Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: FX4 Surges While Trying To Maintain A Steady Speed During Power Delivery To Wheels
Problem I'm having, when in overdrive my 04' F150 FX4 5.4 Triton surges while trying to maintain a steady speed during power delivery to the wheels, it causes a shuttering and bucking effect. If I push the button to turn the O/D off, the RPMs rise and problem goes away. During the problem no CEL illuminates and tach stays constant. Fluid condition & level are okay. (not burnt) I'm completely baffled since there is no code in the ECM to point me in the right direction. I do use the truck to occasionally tow my 5k lb boat & trailer. When I began towing I did not know to turn the O/D off and put some miles on towing in overdrive, I know now that was not good for the tranny.
View 7 RepliesFord - Escape :: 2003 - At Start Up Won't Hold A Steady Idle
2003 Ford Escape V6 ... So . . . my car runs fine almost all the time and I love it. But every couple of weeks when I start her up she won't hold a steady idle. Unless I hold my foot on the accelerator pedal she dies right out. I have had to limp home as she dies at each stop light. I have tried disconnecting the battery to reset the computer but it never seems to work. On the drive home, there will be episodes of misfiring after which the computer will reset itself. (The dash instruments go to zero and then back into normal range while I am driving down the road!) After a couple of resets, the car drives fine the rest of the way and continues fine for a couple of weeks (except for some misfiring at idle).
And at cruising speed there is a chatter behind the dash which sounds like its from the computer--very intermittent and only at around 45-60 mph--it only lasts a few seconds and goes away when I changed speed. The car is great in every other way after 104,000 miles. In the past 12 months, I have changed the thermostat, the plugs, the PCV, the fuel filter, and the air filter. A year ago both Brake Sensor rings cracked so I replaced both CV shafts. The crankshaft position sensor code came on twice and I replaced it twice. I do all my own work but I am stuck in a rut right now.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Stumbling / Running Rough - Check Engine Light Is Either On Steady Or Flashing
Got an 07 Screw with only 50,000 miles. Yesterday, wife drove it home from work and said it would only do 45mph and didn't sound good. No warning lights were on, she said. I test drove it in the evening and it ran totally fine. Today, she drives it to work and said it ran real rough and "Check Engine" light was on. I picked it up from her work and it idles very rough and slow, and once you hit about 2000 rpm, it runs decent, maybe even normal. Below that, it stumbles and engine doesn't sound right. "Check Engine" light is either ON steady, or flashing. I don't have a code reader, so its likely going to the Ford Dealer Monday. Is there any way to read the code without a reader?
View 11 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: 2008 - Surges Forward When Parked?
I owned a 09 Prius for 8 weeks, and after a total loss accident, we replaced it with a 08 Touring model. I have never experienced anything like this with the 09, but have multiple times on the 08 (though no real rhyme or reason as to when/why)
The originally happened the night we picked up the 08. I stopped at target to pick up some milk while the wife sat in the car. the car was left in ready mode. when the ICE engaged the car "surged" forward and was enough to startle my wife (who was the usual driver of the 08) enough for her to think the car was not in park (which it was)
We tried to recreate it after i was finished at the store, and while the car did rock forward, it was not as pronounced as the first time (though much more then We feel the car should move upon the ICE starting.)
Took the car back to toyota, and they preformed a full inspection and stated that everything was within toyota's spec, and to keep an eye on it if it were to happen again.
Well it has done this about 5 times in the last few days. The Dealer is looking in to it.
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: RPMs Drop / Surges Over Bumps Only - CEL Flashes On
So I know there has been lots of posts on surging issues and how to troubleshoot. My truck is a 97 f150 4x4 xlt 4.6l v8. I have noticing surging and dropping in my RPMs lately. No CEL. I have kept a journal when I notice when it happens. I only have issues when I am driving around 40-50 mph and if I go over bumps/pot holes/rough spots in roads or when I'm braking over bumps/pot holes/rough spots, my truck surges/RPMs drop CEL flashes on and off only during these instances. Makes me think something could be loose or something causing this. It has stalled at times when having to brake fast (yellow light, etc.). Where to look first? 1997 F150 4x4 4.6 V8...
