Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Upper Strut Bolt Removal
I am in the process of installing a 6" pro comp lift on my 04 supercrew 4x4. Things were going good until I got to the upper strut bolts. Trying to remove the 3 nuts, one came off on the passenger side. The other 2 just spin, the bolt and nut. Haven't tried the drivers side yet. The only idea I had was making a notch in the top with a dremel tool and small cutting wheel for a screwdriver but my dremel tool smoked..
View 5 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Upper Control Arm Replacement
I have to replace the upper control arm on my 05 f150 4x4. I've been looking around the site and didn't see anything. Is there directions posted anywhere on the procedure? or if the strut assembly has to be removed? If so do I have to compress the spring first?
View 7 RepliesLS / MKZ :: 2001 Lincoln - Rear Upper Control Arm Removal
I'm in the process of changing the wheel bearing and took the brakes, disconnected the sway bar, and other large bolt but can't get the upper control arm disconnected because once the nut gets to a certain point, the ball joint starts spinning with it. Tried holding the bolt at the bottom with vice grips and it still turns. I'm thinking I might have to take off the whole A arm if I can't get this nut off.
View 1 RepliesCamry :: 2008 SE With JBL - Front Upper Speaker Removal?
I have a 2008 Camry SE with JBL. I was wondering how do you remove the front upper speakers that are in the dash. I looked around but everyone show the front door removal not the upper speakers.
View 4 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F250 - Driver Side Rear Sway Bar Link Upper Bolt Removal
I have a 2004 F250 Lariat Crew Cab FX4 6-3/4' bed.
What is the procedure to remove the Driver's side Rear Sway Bar Link upper bolt? - the link attaches to the frame. The nut is on the inside of the frame with about 1/3" to 2/3" clearance between the frame and the fuel tank. Of course, the frame's "C" shape faces towards the inside.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Upper And Lower Ball Joints?
I have a 2007 f-150 4X4 with bad upper ball joints, should I replace the lowers also or just the uppers and how do I check lowers?
View 3 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2007 5.5L - Upper Engine Rebuild After Oil Change
We operate a garage, did an oil change on a 2007 F150 with a 5.4L, with 70,000 km. A few days later, began to make noise. Owner took it to the dealer, the dealer told him it needed an upper engine rebuild. A technician at the dealership said the oil filter came apart and caused the engine damage. Scored cam guides and cam shaft damage. Installed OEM recommended, Pennzoil 5w20, and Pennzoil PZ42, Purolator manufactured. No loss of oil, proper quantity of oil installed. Sent the filter to Purolator for testing, came back 100% within specifications, no missing parts, gaskets present intact. What would cause this damage?
View 11 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Loss Of Upper End Power - How To Check Throttle Body
Ok,..I've got a late model '04 5.4 150, (some parts matched an '05). About 4 mos ago I noticed a loss of upper end power, no cel, but the temp gauge only went up halfway and stayed there. eventually got a code saying temp sending unit (under manifold) was bad. I replaced the sending unit, gauge started working, no cel, but still some power loss.
After a while, cel again says rt bank faulty knock sensor, pull manifold, replace both, plus changed all 4 oxygen sensors. Last few months no cel, but still some loss of power, local trusted mechanic, thinks it could be a clogged cat / cats,..I was pretty sure it wasn't, sure enough, no back pressure. I'm at a loss, I replaced the plugs at 95,000 has 125,000 now, idles and starts great.
It feels like an old distributor car with a sticky shaft that doesn't want to advance, once in a while it feels almost normal, now a lot of people might not even feel it, it will still go 90, but won't lay rubber for 30ft like it used to, might chirp but definitely something not right,..is there any way to confirm throttle body opening all the way? I don't think it would be wise to run it with air box off and by pass mass air sensor right?
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2001 4.0 SOHV Upper Intake Manifold Removal
It doesn't look anything like the illistration in my Haynes book.Where are the bolts located and how many?
View 14 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Steering Wheel - Tight Upper Or Lower Ball Joints
On my 2004 s-cab the steering is starting go 'notchy'?
I have considered, tight upper or lower ball joints, pump, rack or even a sticking rear diff, but not carried out any checks yet except oil level
Passat (B5) :: Upper Radiator Hose Removal?
So i cant figure out how to remove the radiator side of the upper radiator hose. I pulled out the pin but i cant remove the hose.
Do I just pull it straight out? Or do I twist and pull? I dont want to break the connection.
Prius (2004-09) :: 2008 - No Warm Air Coming From Upper Vents On Dash
My ex-wife has a 2008 Prius. When trying to get heat, either using Auto A/C or manual, the display panel shows that only the floor vents are open. However, forced air is flowing from the upper vents on the dash. The air from these vents is not warmed. It seems to be unheated outside air. It's unclear whether this is a new problem, since the owner doesn't know if this behavior has been there since she bought the car. She does report that the car has always taken a long time to get comfortable in winter.
View 7 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Keep Getting Error Code P0446 - Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control
I got a Ford f150 and getting the error code P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control. My truck has burnt up 3 of these things already in the last 8 months. Why my truck keeps killing them?
View 2 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 4.6L - Removal Of Oil Pan?
2005 f150 4.6l up on jack stands right now with the oil drained and a few bolts out of the oil pan. It looks like I have to take the cross section out to get this to even move but I don't know if that's going to be enough. I'm sort of running trial by error here but hoping I don't do something I cant put back together. I'm assuming ill be okay to take the cross section out but I don't know if I need to move the differential to get it out. My oil pan gasket is leaking and I'm trying to replace it.
View 4 RepliesFord Aerostar :: Bushings And Upper Control Arm Replacement
We've got a '96 aerostar (4x4). The bushing and upper control arm seem to need replacement but the parts seem to be obsolete. Any source for these (other than salvage yards)?
View 14 RepliesFord Aerostar :: Upper Control Arm Bushing Replacement
Any hints on a easy way to change these.
After I have the wheel off do I need to disconnect the upper ball joint to remove these. It looks like I can just remove the two nuts on each side and use a jack under the rotor to support the weight. It looks like it might shift back and forth enough to get them out/in.
Will this work?
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Headlight Assembly Removal?
Is it hard to remove the headlamp assembly. I am only asking because i am considering purchasing smoked/blackened headlamps and tailights on ebay.
View 14 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Removal Of Projector HID Lamp?
Whats the process on removing the projector hid lightbulb that has burned out its a 6000K?
View 6 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Doing Brake Job - Rotor Removal Necessary?
I plan to attempt my first ever brake job on a 2008 Ford F-150 XL 4.2L V6 RWD with 50K miles on it.
I've done a lot of reading in order to prepare and from what I can gather it seems best to take off the brake rotor altogether in order to clean off the rust build-up and apply some nickel anti-seize compound in between the hub and rotor. I live in a cold climate and we use quite a bit of salt on the roads here so I thought while I'm changing the pads I might as well clean the rotors of all rust build up while I got the calipers off.
My only problem is that I only have a 265 foot pound torque wrench and the spindle nut that holds my rotors on calls for 295 ft. pounds torque. Also the Haynes manual says that you should buy a new spindle nut ($20 part) and cotter pin. I have neither.
So...I am wondering whether I should forestall taking off the rotor and just do some surface clean-up of the rotor with some Evapo-Rust Rust Remover then blast it with some Brakleen and call it good. I plan to use some caliper grease of course and a dab of nickel anti-seize compound on the backsides of the new brake pads. Is this bad practice, will I regret this in 50K more miles when the wheel hub is completely married to a rotor? How likely is that do you think?