Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F250 - Truck Pulls To Right When Driving And Pulls To Left On Braking
My 2003 F250 6.0 pulls to the right when driving at any speed. In order to keep it going straight the steering wheel must be slightly tilted to the left, not much but a little. When the brakes are applied hard it will go to the left slightly if you are not holding the wheel good. Neither of these are terrible, just a nuisance. I'm worried about uneven tire wear too. One front wheel bearing was replaced a few weeks ago. It had this problem before that and still does after. Does this sound like an alignment or maybe something more?
View 13 RepliesFord Excursion :: Pulls To The Right While Braking
Just as the title says I'm getting a good pull to the right when braking. Little background, truck has 155k, rotors and pads replaced 10 days ago, new tires today. Now with the new tires the pull is more pronounced than with the old tires but has been there, which I thought was just worn out rubber, apparently not.
All caliper pins are greased and moving freely, and for kicks I replaced left pins to see if some how they were fouling up, they weren't, still pulling. So my question after searching is maybe the last two culprits are bad caliper or bad hose? I just wanted to bounce this off the board and see if I am on the right track to fix this issue.
Ford - F350 :: When Braking Truck Pulls To The Right Momentarily Then Straightens Out
I have a 2002 F350 4x4 diesel. When I brake it pulls to the right momentarily then straightens out almost immediately. I've heard that this can be caused by bad ball joints, but I just had all four replaced less than a 15,000 miles ago, and I keep them greased regularly(every oil change). The rotors are a bit warped, but would that cause only a momentary pull? Other than that the brakes are good. I'm sure that the shocks are due for replacement. Tire wear/pressure is good. I had an alignment when the ball joints were replaced.
View 5 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Truck Pulls Left When Under Braking
So I've been noticing the truck pulls left when under braking. So, I replaced the front calipers. Now, it still pulls left. When I got home I felt the discs on all corners and found three about the same, barely touchable, and the front left a little warmer. So, it seems its braking more, but its brand new. So, what should I do? They are also pulsing a little.
View 14 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: Truck Badly Pulls Left When Braking Hard
Just replaced break pads and rotors. Inner pad on left side was gone leading me to believe slides were not working properly. Pulled apart, cleaned and greased everything, and replaced pads and rotors. Calipers seem to be working fine. Now when I break hard, the truck pulls badly to the left. When I break softly, it seeks normal. My front end is a bit out of whack and veers just a bit to the left. Do you think this is my issue with the breaking ? I'm getting new tires and an alignment soon but was just curious.
View 3 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Truck Pulls Left Badly When Braking
Truck pulls to the left while braking, pretty bad. So, pulled the front right wheel off thinking the pins are stuck again as last year. Bottom pin was fine, top pin pretty gummed up but not froze so I cleaned it up good, used thin layer of the good stuff, put back together and test drove........same thing. Pulls left upon braking just as bad as before. Caliper pistons seemed fine, didn't take much to compress them either. Would a right rear cause this?
View 14 RepliesPrius (Gen 2) :: Car Pulls To Left While Braking
I put on a new set of tires (X Radial) at Sams Club with installation plan which includes balancing. I also brought the car to the dealer to have alignment (front I guess) done. The car goes a straight line no matter what except it always pulls left if I release the steering wheel when I brake from a high speed.
View 7 RepliesFord - Ranger :: 1995 - Pulls Hard To The Right
I've got a 1995 Ford Ranger that pulls hard to the right. It has always pulled to the right a little, but recently it has been worse. About a year and a half ago I replaced all four shocks, the two front tires, and had all four wheels aligned, but this did not stop the slight pull to the right. I get it back from the mechanic yesterday, and he tells me that there is a little bit of wire showing on the inside or the front drivers side tire.Is there some kind of joint or something in the steering that may be worn out that needs to be replaced? If so, how much does something like this cost to replace?I've been slowly replacing everything on my truck that needs to be replaced as I get the money, but it seems that lately it's just got way more expensive. I know that it's not a cheap fix for something like this, but I just wish it wouldn't happen all at once
View 2 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Radio On By Itself - Battery Draining Severely?
