Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Intermittent Rattle / Knock / Running Rough And Dying At Stops
I am working on a customers 08 F-350 5.4l has 135k on it. came in with a severe rattle/knock, running poorly, and dying at stops. ECM gave up 8 codes relating to the timing... Found the phaser replacement steps here on FTE and followed them and replaced the VCT solenoids since i was in there. Customer reported that he replaced the cam sensors already. Ran great for a day, and the next day when I pulled into the shop it gave me a rattle. Not as violent as before but noticeable. I special ordered the wedge and followed the replacement to a 'T'. I have no performance issues and no codes.
View 5 RepliesSaab - 9-3 :: Idling / Driving Real Rough And Dying At Stops
Car was idling and driving real rough and dying at stops. Turns out that the transmission mount was torn so I replaced it and verified that the other two motor mounts were good. Car was still running rough but on a drive with some jerky shifts (automatic) after about 20 miles all is well and I'm running as smooth as a baby's bottom with great turbo action. Cars just don't fix themselves. What could have been wrong? By the way there were no codes from the Tech ll. Using a pc of tubing I can't hear any vacuum leaks nor when spraying brake cleaner on the hose ends does the engine race.
View 3 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Running Rough When Warm
History: Truck was running okay but acted like a coil was bad when under load. I changed out all the plugs with Motorcraft and put on Summit racing COPs.
After the plug and cop change the truck will run rough after it is warmed up. I changed back to the old COPs and it runs the same.
First I replaced the MAF sensor after finding many posts on here about it. No change.
I read a bunch of posts on oil causing the problem so I used 10-30w and nothing changed.
I searched for a vacuum leak with carb cleaner and couldn't find one. I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the throttle body.
When I did the plug change I disconnected the PCM without disconnecting the battery. Would this cause this type of problem?
I think this is about all the stuff I found to try in the threads that came up through searching.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 5.4L Idling Very Rough And Had A Terrible Miss Around 1200 RPM
I have a 2005 5.4 F-150. First off it came to me on a rollback because the owner tried to replace his plugs after he noticed it missing and of course broke one off. So after I extracted the plug from #8 cylinder and installed a new plug I cranked the truck and it was idling very rough and had a terrible miss around 1200rpm. I pulled the codes and got several misfire codes and ignition coil faults on #5,6 and 7 cylinder. Popped in 3 known good coils in these 3 cylinders with no difference.
On Mode 6 on my diagnostic software you could watch the misfire count steadily increase on #7 and every now and then there would be a single misfire on #5 and 6. It also had several codes for O2 sensors biased, stuck rich on that bank. Well since it had a brand new plug and coil, I popped an injector in #7 and havent had a single misfire on it since and it also started idling alot better and all the O2 codes went away. The problem I am having now is #5, 6 and now 8 will randomly misfire, sometimes build up a steady count on one of them, sometimes just skip around between them.
The truck has brand new plugs in all 8 and new coils on this bank also. The truck has 115,000 on it and does have some cam phaser noise on the bank causing the problem, but its not too terribly bad, I have heard alot worse. My problem is something on that bank only as the passenger side bank is fine. I am wanting to say cam phaser now since this is the side with the noise. I have changed them before but have just experienced the noise, never one running like this because of it. Possibly jumped time a little?
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Rough Idle And Dying / System Adaptive Fuel Too Lean Bank 1
2004 f150 fx4 w/ 5.4 .I have a code that read " system adaptive fuel to lean bank 1 " and the same for bank two. So, I got on here and did some research. Cleaned the throttle body, maf sensor, air filter, looked for vacuum leaks, changed the fuel filter and it still is running very poor at idle and it seems to be getting progressively worse...
View 2 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: Rough Idling After Warm Start - Car Vibrate And Engine Struggling
I changed timing belt and water pump DIY back in Oct 2015. Ever since then, I get rough idling (car kind of vibrate and engine kind of struggling) after warm start (no problem with cold starts, it did stall once after the warm start).
Two days ago, I got a P0000 code, I thought it was due to low oil (happened before, I topped off oil 2500 miles ago), so I changed oil and filter. No problem yesterday, but today on my way to work. I got the p0000 code again.
Toyota - Corolla :: 1993 - Dying And Rough Idling
I have a 93 Corolla LE and in October I was driving in heavy rain and the car died. Since then I have replaced the spark plug wires, plug seals, distributor cap, battery, and rotor. The car would get me from A to B, but I would always have to put it in neutral at a stop to keep it from dying. This past week we've had a lot of rain and it's been really cold so my car has been dying when I slow down or stop. I gave it plently of time to heat up thinking it would work, but it died three times on the way to work.
