Ford Fuel System :: 1987 F150 Fuel Pump Runs After Key Is Off?
Why the frame mounted fuel pump might run after the key is turned off? Then when you turn the key on it may or not run. If it does run it keeps running. shouldn't this shut off after pressurizing the line? is their a pressure switch in the pump that's failing? This has the 3 pump system...
View 4 RepliesFord Fuel System :: 1987 F150 - Fuel Pump Keep Running Even When Key Is Off
I have an 87 F150 4x4 4.9L EFI with a single tank. Fuel pumps keep running even when the key is off. I tried swapping relays but the problem still exists. The engine will start and run OK for about 15 secs. then die. I installed a new low pressure pump, high pressure pump seems to be OK. I also installed new fuel filters. I dont want to just throw parts at this truck, where do I go from here?
View 4 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1987 - Fuel Pump Won't Shut Off
1987, 2.9 ... I got all my wiring repaired and replaced both the intank pump and the high pressure pump, for a few days it would fire right up as soon as you hit the key but it had a miss (the pumps shut off after a second or two with the key on "RUN"). I tore the throttle body off and cleaned all the carbon out of it, when I put the throttle body back on I noticed that the engine to body ground was loose so I ran a new piece of 4ga from the intake manifold bolt to one of the master cylinder bolts.
After I did this I went to start the truck and no go, the fuel pump turns on with the key but then it wont shut back off until you turn the key off. if you try and start the truck it will crank but wont fire, after about a half hour of cycling the key and cranking it will start to put a little bit then a few tries later it will start but sounds rough when it first fires. I thought it may be a stuck injector so I ran some cleaner through the Schrader valve on the rail. Still have nothing, both pumps do run but still don't shut off after a few seconds like they should and now it wont even try to start.
Ford Fuel System :: 1987 F150 Will Not Rev Over 2000 Rpm Even When Idling
I have an 87 f150 inline 6 efi. The truck will not rev over 2000 rpm even when idling. It has a new fuel filter. What this could be?
View 2 RepliesFord Fuel System :: 1987 - Remove And Reinstall The Electric Connector?
My little '87 2.9 Ranger has little metal clips that hold the electrical connector onto the injector......how do I remove and reinstall the electric connector?
View 2 RepliesChevrolet :: 1992 - At 60 - 65 MPH Backfires / Lack Of Enough Power To Downshift
I have a 1992 Chevy C30 Step Van. V-8 with automatic overdrive transmission. When driving in hilly terrain at around 70/75 mph, the van will lose some speed and when it gets to about 60/65 mph it backfires and seems to lack enough power to downshift. I've tried not using the overdrive selection and it does seem to do a little better, but stil backfires some. I've changed rotor and distributor cap and tried higher octane fuel.
View 2 RepliesOldsmobile :: 1987 Delta 88 Died And Would Not Restart / Backfires Sometimes
1987 olds delta 88, 106,000 miles Pulling out onto the road one day, my car died and would not restart. Was idling fine, happened when I hit the gas. Here are the things checked. Ignition control module and coils checked ok at autozone. I replaced the cam and crank sensors, the coolant temp sensor, the plugs and the tps. Most of the time it will not try to fire, it backfires sometimes. I has started twice, but then would not restart. I have spark and fuel pressure, but will not even fire with starter fluid.
View 12 RepliesFord Fuel System :: 1987 F250 - Swapping Out Mechanical Pump For Electric?
I just purchased an 87 f250 w/ a carb'd 460. I purchased it with the mech fuel pump swapped out to an electric. The previous owner states that they gave him the wrong electric pump and I should exchange it for a different one. The reason for him putting it on was to get it running for me to hear it run.
My question: Is this even recommended? I wouldn't mind staying with an electric pump up front. If it is recommended, what would be a suitable pump to replace it with, as in flow/feeding characteristics?
Also, it only feeds from the rear tank, which also has a bad fuel pump. I'd like to get both tanks functioning again. I'd rather not deal with the tank switching valve due to what I've read about them. Has anyone ever hooked up a manual valve and just switched tanks that way? I've searched this site extensively and couldn't find anything. I know I'm not the first to have thought about it.
Ford Fuel System :: 1987 F150 - Leaking Started From The Rear Tank
1987 f150 302 4spd 4x4. When I bought the truck 4 years and 12K miles ago the orig owner had just installed a new front pump (in tank) and new switch thing on the frame rail. He said shortly after that the rear pump stopped working so he just ran off of the front tank. That's what I've been doing also except as of the last few months it has started to leak from the rear tank (I don't ever put gas in it and was empty when I bought it) and dies periodically from time to time? Where the leak could be coming from. I do suspect the dying has to do with the leak though.
View 3 RepliesFord Fuel System :: 1987 - Loss Of Power / Black Smoke And Also Dying When Stop
So my 1987 Econoline Van was running fine until recently we noticed loss of power going up the slightest of hills and it will only hit 55 max with gas to the floor. Its shooting out black smoke and also dying when we stop. We are getting very poor fuel economy as well.
We got a tuneup, oil change, new air filter, etc. We also had a few electrical issues due to a short we thought we had fixed completely... So I'm wondering if it could be the timing? Cause it'll idle low, then high, then bog down and lose power...