The other day just after a lightning storm, my '02 F450 diesel's radio started playing all by itself with no key in the truck. Now my batteries are being drained severely but can't figure out why or how.
View 14 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: Pulls Left When Braking After Struts Replaced?
Could my strut replacement have anything to do with my 2009 pulling left when I brake.
View 6 RepliesHyundai - Accent :: 2005 - No ABS / Car Pulls To Passenger Side On Braking
I have uneven pad wear on the front discs. The passenger side has about 1/8" pad left, while the driver's side is almost new. The car pulls to the passenger side on braking.
I've had a bad hose on a different car which caused a caliper to lock (and actually lit the pads on fire!), but both calipers are moving when the brakes are applied.
What I'm trying to figure out is how to determine which side and component is defective. It seems to me that a partially blocked hose or iffy caliper on the driver's (unworn) side could cause it to have low power. How do I diagnose this?
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2000 - Pulls To Left Real Hard?
My 2000 ranger in 4x4 high never did this. And in 2wd it doesn't pull at all...
When in 4x4 high it pulls hard to the left ?????? is left not working? It has automatic hubs ...
Ford Excursion :: 2001 - Acceleration Pulls Left / Deceleration Pulls Right
2001 Ex 7.3 4x4 with 4" lift (6" with 37" Pro Comp tires)
All new front end steering components.
All new Shocks (bilstein)
All tires properly inflated to same PSI
All new brake rotors, calipers, caliper mounts, and pads.
When under hard acceleration the vehicle pulls to the left and I have to compensate by steering to the right. Under deceleration the vehicle pulls to the right and I have to compensate by steering to the left.
I am about to change all four brake lines to Braided Stainless Steel lines, replace all leaf spring bushings with polyurethane, and install a rear anti-sway bar. I'm going through this methodically enough or am I just building a brand new truck one part at a time?
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1988 Bronco II - Steering Pulls After Hard Left / Sight Pop?
I've been replacing my steering components over the past month and have fixed all the previous issues other than this one that's got me stumped. After I make a hard left the steering will pull left (very hard) until I either turn the wheel right or hit a bump. Sometimes when going immediately from a left turn to a right turn (or vice versa) I can actually feel a slight pop as it starts to pull.
The order of repairs thus far has been: new power steering pump, new inner & outer tie rod ends, professional alignment, new steering box with both lines. The shop and I both agree the ball joints are good. I've jacked my truck up by the frame and removed the wheels to check for steering/suspension play but have not been able to find any. 180k miles on the chasis.
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Violent Chattering From Rear Axle With Either Light Or Normal Braking
Truck is a '99 2WD with drum rear brakes. 81K miles. I rebuilt the rear brakes due to a leaking wheel cylinder. The old shoes were not completely gone, but were worn evenly - everything looked normal.
Not a professional wrench, but I've been re-doing my own drum brakes since the '60's, so it is not rocket science to me. Still, as a precaution, I did them one side at a time so as to have reference point, and also snapped a few cellphone pics just to be safe.
Replaced both wheel cylinders, all hardware, and of course the shoes. Gravity bled the cylinders first, followed by the old tried-and-true, wife in the driver's seat, "down-and-hold, now up" routine. Adjusted shoes to just contact drums lightly, and buttoned it up.
The problem is that I'm getting a violent chattering from the rear axle with either light or normal braking. The chattering is worse as the brakes warm up - shakes the whole truck. At first I thought I had a bad rear ABS sensor, but then I did a couple of stops just using the parking brake, and got the same chattering.
Now I've pulled the drums off to re-check. There is nothing loose, nothing out of place, nothing leaking, but there was a heck of a lot of brake dust in there and the lead shoes on both sides were noticeably more worn than the trailing shoes - and I've driven maybe 100 miles since the rebuild.
You can't reverse these shoes, since the trailing shoe has a peg to hold the automatic adjuster, so that is not the issue. The drums were turned less than 1000 miles ago, so I did not have them re-done at this point.