View 1 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 - Bucks And Surges After Start Up / RPMs Fluctuate
After start up it bucks and surges, acts like it is starving. RPMs fluctuate. Once it fully warms up and driven a little bit it clears and runs normal. This all began after the alternator went bad and battery warning light came on. Batteries never went completely dead, but could low batteries effect sensors or control module. This morning it was difficult to start, not low battery problem, but a lot of bucking and black smoke. I changed the fuel filters and a little better. New air filter last week when alternator was replaced. No codes have appeared.
View 2 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F350 RPMs Surges When Going Uphill With A Load
1999 F350 7.3 Super Duty surges when going uphill with a load. The only time we drive it is when towing the horse trailer - also has a camper on.
The truck doesn't physically surge, just the RPM gauge goes up and down and along with it a humming noise.
Also, What conditions should I engage the towing button on the end of the gear shift? I've heard several answers. Should it be engaged when towing or off?
Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Tach Surges 500 RPMs When Let Off Gas
Driving at steady speed, doesn't matter what speed, let off gas and the tach surges 500 rpms and the car keeps going on it's own for a while. also pulling a hill at freeway speed car bucks like a spark plug miss, but not with the cruise on and engaged. smooth as silk then. 2009 Sonata 4 cyl, 30k miles.
View 1 RepliesChrysler - Towncountry :: 2008 - Stalling Out / RPMs Will Drop To Zero And Gas Pedal Is Loose
I have a very specific problem with my 2008 Chrysler Town and Country. It has happened 4 times in the past few months and the dealership is unable to replicate the problem, so they tell me there is no problem. When I am decelerating/coasting the traction control light on the dash will come on, the power steering will go out, the RPMs will drop to zero and the gas pedal is loose and has no effect, and then the power brakes will go out. All the electrical still works, I muscle over to the side of the road, turn it off, wait a few seconds, turn it back on, it starts up just fine and I drive off with no problem.
The first three times it happened I was on the same stretch of road (which I dubbed the Bermuda Triangle Road), I was going 25 mph, the road is fairly level, the pavement was dry and it was above freezing. The fourth time was on a different road, but still level, there was snow and it was below freezing but the road was clear, and I was going about 33 mph. Each time the car had been sitting in my garage for at least a couple of hours, and it happened only a few minutes after leaving the house.
Ford - Explorer :: 1997 - Just Crank / No Start Unless Hold The Gas Pedal To Floor
I'm working on a 1997 4.0 ohv and it has a hard start condition on first start up. any after that it will just be a crank no start condition unless you hold the gas pedal to the floor. Replaced the camshaft actuator, plenum gaskets, coolant temp sender and thermostat, fuel pressure is normal.
View 5 RepliesFord - Suspension :: 2007 - Runs In High RPM / When Put Car In Park Seems Like Gas Pedal Hold Down Slightly
My 2007 Ford Focus runs in high rpm. When I put the car in park it sounds like someone is slightly holding gas pedal down. I have to use brake when on road more frequently. Vehicle will run over 25 miles per hour without touching gas pedal.
View 2 RepliesPassat (B5) :: At Idle Car Surges From About 800 - 1200 Rpms / Error Codes
I have a 2001 Passat GLS 4 cylinder. At Idle the car surges from about 800-1200 Rpms. seems to run fine while on the gas. but always surges while not on the gas. The check engine light is on, and autozone gave the following codes :
P0411
P0102
P0135
Passat (B5) :: 2000 - RPMs Moving A Bit Up While Cruising At Steady Speed
Car runs just fine except I do notice the RPM's moving a bit up while I'm cruising at a steady speed. Almost as if the clutch is slipping. It's an Auto, btw.
View 2 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F250 - Pedal Slowly Go To The Floor When Hold Down Brake For Long
I don't know what's going on maybe some body can shed a little light on this. If you hold the brake pedal down for a long period of time you can feel the pedal slowly go to the floor. So no problem I'll change the master cylinder bleed everything brand new fluid. Don't drive it much we let the sister in law drive it we'll I jump back into it the other day to go to Home Depot and once again I notice it still does it. Could the hydra brake booster be bleeding by or what's else could be causing this it's driving me insane. I really can't imagine the hydra booster causing a problem but it's new to me. I was thinking about bleeding the brakes again thinking there maybe there's air but I have run 2 bottles of brake fluid through how much more??