View 15 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Knocking When Idling Very Rough
My truck is idling terribly and knocks while doing so, little info is
The truck has 170k miles, I just bought it about two months ago and it was running perfect, drove it to the beach two or three times (4 hour drive) no problems whatsoever. Two weeks ago I noticed it start rocking a bit at idle ONLY when warm, check engine light came on so I ran the code and it said the Cam shaft positioning sensor was bad so I replaced both of those, then the next code I got was for the vct solenoids, replaced both of those and the problem is still persisting. It is odd to me in the fact that when its cold, it runs flawlessly, no problem accelerating/idling/maintaining speed/smoke nothing at all.
As soon as it gets warm it will still do everything flawlessly EXCEPT idle. the idle rpm is around 300-400 and it rocks and knocks terribly.. If i am stopped and I apply some throttle in park or nuetral, just enough to get the rpm up to around 800-900, its perfectly fine. no more rocking no more knocking but as soon as i let my foot off the gas it goes right back to feeling like its going to fly out from underneath the hood.
So my question is why is this? What on earth is going on here? and how do I fix it? And why is there not a manual idle control. Ford place said there was likely damage to the head and recommended a full engine replacement.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Rough Idle When Engine Is Warm
I purchased an '08 F150 about 6 months ago, and have a problem that two mechanics haven't been able to solve. The truck has a 5.4L engine. Unfortunately, I bought from an auction and the 30 day warranty expired before I realized the problem.
After a longer drive (30 minutes to work) the engine is warm, and I always back into my parking spot or driveway. In low gear, it begins to idle very rough and the engine shakes. If I leave it long enough, it will stall. Usually I pop it into neutral, give it some gas, and its fine. I just bought a camper trailer, so I'll need to use the lower gear when backing up.
So far, the engine has been flushed twice, the solenoid replaced and phaser replaced. The second mechanic has recommended I contact a dealer, but haven't had luck with them with my previous Explorer. What it could be? I will be getting the diagnostic paperwork this week.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2007 - Idling Rough And Stumbling A Bit
I have a 2007 F-150. Here is the story....
Last summer the truck was idling rough and seemed to be stumbling a bit. Took it to the dealership and had it diagnosed. Had a mis-fire code on cylinders 1 and 3. I was told to do the spark plugs and clean the MAF. After replacing all plugs and cleaning the MAF the truck seemed to run better but it didnt last long before it started doing the same thing. My Edge Evolution started showing misfire codes in cylinders 1 and 3 again and the truck is stumbling like crazy. Here is what i have done:
1. Swapped the plugs from cyl. 1 and 3 with cyl. 5 and 7 and the problem followed.
2. I replaced the bad plugs with new ones and i no longer get a code for those cylinders but the truck is still acting the same.
Now I am getting two codes saying the system is running rich on bank 1 and 2 and a misfire code in cylinder 4. I cleaned the K&N filter and replaced the MAF but it is still the same. The truck stumbles horribly under a load and has NO power.
History:
2007 F-150 5.4L Lariat
75K miles +/-
K&N Filter
Edge Evolution (has been kept in stock mode)
new spark plugs last summer
new MAF (this week)
New Fuel filter (two summers ago)
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 5.4L Intermittent Rough Idle When Warm
I have a 05 fx4 5.4L with 85k on it. It has started idling rough when i come to a stop light or slow down to 10 mph or less. It only does it once in a while. There doesn't seem to be any real pattern. The motor shakes until you rev it up and then it goes away.
I have cleaned the maf, put in new air filter and fuel filter. And put in a new battery. Would a coil act like that? Maybe plugs? Or a vacuum leak?
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Rough Idle Start / Bad Compression Until Warm Up
I have 2004 f150 small v8 (4.7?) Has about 92000 miles.
When warm truck runs excellently. At first start up the idle is very rough and raw gas smell for about 4 minutes then truck runs like new. Will start and restart great until it cools down overnite.
My actron says missfire cyl 3. Did not fix it. Dealer says that on start up compression is zero in cylinder three but is 100% when it warms up. Suggested I run seafoam through it. He thinks it has a vacuum leak or carbon at start.
In my limited knowledge I am thinking:
sticky lifter
bent push rods
warp valve
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2007 - Intermittent Rough Idle At Low Speeds When Engine Is Warm
Still showing the same codes (per repairman) and still having the intermittent rough idle at low speeds when the engine is warm. It has been so intermittent that I could almost live with it.
