifts, which leads me to believe its tranny related. The noise isn't like a grinding.
Most noticeable when it downshifts from 2-1, but I've heard it when accelerating too.
I've investigated u-joints, and they are tight. My tranny fluid is not a dark red, and doesn't smell terrible. No shifting issues, except for the infamous 1-2 pause.
I will be doing a test on jack stands this weekend to listen outside the truck.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2002 - Bogging Down Intermittently While Accelerating?
I just bought this truck last week. It has 55k on it, so I'm guessing it sat a lot. It seems to run great, but today on my drive to work it started having an intermittent bogging down when accelerating. It didn't seem to matter if I was accelerating soft or harder, or what rpm I'm at. It also did it when it was cold pulling off of my street and it did it once or twice after 15-20 minutes of driving. It just feels like I let off the gas for a moment, I can watch the tach drop about 500 rpm and then just as quick it picks right back up and is fine for a bit. I don't have any check engine light.
View 5 RepliesTouareg :: Horrible Gas Mileage - No Oil Leaking / Smell
I'm having an issue that I think can be resolved. There are no leaks...no smells...I get roughly 12 MPG.. I drive like an old lady YET gas evaporates like boiling water in my car.
View 16 RepliesToyota - Celica :: Getting Horrible Gas Mileage / Gauge Fluctuate
I have a 2002 Toyota Celica GT and I seem to be getting horrible gas mileage. I have replaced the Sending Unit. Also, I have attached a collage of photos that I was able to capture on my cell phone of what its doing to understand what could be the problem/issue.
View 5 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1995 - Ticking Noise When Accelerating At 160k Miles?
Yesterday I was driving around some back roads and I started to hear a ticking when I accelerated when I left my foot off the gas pedal it went away. But when i put my foot on the gas again it comes back. You really cant realize it when you have the radio on... Ive been experiencing rough idling when I come to fast stops and quickly speed up again.
The ticking seems to only happen after like 20 minutes of driving. Most of my trips are only 10 minutes, to either school or to work so it really doesn't happen very often... Although college will start in a few months (30 minute drive) so I wanna get this fixed before something major happen.
Also on a side note, when going up hills it feels like it has delayed shifting. I really don't want to put in anymore money into this truck...already put $ into it the first year of owning it. I guess the good thing is that I got it keeping my fingers crossed nothing is wrong with the transmission or motor, what is wrong?
*I have a 1995 v6 4.0 XLT ranger with 160,000 miles
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2001 Edge 4.0 5 Speed Auto - Noise While Accelerating
MY 2001 Edge 4.0 5 speed auto has a noise while accelerating. It happens only when truck is first run and disappears after warming up after a few miles. It just turned 1500 miles. Can't figure out if it is from trans or possibly a speedo cable. It goes to the dealer next week.
View 6 RepliesNissan - Maxima :: 1993 - Rough Idle / Horrible Gas Mileage
My daughter has a 1993 maxima SE (3.0 DOHC) that ran ok until one day when she left work and started the car it was running very rough (missing and sputtering). She had the car towed here and I looked it over,it had a lot of visible problems which I have fixed (cracked coil packs,leaking valve cover gaskets, filthy fuel filter,clogged pcv valve, oil saturated air filter,spark plugs burned down to nubs etc, I replaced all those obviously defective parts) but the car still idles very rough, idles too low RPMs (400-500 rpms), exhaust smells like raw fuel and it only gets 5 miles to the gallon on my last test drive.
I removed the intake manifold to get to the rear fuel injectors to see if they might be stuck open and leaking.The car had been sitting for about 5 days with the battery disconnected and when I removed the first injector there was no fuel in the injector or the rail and no pressure in the rail.I left the injector out overnight and the next morning there was fuel all over the top of the engine and in the fuel rail.I put the injector back in and unbolted the rail,I reconnected the battery and turned the key to start the fuel pump.I waited for about 3-4 minutes and did not see any fuel leaking from the injectors.I turned the key off and removed it from the ignition,disconnected the battery and bolted the fuel rail back down.I again removed one of the injectors and there was no fuel in the injector or the rail and no pressure in the rail.After about 2 minutes, with the key out of the ignition and the battery disconnected,I saw fuel start filling the rail and the injector port, so I quickly put the injector back in.
I`m thinking the next step would be to replace the fuel pressure regulator and recheck the injectors for leaks.Am I on the right track here with the pressure regulator? What could be causing the car to suddenly start acting this way, my daughter said the car ran fine on her way to work ( although I hardly think it could have been running "fine" with cracked coil packs,clogged air filter,worn plugs etc)...