Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Total Intermittent Electrical Flicker / Failure
New ghost in the machine.
Pulled out of the driveway two days ago to go trailer a wrecked car home. Got about half a mile up the road, and my electrical system started flickering. Engine died, dash went nuts, everything is clicking on and off real fast. This went on for a minute or two, then stopped. After a little internal debate, I decided to continue on.
Ran fine for another mile or so. Hitched up the trailer and checked the lights, everything A-OK. Started rolling down the lane and the truck went dark. Engine shut down, no sign of electrical power anywhere. It was as if my batteries had been suddenly abducted by aliens. Truck stayed dark for about 5 - 10 seconds, then like a switch was thrown all the electric came back on. Dropped the trailer and drove back to the house without incident. Not towing a car like this.
Checked the battery connections. Looked really good and tight. Pulled and cleaned them anyways.
Pulled the fuse box out from under the dash and looked for water damage. Absolutely no sign of moisture or corrosion anywhere on the box or anything else under the dash.
Started the truck and turned every electrical item I could think of on. Truck sat and idled for 15 minutes without a hiccup. Voltage at the batteries was normal. I wiggled wires everywhere with no effect.
Decided to quit for the night. Got into the truck to move it to it's parking spot and POOF, all went dark again. Engine died, heater blower, radio, headlights, interior lights, all dark. About 5 seconds later, everything came back online.
No CEL. No other symptoms. She was either running perfectly or had no juice at all.
I drove it last night to the mechanic I use. 7 miles, bumps, potholes, stop and go traffic, no issues.
Just spoke with the mechanic. They can't reproduce the problem. I told him I can't reproduce it on demand either. I asked that they put it up on the rack and check all the ground points.
Chevrolet - Tahoe :: 2007 - Total Electrical Power Failure
I have a 2007 Chev Tahoe. Description of Problem: Past month engine light came on. Then some days for a short time will go off. When light is on the auto start wont work. Battery has been drained so today I changed the battery and have a total electrical power system failure. Zero power to anything. Last month I put a scanner on it but i didnt save the code. It was related to a "throttle body module" i think. Have been reading about the BCM also so im at a complete loss...
View 4 RepliesHonda - Cr-v :: 1999 - Total Clutch Failure / Does Not Engage Fully When Let Out
Our 1999 CRV has had the clutch fail several times in the past year. The pattern is that you notice it slipping a bit now and then, but trending worse over a few days. Then it gets dramatically worse in a period of minutes: it does not engage fully when let out. The pedal feels fine, the engine is running fine, but power is not transmitted to the wheels.
On two occasions, we were able to take it directly and the mechanic resolved the problem with some adjustment to the master cylinder, or something like that (my wife spoke to the mechanic and it was many months ago).
Last winter, I was driving as the problem was recurring and I found myself nursing the slipping clutch up a steep one mile grade. At the top of the hill, totally flat ground, the problem continued to get worse for the next half mile, till there was no power at all! Engine fine, pedal action fine, but effectively the clutch was permanently disengaged. I left the car there over night. The next morning, before calling for a tow, I tried again and the clutch was working! I could tell it was still slipping a bit, but it was no problem to drive to the mechanic, who fixed the problem again for just a hundred bucks or so.
Yesterday, my wife again found that the clutch failed completely over the course of a few miles driving. She had to be towed. Today the mechanic says they can't reproduce the problem!
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Instrument Cluster / New Bulbs But Dim Around 55 MPH?
I just replaced all 5 of my instrument cluster bulbs in my 1998 f150. Everything looks nice and bright now that everything is replaced but around the top of the speedometer the light is dim. Is this normal for this instrument cluster or could there be a bad bulb or a light blockage? It's frustrating to go through effort to get to the cluster and find out after it's put back together that there's a bad bulb or something.
View 2 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Brake Light In Instrument Cluster Won't Come On
The brake light in my instrument cluster on my 1997 F150 won't come on. I have put in 2 new bulbs.
View 7 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Instrument Panel Lights Hard To Change
My instrument panel lights are out are they hard to change ? the truck is a 1997 f-150 4x4 /4.6 liter...
View 14 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Changed Instrument Cluster Now Cranks But No Start
So I noticed this is a common problem in several scenarios. Some are electric failures and key failures and computer failures....And other times they happen when you switch the cluster.