I had my "assistant" partly depress the brake pedal while I had the drums off to confirm that the cylinders were expanding both shoes, and they are.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Brakes Normal Under Light Braking But Weak During Fast Stop
My truck is a 2004 F350 6.0 as with most of the ford diesels from this era it has hydro boot brakes.
Under normal braking the truck felt fine and the brakes behaved as they always have. However if you where to depress the brakes hard, as if making an emergency stop, the brakes would not lock up in the way they did when I bought the truck two years and 80,000km ago. The problem was slow to appear and at first I blamed it on the larger tiers I was running (stock 2012 F350 wheels and tires (yes the offset is wrong)) but after switching back to my stock wheels for the winter I knew that something was not right. It was something I could live with, it did not make the tuck unsafe it was just that it did not stop as well as I knew it could and this avowed me. I replaced the front and rear calipers and when that had no effect I swapped out the master cylinder this still made little difference.
I drove the company truck all of last month (2008 GMC 2500 Duramax) and when I got back in mine I realised that I had to chase down the problem. I did a lot of reading online and after thoroughly flushing and bleeding my brake system I narrowed my problem down to either the hydro booster or the power steering pump. The plan we came up with for diagnosing was:
1. Thoroughly inspect for PS/Hydro boost and brake fluid leaks following the procedure found here Hydro-Boost Power Assist Systems: Operation Diagnosis and Repair
1a. Consider bleeding the brakes as a bit of trapped air would cause your symptoms.
1.b Consider flushing the PS system. Some suggest this works with tough steering.
2. Have a shop check the PS pressure is within spec. (assuming this is cheaper than buying the tool or just replacing the pump) If it is low, replace the PS pump.
3. If PS pump is fine, or is replaced and the problem is still there, consider replacing the Hydro booster.
It is not super complete but it was a place to start. We checked for leaks and found nothing. The pedal would not sink under braking but would say firm meaning the brake system was free of leaks.
I began a rudimentary test of power steering pump. With the truck in the drive way I could easily turn the steering wheel however, applying the breaks about half way would make turning the wheel imposable. This led me to believe the power steering pump was starting to go. The next step would be to have the pump tested using a power steering pressure gage or take the truck to a shop to have it tested. I found the pressure gage to be more expensive then the new pump so went that way. With 350,000km on the truck I figured it was not a bad thing to do even if it turned out to not be the cause of the problem.
It is a bit tricky to get the power steering pump out but after pulling the radiator line under the truck I could drop the pump out the bottom. The new pump went back in the same way and after a full flush and bleed of the system it was time for a test. What a difference! The truck stops like the day I got it. If your symptoms are like mine I would recommend you check the power steering pump. If it is the problem it is a lot cheaper then replacing a master cylinder or calipers.
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: ABS Kicks In During Normal Braking
I have a 2005 Auto Santa Fe and every now and again the ABS light keeps coming on and also the ABS kicks in during normal braking.
The car was serviced and all brakes changed last Aug. What may be causing the problem.
Camry :: Losing Control While Braking Moderately - Normal?
Ive noticed while driving my 2k7 XLE 3.5L that when I brake moderately it is a very smooth transition until it lets up a little bit which gives me the feeling of losing control slightly. It is really weird to me that feeling of it "letting go" after it already was braking smoothly. When I brake hard it does NOT do that, which I find odd... Is it a normal occurrence for this particular ABS to act like that?
View 5 RepliesPrius (2010-12) :: Louder Than Normal Regenerative Braking 27 To 7 MPH
Car makes louder than normal regenerative braking (Hybrid Sound). Seems normal when braking at high speeds... then when the speed drops below 30mph the sound is noticeable louder. See Video for example sounds while braking (17, 35 and 50 seconds into the video are most notable).
[URL] ....
Car drives normal other than the regenerative braking sound... Car was involved in a front end accident. Damages were repaired and seem minor. Front Bumper cover, hood, Radiator, Fans, RF Fender. Front cross member and other frame areas look untouched.