Also was thinking maybe bad fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump....but how would I check this? And since we did experience a short, could we have blown a sensor too?
Ford Fuel System :: Fuel Pump Does Not Shut Off When Turn The Key On
Have a 95 Bronco with 5.8, I turn the key on and fuel pump doesn`t shut off. Changed fuel pressure regulator still no shut off. Changed relays, no luck. Have 38 pounds pressure with key on, but no start. Checked spark just in case, and have fire. Don't know what to try next.
View 10 RepliesFord Fuel System :: Light Won't Shut Off After Draining It 3 Times?
I need the torque specs for the bolts that hold the cover on the water seperator. I'm taking it off to see if I can clean the water sensor. My light won't shut off after draining it 3 times.
View 1 RepliesElantra MD (2010-15) :: 2012 - 3 Small Backfires For About 2 Seconds After Engine Shut Off
This just started last night. 2012 e ltd goes "pfft" 3 times after shut off. Sounds like 3 small back fires about 2 seconds after I shut off engine. Very soft sound. The third one is not quite as loud as the first two, and if the door isn't open, you can't hear it. Seems to be coming from under the engine cover, near the throttle body.
Let me add the mileage has dropped from about 26.9 in town to 23.6.
Passat (B6) :: Clunks Down Into Gear On Downshift Occasionally
My wife's been complaining off and on about a clunking noise with her '06 Passat 2.0T I couldn't get it to replicate; maybe three complaints on the last 10 months? I wrote it off to the transmission, as it occasionally clunks down into gear on downshift; done this since new, maybe twice per year.
Anyway, she just got the tires rotated last week. And oil change has been at the dealer last six months.
That's why I was shocked when I was changing the front pads tonight. I removed the left wheel, and a fractured sway bar was staring me in the face, end link dangling loose.. The brake was far from fresh...lots of rust and crust on the brake.
I can't see whether it was hit, other than the brake. Everything else looks good. I'm just floored that VW dealer, and especially Discount Tire, didn't catch this during routine work.
Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Popping Noise Coming From Exhaust When Downshift
Okay so with my old Accent I had the same Magnaflow exhaust I have now on the Elantra. Sounds identical with one exception; When I'd down shift with my Accent I'd get some popping coming from the exhaust. I get no such sound with my current set-up. Now I know some people don't like it but I do.
So my question is simple... Would removing the resonator (assuming the Elantra's have one) or doing something else to the exhaust give me back my wonderful popping sound?
Ford Fuel System :: Location Of Check Valve That Maintains Fuel Pressure On The System?
I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1999 - M5OD Popping Out Of Third Gear Occasionally
My M5OD in my 1999 Ranger 4x4 with 3.0 occasionally pops out of 3rd gear. I think it does it only under light throttle or coasting. Also some vibration, especially in 3rd gear. Once in a while the gears grind when shifting into third. Truck has 145,000 mostly highway miles. Frequent fluid changes with Redline D4ATF.
What could be the cause, bad synchros ? How hard is it to remove the transmission and make a repair for something like this, what kind of special tools, etc. I assume a transmission jack would be real useful, what else would I need other than the normal wrenches and sockets ? Is there a good shop manual recommended for doing this repair ?
LeSabre :: 1987 Occasionally Won't Start Without Battery Disconnect / Reconnect
I have a 1987 LeSabre that will not start sometimes and if I disconnect the battery and let it sit about five minutes and reconnect, it starts right back up. Then it seems to be fine for a few days, then won't start again. When it is trying not to start, it cranks, but when you let go of the key it dies again Unless the gas is continuously pushed down.
If you keep trying to start it without adding any gas, it seems like it cranks less and less each attempt? There don't seem to be any other problems with this car at all and no real warning that this is going to happen. I can't even think of things that have been the same each time it happened. It has happened when car was warm, happened when cold. I guess it has happened after letting the car get below 1/4 tank and then refilling (sometime within a day of a fresh tank it does this, maybe?)
Toyota - Corolla :: 1987 - Power Loss While Occasionally Backfiring
I recently bought an 87 Toyota corolla fx 16 as I totaled out my other car hitting a deer when I test drove this car I had no issues on this car it had high miles at 197k but it seemed to purr like a kitten it wasn't until I started to drive it back and forth to work that I noticed the issue when the car is cold it runs and idles fine a little bit of shift hesitation but figured that might be a dirty transmission filter as the fluid appeared discolored however when the car warms up it shifts fine and begins to cut out and the Rpms dip under 1k every 20-30 seconds.
It becomes worse when the car is in gear driving down the road it randomly cuts out and seems to lose power while occasionally backfiring and if I come to a stop and leave it in gear it will die if I don't feather the throttle just right on takeoff or press it to the floor when I press it to the floor it's slow on take off and sounds like a mix of backfiring and missing and then suddenly takes off like a bat out of hell once I hit about 20 mph. When it dies the check engine light comes on but as soon as I start it it goes back off. I've already changed a bunch of the routine stuff since the car sat for a year such as fuel filter, air filter, plugs, wires, coil, rotor, valve cover gaskets, and replaced nearly all the vacuum lines trying to figure it out thinking its something simple.