I had a blacked out cluster with a couple broken gauges and after spending an hour swapping the cluster I get a crank but no start. I tried switching the 301 and 304 fuses (fuel pump and PCM) as that was mentioned somewhere online but it did nothing. Any quick fixes or do I need to tow it to a dealership?
2001 Supercrew with 4.6L and 4x4
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Instrument Cluster Gauge Lights Not Showing And Alternator Is Not Consistently Charging
I have a 1997 Ford Expedition, 5.4. My research indicates that fuses 2. 19. 29 are associated with the instrument cluster (IC), could you identify their specific function in relation to the IC? My IC gauge lights are not showing and my alternator is not consistently charging. The blinkers, battery, oil, brake, and ABS indicator lights are showing in start. Regarding the alternator, my research indicates that a failing alt light on the IC may cause the no charging condition? As a note, I have a brand new battery, brand new alternator, brand new 3 pin wiring harness. Also, when the alternator is not charging and I connect the a jumper from the exciter wire directly to the pos battery terminal, the charging starts.
View 9 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Failure To Start With All Lights Appearing On The Dash - Oil Leaking Also
Just bought this as a daily driver. This being my first truck and USED with over 100k in miles, I got it at a deal, but I am worried it might be a lemon. The engine is giving off 8 codes (listed below) that I pulled off my obd2 wifi scanner. This morning was a failure to start with all lights appearing on the dash. There is allot of accumulation around the terminals on the battery as well but the scanner read nothing about a faulty charge. I am trying to have my truck working soon so I can stop asking for rides ... broke down (5.4L triton straight piped )...
ERROR CODES:
P1131
P0171
P0174
P0316
P1151
P0401
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Cruise Control Intermittent Failure - Larger Rims And Tires
I have a Ford F150, 2003. I replaced the switch above the master brake cylinder just a few months ago soon after I bought the truck. I put 17" rims and new tires on my truck and now my cruise control works intermittently. It worked fine before then.
Can there be a connection between the intermittent failure of the Cruise and the larger rims and tires? I know my speedometer is off by about 4 MPH at 55 but I expected that.
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Park Lights And Instrument Cluster Lights Out
99 F-150 V-6, 125,000 miles: I repaired the odometer connection on the cluster mother board! It now works great but now have no running (parking) lights and no backlights for the instrument cluster. I think (!) they were working before I pulled the cluster to fix the odometer--not sure. Fuzes are all good--I metered each with ohmmeter for continuity, and also have 12V to the right fuzes with headlite switch in Park and Head. I replaced the headlight switch with a new one but still the same problem. Have I messed up something in the cluster board or connections by soldering there? I don't know what role the cluster plays in feeding the running lites or the cluster backup lites. Stumped. What am I missing?
View 3 RepliesSubaru - Outback :: Instrument Cluster Failure - Car Value Impact?
Our 3 day old outback had a failure in the instrument cluster. Dealer will fix it of course, but now it looks like there may be a sticker that has to be added to the car alerting a odometer repair was done. Also not certain if the mileage will be back at 0 or at the <300 we had on there.
What is the hit on value because of this type of repair and the sticker required? I for one am having a hard time coming to grips that there wouldn't be a very negative impact to the value of the car.
Dodge - Stratus :: 1997 - Auto Trans Not Shifting / Total Limp Mode
I read another blog on here about stratus not shifting and decided to ask someone about my limp mode problem. A few months ago I was driving uphill when it jerked before it got into limp mode. I thought maybe the hot weather caused it(it was 95 deg). I let it sit overnight. and the next day car was fine. for about 3-4 months. Now it got into limp mode only after it goes through all the gears once only. When i come to a stop it will go into limp again. Got a 0700 and 0760 codes. My speedometer works. tach works. Basically everything works as it should.
I decided to change the ATF and filter, both speed sensors and i get the same old codes after a drive around the block. I then decided to remove the neg terminal overnight. Next day I would have no signal at the data link port. When i removed the key from the ignition my dash lights for the mileage will stay on for another 3-4 seconds before disappearing. I checked the ground wires to the PCM and TCM which are good. Fuses and relays are also good. I even swapped some of them. Still no change. 1997 stratus 2.4 auto...
Prius (2010-12) :: Speedometer And Fuel Level Indicator Blank - Instrument Cluster Failure
While traveling speedometer and fuel level indicated blanked out. No other problems--I could see our speed by using GPS.
Toyota service said a circuit board was burned out. I searched and found numerous such problems with 04 up to 09 and eventually (in 2012) Toyota initiated an extended warranty to cover replacement of the board.