View 8 RepliesGTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Surges At Low And Mid Pedal - ABS / Triangle And Front Brake Pad Lights On
I have just purchased a VW GTI 337 with 194k on the odometer. The car has a few issues, I have listed the issues by importance. The car came with a stage III ARP turbo kit installed. I just don't know if it's the stage III or stage III+. The car seems to be running okay but it seems like it's lacking the power. Meaning that I should be feeling more. Could it be that car seems to be in some sort of limp mode?
1. The car surges when I am at the low and mid pedal. But, not when I am wide open throttle. Seems like to me that the car is hesitating until I give it a lot of gas. I have changed spark plugs and coils have been replaced by VW dealer for free.
2. ABS light is on and stays on, does not blink just stays on.
3. ASR button will not work. When pressed in it will not light up or show that its activated.
4. Left brake pad or sensor is not plugged in because it's missing the connection. Looks like someone cut it off for some sort of reason.
5. A light that has a triangle with a circle surrounding it, is on. The light is in the cluster.
6. The front brake pads light is on, this is also in the cluster.
Golf IV R32 :: RPMs Rise To About 1300 Then Drops To About 300 And Back Up To 1200 Steady On Cold Start
It started snowing going down to 10-15 degrees during school hours. and whenever i go to turn my car on it starts but immediately the RPMs rise to about 1300 and then immediately drops to about 300 then immediately back up to 1200 but stays steady until it warms up then drops to normal about 700. i understand the cold start when it idles high until it warms up but why does it drop then come back up?
View 3 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Missing At About 1100 RPMs
My 2007 5.4 Triton developed a miss. Code came up knock sensor at first. Changed knock sensor, did plugs, and coil packs. When we did the plugs, I was in town, and all of a sudden the truck just went crazy and started running like total crap. Was smooth up until this point. Spent three days trying to figure it out, and turns out one of the plugs went bad. Had to drive it like that back to the shop, and to work a couple times if that might have caused another problem. After that was fixed it ran like a champ.
Put Accel coil packs on. I had a sulfur/gassy smell coming through the air vents, and it progressively got worse, and the truck started missing again. I put the stock coil packs back on and the smell went away, and the previous miss was back, but wasn't as bad as the Accels. Brought the Accels back and ordered a set online, and installed them. Fixed the miss for about a week. Now it's back, and really prevalent at about 1100 RPMs. I swapped each coil pack today with a good one, and no change, so I don't think it's coil packs. I'm so confused and bummed over this... is it cam phasers? The truck is at 91k miles...
Toyota - Camry :: 1998 V6 Jerks And Hesitates With Steady Pressure On Gas Pedal
I have a 1998 Toyota Camry v6 with about 90k miles on it. When I am driving and hold the gas pedal steady the car jerks and hesitates. If I press down on the gas I can power through the problem. It also does this when I set the cruise control. There is no check engine light on.
View 4 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Misfire Under Load At 40 - 60 MPH While In OD Or At Higher RPMs At WOT
I have a 2006 Ford F150, king ranch, 4x4, super crew 135k miles. I bought the truck and shortly after noticed the miss under a load at 40-60 mph while in OD, or at higher RPMs at WOT, but never a CEL. Well 3 months went by and I couldn't take it anymore so with lots of research I decided to change the plugs. Ran seafoam through 2 tanks of fuel prior to this job to break up the carbon in hopes of none of the plugs breaking.
All 8 plugs came out with no issue and I replaced them with the Motocraft SP 515s (old ones were very nasty and brittle, most likely the original). I put copper anti seize on the end that goes through the channel in the head, however none got on the end near the electrode, and also on the threads. Put it all back together and it had the worse misfire an pretty much not drivable....flashing CEL and codes p0308, p0355, p0356. So I decided to buy 8 new coils as well, got all 8 of them on and now the truck is drivable but the miss is still there (no CEL).
Feels like maybe just one cylinder and I believe I got it pin pointed to cylinder 8. I put a vacuum gauge on it and unplugged the injectors 1 at a time and cylinder 8 is the only one that there is no change while unplugged. So I switched out the coil thinking maybe I got a bad one, still does it. My COP electrical plug has 12v Constant and also confirmed with an led it is getting signal. The injector is ticking or pulsing as i confirmed with a mechanic stethoscope. What am I missing????? Today when I get off I plan pulling the spark plug, checking for carbon tracking, check compression, check actual visual spark, and pull and clean the injector.