So repair guys first replaces the VCT's and runs fine until warmed up and the problem reoccurs with the same codes. He replaces both cam phasers and tensioners today and still same problem and same codes which point to the VCT and cam phasers.
Truck has 80k, city driven, oil changed every 3k or so. Burns ethanol and still runs great at speeds over 10 mph even when this problem appears.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - AC Randomly Stops Working
About a month ago, I was driving 50 mph in my 06 screw on a dirt road. There was an old wood bridge that was not as flush as I was expecting. Jolted the truck pretty good but it kept on trucking. However, a few seconds after the jolt, the power to the AC cut out. All I had to do was turn the AC to "off" then back on and it'd start working fine. Over the last month, the power randomly cuts out, but will go back on after I switch to "off" then back on. It's happened maybe 3 or 4 times since The Big Jolt.
View 6 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2007 XLT Won't Start - Random Rough Idling Spell Or Stall Going Down The Road
I have a 2007 F150 XLT, Supercab 6.5' bed, 4x4 5.4 Automatic with 67000 miles on it. Its not a Flex Fuel
Over the past couple of weeks it would get go through random rough idling spell or stall going down the road. If it was sitting it would idle clear down to 200 RPM's and just sound like an old 'chitty-chitty-bang-bang' car, not a modern marvel of Ford engineering!
I noticed it particularly does it this on an incline. Initially I fixed it by just coasting to where it was flat. I normally keep it above half a tank so i dont think its a fuel pump not getting fed. So I replaced the fuel filter yesterday hoping it was full or clogged, no changed.
This morning it would start at all, I removed the negative terminal on the battery, rolled to the level, tried it 30 times. Nothing. I checked all of my connectors under the hood and the 2 below the cab under the plastic cover. Everything was connected. I disconnected the fuel pressure sensor and it fired right up and runs smoother than since I've owned it.
It hasn't had any CEL lights, until I disconnected that sensor. Should I drop the tank and clean it? Is there any special gasket kits or connectors I should be aware of? Should I just replace that sensor? Is it connected with a chain of sensors I should check first?
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Idle Really Rough When Put In Reverse After Oil Change
Okay I have a 2006 F-150 5.4 60,000 miles , Never once had any problems. I have always done the oil changes myself using 5w-20 mobile super and an S2 STP oil filter. Today, I did a normal oil change and once i filled it up I checked the oil it one last time and I topped it off just right according to the dipstick. And I also checked it after letting engine idle for 5 minutes. I changed the fuel filter also ( first time doing) but no leaks. I drove about two miles down the road, turned around and when I put it into reverse it idled really rough. It almost sounded like a thrown rod.
The rpm's dropped to about 500. I put it into drive and gave it a little gas and then all was fine. Engine ran perfect. I reversed it at least 5 more times and it did it every time but always recovering when given a little gas. I also noticed that there is some oil splashed on the undercarriage like it was leaking going down the road. I checked the filter gasket and it was fine and intact. It idles great in park, drives great. Just reverse it dives down and vibrates like crazy.? After getting home I noticed that the oil level on the dipstick is a little less than a 1/4 inch over the correct level.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Engine Will Run Really Rough And Knock Loudly In Reverse Or Park
I have a 2008 fx4 with 75000 km it runs great but when I go on a long ride up hills or tow my trailer it acts up only when I get to my destination. the engine will run really rough and knock loudly seems only when I use reverse or sometimes park (and oil pressure in dash looks good),and if I shut ignition off and restart it no problems till I make engine work hard again.
View 14 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Rough Idle At Low Speeds Primarily In Reverse / Code P0022
2005 f150 Lariat 4x4 5.4
Had phasers, tensioners, chains, guides, and sensors replaced. After driving the truck, it started to get a rough idle at low speeds, primarily in reverse. Changed both vct solenoids with no results. Started to get p0022 code. Changed the oil with motorcraft filter and 5w-20 twice after the work had been done, thinking it might need it. Vct's were a little varnished, but not too bad.
After a couple days of light driving, got a misfire on #3. Replaced the coil and it hasn't been back since. I am stumped at this point.
The computer show the timing to be at +13 when sitting stopped and in drive. It fluctuates a little, but not much. When the truck goes into a rough idle. The rpm's fluctuate wildly. It seems to be happening more frequently, the more I drive it.
Ford A/C :: 2006 F150 - Warm Air Blowing While Idling?
Having problems with the A/C on F150 2006 or newer. It blows warm air while idling. I have taken mine to 2 different dealerships had Ford engineers down and no one can seem to find the problem. I love Ford vehicles but I can't handle this in the these hot summers.
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