Hybrid-repair - Honda - Civichybrid :: 2003 - Total Power Out But Then Jumps And Runs Fine Immediately?
I drive an 03 Civic Hybrid. Twice, a week apart, while driving about 50, the speedometer goes to zero, then the power steering goes out and I lose power and momentum. The dash indicator lights go on like a christmas tree, engine still running, but car sluggish. I shut it off, and then get no power at all, not even hazard lights, and car won't start. With jumper cables, it starts right up and runs like nothing happened. IMA and check engine lights are both on, and have been since I bought it three years ago. In those years, my gas mileage has been consistent (42mpg) and no other funny business. Dealer won't work on it except to replace IMA and O2 sensors, which it has always coded for, and would cost the value of the car. What to do?
View 12 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1997 - Instrument Panel Light Bulb Replacement
I just finished replacing the instrument panel light bulbs on my 1997 Ranger XL, 2.3L, 2WD pickup. I wanted to share how I did this. First of all, if you never have done this before, go slow and take your time removing the dash panels as they are plastic molding and break easily. Allow yourself about an hour to complete the task. You will need smaller sized hand sockets to remove the screws. The very first thing you should do is remove the negative battery cable from the battery. This way you will not risk shorting out anything electrical as well as possibly triggering the airbag in the steering wheel column.
The key piece in starting the process is to remove the radio first and then central console panel that houses the radio. It pops out very easily by gently prying it out in the four corners. Once you get that piece out remove the screws the support the lower knee panel. In order to get that piece off you will have to remove the two screws the hold the hood release lever in place. Get under the dashboard and look up as you lay looking upward near the brake pedal. Pull the hood release lever and you will see the two gold screws. Remove them. This will free up the panel on the under side. The top side of the panel will pop out if you pry it gently on the top two corners.
Next, you will see a metal panel underneath the knee panel. Remove this metal panel as well. Now you will be able to remove the instrument cluster panel piece. There are some visible screws holding this in place, remove them and gently pry the cluster panel out. Once the cluster panel cover is out you will have to actually remove the gauge cluster itself by removing the the four screw bolts that secure it in place. After the screws are out, gently work it out of the dash slowly as you will need to disconnect three electric plug harnesses in the back.
After it is unplugged and out, on the backside of the instrument cluster you will see some round, black colored thumb screw bulb housings that house the light bulb. Just twist them and turn making sure to go in the right direction. Feel it out for the direction, I cannot remember which way it turns. The bulb housings are labeled "ILL" on the circuit overlay. I recommend you replace all the bulbs as you might not want to have to do this again in the near future. Once all the bulbs are tightly seated and installed just reverse the above process for installation. This is a fairly easy job and like I said it takes about an hour. Make sure you test the lights after finishing.
Ford A/C :: 1997 E350 - Signs Of Impending Compressor Failure
I'm in the process of replacing the engine in my 97 E-350 Chateau 6.8 v10. The a/c system was in need of attention before my engine exploded at 143,000 miles. The a/c system at that time was showing signs of impending compressor failure. Many parts of my a/c system were removed to facilitate engine swap so it is completely evacuated. I'm replacing the compressor, accumulator, both expansion valves and flushing the rest of the components outside of the vehicle.
I have purchased all the replacement part but have questions on the proper sequences of events replacing the PAG 46 into the system. My a/c system calls for 13oz of oil and 64oz coolant and I did not measure any oil that was lost during removal. I have access to a vacuum pump and a/c gauges. I have been searching the internet yet haven't found a site that deals specifically with my circumstances. I'm eager to learn.
Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1997 - High Beam Failure / Fuse 16 Blown
I have a 1997 Expedition that every time I replace the #16 fuse it blows when the high beams are on. It seems that it happens only when in drive and accelerating from a stopped position. I wonder if it could be either the clock spring or the multi-switch cause the short. I checked the wires on the headlights and they are fine. Again the high beams work when the truck is sitting still and the fuse is new.
View 4 RepliesFord Wiring/Electrical :: 2003 - Instrument Panel Does Not Work?
03 F250 Instrument panel does not work. Have checked all fuses with a meter. Have already fixed broken wires from the OD button on shifter handle. and also the alternator is not charging. I need wiring diagram that shows the wires coming out the back of the fuse box so I can see if the fuse holder is burned out......
View 8 Replies